anyone know a good method to fix older plastic sunglasses?

Discussion in 'General Attire & Accoutrements' started by nashopolis, Oct 1, 2011.

  1. nashopolis

    nashopolis New in Town

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Nashville, Tenn
    I dropped my a pair of glasses my Gal's dad gave her - they are older serengeti plastic frames with glass lenses and cracked the rim where the lens is held in place on the bottom edge of the frames.
    oh no!

    I tried some plastic specific repair glue alas no joy. Is there something out there that would bond better to the plastic ....or is it nylon? (they are cracked not broken at the moment)
    or
    does anyone know a better way to "fix" them? It doesn't have to be perfect but I would like to make them functional again if possible.
    I looked up some places online that say they fix vintage frames..... anyone use these sorts of services? What has been your experience?

    thanks for your help!

    Bryce
     
  2. Phineas Lamour

    Phineas Lamour Practically Family

    Messages:
    589
    Location:
    Crossville, Tennessee
    E 6000 glue, maybe. I'm pretty sure it bonds anything to anything. And wont eat the plastic. I have never used it on glasses but it is supposed to be the best glue for sticking things together.
     
  3. LoveMyHats2

    LoveMyHats2 I’ll Lock Up.

    Messages:
    5,196
    Location:
    Michigan
    Not sure what glue you will find to work, however, I can give you a suggestion for when you do. The work area (where you glue/fill in the crack) should have a cover placed on it made of clear scotch tape, you can trim that tape some so that it is just over the repair area until the glue is set. I would leave it alone for more than one full 24 hour time period passes. If you push the tape over the glue when you first glue it, the tape will help the glue "smooth" to some degree, with the surface of the frame of the glasses.

    Next, if you need to sand the surface area to blend the glue in more, you can find some extra fine sandpaper that can actually polish plastic when you use it, this level of fine sandpaper is normally used to clean the outer plastic lense on a car headlight that is plastic. Sometimes you can find it at automotive parts stores that sell auto repair items for painting cars, etc. They would know what you need.

    Avoid using the glue on the frames if you have the lens n the glasses, if possible, remove the lens and leave it out until your repair is totally finished.

    Not sure if the glue that is used to remount a rear view mirror to a windshield would work on your glasses, check, it is does that may be what you could use, it is strong stuff.
     
  4. scottyrocks

    scottyrocks I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    9,003
    Location:
    Isle of Langerhan, NY
    The tricks are a good, clean mating surface and proper pressure. Gorilla Glue is good stuff. Make sure you work into the crack. Take the lens out if you can, as LMH2 suggested. Not seeing the crack it is difficult to know how to 'clamp' it.

    Going by what you have written, I might try a C-clamp, adjusted oh-so-carefully in between just under the nose pieces and the outer edge of the frame. I cannot overemphasize how careful the placement of the clamp has to be.
     
  5. Nash, I don't know the color of the glass frame but Devcon 5 min. Epoxy, a 2 part product dries clear. Other brands I have used turn yellowish. I think your best result will be Devcon 5 minute and you might not even have a witness mark. Why risk misalignment by using bonding agents that take to long to set and some which produce a frothy area above your surface of the repair. That won't happen with Devcon. I see you said just cracked, just noticed that...if it is cracked and the lense isn't staying in due to lose fit, I say finish the break cleanly and make a repair; you will get a better bond and hopefully the glass won't pop out and break on you one day.

    First off, clamping in place might not be a bad idea, but given the set time I think just having an extra set of hands would be a good thing and will do the trick; and eliminte the need to clamp. I'd do a dry run first so my helper knew what I was looking to achieve.

    I would want to use something that set up quickly and gave you a window of opportunity to clean any over applications mess, Devcon is a good choice.

    There is a small window of opportunity to clean off excess that may have smeared onto the frame; done so possibly just using a twirling motion as you twist the swab, rotate to gather excess and not smear it during. But definitly after the setting process; about 25 minutes into the set..you can still remove smears, and I am sure 30-40 50 minutes would allow the same, which I'll explain below.

    I do this over Spar Urethane Varnish that has only cured for a only 10 -20 days, so I can only assume that you can do as well as I, in the process of cleaning as you work using a swab and Denatured Alc. by doing so:

    Have on hand and readily available all products and do a test run to develop a system with this partner. Using Denatured Alc. and one of those swabs unlike Q-tip brand which pull apart, you clean as you go. The swabs I mention do not pull apart and clean well; having several will serve you well. These were used to clean 8 track play heads and V C R heads...Available through your doctor in a 2 pack at next visit or in your local CVS, RITE Aide, Walgreen etc. or Radio Shack. I can even mail you a few.

    The product is a 50/50 mix, but I might tend to decide to add a bit more hardner for fast set. By keeping your unused drying Devcon product on the side to monitor dryness, spread out a thin layer on cardboard......once you can touch it and not have your fingers stick to it, your holders job is just about done; you can use Denatured Alc. on a swab....BUT not saturated; squeeze out the excess, work outward toward the crack to clean up; use a dry swab to dry off alc. just dont spend too much time on the repaired area; but dont be afraid to go over it to blend if you need to. You have about 25 minutes from that set point where excess will come off with minimul effort. Prior to and during the repair remove any excess with a dry swab prior to even have this Devcon set up.

    Have someone hold the frame and carefully open up far enough to get a pin into the area to deposit a mixed batch of Devcon and apply inside the crack; allow the glass frame to return to the correct position, make sure and press the fit. Hold it if you must for the 5 minutes to ensure they stay together and do not separate; dry swab any excess from frame. Holder maintains preassure on the frame to ensure proper bond; and you monitor the sample on the side and proceed as stated above.

    After cleaned up and looking appropriate, let it dry; hold off on popping that lense back in to that frame so you do not blow out the repair. I'd say let sit overnight to ensure you work done is not in vain.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2011

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