Formal shirt questions - black tie and white tie

[david.dr]

Is it correct to wear a formal white tie evening dress shirt with single cuffs and detachable collar, with a black tie dinner jacket, waistcoat and pants, (ie: tuxedo)?

What are the nuances of formality with the various shirts worn with black tie?


Thanks!

 

[F. J.]

In some circles, it's the only way . . .

Welcome to the Lounge!

I think you'll find everything you need to know by reading The Black Tie Guide.

But the short answer to your question is yes; originally, black tie included a full-dress shirt. In my opinion, it is the best way to go and makes you look the sharpest.

 

[david.dr]

Welcome to the Lounge!


Hi F.J.


Thanks for the note!

Yes, the Black Tie Guide is wonderful.

I was asking the question because I was wondering about some of the hints there that are in between the lines so to speak. Nuances...

Your reply is really helpful and a great perspective..

 

[Guttersnipe]

Is it correct to wear a formal white tie evening dress shirt with single cuffs and detachable collar, with a black tie dinner jacket, waistcoat and pants, (ie: tuxedo)?

What are the nuances of formality with the various shirts worn with black tie?


Thanks!

Yes, although many people do prefer soft front shirts with lay down collars for semi-formal/black tie since they are more comfortable. The nuance is that such a shirt would not be correct to wear with formal/white tie rig.

 

[Rabbit]

With a single-breasted peaked lapel three-piece I'd definitely wear a single cuff stiff-fronted shirt with detachable stiff wing collar, although a Marcella front shirt with detachable stiff wing collar is an option. Turndown collars just look wrong to me with this most formal of all black tie models.
A turndown collar on a soft shirt works best with a DB shawl collar DJ, and it's an option for a DB peaked lapel DJ. The latter is still fine with a stiff wing collar.

 

[Guttersnipe]

With formal and semi-formal wear, it's really important to separate personal tastes from actual etiquette. One of the most amusing examples of this was what I call the Great Notched Lapel Schism, a "passionate" discussion in which some FL members insisted that notched lapel dinner jackets were (are) incorrect. Checkout these Apparel Arts plates for various collar-shirt combos, all of which are 100% "correct" as far as formalize etiquette goes.

 

[Guttersnipe]

 

[Rabbit]

The original accompanying text in Esquire was rather funny:

Glorifying the Velvet Smoking Jacket
November 1934. Please don't go telling your friends that you saw a red dinner
jacket in Esquire. 'Tain 't so. What you see is a velvet house coat or smoking jacket,
which a host may wear for an informal dinner party at home. This is an idea
that has been borrowed from the British. It may properly be worn with the
white tie, or with dinner clothes as sketched here or with street dress. Shown
with it are a white silk shirt with collar attached and black dress tie, dress
trousers and patent leather pumps. The guest is wearing a single-breasted shawl
collar dinner jacket with a semi-soft pleated dress shirt, a high wing collar and
black butterfly tie, patent leather dress shoes and, last but not least, the almost
indispensable dark red carnation. This outfit is correct for an informal dinner
party at home.