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French Hats and makers.

PanosChris

Practically Family
Messages
969
Not strictly a bowler, but I wouldn't know what else to call it. It was part of the two hat deal and it was the one that caught my eye. In style it resembles as Cambridge bowler, but to keep it French let's call it a Melon Sorbonne (which isn't a thing, but has a nice ring to it).
Mouroux & Cauzeret chapeau melon. Size 55 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at 13cm. Corded and with a clasped bow set halfway between a side bow and a backbow. Two gromets on either side and a cord of unknown function. I think this a very early style and the hat certainly shows its age with the felt won down to the shellac on most of the brim and either mothing or wear has done a number on the front of the crown as well. Can't wear it but I still like it.

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Phenomenal! Any idea who the maker might be? I have one with the same paper label
 
Messages
17,788
Location
Nederland
Sools by Mossant or Mossant for Sools (take your pick). Fedora in blue (Bleu Oxfort according to the label - the French didn't bother to check the spelling of Oxford obviously). I have another Mossant in this colour which is very attractive. Size 56 with the bound brim at 6cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Superb felt with a great hand. Not exactly lightweight at 115 grams, but certainly not a heavy felt either.

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Messages
17,788
Location
Nederland
Another Mossant. Mossant Bayard homburg, or sometimes called "diplomatique" by the French, in a grey colour called gris fer (iron grey). Borsalino has a grey with that exact same name. Size 56 with the bound brim at 5,7cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. All the Mossant quality is there. I left it without side dents for now.

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Messages
17,788
Location
Nederland
Fléchet Chauvac heather felt fedora in grey. Size 58, but also seems closer to size 57. Overwelt brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10,5cm in front. This one seems very determined to hold on to its teardrop shape, so who am I to argue?
Lovely heather felt and a nice shark gill bow on the ribbon, but that does need replacement since it's quite dirty. Underside of the brim has some nibbles, but because of the heather felt they hardly show. No label inside the hat. Sold by Sools, Paris.

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Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,587
Location
Central Texas
I like the overall look of that one Stefan. The heather felt looks great on that style.

Fléchet Chauvac heather felt fedora in grey. Size 58, but also seems closer to size 57. Overwelt brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10,5cm in front. This one seems very determined to hold on to its teardrop shape, so who am I to argue?
Lovely heather felt and a nice shark gill bow on the ribbon, but that does need replacement since it's quite dirty. Underside of the brim has some nibbles, but because of the heather felt they hardly show. No label inside the hat. Sold by Sools, Paris.

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flechet chauvac_10.jpg


flechet chauvac_11.jpg
 

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,633
Location
Northern California
Well, I didn't really need another black Homburg. But, I couldn't resist throwing out a modest maximum bid on this one, incorrectly described as a bowler. It looked quite a bit like a bowler in the seller's pics, so I was not 100 percent sure until I opened the box.

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The crown is about 5 1/4 inches open, brim is 2 inches with curl front to back, 1 3/4 inches on the sides. 2 inch ribbon. 148 grams. No tags or stickers to be found under the sweat. The felt is very nice with a soft hand. The sweatband seems well attached but somewhat stiff. It is responding well to an application of Obenauf's leather conditioner. There is a darker spot on the top of the crown (that doesn't smell like Obenauf's :) ) that isn't enough of a distraction to make me want to give it a naptha bath. Yet...
I'm wondering if this one could be 30's. Any thoughts or opinions welcomed!
 
Messages
17,788
Location
Nederland
Well, I didn't really need another black Homburg. But, I couldn't resist throwing out a modest maximum bid on this one, incorrectly described as a bowler. It looked quite a bit like a bowler in the seller's pics, so I was not 100 percent sure until I opened the box.

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The crown is about 5 1/4 inches open, brim is 2 inches with curl front to back, 1 3/4 inches on the sides. 2 inch ribbon. 148 grams. No tags or stickers to be found under the sweat. The felt is very nice with a soft hand. The sweatband seems well attached but somewhat stiff. It is responding well to an application of Obenauf's leather conditioner. There is a darker spot on the top of the crown (that doesn't smell like Obenauf's :) ) that isn't enough of a distraction to make me want to give it a naptha bath. Yet...
I'm wondering if this one could be 30's. Any thoughts or opinions welcomed!
It's a very cool find, John. My experience with Gelot is that their felts are wonderful, but the finishing is more pedestrian. Like with most french hats it's almost impossible to say when they were made, because we don't have anything to go on really.
 

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,633
Location
Northern California
It's a very cool find, John. My experience with Gelot is that their felts are wonderful, but the finishing is more pedestrian. Like with most french hats it's almost impossible to say when they were made, because we don't have anything to go on really.
Thanks Stefan! I was very happy to win it, and even happier that it fits so well.
It is a good hat for the visually impaired as it has a really nice hand, looks beautiful in macro, without many pesky little details that I have to break out the magnifyer to enjoy. :)
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,269
Location
Denmark
Thanks Stefan! I was very happy to win it, and even happier that it fits so well.
It is a good hat for the visually impaired as it has a really nice hand, looks beautiful in macro, without many pesky little details that I have to break out the magnifyer to enjoy. :)
My French hat rule of thumb is, if it's a Mossant, Gelot, and/or sold in Sools, buy it!

Nice catch, John!
 

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