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Brooks Gold Label Cafe

Gamma68

One Too Many
Messages
1,929
Location
Detroit, MI
Resurrecting this thread after receiving an eagerly anticipated package this afternoon.

Count me in as a member of the Brooks Gold Label Cafe Racer Fan Club.

I've been lusting after a vintage Brooks CR for a while and it's an instant favorite. Nice leather, fits beautifully, very comfortable. Attractive graining throughout. The lining is surprisingly comfortable and makes the jacket easy to slip on. Interestingly, all the stitching appears to be brown, not black. Love the branded collar snaps.

I believe this label dates it to pre-1979. I'd like to think it's from the 1960s since it says Detroit, not Southfield or Oak Park (neighboring communities where they made jackets later in their history).

Anyone know what the vertical striping in the leather on the sleeve adjacent to the zip is called or what it represents?

I'm feeling proud to own a jacket from the maker who once operated (literally) right down the street from me.

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AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,647
Resurrecting this thread after receiving a eagerly anticipated package this afternoon.

Count me in as a member of the Brooks Gold Label Cafe Racer Fan Club.

I've been lusting after a vintage Brooks CR for a while and it's an instant favorite. Nice leather, fits beautifully, very comfortable. Attractive graining throughout. The lining is surprisingly comfortable and makes the jacket easy to slip on. Interestingly, all the stitching appears to be brown, not black. Love the branded collar snaps.

I believe this label dates it to pre-1979. I'd like to think it's from the 1960s since it says Detroit, not Southfield or Oak Park (neighboring communities where they made jackets later in their history).

Anyone know what the vertical striping in the leather on the sleeve adjacent to the zip is called or what it represents?

I'm feeling proud to own a jacket from the maker who once operated (literally) right down the street from me.

View attachment 128587 View attachment 128588 View attachment 128589 View attachment 128590 View attachment 128591 View attachment 128592 View attachment 128593 View attachment 128594 View attachment 128595
Friggin outstandingly nice!! Gamma. And a hometown favorite. Cool!!
I’d call that “treebark” graining. Sweet! Just made that up.
B
 

bn1966

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,093
Location
UK
Sweet Gamma..very sweet.

I'm a big fan of these, classic, cheap and functional.

Have been out riding all day in the heat over here, early Brooks CR on (armour underneath :)
 

Gamma68

One Too Many
Messages
1,929
Location
Detroit, MI
Friggin outstandingly nice!! Gamma. And a hometown favorite. Cool!!
I’d call that “treebark” graining. Sweet! Just made that up.
B

Thanks, sir! I always love your posts and the enthusiasm that goes with them.

"Treebark," I like that! I think it should stick. Maybe it was @ton312 who mentioned something to me once about this treebark graining, that it's seen in some higher-end jackets. It was on a Fidelity CR I once had and returned due to sizing. I don't know if it shows that it came any particular area of the hide. But I think it adds more character to the leather.
 

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,647
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Thanks, sir! I always love your posts and the enthusiasm that goes with them.

"Treebark," I like that! I think it should stick. Maybe it was @ton312 who mentioned something to me once about this treebark graining, that it's seen in some higher-end jackets. It was on a Fidelity CR I once had and returned due to sizing. I don't know if it shows that it came any particular area of the hide. But I think it adds more character to the leather.
Aww shucks Gamma. You’re too kind.
I like that...treebark...”sticks” thing!!
Made me think of this one thats “off topic” but you may dig.
I’d post it but prob get called a p***y!!
Be well. Bowen
 
Messages
16,493
Awesome! Fits perfectly!

The stripes are just stretch marks, indicating a certain part of the hide has been used, nothing more. I have them on some jackets as well. It's good if the jacket's showing such diversity in texture as it means it wasn't (overly) corrected.
 

jonesy86

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,610
Location
Kauai
Hi, FYI Brooks is still very much in business in Plymouth MA and still makes in the USA. We also make the same traditional styles. We also do repairs on older jackets. I see many posts about trying to date Brooks jackets. The old black/gold labels were replaced in 1978 with the newer label with the red stripe and"Made in USA" instead of "Detroit". Also, early jackets had no zip out liners. You can always contact me through our site brooksleather. I'm glad to help with your questions. Thanks for your interest in Brooks!
Just saw this, good to know! Thanks.
 

jonesy86

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,610
Location
Kauai
Resurrecting this thread after receiving an eagerly anticipated package this afternoon.

Count me in as a member of the Brooks Gold Label Cafe Racer Fan Club.

I've been lusting after a vintage Brooks CR for a while and it's an instant favorite. Nice leather, fits beautifully, very comfortable. Attractive graining throughout. The lining is surprisingly comfortable and makes the jacket easy to slip on. Interestingly, all the stitching appears to be brown, not black. Love the branded collar snaps.

I believe this label dates it to pre-1979. I'd like to think it's from the 1960s since it says Detroit, not Southfield or Oak Park (neighboring communities where they made jackets later in their history).

Anyone know what the vertical striping in the leather on the sleeve adjacent to the zip is called or what it represents?

