Advice Needed on First Peacoat Purchase

[tonyrhodes]

Hello all,

I got into the market for a vintage peacoat which brought me to this site and thus to my first post on here. So hello to everyone! For the past year or so I have been looking into getting a genuine issue peacoat at first I thought I wanted a current issue sterlingwear one but after reading a few threads on this site about the advantages of vintage peacoats over the current ones, I decided to go with vintage. I took my measurements and i'm roughly a 40 inch chest, i'm about 5'11 and 175 lbs. I have been scouring ebay (and vintagetrends though they seem somewhat expensive) looking for any genuine navy issue peacoats and I came across a fairly nice one with some minor wear from the 1960s, through looking at the peacoat dating thread, I found out it was from about 1961. I also read about how to size for the peacoats. Now I had heard you should buy a size smaller so the coat fits snug, the measurements for the coat I got my eye on are a 38R, pit2pit=22 inches, arm length 35 1/2 inches, overall height is 34 inches. Would this be too tight or should I keep my eye open until i find a 40R coat? The only thing I really have as a reference is a suit jacket (I think its a 38r but i'm not sure I lost the size tag) which fits ok but it is a little snug around the armpits (pit2pit is 21 inches) and sleeve length is 34. Also, is it difficult to find a peacoat in very good condition for under 100 on eBay? It seems all the ones without much wear are fairly expensive right now. Any advice is really appreciated! Thanks in advance!

 

[FAFOO68]

Hello,
I have 2 Peacoat in size 42 (a Kersey 1966 and a civilian Sterlingwear "Authentic") and i could say the measurements of your 38 R Peacoat seems big.
The pit to pit of my 2 Peacoats are 22 and their size tag are 42 R.
So you should ask the seller to measure again, lay flat, buttons closed, the underarms of the Peacoat.
For further informations, please read Peacoat's thread on the forum "Peacoat dating".
Cheers,
F68

 

[tonyrhodes]

Thank you for responding, I had thought the same thing when I was comparing that coat to others listed on eBay. The picture of the tag states its a 38 so it may be the seller measured wrong. I will be sure to ask the seller to measure again. Do you think if the 38 measurements were correct a 40 chest could fit into a 38 comfortably? I had read peacoat's thread it has been very helpful! Is there anything I should watch out for when asking the seller about the condition? Such as should I steer clear of moth holes or wear spots on the shell?

 

[FAFOO68]

Yes, be sure there no moth holes (or some others in the sleeve or the inside pocket), no sleeve shorthened, no missing buttons.
The best you can do is to ask a pic of the inside label, it will help you to date the peacoat (and maybe the sizing if it's after 1967).
For the sizing, i'am 40 chest and the 42 is fine with a suit jacket or a sweater.
I tried once a 1968 Pembroke in 40 and it's was good too but for a tight fitting.
The size 40 in Peacoat is 21.5 pit to pit in général (22,5 for 42).
Cheers,
F68

 

[tonyrhodes]

Thank you for the information, the label tag puts the jacket at 1961 according to peacoat's thread on peacoat dating. Would it be ok to go a size down from what I normally am? I am a 40 chest and the coat I want is a size 38, would going a size down be too small or is it a good thing to go a size down so the peacoat fits snug?

 

[FAFOO68]

In this case, the best you can do is ask the seller the complete measurements (pit to pit, shoulders across back, back lenght and sleeve lenght) then you compare with your own numbers.
Normally, with a 40 chest and a 38 Peacoat, you'll just have room to wear it with a shirt...
Cheers,
F68

 

[trapp]

Depending on your location, it's not a bad idea to plan on getting two coats, one in a 38 to wear with minimal layering and one in a 40 to layer under. I have a 1968 Pembroke size 40R and a 1963 in 38R and the difference in fit is quite substantial. I love and wear them both.

At some point @peacoat with likely weigh in; he's the resident expert.

 

[tonyrhodes]

Thanks again for the responses, I was thinking that would be a good idea too, im in PA so its pretty cold and snowy outside. I was looking to get a coat to wear a sweater under right now and maybe towards the end of january pick up a 38 to wear during warmer months. I'm just looking at ebay right now and there are many 38s available but only a very few 40s. The 38s that are available are not in too bad condition with some minor fraying or wear spots on the sleeves but I have yet to find a good 40 to purchase. I do like the snug fit the 38 would give as I don't like coats that I look like im swimming in.

 

[Peacoat]

Tony: You have been getting some pretty good information about the p2p sizes; thank you Fafoo68. The only minor correction I would make is the years after 1965 are all easy to date. The 1966 tag is one of a kind (as far as I have been able to tell) and the subsequent years, 1967 and beyond, all have the date embedded in the tag.

