Been making a detachable mouton collar for my Durable « Wild One » Jacket

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Mysteryo, Jun 8, 2021.

  1. Mysteryo

    Mysteryo Practically Family

    Messages:
    997
    Location:
    Nantes (FR)
    CF50CF43-33CF-41D8-8E71-17FD3573CFE5.jpeg I’m the lucky owner of 2 59’s Durable jackets, one size 46 in good « worn »condition, and one in size 44 in an excellent condition (leather and hardware still shiny!), this one also has its original detachable faux fur collar.

    of course the detachable collar doesn’t fit the size 46, and it’s a small deception to me that it has a synthetic mouton fleece.

    So I’ve been planning in my free time, on reproduce this collar for my bigger size jacket and one with a real mouton panel!

    that’s the amateur experience in modestly share with you. So please don’t be too harsh, as it’s a trial and errors fun activity . the result is far from perfect but it does the job.

    here’s a few Picts of the process.

    first, tracing a pattern from the original collar, and extrapoling the measures… 58B6E8B4-2053-49F5-A424-B3EA9D51D6DB.jpeg

    cutting the parts in an heavy paper/cardboard.
    F6254626-5A55-4496-868E-DF1C2DE2E368.jpeg

    Disassembling a vintage golden mouton coat
    C81BCE39-94F7-4BDD-A85F-E8846C53F7C6.jpeg A00605D5-5FA4-409B-A8F3-869E1D3C6F5B.jpeg

    cutting the leather parts
    FF3D6B8F-C84C-4823-9C77-713494439FA6.jpeg C2064954-86BD-48DD-8E89-49BA0C99328F.jpeg C2064954-86BD-48DD-8E89-49BA0C99328F.jpeg


    sewing as best as I can, with my 70’s industrial JuKi Sewing machine
    E97DC141-225C-45D0-9925-5C081DA9C5E6.jpeg

    Aaaaaand, here it is!
    The leather I used is a bit stiff but hopefully it will soften.
    941FFFC6-6F2A-4F48-AD0E-3125FAC0FAE5.jpeg 9134F464-E53A-42B0-94CD-9EB010E87AC2.jpeg
     
  2. Mysteryo

    Mysteryo Practically Family

    Messages:
    997
    Location:
    Nantes (FR)
    Fit picts
    9019CF9A-A3F6-4271-A5B5-0304AE596D84.jpeg BF298423-8AA6-4EA0-AB4F-143D500D40CF.jpeg D371E609-ACE4-4CF4-A58B-0450E39BE85B.jpeg 24D05676-6D74-4A0E-B104-CBCEB8978FCC.jpeg 2119D8F0-0135-49AA-8CC3-6C2C7B3186FA.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

  3. mtrlr

    mtrlr One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    210
    So cool!
     
  4. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,136
    Fantastic. Any time you can do something yourself, I think it really elevates whatever you're working on.

    I have 2 Cals with the mutton collar, both in black. So I started experimenting with the one I was going to sell. I haven't gotten any good offers and it's too nice of a jacket to let it go. I always wanted more of shade of brown like you have done here. So I thought, why not try and bleach the collar. After some experimenting with hydrogen peroxide, watered down bleach and straight up bleach, I gave it a go. I'm still fiddling with it so haven't posted pics, but now I have a mostly black collar, but when the light hits it certain ways, it gives off a brown glow. Really happy with it and makes it different than my other which is straight up black. I was surprised that I had to use pure bleach just to crack the black dye and even then, it took two treatments. They don't make them like they used to, that's for sure.
     
    Will Zach, handymike and photo2u like this.
  5. torfjord

    torfjord One Too Many

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    Location:
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    Well done! I’ve been experimenting with doing a detachable fur collar for my sears but it’s nowhere near where I want it to be just yet. Yours look really nice! It’s a special feeling crafting something yourself.
     
    photo2u likes this.
  6. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,079
    It looks awesome!
     
  7. tmitchell59

    tmitchell59 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,234
    Location:
    Illinois
    Excellent! Great work. This is an expensive item to have made. you did well. I have a similar situation with Ralphs-Pugh jackets; I have one to duplicate and a couple that could used collars. I don't know if I have the skill to do this.

    I often think, where did all the Collars go? Many of the Sears jackets are listed as coming with the collar, yet very few are sold today with the collar.

    Thanks for this inspiration!
     
    Mysteryo likes this.
  8. Jin431

    Jin431 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,407
    Location:
    Bay Area CA
    Well done! Love me some detachable mouton collars myself and this is something I can only dream of doing myself. Jacket looks so good with the fur!
     
    Mysteryo likes this.
  9. photo2u

    photo2u A-List Customer

    Messages:
    395
    Location:
    claremont california
    Excellent work! I am also working in making my own mouton collars for several jackets. You are very talented and the finish product looks excellent!
    I was thinking my self in using goat instead of horsehide to create a more flexible backing. Also, I still in the hunt for some 50s snap fasteners. I was wondering, Did you have some sewing experience before doing this very well done collar? May be as forum we should unite our resources to locate hardware that can be share among members.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2021
    Mysteryo likes this.
  10. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    12,471
    Location:
    Chicago
    Superb! Looks like an OEM part. Sweet! I need to try and do this for my Vanson.
     
    Mysteryo likes this.
  11. red devil

    red devil My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    3,138
    Location:
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    That came out so nice!!
     
    Mysteryo likes this.
  12. Mysteryo

    Mysteryo Practically Family

    Messages:
    997
    Location:
    Nantes (FR)
    Thank you guys, I have not much experience in sewing, I learned things by myself, and as I mentioned it’s trials and errors process.
    But I think that sewing should be part of the education for every one. after all, not so long ago, our grand mothers and mothers commonly knew how to make clothes. It’s a shame such a culture has now become rare.
    But here we go, if there is something I need and can’t find I try to do it myself -well regarding leather.
    I had to learn how to use a machine so that I could repair some of my vintage leather jackets… unfortunately, I don’t have much time for that hobby, but it fills me with great joy to do such little things and learn ho to…
    As for the materials, I found leather in a local fabric shop, as
    Well as the snap (which are not 50’s nor American originals :-(
     
  13. mtrlr

    mtrlr One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    210
    Time to setup a side business to made detachable collar? ;P
     
    Mysteryo likes this.
  14. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    8,679
    Location:
    SoCal
    I love DIY jacket projects, and you’ve done a great job @Mysteryo!
     
    Frank Castle and Mysteryo like this.
  15. Monitor

    Monitor

    Messages:
    13,492
    Impressive!!!
     
    Mysteryo likes this.
  16. J Leather Investigater

    J Leather Investigater One Too Many

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    Good job
     
    Mysteryo likes this.
  17. Will Zach

    Will Zach One Too Many

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    Location:
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    Great job. I have some brass American snaps that fit my 1940s cross-zip perfectly, so if you need a few for your next project I'm happy to share.
     
    Mysteryo likes this.
  18. Canuck Panda

    Canuck Panda A-List Customer

    Messages:
    313
    Great work!
    Your success story makes me want to give my leather alteration a try. Thanks!
     
    Mysteryo likes this.
  19. dudewuttheheck

    dudewuttheheck My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    3,102
    Looks great! Nicely done!
     
    Mysteryo likes this.
  20. Mysteryo

    Mysteryo Practically Family

    Messages:
    997
    Location:
    Nantes (FR)
    I’m interested, next project is the remake of a mouton collar for my Californian CHP cross zip !
     
    Edward likes this.

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