Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Matt Jones, Aug 30, 2005.

  1. busstonedfx

    busstonedfx New in Town

    Messages:
    45
    it's for sure addicting,. I went from not knowing anything, to borderline obsessed, seeking specific years in a coat that wouldn't even fit me at the moment lol

    eBay is pretty good about protecting buyers recently... makes it more likely to buy the coat "just to see" with no risk of returns, but with that, I risk wanting to just keep it, and then a coat collection will begin..

    it seems 34r is a lot more common and because of that, i find myself more and more wanting to find a 34r kersey in better condition than the one I have now...and with the dmg I feel like that seller took me, too, with the deceptive photos (a small moth hole in the back, damaged lining).... I have the opportunity for a full refund to spend that cash on a mint 32r or 34r... but at the moment I find myself getting attached to it while waiting for the 32r's, just because of the pristine 62' tag on the 34r seems pretty rare....

    when maybe I shouldn't because the rest of the coat is damaged (and is too big for me), and in a common size that I could get almost mint (probably not 62') for a cheaper price...

    I just need to find that ONE coat, in the PERFECT size, and a special year... that is in good condition (someone's name written on the tag seems to be a glaring imperfection for me, or else I think that postwar 45' in a 32r that's on the way would cure my budding addiction) and I can stop going on eBay

    I'm scared of asking the question, because then I'm gonna find myself looking for something I don't even know exists at the moment.......
    but....

    why the '58?

    just read on the dating guide that 49' is the nicest finish that Peacoat has ever seen... what's so special about the year 58? is it because it says "US Navy" explicitly? That's why I'm hesitating to return this 62....
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2020
  2. Peacoat

    Peacoat Bartender Bartender

    Messages:
    5,095
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    The finish on the 1949 coats is the nicest of any the years. I first noticed it about 10 years ago, and made mention of it. Over the years others noticed it as well and agreed with me.

    I initially thought 1958 might be the first year of the "US NAVY" tag, but later determined it was probably 1956. The "US NAVY" tag is my favorite of all of them. It was also one of, and maybe the, longest running tag. But @Spoonbelly will have to answer the question of why he wants a coat of that year.

    Somewhere in this thread we discussed the first year for the US NAVY label. I need to track it down, get a definitive date and then change the date in the Dating thread. Right now it says, "In 1958 (or perhaps a year or two earlier) the style changed to simply 'US Navy,' which was in use until 1965."
     
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  3. busstonedfx

    busstonedfx New in Town

    Messages:
    45
    can anyone confirm that this is a 66' tag?:0
     

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    Last edited: Mar 23, 2020
  4. Peacoat

    Peacoat Bartender Bartender

    Messages:
    5,095
    Location:
    South of Nashville
  5. busstonedfx

    busstonedfx New in Town

    Messages:
    45
    Thank you Mr. P
     
  6. Peacoat

    Peacoat Bartender Bartender

    Messages:
    5,095
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    Thank you, but I already have a 1949 in a size 42. Plus, I could delete the link, or the post, myself if I wanted. Wouldn't do that as it would be unethical for me to use my bartender powers to limit access to an item for my personal gain. But thank you for thinking of me. PC
     
    Cornelius likes this.
  7. Spoonbelly

    Spoonbelly One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    228
    Location:
    Dutchess Co. New York
    The 1949 coats have an exceptional, beautiful Kersey material. I would say very dense, thick and velvetlike. I bought one for my wife but she wasn't interested in it at all ( go figure? ) so I wound up reselling it on eaBy. I currently have a WWII, and a 1950 or a 1951? Both are great Kerseys but still they are not a '49. As for the '58. I have a '58 in size 46(R). Once again I feel that 1958 is an exceptional year. The coat weighs a ton, probably heavier then my other coats which range from WWII - 1969. The sewing and detailing seems to be a higher quality then my other coats. As for the size. I prefer a Long over the R sizes
     
    Mawashi likes this.
  8. busstonedfx

    busstonedfx New in Town

    Messages:
    45
    your pick between the '49 and '58? just curious- if i see any of those in a 46l in my searches i'll let you know... I've been living on eBay

    so my 1980's melton in 32r arrived: https://imgur.com/a/f6mMGYI

    the 80's melton in 32r is too small (p2p: 17" shoulders 16.5", sleeves: 25" )... it feels TIGHT compared to the 62 kersey in 34r.... it doesn't fit me.... (and kersey is 1000% better, no question) gotta send this back...

