How boxy is too boxy?

[Quetzal]

I'm in the market for a sack-cut sport coat or suit, but, as the thread states, how boxy of a fit is too boxy of a fit for the sack cut? In other words, how should the sack cut properly fit? As I'm currently a slim guy (17" coat shoulders will work for me on a 36S-37S chest, but with a 27" natural-rise trouser waist), pictures would definitely help.

-Quetzal

 

[herringbonekid]

i would try some boxy sports coats on at your local vintage store and see which shape you feel comfortable in.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Yes, it's a decision of personal taste. Impossible to say from afar.

 

[Claudio]

I would get shoulder that fit properly, that do not over run your natural shoulder line (or not excessively). Make sure the sleeve legnth is right, leaving a bit of cuff is essential regardelss. If its a sack suit your are looking for make sure it doesnt have darts as that would be more 'natural'. So make sure you are buying a jacket/coat that is natually 'a sack' and not just a large fitting jacket - knowwhattamean?

 

[Edward]

I'd back up everything Claudio says, especially that last point: you're looking for a jacket that is your size with a boxy cut, not a jacket that is too large for you. Correct fit at the shoulders is the place to start.

 

[Quetzal]

Hmm, I guess all of you are saying a sack cut should fit like a darted coat, just straight, no tailoring, like a casual flat-hemmed shirt meant to be worn untucked (Guayabera, Aloha, typical Pendletons, pre-1980s "sport casuals"...). This is what I thought, but I think that I'll need to look at some pictures.

-Quetzal

 

[Rabbit]

Quetzal, perhaps you could further specify by adding some photos or catalogue scans?
You are referring to the sack suit of the turn of the century, aren't you? Some threads for reference:

Turn of the Century Sack Suit

Suits - Pre 1920

Sack suits can fit straight at the waist or flared. Not sure if it can still be a sack cut when the waist is suppressed.

 

[Quetzal]

Those are great links that you've provided Rabbit, but I'm looking for something more modern, more like (I dislike this terminology) an "Ivy League" or "Campus"- style sack coat, but not necessarily with a the typical Fasten-3 Roll-1 button closure. I occasionally find some at thrift stores, however I'm not sure what the proper fit should look and feel like, as the shoulders usually fit but the rest of it feels somewhat roomy, causing me to pass.

-Quetzal

 

[Rabbit]

You mean 50s boxy cut? I've never really understood the Ivy League thing and the Prep stuff that followed, or what "belongs" there and what doesn't. The often-cited Japanese book Take Ivy, for instance, apparently doesn't really capture that "look".

If you're looking for a rule of thumb (and it isn't more than that):
A chest fit of 5 inches above the actual body chest measurement is about the upper limit. Beyond that it doesn't look like a roomy cut anymore, it simply looks too large by any standard. Already at 5" extra, the V closure of the lapels moves about irritatingly. That's of course merely been my own experience.
A chest fit of 2.5" or 3" above the body chest measurement is about the norm for a well-fitted cut. Example: 37" chest needs 39.5"-40" garment chest measurement. However, there is some leeway for a tighter fit, so the garment could be a little smaller still.

You could develop your own theory about the proper waist fit from there. For instance, a straight cut on a "normal chest fit" as described above would already look very roomy on someone with a flat stomach.

Considering that the original Ivy League look (whatever it constituted exactly) was worn by young men in mostly good shape, I'd speculate that you're save with a well-fitted shoulder and chest (only 2.5" or 3" extra on the garment measurement of the chest) and minimal waist supression.

To put my experience in the right perspective, I'm 37"/30" chest/waist body measurement and I can't wear boxy 50s cuts. On the other hand, the turn of the century and early 20s century sack suits would work for me; the whole construction is entirely different from the mid century boxy cut.

 

[herringbonekid]

I occasionally find some at thrift stores, however I'm not sure what the proper fit should look and feel like, as the shoulders usually fit but the rest of it feels somewhat roomy, causing me to pass.

exactly why you shouldn't worry about what authorities say is a 'correct' fit and should trust your own judgement on what works with your physique.

you might find that (discounted) Ralph Lauren is what you're after as an updated Ivy League sack style is one of their staples:

http://www.ivy-style.com/ivy-trendwatch-ralph-laurens-updated-sack-suit.html

 

[Rabbit]

exactly why you shouldn't worry about what authorities say is a 'correct' fit and should trust your own judgement on what works with your physique.

+1