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Highwayman - Zip Sleeve Highwayman Database

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,698
Location
Iowa
Had an idea to create a Highwayman & Zip Sleeve Highwayman database here. Really a repository so that folks looking to buy one have an archive for many questions to possibly be answered. We can certainly do this for other makes & models too.

Open to any discussion, question and Photos please of your jackets! Fit Photos also welcome. Premier, Standard, Vintage, New, you name it!
  • History of the jacket
  • Modification you have or are considering
  • Sizing questions
  • Comparisons in size and fit to similar/dissimilar jackets
  • Linings
  • Leather used
  • Collar modifications
  • Zippers
  • Storm Cuffs
  • Dreams - what you would do different the next time?
  • How it works
  • How it does not work
  • ????
I'll start the ball rolling with a short intro into my Highwayman journey. I tried on several back in 2013 in Seattle at Thurston Brothers' shop. I really liked them but found the pricing a bit much. I was fully intent on saving up and buying one the next year from them. Long story short, I did not buy a Highwayman until 2017, I just could not get the fit down.

Finally tried out a zip-sleeve model, and after a few iterations, I have come full circle on this jacket. I really thought I would never find it to fit me, but it's so simple of a jacket, that I really wanted to try.

Finally Tony's Zip-sleeve HWM in Blue FQHH sold me, and while it's a rather snug fit, I have loved breaking it in. This is a Size 44 in the Premier fit, which really makes a lot of difference in this jacket:

DSC_0097.JPG DSC_0099.JPG

The Blue X on the wall was to trick my camera into focusing prior to me arriving in the shot using the self timer on a tripod. Since it's a blank white wall it could not focus in time otherwise.

Then I tried and ultimately decided against a Brown Steerhide HWM of the regular variety. It just did not go where I wanted it to be, if you will.

What did work next is the Black Size 42 in the Standard fit, more of a jacket to layer under, and that's pretty needed right now:

DSC_0466.JPG DSC_0468.JPG

Finally a nine year old Steerhide Zip Sleeve HWM that I purchased here in the past few weekend. This jacket is not yet fully broken in. The brass hardware on black leather with red tartin lining are a neat combination. These photos do show, however that while a decent fit, the HWM is tricky to get "right." This is a tag size of 44.

DSC_0462.JPG
DSC_0464.JPG

This jacket has an interesting feature I have not seen on a Highwayman prior. It has a throat latch that buttons over from Left to Right. My '30's Half-belt also has this feature. I have not used it much, but it's nice to know it's there. Anyone else have one of these?

IMG_6976.JPG IMG_6977.JPG

My overall advice if you are looking into a Highwayman is to try a few on before making the purchase decision. Getting measured at a suit shop would certainly help. Consider ahead of time what you are looking for (and not looking for) and try and nail the fit first.

Enjoy!
 
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Uffizi

New in Town
Messages
24
Awesome. Easily one of the best jacket designs ever and has been done by so many different makers I'd love to see all the small variations that are no doubt going to pop up on this thread.

Looking forward to difference on the collar tips with this make in particular. Just something I've always noticed.

Really love posts like this. History and always so many cool pics you would have never seen otherwise. Thanks ahead of time.
 

Psant25

One Too Many
Messages
1,391
I really like the fit of your second jacket.

i sure love my two zip sleeve highwayman jackets. One black, one brown. Both tumbled cxl Horse. Im good to go. Need to add some updated pics. My brown in the same size 38 is ever so slightly bigger in the chest and body. I am able to layer a little better with it. i tried and failed on a pair of premier hwyman jackets before getting the standard version. I enjoy the wider shoulder and boxy fit.
 

