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black hat band

budward

One of the Regulars
Messages
153
Location
Dallas, TX
Anyone know whether a black hat band in a Stetson signifies anything--like the hat's age, quality or something else? The hat in question is a black Stetson Playboy sold by Cottrell's in Denver.

Bud
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
That means it's a more modern hat. I don't remember if Stetson switched to the black in the '60s, or if it wasn't until the '70s, but it's no older than that. Interesting how most hat companies switched from brown to black sweatbands in the same era.

Ah, Cottrell's, now that was a very nice men's store. I have a Stetson I bought from them in the early '80s, my first fedora.

Brad
 

Sefton

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,132
Location
Somewhere among the owls in Maryland
Speaking of modern Stetson, what do you think of 60's Stetson's? I'm wondering if they still made a wide brim type at all then (for the older gentleman or younger with a taste towards classic) or were they all of the "stingy brim" variety?

The picture in my avatar (as of this writing) is from the French film "Le Samourai" with Alain Delon wearing the hat. 1967 film. Unknown vintage on the hat...maybe older, but the crown isn't too tall.

The film's director Jean Pierre Melville was known to have been fond of Stetson hats. Anyone have something on this? Thanks, Sefton
 

Snrbfshn

A-List Customer
Messages
345
Location
Charlotte, NC
When I drilled down into the archives here...

I remember reading Stetson went to the black sweatband for post-1970 hats. Pre-'70 are generally brown. There may have been a transition period. It appears safe to assume anything from the '30s through late '60s is brown.

What gets me is the auction sellers who through ignorance or guile will say "Vintage '40s Stetson" and have the sweat be black as the ace of spades. I usually send them a diplomatically worded question like, "The pix are a little unclear. Does the hat have a brown sweatband (pre-1970) or black one (post-1970)?" Most don't reply, others thank me for the information.
 

budward

One of the Regulars
Messages
153
Location
Dallas, TX
Well, if you fellers are right, then it looks like Mr. Lutz's Playboy (that's the name on the band) dates from the 70s or perhaps the 60s at the earliest. Nonetheless, the felt is really soft and pliable, unlike the card board stiff stuff on sale these days. So I s'pose that Stetson didn't start using the stiff felt until after the 70s? Anyone know when their products started to wane in quality?
 
budward said:
Well, if you fellers are right, then it looks like Mr. Lutz's Playboy (that's the name on the band) dates from the 70s or perhaps the 60s at the earliest. Nonetheless, the felt is really soft and pliable, unlike the card board stiff stuff on sale these days. So I s'pose that Stetson didn't start using the stiff felt until after the 70s? Anyone know when their products started to wane in quality?

Is it a Stetson Playboy or a Stetson Playboy II? The Playboy II came out in the 1960s and was nothing like the original Stetson Playboy. The felt was still decent at that point though. Most of the 60s Stetson's you find will be hats that are good quality.
Stetson started going downhill after they sold out in the 1970s. By the late 1970s early 1980s, they were in such dire straights that they were using bodies that would be rejected by any seeing person. There are accounts of them using bodies with moth damage to make hats and quality being far below standard. The new owners used up all the old leftover stock that Stetson had on hand. This is why you can still find a 70s Stetson with a brown sweatband and liners that do not match the period. They were a merry mix up of parts from all periods.
The Indy craze after the film in the 1980s actually saved Stetson. Their deal with the film got them back on their feet. The hats they made then were still lousy but those hats were what they built their comeback on and they still sell the Temple as a nod to the popularity of that model years after they no longer could use the licensed name.

Regards to all,

J
 

budward

One of the Regulars
Messages
153
Location
Dallas, TX
Interesting history, James. I don't see a "II" anywhere, so must be just a plain ol' Playboy. Kinda thin ribbon, although not as thin as on an Open Road, and the brim is about 2 1/4 inches. Thanks for your insights.

Bud
 

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