Highwayman - Zip Sleeve Highwayman Database

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by AeroFan_07, Feb 15, 2020.

  1. AeroFan_07

    AeroFan_07 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,398
    Location:
    Iowa
    Had an idea to create a Highwayman & Zip Sleeve Highwayman database here. Really a repository so that folks looking to buy one have an archive for many questions to possibly be answered. We can certainly do this for other makes & models too.

    Open to any discussion, question and Photos please of your jackets! Fit Photos also welcome. Premier, Standard, Vintage, New, you name it!
    • History of the jacket
    • Modification you have or are considering
    • Sizing questions
    • Comparisons in size and fit to similar/dissimilar jackets
    • Linings
    • Leather used
    • Collar modifications
    • Zippers
    • Storm Cuffs
    • Dreams - what you would do different the next time?
    • How it works
    • How it does not work
    • ????
    I'll start the ball rolling with a short intro into my Highwayman journey. I tried on several back in 2013 in Seattle at Thurston Brothers' shop. I really liked them but found the pricing a bit much. I was fully intent on saving up and buying one the next year from them. Long story short, I did not buy a Highwayman until 2017, I just could not get the fit down.

    Finally tried out a zip-sleeve model, and after a few iterations, I have come full circle on this jacket. I really thought I would never find it to fit me, but it's so simple of a jacket, that I really wanted to try.

    Finally Tony's Zip-sleeve HWM in Blue FQHH sold me, and while it's a rather snug fit, I have loved breaking it in. This is a Size 44 in the Premier fit, which really makes a lot of difference in this jacket:

    DSC_0097.JPG DSC_0099.JPG

    The Blue X on the wall was to trick my camera into focusing prior to me arriving in the shot using the self timer on a tripod. Since it's a blank white wall it could not focus in time otherwise.

    Then I tried and ultimately decided against a Brown Steerhide HWM of the regular variety. It just did not go where I wanted it to be, if you will.

    What did work next is the Black Size 42 in the Standard fit, more of a jacket to layer under, and that's pretty needed right now:

    DSC_0466.JPG DSC_0468.JPG

    Finally a nine year old Steerhide Zip Sleeve HWM that I purchased here in the past few weekend. This jacket is not yet fully broken in. The brass hardware on black leather with red tartin lining are a neat combination. These photos do show, however that while a decent fit, the HWM is tricky to get "right." This is a tag size of 44.

    DSC_0462.JPG
    DSC_0464.JPG

    This jacket has an interesting feature I have not seen on a Highwayman prior. It has a throat latch that buttons over from Left to Right. My '30's Half-belt also has this feature. I have not used it much, but it's nice to know it's there. Anyone else have one of these?

    IMG_6976.JPG IMG_6977.JPG

    My overall advice if you are looking into a Highwayman is to try a few on before making the purchase decision. Getting measured at a suit shop would certainly help. Consider ahead of time what you are looking for (and not looking for) and try and nail the fit first.

    Enjoy!
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2020
    Alexlutov, handymike, steve u and 8 others like this.
  2. Uffizi

    Uffizi New in Town

    Messages:
    24
    Awesome. Easily one of the best jacket designs ever and has been done by so many different makers I'd love to see all the small variations that are no doubt going to pop up on this thread.

    Looking forward to difference on the collar tips with this make in particular. Just something I've always noticed.

    Really love posts like this. History and always so many cool pics you would have never seen otherwise. Thanks ahead of time.
     
