Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Marc mndt, Jan 4, 2021.

  1. torfjord

    torfjord One Too Many

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    Yeah, agree completely. Nice confirmation of my anecdotal suspicion that it’s generally not the height difference that causes problems for some people with the length of vintage jackets but rather the rise of the pants.
     
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  2. Seb Lucas

    Seb Lucas I'll Lock Up

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    Top right photo looks long- just as I wrote. But longer rise is partly the reason.
     
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  3. Seb Lucas

    Seb Lucas I'll Lock Up

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    I'm of Dutch background. Quick look on line (Scientific American) says people have grown 4 inches in the past 150 years but not so much in America, mainly throughout Europe and Asia. You learn something every day.


    Makes no difference to my point if people are no taller today. If the average height for an American male was and is still 5ft 9, then the jackets are still longish at 25.5 inches back height. But I will look into this more as there are probably many studies on this subject.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2021
  4. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt Call Me a Cab

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    I found this copy from the 1937 Sears catalogue. For most of these jackets the standard length is 25.5 (apart from the grizzly which is 25' and the one with knits which is 27')

    1937.jpg
     
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  5. Seb Lucas

    Seb Lucas I'll Lock Up

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    Interesting. They don't look short but the illustrations are limited and the pants are... missing. :D
     
  6. red devil

    red devil Call Me a Cab

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    I think most people feel shorter in the netherlands lol
     
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  7. Mich486

    Mich486 One Too Many

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    According to Wikipedia the Dutch are the tallest country in the world. Men’s height averages out at 184cm! Means there are quite a few guys standing at 2m tall. Wow... I’m a miserable 170cm... yeah I’m not Dutch :)
     
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  8. JustinW

    JustinW Practically Family

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    Takes me back to my first biostats class! People have grown taller significantly over the past 120 years (largely due to improvements in agricultural industrialization and nutrition). Japan is usually cited as an example of a quickly growing population in the 19th and 20th centuries.

    The US is a little trickier, because of the various waves of migrants and changing demographics. Americans are currently shrinking, for example, but the latinx population is growing.

    @HoosierDaddy is probably an inch taller than his grandfather, so would need that longer jacket.


    IMO, the CR style is best for tall slim builds. It’s also one of the few styles where heavier leather isn’t always a good choice.
     
  9. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    Keep in mind that back then the measurement was made from the top of the collar down to the hem. So a 25.5 inch back length is probably closer to 23.5 inches. Now we usually measure from the collar seam down- without the collar.
    Pants were higher rise back then too, so your height and clothing preferences really play a big part too.
    I am 5’10 and my sweet spot is 24.5 inches or so. 23.5” is too short, and 25.5 covers the top of my back pockets. To me visually, I like length to hit the seam point of jeans right above the pockets:
    5F3F1D3E-5F45-4B50-9ACA-D2FE6A62D3FD.jpeg
    Some of the European ones were made to fit at waist, so they were even shorter, coming in closer to 21.5 inches. The American ones would look longer in comparison to those.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2021
  10. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt Call Me a Cab

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    Interesting. This puts things in a whole different perspective. How do we know how they used to measure back length back then?
     
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  11. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    I have measured an Original Hercules from this period. Also, I have been following eBay listings for this model for 8 years. They generally come in at 23.5”. I’ve found the long version that actually measured 25.5” only twice (one black/ one brown). @tmitchell59 has one, so we should ask him.
     
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  12. Riu

    Riu One of the Regulars

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    I just saw your reply and I thought I'd ask why heavier leather isn't a good choice for a CR style?
     
  13. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    I have had a few vintage ones, and my preference is for the lighter weight steerhide ones. I don’t like snug heavy jackets. Traditionally, the jackets from the late 40s and 50s were made of heavier hides. Certain modern companies tout their heavy leather, but I don’t see much of it historically except for that period and the 70s / 80s.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2021
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  14. Riu

    Riu One of the Regulars

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    I'm still trying to figure out what my preference is. I'm going to have to try on different makers and skins definitely until I know which ones I like better. I like how cxl feels and looks, never had a steerhide, it's on the list.
     
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  15. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt Call Me a Cab

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  16. JustinW

    JustinW Practically Family

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    Purely a personal preference, but I agree with Mike that a good fitting CR should be very snug ... and that sort of fit looks better in a medium weight. Whereas as half belt looks better in a very thick hide. Cross-zips, for me, straddle the fence - either medium weight fitted or something heavier and roomier that looks like it belongs on a motorcycle.
     
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  17. JustinW

    JustinW Practically Family

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    CXL (steer or horse) has sort of become the gold standard in jacket world over the past decade for good reason. There are so many colors and different weights. Some CXLs also have more pull-up than others - creating a sort of distressed look after a few wears. It's hard to go wrong with Horween!
     
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  18. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    I don’t think CXL is the “gold standard” as much as Aero’s choice (for many reasons) and therefore we see a lot of it. There are many beautiful leathers tanned all over the world.
     
  19. red devil

    red devil Call Me a Cab

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    Exactly, once you reach top end leathers, it is mainly a question of preference
     
  20. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    I don't actually an angle measuring device....
    I have rullers, squares, compass, but no way to measure that!
    Let me see if i find another way.
     
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