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Messages
18,940
Location
Central California
Stetson Standard Quality Featherweight derby.
The felt is perfect and free of dents. The ribbon is likewise in excellent the condition. The sweatband seems to be solid, but the thread is finished and it will need to be re-sewn.

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Not much can be made out on the tags.
 

Just Daniel

One Too Many
Messages
1,449
I think derbies can really sneak up you. I like them a lot more now than I used too.


Stetson Standard Quality Featherweight derby.
The felt is perfect and free of dents. The ribbon is likewise in excellent the condition. The sweatband seems to be solid, but the thread is finished and it will need to be re-sewn.

View attachment 336639 View attachment 336640 View attachment 336641 View attachment 336642 View attachment 336643 View attachment 336644 View attachment 336645 View attachment 336646 View attachment 336647 View attachment 336648

Not much can be made out on the tags.
 
Messages
10,951
Stetson Standard Quality Featherweight derby.
The felt is perfect and free of dents. The ribbon is likewise in excellent the condition. The sweatband seems to be solid, but the thread is finished and it will need to be re-sewn.

View attachment 336639 View attachment 336640 View attachment 336641 View attachment 336642 View attachment 336643 View attachment 336644 View attachment 336645 View attachment 336646 View attachment 336647 View attachment 336648

Not much can be made out on the tags.
Really nice Brent!
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,666
Location
Central Texas
Standard...but excellent, Brent!

Stetson Standard Quality Featherweight derby.
The felt is perfect and free of dents. The ribbon is likewise in excellent the condition. The sweatband seems to be solid, but the thread is finished and it will need to be re-sewn.

View attachment 336639 View attachment 336640 View attachment 336641 View attachment 336642 View attachment 336643 View attachment 336644 View attachment 336645 View attachment 336646 View attachment 336647 View attachment 336648

Not much can be made out on the tags.
 
Messages
17,901
Location
Nederland
Another hat Panos discovered and I "secured" for him:
Black "Colonia" (= Köln City) made of a lovely wool felt with back bow
The size is a 54 (hope it fits you, Panos); brim 6.0 cm, crown 10.0 cm (dent)
Certainly pre-war - I guess mid/late 30s - but that's just a guess, so please comment.
On the brand I have found nothing so far exept:
The paper label (the only one) is the same as on a J.A.Seidl on Steve's site...
https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/244-hutfabrik-j-a-seidl-münchen/

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Sometimes it's worth taking a gamble. I've seen a label like that before but I can't remember on which hat right now.
 
Messages
17,901
Location
Nederland
Chase and Company Derby
About 5 inch crown
Dimensional D'orsay Curl Brim
About 2 inch front 1 3/4 sides to curl (2 1/2 total)
1 inch grosgrain ribbon with frayed bow trail

This bowler was a brand I have not heard of before... but since I recently got an old beat up Mallory that had a lot of let’s call it character with all its frayed bindings and such I thought it would be nice to have an old bowler with a nice tight d'orsay curl brim. This Chase and co of New Haven, CT for just twenty bucks shipped rang the bell perfectly. The hat over all is in pretty nice shape. One pin hole moth divot in the top of the crown along with a couple small soft spots. A few popped stitches on the sweat.. but otherwise fairly clean. The sweat is soft malleable and very comfortable. I have no idea on dating this... other than to say it looks at least 50s or older. Right out the box it’s accompanying me for... well whatever tonight is bringing.

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Very cool find, Joe. Looks good on you.
 
Messages
17,901
Location
Nederland
Every now and then I like some hats more than others and so I try hard to get them, despite the fact that I have greatly reduced purchases.
This weekend I will introduce some of them.
View attachment 336449
Vanzina - Pavia - Qualità Extra. The size is 59 or 7 3/8 US
View attachment 336450
What attracted me was the color and finish of the felt and the heathered felt
View attachment 336451
The color is "Mogano" and the finish is in a short, quite shaggy, pile.
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These are the measures: brim at 5.5 centimeters; low point crown 11cm. and the ribbon is high 3.5 cm.
The hat is unlined with only the brand and type in a dedicated patch, you can see even better the back of the felt finish
View attachment 336453
The texture is massive and shapes well with a minimum of steam. The form and measures are those of the Italian hats of the sixties.
View attachment 336454
Now comes the question about the Vanzina production: was it done, as it would seem before 1956, the year of the merger with Borsalino or after? One of the little mysteries of Italian headwear
Nice find, Daniele. Looks like a wonderful heather felt.

