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Pkshfo74036

Familiar Face
Messages
68
Usually when I get a new leather jacket, I will use a very high wax content leather conditioner and go over all the seams (only the seams). I do this for 3 reason.

1. Wax the threads so they don't fray and wear out so fast.

2. Soften the leather around the seams to help the break in and avoid broken threads.

3. To make sure the leather holes around the thread are moisturised and don't also don't dry out to much in future.

Does anyone do this, or even agree it sounds logical?
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,958
1. Wax the threads so they don't fray and wear out so fast.
Most new jackets have polyester thread. Poly thread doesn't need any conditioner. Actually, conditioner won't do anything to it.

As far as the leather drying out, I wouldn't worry too much about that. It's a new jacket, with normal wear it'll take decades for the leather to become dry.
 

Pkshfo74036

Familiar Face
Messages
68
Most new jackets have polyester thread. Poly thread doesn't need any conditioner. Actually, conditioner won't do anything to it.

As far as the leather drying out, I wouldn't worry too much about that. It's a new jacket, with normal wear it'll take decades for the leather to become dry.
The jackets I'm talking about are a real mccoy and a flat head, first one cotton thread, second one poly cotton.

Probably right about the drying out. I read one story of someone's arm seam that came off from the armpit section, and the repairer said the leather was very dry, but maybe it was an older jacket, although at the time I thought it didn't look so old.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,579
Probably right about the drying out. I read one story of someone's arm seam that came off from the armpit section, and the repairer said the leather was very dry, but maybe it was an older jacket, although at the time I thought it didn't look so old.

Do you mean the Freewheelers one?

I think that was more a function of certain Japanese brands' tendency to both skive seams and have high stitch density combined with denim bros' tendency to downsize everything. Turns seams into postage stamps lol.
 

Pkshfo74036

Familiar Face
Messages
68
Do you mean the Freewheelers one?

I think that was more a function of certain Japanese brands' tendency to both skive seams and have high stitch density combined with denim bros' tendency to downsize everything. Turns seams into postage stamps lol.
Yes it may have been that one haha. The problem is, I myself own these Japanese leather jackets! So hence the worry :p
 

Will Zach

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,484
Location
SoFlo
Yes it may have been that one haha. The problem is, I myself own these Japanese leather jackets! So hence the worry :p
I think wax may help a little in this situation, actually. It will help the thread slide inside the holes instead of biting into the leather and cutting it. But "little" is an operative word here. If, as @Aloysius says, the leather is skived (thin), stitch density high (perf), and garment undersized, then any significant stress may cause catastrophic failure at the seam.
 

Manolito

Familiar Face
Messages
88
@ jojothenorthstar

I owe a recent Schott 257, their famous civil B3, that I bought around 2019, and it must be noticed that it was sold new, hand-vintaged by their factory ! Maybe the one you bought was this way too and it is why it does not look brand new.

It is just a matter of style and taste, but it does not compromise the quality or durability of the garnment which remains of the high Schott usual standards ! Personaly it is one of my favourite jacket, but i am a bit of a Schott fanboy !

The only problem is that it this jacket is getting crazy expensive, especialy in Europe where it is now around 1800-2000 € (I bought mine new around 1300 € five years ago !) ! Way more than the Aero that seems to be about 1200 €...
 

Biff42

One of the Regulars
Messages
187
For a zip only, probably Dena or JL. I’d send Vanson back to Vanson but did recently have Dena install a two-way 10 Riri on my Force.
I sent my jackets to Dena and she's been great to work with. I have an LW needing a new zipper she'll be working on once her arm heals from a recent surgery. Thanks for the tip.
 
Messages
10,362
I sent my jackets to Dena and she's been great to work with. I have an LW needing a new zipper she'll be working on once her arm heals from a recent surgery. Thanks for the tip.

She is great. Make sure to speak with her about the LW and thick hide. She did three LW main zips for me and politely asked me not to send anymore lol. She did not like the super thick hides; difficult to work on.
 

Biff42

One of the Regulars
Messages
187
She is great. Make sure to speak with her about the LW and thick hide. She did three LW main zips for me and politely asked me not to send anymore lol. She did not like the super thick hides; difficult to work on.
I spoke with her today and told her to keep the LW as long as she needs to. Those 5 gauge zips on the LW don't cut it with that thick hide!
 

bigmanbigtruck

One of the Regulars
Messages
131
She is great. Make sure to speak with her about the LW and thick hide. She did three LW main zips for me and politely asked me not to send anymore lol. She did not like the super thick hides; difficult to work on.
Just curious... since you own a lot of LWs, how often do you find yourself having to replace them? And are these the infamous crowns?
 
Messages
10,362
Just curious... since you own a lot of LWs, how often do you find yourself having to replace them? And are these the infamous crowns?

The crowns are beautiful and bulletproof. Never an issue. If I went new I’d at least get the main Crown zip. The 10 Talons are damn good. I had issues on two jackets with the tape on the main Scoville zips. The third, I can’t recall what the zip was, maybe Talon, was a little frayed on the bottom but still good to go, I just wanted a two-way zip.
 

bigmanbigtruck

One of the Regulars
Messages
131
The crowns are beautiful and bulletproof. Never an issue. If I went new I’d at least get the main Crown zip. The 10 Talons are damn good. I had issues on two jackets with the tape on the main Scoville zips. The third, I can’t recall what the zip was, maybe Talon, was a little frayed on the bottom but still good to go, I just wanted a two-way zip.
Thanks, figured the Crown would replace me before I got a chance to. Will definitely go with it as main zip after seeing this feedback from longtime owner.
 

cbez

One Too Many
Messages
1,101
Location
CA
can anyone ID this schott model? I think it's an older japan model like a 643, but I haven't seen them with the slanted upper pocket and higher placed waist cinches.
2233551977.jpg
2233551982.jpg
 

unhatted

One of the Regulars
Messages
181
Location
UK
please tell me all the reasons I should not buy a grizzly jacket in socal
This is a subjective thing, but do they maybe belong to that genre of jackets that you would have thought looked a bit silly before you got ‘into jackets’? If so you could try and channel that earlier self?
 

torfjord

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,581
Location
Sweden
Do you mean the Freewheelers one?

I think that was more a function of certain Japanese brands' tendency to both skive seams and have high stitch density combined with denim bros' tendency to downsize everything. Turns seams into postage stamps lol.

I might be wrong but I think it was a Fine creek?
 

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