I'm feeling proud to own a jacket from the maker who once operated (literally) right down the street from me.

View attachment 128587 View attachment 128588 View attachment 128589 View attachment 128590 View attachment 128591 View attachment 128592 View attachment 128593 View attachment 128594 View attachment 128595
Thats a great find, looks like a really nice one. Wear it in good health!
:)
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
As an aside, I found a brown Brooks CR that the seller says Denis Leary wore on "Rescue Me."

https://poshmark.com/listing/Vintage-Brooks-Leather-Cafe-Racer-Jacket-5b10366d8290afeb2bd6adfe

The pictures below seem to match.

MV5BMTU3OTg4MTEyOV5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwNjQ1NzI3Mg@@._V1_.jpg

MV5BMTQyMDEyNjkzNV5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwOTAyODgxNg@@._V1_.jpg


MV5BMTM3MDQzNTcwN15BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwMzgzODcyNg@@._V1_.jpg

It's not the actual jacket Leary wore on screen but the same model. Leary's has no lining (which you can see in the series very clearly and in the above photo) Leary's would also be a size 44 or 46 not a 38 as shown. At six three and 185 pounds (about my size) there is no way a Brooks 38 (which fits like a 36) would even get around his shoulders.
 
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Gamma68

One Too Many
Messages
1,929
Location
Detroit, MI
It's not the actual jacket Leary wore on screen but the same model. Leary's has no lining (which you can see in the series very clearly and in the above photo) Leary's would also be a size 44 or 46 not a 38 as shown. At six three and 185 pounds (about my size) there is no way a Brooks 38 (which fits like a 36) would even get around his shoulders.

The way the seller wrote the post, it could be interpreted a couple different ways. Good eye on the lining. Leary would definitely need to be a smaller guy to fit in a size 38.

The one I just picked up is marked a size 40 and fits like one.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
It was Leary in the Brooks that first alerted me to the cafe racer style. I never cared for them until I saw the Brooks. The jacket Leary wore he must have owned since I have seen him wearing in in a 1990's movie and also off screen outside of the series. The Brooks is such a practical jacket because it is light and the cut is very flattering and cool. Why we are a cumbersome 3oz jacket when you can wear a Brooks? :)
 

Gamma68

One Too Many
Messages
1,929
Location
Detroit, MI
The Brooks is such a practical jacket because it is light and the cut is very flattering and cool. Why we are a cumbersome 3oz jacket when you can wear a Brooks? :)

I agree 100%. And while I love my gold label Brooks, I have to admit that the leather on my steerhide Kehoe is better. It's just as light but has a better hand and feels more uniformly supple. Kehoe is truly a sleeper brand.
 

Wdawg

One of the Regulars
Messages
107
There is something pretty special about the Brooks gold label pattern. They nailed that fit to perfection hitting all the right places without being too slim or too roomy. The leather is nothing special but they somehow transcend that to become more than the sum of their parts.

Out of all the jackets I've had, the one that fits me the best is probably this £35 trashed brooks with a shredded lining and an absolutely criminal YKK zipper replacement..

Maybe I should just give up :D

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ProteinNerd

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,892
Location
Sydney
@Wdawg you could give up because you nailed it!

These are great jackets, the only downside is the crappy liner but if you can find one with an intact liner or have a reasonably priced option to replace it (read: do not live in Australia) then jump on it. I paid more for the damn relining than I did for the jacket!......but that’s just the “living in Australia tax” working as intended.
 
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Messages
16,493
There is something pretty special about the Brooks gold label pattern. They nailed that fit to perfection hitting all the right places without being too slim or too roomy. The leather is nothing special but they somehow transcend that to become more than the sum of their parts.

Out of all the jackets I've had, the one that fits me the best is probably this £35 trashed brooks with a shredded lining and an absolutely criminal YKK zipper replacement..

Maybe I should just give up :D

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Awesome! And I miss my hair... ;_; Well, I shouldn't whine, at least I can grow it back. For now...
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
Wdawg, I think it is unlikely you will get another jacket that looks as cool on as that Brooks. The leather is light but does have character. The shade of brown is nice too. I personally think your jacket looks much better than just about any $1500 custom jacket you could buy.
 
Messages
17,181
Location
Chicago
I've owned literally dozens of Brooks jackets over the years. The pattern is simply impossible to beat. Reed, Kehoe and Brooks all had a very similar cut with only a few small stylistic differences. Without question tho, my all time fav Brooks was this one. The leather was actually much more substantial than the typical Brooks jackets and the fit was really nice. This brooks cost me $85:
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This Aero, well quite a bit more:
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Now granted there is no comparison on some levels, but to Sebs point, there likely doesn't need to be.
 

Gamma68

One Too Many
Messages
1,929
Location
Detroit, MI
Without question tho, my all time fav Brooks was this one. The leather was actually much more substantial than the typical Brooks jackets and the fit was really nice. This brooks cost me $85:
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Was this a later Brooks, a non-gold label jacket? I recall reading somewhere that Brooks hides became thicker later in their history.
 

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