Dav

One Too Many
Messages
1,708
Location
Somerset, England
This is my one, it'll be 10 years old in June.
Size 42 with a 26 body and arms, if I recall. Apart from that it's pretty standard, brown FQHH with Alpaca lining.
It is a little large for just a t-shirt but is great with a layer, which is fine by me as I have other jackets for that use.
I love it and have worn the hell out of it since I got it.
ResizerImage1482X1345.jpg
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Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,729
Location
London
This is my one, it'll be 10 years old in June.
Size 42 with a 26 body and arms, if I recall. Apart from that it's pretty standard, brown FQHH with Alpaca lining.
It is a little large for just a t-shirt but is great with a layer, which is fine by me as I have other jackets for that use.
I love it and have worn the hell out of it since I got it.
View attachment 213308 View attachment 213309 View attachment 213310 View attachment 213311 View attachment 213312

You sir deserve the trophy of most worn in jacket on TFL.
Every time i see your pics i feel like an idiot for having so many jackets that will never look half as cool as this.
Do you offer a professional break in service?
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,145
Location
California
Cool thread AeroFan!
The Highwayman was my first “real” leather jacket which I purchased from Thurston Brothers stock back in 2015. It was brown CXL steerhide and everything about it was great except the fit. It was boxy and blousy and drawing in the straps at the waist only accentuated the fact. I remember looking at photos here on TFL of you guys wearing your trim Sheene’s, Board Racers, Bootleggers, etc. and wondering why my jacket didn’t fit the same way.
Eventually I moved that jacket on and went on in pursuit of other styles, mainly cross zips. Along the way I learned a lot about fit and what numbers worked for me when buying a jacket. In the last year I have picked up two used Highwayman off EBay in both cases I have been pretty pleased with the fit.
The first was a size 46 made in natural horsehide from the Comipel tannery in Italy. This jacket was part of an Aero x Epaulet collaboration but the new owner must not of liked it at all because it was brand new when it arrived to me.
1AB63978-4BB4-4FA4-B6B7-7B4A02BCDC82.jpeg

My most recent Highwayman was posted in the Finds and Deals thread here and the price was too tempting for me to pass up. Though it is labeled a size 42 The measurements looked like they would be good and they are. It is a little tight through the shoulders but still comfortable to wear. I reached out to Aero to inquire as to what the leather was on this one and they said it was a midweight European horsehide that was only available for a short time. This jacket was also in practically brand new condition.
22F94CC0-CDBE-4537-9A07-27356D106DA6.jpeg
That is my Highwayman story. I completely agree that it is a great jacket as long as you get the fit right.
 

jpk_NJ

One Too Many
Messages
1,153
Location
NJ
Why did I click this?! Now I'm getting that tiny voice saying I need a black fqhh Highwayman. Your standard fit 42 is my ideal look / fit preference. Given Im 5'10 160 32"jeans, Im probably a 40. Maybe a standard 40 top / tapered to 38. If you don't mind the ask, what's your usual jean waist size?
 
Messages
14,900
Location
Chicago
I really struggle with HWM. It’s a jacket I want to love (and generally do on other people) but personally hate for myself. I know it’s meant to be “boxy” but I can’t help but feel it’s too much so. The p2p and hem are too close in measurements and as stated the waist tabs are set too low, cinching them in creates a hefty bag of leather. It’s like inflating a hot air balloon. There have been many beautiful examples of the pattern posted here and some really great fits. To me this is the hardest pattern to get along with, particularly if you have a very V shaped upper body. All that said, I’m regularly talking myself out of a shorter, standard HWM with a mouton collar, nylon quilted liner and storm cuffs.
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,698
Location
Iowa
Why did I click this?! Now I'm getting that tiny voice saying I need a black fqhh Highwayman. Your standard fit 42 is my ideal look / fit preference. Given Im 5'10 160 32"jeans, Im probably a 40. Maybe a standard 40 top / tapered to 38. If you don't mind the ask, what's your usual jean waist size?

So I'm a size 36 waist, 34 inseam length. A standard fit size 40 may be too large for you in this style.
 

AlexB

One of the Regulars
Messages
282
Location
Berlin
I'm roughly the same size as jpk_NJ, and here are my Highwayman jackets:
First is my Connolly Steerhide Highwayman made in the mid-1980s (size 38)
WAIQhdi.jpg


next, my Premier Highwayman in CXL made 30 years later in 2016 (size 38):
DYtvxpb.jpg
Both of these jackets look super cool!!
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,698
Location
Iowa
Finally had a chance to do some good outdoor photos of the new Standard Black Steerhide Highwayman that Carrie at Thurston's had as a stock jacket. I think this was to be a fit jacket, but I wound up buying it around 2 months back before it ever had a chance to be a fit jacket.