    AeroFan_07 likes this.
  3. Psant25

    Psant25 Practically Family

    Messages:
    606
    I really like the fit of your second jacket.

    i sure love my two zip sleeve highwayman jackets. One black, one brown. Both tumbled cxl Horse. Im good to go. Need to add some updated pics. My brown in the same size 38 is ever so slightly bigger in the chest and body. I am able to layer a little better with it. i tried and failed on a pair of premier hwyman jackets before getting the standard version. I enjoy the wider shoulder and boxy fit.
     
    ton312 and Dav like this.
  4. Dav

    Dav One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,591
    Location:
    Somerset, England
    This is my one, it'll be 10 years old in June.
    Size 42 with a 26 body and arms, if I recall. Apart from that it's pretty standard, brown FQHH with Alpaca lining.
    It is a little large for just a t-shirt but is great with a layer, which is fine by me as I have other jackets for that use.
    I love it and have worn the hell out of it since I got it.
    ResizerImage1482X1345.jpg ResizerImage1509X2057.jpg ResizerImage1566X1499.jpg ResizerImage2130X1599.jpg ResizerImage2337X1599.jpg
     
    4444Design, Hh121, Jarman and 17 others like this.
  5. Carlos840

    Carlos840 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,753
    Location:
    London
    You sir deserve the trophy of most worn in jacket on TFL.
    Every time i see your pics i feel like an idiot for having so many jackets that will never look half as cool as this.
    Do you offer a professional break in service?
     
  6. AeroFan_07

    AeroFan_07 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,398
    Location:
    Iowa
  7. El Marro

    El Marro One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,816
    Location:
    California
    Cool thread AeroFan!
    The Highwayman was my first “real” leather jacket which I purchased from Thurston Brothers stock back in 2015. It was brown CXL steerhide and everything about it was great except the fit. It was boxy and blousy and drawing in the straps at the waist only accentuated the fact. I remember looking at photos here on TFL of you guys wearing your trim Sheene’s, Board Racers, Bootleggers, etc. and wondering why my jacket didn’t fit the same way.
    Eventually I moved that jacket on and went on in pursuit of other styles, mainly cross zips. Along the way I learned a lot about fit and what numbers worked for me when buying a jacket. In the last year I have picked up two used Highwayman off EBay in both cases I have been pretty pleased with the fit.
    The first was a size 46 made in natural horsehide from the Comipel tannery in Italy. This jacket was part of an Aero x Epaulet collaboration but the new owner must not of liked it at all because it was brand new when it arrived to me.
    1AB63978-4BB4-4FA4-B6B7-7B4A02BCDC82.jpeg
    My most recent Highwayman was posted in the Finds and Deals thread here and the price was too tempting for me to pass up. Though it is labeled a size 42 The measurements looked like they would be good and they are. It is a little tight through the shoulders but still comfortable to wear. I reached out to Aero to inquire as to what the leather was on this one and they said it was a midweight European horsehide that was only available for a short time. This jacket was also in practically brand new condition.
    22F94CC0-CDBE-4537-9A07-27356D106DA6.jpeg That is my Highwayman story. I completely agree that it is a great jacket as long as you get the fit right.
     
  8. jpk_NJ

    jpk_NJ Practically Family

    Messages:
    511
    Location:
    NJ
    Why did I click this?! Now I'm getting that tiny voice saying I need a black fqhh Highwayman. Your standard fit 42 is my ideal look / fit preference. Given Im 5'10 160 32"jeans, Im probably a 40. Maybe a standard 40 top / tapered to 38. If you don't mind the ask, what's your usual jean waist size?
     
    El Marro likes this.
  9. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,362
    Location:
    SoCal
    I'm roughly the same size as jpk_NJ, and here are my Highwayman jackets:
    First is my Connolly Steerhide Highwayman made in the mid-1980s (size 38)
    [​IMG]

    next, my Premier Highwayman in CXL made 30 years later in 2016 (size 38):
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2020
  10. ton312

    ton312 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    9,412
    Location:
    Chicago
    I really struggle with HWM. It’s a jacket I want to love (and generally do on other people) but personally hate for myself. I know it’s meant to be “boxy” but I can’t help but feel it’s too much so. The p2p and hem are too close in measurements and as stated the waist tabs are set too low, cinching them in creates a hefty bag of leather. It’s like inflating a hot air balloon. There have been many beautiful examples of the pattern posted here and some really great fits. To me this is the hardest pattern to get along with, particularly if you have a very V shaped upper body. All that said, I’m regularly talking myself out of a shorter, standard HWM with a mouton collar, nylon quilted liner and storm cuffs.
     
