Homburg Nation

[mayserwegener]

R. & M. Wegener "Extra 9", 57 cm possibly later 1950s. The Gray Felt has a great Smooth Finish and with contrasting black Bow and light gray Brim Binding. The overall quality and condition are excellent.

Open Crown

 

[Pellie]

In 100% mint condition black P & C Habig homburg. I wish this one would fit me, but it's too big for my head even with some corkstrips behind the sweatband. The label says it's a size 60, but i think it's more like 61/62. Beautiful hat nevertheless. So if anyone is interested in this, please pm me.

 

[Rmccamey]

Excellent!

R. & M. Wegener "Extra 9", 57 cm possibly later 1950s. The Gray Felt has a great Smooth Finish and with contrasting black Bow and light gray Brim Binding. The overall quality and condition are excellent.

Open Crown

 

[mayserwegener]

Excellent!

Randy, Thank you!

 

[steur]

R. & M. Wegener "Extra 9", 57 cm possibly later 1950s. The Gray Felt has a great Smooth Finish and with contrasting black Bow and light gray Brim Binding. The overall quality and condition are excellent.

Open Crown

That is beauty, Steve. Classic colours. Love the way the brim curl is done.

 

[steur]

In 100% mint condition black P & C Habig homburg. I wish this one would fit me, but it's too big for my head even with some corkstrips behind the sweatband. The label says it's a size 60, but i think it's more like 61/62. Beautiful hat nevertheless. So if anyone is interested in this, please pm me.
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Excellent find, Marcel. Gorgeous hat.

 

[mayserwegener]

That is beauty, Steve. Classic colours. Love the way the brim curl is done.

Stefan, Thank you! Great observation regarding the brim curl. The mid width band is nearly hidden so had to take photos from a higher angle.

 

[Bobby Marshall]

Another great one on the way.

 

[Bobby Marshall]

Oh man!

 

[steur]

T&W Lees homburg in black. Size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. I say homburg, but this one is not the traditional homburg, but leans towards a more western style with a somewhat wider brim and more of a pencil curled brimfinish. Squarish crown on it. Made especially for Dutch retailer Hollenkamp.
All the usual T&W Lees quality is there. I don't find enough of these T&W Lees hats, which is a pity.

 

[mayserwegener]

Hückel Weilheim "Derby", 57 1/2 cm, possibly late 1950s. Great form and the felt finish is fantastic. Also in mint condition.

Open Crown

 

[Rmccamey]

Beautiful!

Hückel Weilheim "Derby", 57 1/2 cm, possibly late 1950s. Great form and the felt finish is fantastic. Also in mint condition.

Open Crown

 

[mayserwegener]

Beautiful!

Randy, Thank you!

 

[steur]

Cambiaghi homburg in grey woolfelt. Size 56 with the bound brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Brim curl is still a bit wavey due to poor storage and it has some mothdamage on the underside of the brim. Cambiaghi was a manufacturer specialised in woolfelt, but we rarely see homburgs made out of wool. Reason is that they often were "Sunday best" hats and/or aimed at customers who could afford furfelt.
This one is probably a forties hat. The sweatband mentions the 9 grand prix, the last one of which was 1937, so it is later than that date. They did a pretty good job on it: the hat weighs 137 grams.

 

[Steve1857]

Cambiaghi homburg in grey woolfelt. Size 56 with the bound brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Brim curl is still a bit wavey due to poor storage and it has some mothdamage on the underside of the brim. Cambiaghi was a manufacturer specialised in woolfelt, but we rarely see homburgs made out of wool. Reason is that they often were "Sunday best" hats and/or aimed at customers who could afford furfelt.

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This one is probably a forties hat. The sweatband mentions the 9 grand prix, the last one of which was 1937, so it is later than that date. They did a pretty good job on it: the hat weighs 137 grams.

Nice find, Stefan.

 

[Pellie]

Cambiaghi homburg in grey woolfelt. Size 56 with the bound brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Brim curl is still a bit wavey due to poor storage and it has some mothdamage on the underside of the brim. Cambiaghi was a manufacturer specialised in woolfelt, but we rarely see homburgs made out of wool. Reason is that they often were "Sunday best" hats and/or aimed at customers who could afford furfelt.
This one is probably a forties hat. The sweatband mentions the 9 grand prix, the last one of which was 1937, so it is later than that date. They did a pretty good job on it: the hat weighs 137 grams.

How do you know for sure it's woolfelt?

 

[steur]

How do you know for sure it's woolfelt?

It smells different.

 

[Pellie]

It smells different.

Seriously?

 

[Daniele Tanto]

It smells different.

Marcel, how can you be sure that felt is wool, or a mixture of hair and wool, or just fur?
Especially with your eyes and hands and in particular the fingertips that touch or caress the felt. This is for me the best test to have an indication of the components of the felt. The consistency is different.
Wool can be soft and "silky" especially in hats from a hundred years ago, or more rigid and prone to some less precise folds than fur, this in more recent hats.
The smell can have an influence, especially after using steam to revive the felt. Wool has a different smell than fur. In the production of Italian hats and I believe also in the European one, the use of mixtures of various hairs is the basis of the felt, therefore wool in different quantities is often present in magnificent felts.
It is a question of knowing how to work it and in all the Alps or mountain ranges of Europe the felts have been almost exclusively made of wool, therefore the tradition of its working is very ancient and with it we find all the working characteristics of an art, that of weaving, which is a tradition.
And then let's say frankly that the belief that a felt is made of a single component, whatever it is, is a chimera.

 

[steur]

Seriously?

Yup. If you steam a woolfelt hat it has distinct smell, very similar to let's say a woollen coat when it gets wet from rain. And like Daniele said, the woolfelt also has a different hand than furfelt.