Five Star Leather Jackets

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead, Sep 23, 2020.

  1. Berto

    Berto One of the Regulars

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    229
    Congrats MrProper. Your vest looks stunning.

    Those pockets are huge !!! and the color contrat is perfect.

    Regarding the fur, I like a lot.

    ¿is that Seal 10mm?
     
  2. MrProper

    MrProper One Too Many

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    many thanks
    yes, it is the 10 mm seal. the reinforcements are seal steerhide.
     
    Canuck Panda and Cornelius like this.
  3. Canuck Panda

    Canuck Panda One of the Regulars

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    165
    Great Vest!
    I have to add a vest on my list soon. Thanks.
    That looks like the same fur he uses for the collars. Once they get wet they curl up and looks fluffier.
     
    MrProper likes this.
  4. Canuck Panda

    Canuck Panda One of the Regulars

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    ton312 likes this.
  5. ton312

    ton312

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    Where is yours!?? Was hoping to hear your thoughts and see your pics sooner than later!
     
  6. MrProper

    MrProper One Too Many

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  7. ton312

    ton312

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    Yeah I’m worried about stiffness. Might have to get out the ‘Ol aluminum bat and give it some persuasion. I’m just dying to receive it. The curiosity about this hide is more than I can stand.
     
    MrProper likes this.
  8. Canuck Panda

    Canuck Panda One of the Regulars

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    Pics First:
    5Star Packaging.jpg
    5Star Natural Steer Fit.jpg 5Star Green Wrangler Railman Fit.jpg
    The 5Star Wax on Steerhide:
    1. Shawn upgraded his packaging.
    2. This steerhide is about 4/5 oz. My jacket was still made with skived edges. Ton312 It looks like yours would be made without skiving, please comment when you get yours.
    3. This steerhide is not drapey. Medium temper. I prefer soft temper, especially at this thickness. But I asked for CXL so that's that.
    4. My other experience with 4/5 oz leather was a SB Horween LUX jacket, SOFT temper. I would really recommend this for the thicker hides. The Horween is heavily tumbled/milled, pigment finish and no wax. It's thick and soft. Makes the jacket a lot more wearable. I remember seeing here that Shawn has a milling drum at his facility. Armor jackets is cool but not for everyday. See photos for comparison. They are the same thickness and almost same size, but the softer hide will wrap around the body instead giving me huge lats.
    Soft vs Medium Temper.jpg
    SB SB V2 Lux 10.jpg
    The Green one is Wrangler Horsehide, which is just Horween cavalier with fancy name for the retailer I think. I bought from Maverick and sent to Shawn. I always wanted green leather jacket. But maybe not this green. This is like Lewis Leather green, but with pull up. The jacket is basically a size 39 in Aero's 50s pattern which doesn't exist until now. This is where Shawn's strength is. I am in between size.

    Back to the heavy leather:
    1. Horween has been perfecting their Chromexcel leather for almost a hundred years. No one is gonna surpass them overnight. As much as I don't like Aero's pricing for custom jackets, they got the Horween CXL market cornered. I bought some 2nds Horween CXL HH to send to Shawn, and it will cost about the same as a new Aero jacket on sale with 25 off.
    2. Horween CXL is heavily treated with wax before its aniline finished and then glazed. No matter how many times I wash the damn thing the wax don't come out. Shawn's wax on leather lose the wax after washing, like wax cotton jacket.

    Gotta go. Will be back.
     
    torfjord, Bfd70, jadub and 9 others like this.
  9. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    Thanks for the comparisons!
    Gotta say that the pattern on the green one is excellent!
     
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  10. ton312

    ton312

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    Both outstanding!!!
     
    Canuck Panda likes this.
  11. Hh121

    Hh121 Call Me a Cab

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    No comments on movement? Some extra leather on the back will help the movement I guess.
     
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  12. Canuck Panda

    Canuck Panda One of the Regulars

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    yeah the green a bit bright even for me. but the thing with Shawn is custom sizing. this helps when I am between two sizes that usually have the biggest jump.
     
  13. Canuck Panda

    Canuck Panda One of the Regulars

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    165
    Movement is actually really good. Shawn's pattern is actually very good in this sense. Very mall brand fit but I just recently realize this was also how the original Lewis in the 1920s was built. Will write about this with my bro science back up soon.
    It just doesn't drape, the side gussets do not wrap around the body because the thick leather simply does not want to bend. The leather needs to be softer.
     
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  14. Canuck Panda

    Canuck Panda One of the Regulars

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    I will try that to soften it more. Washing it didn't do the trick. It did nothing to it except I got some bleeding paraffin wax at the seams.
    This hide also has "mane marks". I think he uses cow's front shoulders instead of sides. Mine actually has the mark down the middle. I asked for it though. I didn't know it was possible for cows, less pronounced than horse but still there.
     
    Hh121 likes this.
  15. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    I think the issue with the side panels might be accentuated with the elasticated waist. A strap would allow the side to lay flat.
     
    Canuck Panda likes this.
  16. Wardo1974

    Wardo1974 One of the Regulars

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  17. jacketjunkie

    jacketjunkie One Too Many

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    I think key with using a hide as thick as that is to size down rather than up tbh. It may be super uncomfortable out of the box, but the break-in will be faster as the leather is worked more when you move. Also, less excess material hanging once it is broken in. It‘s insanely much bulk compared to excess material on a thin hide or cotton and will stand out more as that.

    Also, I‘d avoid multi panel designs.. The less seams you got, the less places where like 4 layers of leather are in one spot.. these 1 cm knots will never break in.

    I think I will order a very basic work jacket design without side panels, one piece back, one piece fronts, two handwarmer pockets and that‘s it.
     
    Fonzie likes this.
  18. jacketjunkie

    jacketjunkie One Too Many

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    Is there any record of how that thick natural hide ages in the sun yet? Is it an actual naked hide that will bake in the sun and darken?
     
    Canuck Panda likes this.
  19. jacketjunkie

    jacketjunkie One Too Many

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    Have you worn yours and can comment on color fading in sun?
     
  20. Cornelius

    Cornelius Practically Family

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    Location:
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    Those rivets were a brilliant idea. Perfect measurement for your pattern per usual.
     
    MrProper likes this.

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