    SinSir, Peacoat, AlexB and 4 others like this.
  11. Size 40 CXL HH Hwymn with 25 3/4" sleeves ( My first Aero jkt )......

    20180417_130740.jpg 20180417_130855.jpg
     
  12. AeroFan_07

    AeroFan_07 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,398
    Location:
    Iowa
    So I'm a size 36 waist, 34 inseam length. A standard fit size 40 may be too large for you in this style.
     
  13. Alexlutov

    Alexlutov One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    250
    My Highwayman. I decided to sell it, I need a sleeve 26 at least..here it is 25 and the back is 25 20200116_133248.jpg 20200116_133218.jpg 20200116_133155.jpg
     
    Imuricecreamman, handymike and Dav like this.
  14. AlexB

    AlexB One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    275
    Location:
    Berlin
    Both of these jackets look super cool!!
     
    handymike likes this.
  15. AeroFan_07

    AeroFan_07 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,398
    Location:
    Iowa
    Finally had a chance to do some good outdoor photos of the new Standard Black Steerhide Highwayman that Carrie at Thurston's had as a stock jacket. I think this was to be a fit jacket, but I wound up buying it around 2 months back before it ever had a chance to be a fit jacket.

    It was noted that this is CXL (Horween) Steerhide that was "Particularly heavy." Indeed it is. Jacket here weighs around 8 lbs, in a Stock size 42, and the fit is rather close to a standard 46 jacket. I wanted it a little loose for this one. I also really loved the lightweight wool tartin liner in the design & color that is featured in this one.

    DSC01054.JPG

    Liner and pocket:

    DSC01046.JPG

    Back design:

    DSC01055.JPG
    Pretty standard for a Highwayman, Nickel Talon hardware, but accented with Olive Drill Stitching being one more noticeable feature. No special features to the sleeve ends, just simple straightforward, and a versatile jacket was what I was after here.

    Now one surprising feature is the leather itself. While indeed Horween CXL Steerhide, this Steerhide has a much different "feel" or "hand" than other CXL Steerhide Aero Jackets I own, and have tried on. Most of them really soften up as you wear them, even after just 10-15 minutes there is a notable difference in the feel. This is not the case with this jacket. It's very robust, almost rigid. Even after quite a bit of time wearing, the "give" is very slight. It reminds me of Vanson's "Competition Weight" Steerhide leather and how simply rigid it really is. It will break in, but slowly, and actually in this case that will be fine. Here are some close ups of the leather, along with the small amount of break-in occurring in the sleeves. It will be a long time before this will be seen in the body of this jacket:

    DSC01057.JPG DSC01058.JPG

    And the sleeve, I have worn this jacket 3-4 times in the light rain & snow just to help it along, gently, and slowly. I have probably worn the jacket at least 20-25 hours so far and on 20+ separate occasions.

    DSC01050.JPG

    Sometimes it's worth being a little patient. Maybe we're all getting reminders of this now. Yes, I am wearing this heavy armor as I remain mostly at home, working remotely. Hope this is helpful, I can post additional details & dimensions of this one if that may help you out. Enjoy this time as we start into spring! :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2020
    El Marro, Torstein, Boyo and 5 others like this.
  16. AeroFan_07

    AeroFan_07 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,398
    Location:
    Iowa
    Almost forgot the fit photos:

    DSC_0545.JPG
    DSC_0542.JPG DSC_0543.JPG DSC_0544.JPG

    World not want to go any shorter on length on this pattern.
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2020
    El Marro, Torstein, Boyo and 5 others like this.
  17. Hh121

    Hh121 One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,724
    Stuart will call this is a 5oz plus if it is his hide.
     
  18. red devil

    red devil One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,924
    Location:
    London
    Are you sure? He never called anything 5oz plus with me, the heaviest he had was "close to 5oz" for HH that is
     
  19. Torstein

    Torstein New in Town

    Messages:
    4
    AeroFan_07 likes this.

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