It was noted that this is CXL (Horween) Steerhide that was "Particularly heavy." Indeed it is. Jacket here weighs around 8 lbs, in a Stock size 42, and the fit is rather close to a standard 46 jacket. I wanted it a little loose for this one. I also really loved the lightweight wool tartin liner in the design & color that is featured in this one.

DSC01054.JPG


Liner and pocket:

DSC01046.JPG


Back design:

DSC01055.JPG

Pretty standard for a Highwayman, Nickel Talon hardware, but accented with Olive Drill Stitching being one more noticeable feature. No special features to the sleeve ends, just simple straightforward, and a versatile jacket was what I was after here.

Now one surprising feature is the leather itself. While indeed Horween CXL Steerhide, this Steerhide has a much different "feel" or "hand" than other CXL Steerhide Aero Jackets I own, and have tried on. Most of them really soften up as you wear them, even after just 10-15 minutes there is a notable difference in the feel. This is not the case with this jacket. It's very robust, almost rigid. Even after quite a bit of time wearing, the "give" is very slight. It reminds me of Vanson's "Competition Weight" Steerhide leather and how simply rigid it really is. It will break in, but slowly, and actually in this case that will be fine. Here are some close ups of the leather, along with the small amount of break-in occurring in the sleeves. It will be a long time before this will be seen in the body of this jacket:

DSC01057.JPG DSC01058.JPG

And the sleeve, I have worn this jacket 3-4 times in the light rain & snow just to help it along, gently, and slowly. I have probably worn the jacket at least 20-25 hours so far and on 20+ separate occasions.

DSC01050.JPG

Sometimes it's worth being a little patient. Maybe we're all getting reminders of this now. Yes, I am wearing this heavy armor as I remain mostly at home, working remotely. Hope this is helpful, I can post additional details & dimensions of this one if that may help you out. Enjoy this time as we start into spring! :)
 
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Hh121

Banned
Messages
3,008
Finally had a chance to do some good outdoor photos of the new Standard Black Steerhide Highwayman that Carrie at Thurston's had as a stock jacket. I think this was to be a fit jacket, but I wound up buying it around 2 months back before it ever had a chance to be a fit jacket.

It was noted that this is CXL (Horween) Steerhide that was "Particularly heavy." Indeed it is. Jacket here weighs around 8 lbs, in a Stock size 42, and the fit is rather close to a standard 46 jacket. I wanted it a little loose for this one. I also really loved the lightweight wool tartin liner in the design & color that is featured in this one.

View attachment 222500

Liner and pocket:

View attachment 222501

Back design:

View attachment 222502
Pretty standard for a Highwayman, Nickel Talon hardware, but accented with Olive Drill Stitching being one more noticeable feature. No special features to the sleeve ends, just simple straightforward, and a versatile jacket was what I was after here.

Now one surprising feature is the leather itself. While indeed Horween CXL Steerhide, this Steerhide has a much different "feel" or "hand" than other CXL Steerhide Aero Jackets I own, and have tried on. Most of them really soften up as you wear them, even after just 10-15 minutes there is a notable difference in the feel. This is not the case with this jacket. It's very robust, almost rigid. Even after quite a bit of time wearing, the "give" is very slight. It reminds me of Vanson's "Competition Weight" Steerhide leather and how simply rigid it really is. It will break in, but slowly, and actually in this case that will be fine. Here are some close ups of the leather, along with the small amount of break-in occurring in the sleeves. It will be a long time before this will be seen in the body of this jacket:

View attachment 222503 View attachment 222504

And the sleeve, I have worn this jacket 3-4 times in the light rain & snow just to help it along, gently, and slowly. I have probably worn the jacket at least 20-25 hours so far and on 20+ separate occasions.

View attachment 222505

Sometimes it's work being a little patient. Maybe we're all getting reminders of this now. Yes, I am wearing this heavy armor as I remain mostly at home, working remotely. Hope this is helpful, I can post additional details & dimensions of this one if that may help you out. Enjoy this time as we start into spring! :)
Stuart will call this is a 5oz plus if it is his hide.
 

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