    the 62' kersey in 34r is too big (p2p: 19", shoulders:18", sleeves: 26") .

    and what confuses me the most, is that an S civilian peacoat that fits me PERFECTLY measures : p2p: 21",shoulders, 17". sleeves: 26"....

    https://imgur.com/a/Jn1Dn0p (62' kersey in 34r on left, civilian S on right)

    1940's 34r's would be a tighter fight than a 60's 34r? .. I fear that the 45' in 32r will be also too small when it arrives.... the auction listed it as P2P: 16.5", shoulders: 17", sleeves: 24"

    @Peacoat do you have any insight on what size I should be seeking? Always too big, rather than too small, is what I was thinking... so I should be looking for only 34r, regardless of era, right? I'd NEVER fit in a 36....

    Or should I begin looking at getting something altered?.I hear shoulders are the WORST place to get alterations done... but if that kersey had 17" shoulders instead of 18" it would be PERFECT..but i'd rather not destroy a part of history if I can avoid it... the 45' Kersey will have 17" shoulders, but 16.5" p2p and 24" sleeves sounds small....

    What would you do? thank you, and sorry to keep bothering you..

    should I make a new thread? I don't wanna hijack the navypeacoat thread with individual sizing and altering questions...
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2020
  9. Cornelius

    Cornelius One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    233
    Location:
    Great Lakes
    Love all the info on this thread. Now I'll never settle until I find a 1949 in 40L, free of moth damage. My Grandpa's WWII-issue stopped fitting me somewhere around the 5th Grade - he was a CPO with the SeaBees in the South Pacific.
     
  10. Peacoat

    Peacoat Bartender Bartender

    Messages:
    5,095
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    Might be a long time finding that 1949 40 L. I don't think they made long sizes back then. I've never seen one, or heard of one. Although I will say one of our members found a long size in a 60s model, I think it was, shortly after I said they weren't made in long sizes during the 60s. Or it could have been a 70s model, I don't remember for sure. But the point is I had never seen one and thought they didn't exist. Then one popped up.

    @busstonedfx: I don't have much advice for you. Your experience defies all metrics known to man. What you could do is wear the civilian model until you grow into the '63 Kersey. Or get into custom leather jackets.

    No need to start a new thread. I could start one if I thought it was needed and then move the relevant posts there.
     
  11. Spoonbelly

    Spoonbelly One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    228
    Location:
    Dutchess Co. New York
    I could be wrong, but I also don't think they made Longs in '49 or '58. I don't know what year they started to make Longs, but I have two Kersey 1969 coats in 46Long. I remember a while back that someone said they thought Longs were started in 1962 as the 1962 tag states an R (regular) there might be a corresponding size for L(ong). I also believe that was an assumption as we have not seen any 1962 tags stating L(ong) Just another two cents - the Kersey on my '58 is comparable to the Kersey material on my other Kersey coats. I've also noticed something. I have my coats hanging next to each other in my "mothball closet". When comparing them to each other you can see very small differences between each coat as to very sleight shades of color and material texture.
     
  12. busstonedfx

    busstonedfx New in Town

    Messages:
    45
    So in case anyone who has been following my peacoat journey is curious:

    This 66' kersey I got today in 34 fits like a glove, a bit tighter than my liking... if I wear a sweater under it, or gain 5 pounds, it probably will feel too tight to be comfortable..but 100% gonna keep this for spring/autumn!

    This is the 66 (34r):
    https://imgur.com/a/X8cENwf

    18" p2p, 25" sleeves, 17" shoulders.. 1966 34r is exactly 1 inch shorter in every measurement than the 1962 34r (19" p2p, 26" sleeves, 18" shoulders)

    This is the 62 (34r):
    https://imgur.com/a/Euz3Bhw

    I sent back the 1962 34r last week.. part of me regrets it, part doesn't..
    The 62 seemed to have better, thicker wool. Can't directly compare, as I sent it back already, but just from memory, and feeling. Maybe it felt heavier because there was just more material because it was bigger..

    I hope someone else fixed that and enjoys it. it felt 2 sizes too big... i would have been fine with 1 size too big...
    If it was .5 inches smaller in every measurement, and not so damaged, it would have been my grail coat... and I'd be done searching..
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2020
    Cornelius likes this.
  13. busstonedfx

    busstonedfx New in Town

    Messages:
    45
    The 1945 in 32 arrived this morning:

    https://imgur.com/a/4PkNfNN

    It's tighter than the 66' 34r... the 1945 size 32 measures 17" p2p, 25.5" sleeves, 17" shoulders... I have difficulty buttoning it, and if it was buttoned, i wouldn't be able to give anyone a hug comfortably

    I don't need 2 "tight" peacoats... but I kinda have no choice but to keep it (seller didn't accept returns) and it's in damn near mint condition....

