Hi. That is a wool lining for the body and satin for the sleeves. I actually didn't spec riveted for the hanger...at first, they forgot to include a hanger and had to go back and do it later. My guess is that the leather is too thick to sew through easily and so rivets might be the most reliable way to get a long term hold. Shawn did say that this was an improved CHL version and that it's drum dyed "all the way through" so it seems like it should not have a topcoat. Maybe I need to verify that with him. Anyway, Shawn did say that this was a very challenging build and that sewing with this heavier leather very difficult. I think they were glad it's done LOL. It has taken about 5 weeks of back and forth to get it completed as they put wrong buttons on and forgot the internal pocket I had spec'd. I'm guessing there was a lot of swearing involved with this one Shawn didn't specifically say the neck stitching was any more problematic than anywhere else, but I'm guessing that was the case. I didn't specify they had to do that but maybe it was to necessary to make the collar come out right. Here I was thinking that the 1.7mm was gonna be easier than the time they must have had with the 2.0mm leather but it sounds like it was still painful. Anyway, they got it done and it's on its way here. Fingers crossed it fits well.