I am very sorry for this hat, I wish it had the right size for me, instead it will make some other loungers happy.
View attachment 336496
It has two characteristics that I really like: the color of the felt, a very deep blue and the pleated ribbon in the same color.
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Barbisio Qualità Extra French size 4 1/2 French which is equivalent to a 56cm. so a 6 7/8 US
View attachment 336498
This blue color is called "Doria" where ita was made: in the historic factory of Sagliano Micca
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The shape and finish is a classic example of Barbisio quality.
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Here are the measurements of this elegant hat: brim at 6 centimeters, crown at low point 10.5 cm., pleated ribbon is 4 cm.
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Let's talk about the felt that is solid and absolutely moldable.
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A Barbisio at its best!
Barbisio shark gill bows: nothing like them. Very nice.

Let's finish the trio of Italian hats with a classic.
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Borsalino Trionfo French size 5 1/2 therefore a 58 cm. or 7 1/4 US
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The reason I bought this hat out of my size (pay attention loungers who wear hats of this size:)) is the color and finish of the felt.
I liked the combination of the color called "Ghiaccio" and the ribbon called "Marina" in a deep blue.
View attachment 336578
The felt is soft and finished with a short, supple pile. The hat, as can be seen from the paper label, is not very old, but finished with the characteristics of its predecessors.
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Ribbon inside the sweatband and very high accuracy with high end materials
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The dimensions are classic of that period (Seventies) of Borsalino production: brim 5.5 cm, low point crown 10.5 cm. and 4 cm. high ribbon.
View attachment 336582
A high quality model that Borsalino has always produced, even in very recent years
Classic and gorgeous. Doesn't get much better than that. Nice find, Daniele.
 
Messages
17,901
Location
Nederland
Stetson Standard Quality Featherweight derby.
The felt is perfect and free of dents. The ribbon is likewise in excellent the condition. The sweatband seems to be solid, but the thread is finished and it will need to be re-sewn.

View attachment 336639 View attachment 336640 View attachment 336641 View attachment 336642 View attachment 336643 View attachment 336644 View attachment 336645 View attachment 336646 View attachment 336647 View attachment 336648

Not much can be made out on the tags.
Fantastic find, Brent. Sometimes these older threads just deteriorate, even without the hat being worn.
 
Messages
18,940
Location
Central California
Modern Hückel:

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This hat arrived with extensive moth damage and needed to be reblocked. I sent it to Wolfbrae and Robert @belfastboy worked his magic. The felt is very soft and seems not to have any stiffeners in it at all...it’s also fairly low density felt.

The crown is lower than I prefer and it has more taper than I’d like, but it’s a very nice hat all the same. Not sure it’s going to make the cut as I thin the herd, but I do love the felt.
 

WonkyBloke

One of the Regulars
Messages
112
Location
UK
First fur felt!

IMG_20210527_121257.jpg

IMG_20210527_121245_edit_edit.jpg

The colour is a little darker than shown in this photo. Overall, it doesn't look bad, but I'm not particularly enthused by it. For a start, it has a leatherette sweatband, which offers zero grip on my long hair, and it rides up off the bump at the back of the head way too easily. Couple that with the light weight, and it's likely to have left my head before I get to the end of the street. Maybe if I sew some cloth/elastic(?) on top of the leatherette, it might change my mind a little.

Sweatband aside, I'm not particularly ecstatic about the felt either. I was told if I get a fur, I'll never look back. I now have a fur, and frankly I can't see what the fuss is about. I will have a play around with the sweatband, but so far I think my future hats will likely be more wool, cotton, and leather. I might still get a Christy Foldaway, but I really don't think this is the start of a collection or fanaticism.
 

WonkyBloke

One of the Regulars
Messages
112
Location
UK
^^^
I tucked bit of leather offcut under the back of the sweatband to snug it up a bit, and went shopping. It felt comfortable, but not particularly secure. I'll try again, folding the leather a little differently, to try and get a little extra purchase.

I think one factor, and potentially a reason why safari hats work so well for me, is the bump on the back of my head seems quite low. Safari hats seem to hug that area, as they do sit lower at the rear, whereas other hats might not. As such, I can't get a fedora to sit low at the front, without it either riding up off the lump at the back, or sitting down on my ears.

Maybe this is all part of the settling in phase, and seeing what hats work for me and what don't, and why.
 

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