The exact p2p from the seller is the most important measurement you can get. It has to be accurate. Trying to use the p2p from a non peacoat garment is counter productive. My method only works on pea coats. There is another formula for leather jackets, but that's not what we are about right now.

The p2p you received is, as Fafoo said, too big: a mistake was made. Please copy and paste the below instructions and send to the seller. Many don't have a clue of how to measure. Nor do they have a clue about the date of the coat they are selling. It is easy to see the ones who have googled and found my dating guide; they usually get it pretty close.

When I want a pit to pit measurement of the peacoat, I ask the seller to lay the coat face up on a flat surface, such as a bed. Stretch it tightly from side to side and pull the same amount of material evenly from the front and the back. Do not be concerned about any seams--disregard the seams. We want the amount of material stretched in the back to be the same as the amount stretched in the front. Then let the fabric relax and take the measurement. It should be a whole number and a fraction--such as 19.25 inches. Do not round off; we want the entire number. Try to be accurate to 1/8 of an inch. This pit to pit measurement tells us how the coat will fit in the chest, and if the stated chest size on the tag is accurate.

If you have any more questions, please ask. If I'm not available, my Paris research assistant will be glad to help you.

 

[Grayland]

I have a size 40. I believe it is 1968. I'm away from the holidays and can't remember for sure. Very nice shape and I would sell it for $60, shipped USPS Priority. I also have a size 38, 1961 model - also very nice shape. They both have the corduroy pockets. I've recently acquired a Sterlingwear Pea Coat in gray, which I love - but the wool in the old Navy pea coats is superior. The gray pea coat has become my go to pea coat, though. I have a 40-inch chest (5'9, 170 lb.) and the 38 fits perfectly if I only wear a shirt. If I wear a sweater/sweatshirt, I need the size 40. Actually, I would sell you both for $100, shipped USPS Priority. I'll be home on the 1st and can provide measurements & pics.

 

[tonyrhodes]

Thanks so much peacoat and grayland for the additional information, I will be sure to ask the seller regarding the measurements per peacoat's pit2pit instructions. I am a little hesitant as I want a 38 for warmer months but many ebay sellers don't accept returns so if their measurements are off and its too small, ill be out money. Grayland, I would definitely be interested in seeing pictures of the size 40 peacoat you have too. I really do want the corduroy pockets and not the later cotton lined pockets so that is definitely a plus.

 

[FAFOO68]

Hello Peacoat,
Proud to be your second in this mission !
Cheers,
F68

 

[Peacoat]

I have a size 40. I believe it is 1968. I'm away from the holidays and can't remember for sure. Very nice shape and I would sell it for $60, shipped USPS Priority. I also have a size 38, 1961 model - also very nice shape. They both have the corduroy pockets. I've recently acquired a Sterlingwear Pea Coat in gray, which I love - but the wool in the old Navy pea coats is superior. The gray pea coat has become my go to pea coat, though. I have a 40-inch chest (5'9, 170 lb.) and the 38 fits perfectly if I only wear a shirt. If I wear a sweater/sweatshirt, I need the size 40. Actually, I would sell you both for $100, shipped USPS Priority. I'll be home on the 1st and can provide measurements & pics.

Now there is a deal. Exactly what you want, and Grayland is a trusted member of the Lounge. If he wants to make a mistake and basically give his coats away, that is your gain. I recommend that two pea coats are best, especially in areas where the temps get down in the 20s and below. I have found at that temperature range, I need a sweater underneath. So, I have a size 40 (my original peacoat) for warmer temps, and a bunch of size 42s for colder weather wear with a sweater. I have a 42" chest.

To check for damage, I ask the seller to hold the coat at an angle to a strong light source, such as a daytime window, and check each panel individually. It takes less than 2 minutes, but will show all imperfections, even some that aren't even there yet! I am sure Grayland will do this for you if you are interested.

 

[trapp]

Wow, that's an excellent offer and you won't find a better one for two vintage peacoats.

 

[tonyrhodes]

Yes it most definitley is, I really appreciate the offer grayland I'm obviously very interested in them and can't wait to see the pictures. Thank you again to everyone for helping me out with all of this.

 

[Trust But Verify]

@tonyrhodes, I'm a junkie when it comes to vintage peacoats. With vintage peacoats, a good starting point is your true suit size. The reason for this is that the vintage coats were actually tailored very much like a men's suit jacket in terms of shoulder, sleeve and how high the armpits hit. Best of luck finding your perfect peacoat - it sounds like Grayland's offer is a great way to go.