    Thanks all for the help... guess I'm not done w. eBay just yet like I'd hoped. Got 2 tight fitting coats, in slightly different sizes.... and still gonna search for one for "deep winter" (in a good year), one that I can freely move, and breathe, with a sweater/hoodie, and even a scarf under it... looking for something. that is a size between the 62' 34r and the 66' 34r...
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2020
    AbbaDatDeHat likes this.
  14. AbbaDatDeHat

    AbbaDatDeHat I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,062
    That one looks like your best fit to date to me. It certainly does not look tight across the back in your pics. I’d say you nailed the fit. Nothing like a peacoat that is form fitting. The proof is in how it feels. You will know immediately when it’s right.
    That one looks right to me. Imho
    Great coat.
    Ymmv
    B
     
    busstonedfx likes this.
  15. busstonedfx

    busstonedfx New in Town

    Messages:
    45
    thanks for the reply- i agree that it looks right, but i couldn't lift my arms or hug someone with it buttoned without feeling like i'm gonna break it.... definitely can't wear a thick sweater with it.... is this how it should be? with it unbuttoned.... it fits pretty nice

    there's a fine line between perfect, and too small..... one of those times i wish i could just walk into a store and try things on in front of a mirror....
    really i don't know what to do anymore, i wish i could keep them all.....

    now i am undecided.... again! lol... i didn't know I was so picky before i started shopping for these coats..

    Can anyone else help me decide? i keep bouncing between the 32 and 34.... everyone i ask is giving me a different opinion... i don't know what to do anymore lol

    i was a jeans/hoodie kid before this so i can't decide on my own hhahah

    the lighting makes the coats look diff colors, but they are identical, and the one on the right needs a dry cleaning...

    https://imgur.com/a/IHozX8r
    left or right? entertaining all opinions ;P
    reallllllly trying not to keep both- or maybe i should keep both and gtfo of eBay finally and stop chasing the peacoat dragon

    thank you all for your patience :) ...
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2020
  16. Richard Screech

    Richard Screech New in Town

    Messages:
    2
    From the photo of you with the 1945 32 peacoat buttoned up the collar doesn’t look quite right.

    Is it possible the buttons have been moved at some time ?

    A close look to both the outside and inside of the coat might show signs of where the buttons were originally fixed.

    Even if they haven’t if you were to move them yourself, something which can easily be done at home, it could well give the little more room you need to make it a better and more comfortable fit.
     
    busstonedfx and AbbaDatDeHat like this.
  17. busstonedfx

    busstonedfx New in Town

    Messages:
    45
    thank you for the reply-
    the collar just was laid wrong in the picture, it seems okay on a second inspection here- I don't believe the buttons were moved....

    I actually think the person I bought this coat from was a woman, and she wore the coat opening the other way, somewhat relaxing the way the lapel laid when I wore it "like a man"

    I think after a dry cleaning and pressing, it will lay perfect again

    I was thinking about going to the tailor with it when this quarantine is over, but wouldn't it be a sin to alter a 75 year old coat that's in mint condition :0 but yea... moving the buttons isn't a bad idea... how obvious do you think the holes would be, if I were to go this route?

    another reason to keep them both :0
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2020
  18. RDS

    RDS New in Town

    Messages:
    4
    Although not exactly found everyday there are still a considerable number of vintage peacoats in mint/excellent condition around, so I would say making any alterations for them to be worn is certainly more than acceptable.

    As the buttons are a good large size moving them an inch or so often means they actually cover the original position. Even if they are moved a little further a bit of gentle brushing and a damp cloth can cause the original holes to become not really noticeable.
     
    busstonedfx likes this.
  19. busstonedfx

    busstonedfx New in Town

    Messages:
    45
    thinking moving these buttons like 1/4 or 1/2 on each side would make this more comfortable, just worried it would mess w the way the jacket lays on a body... gonna see what a tailor says ! thank you for the reply
     
  20. Spoonbelly

    Spoonbelly One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    228
    Location:
    Dutchess Co. New York
    Moving the buttons a 1/4 - 1/2 inch is not much, and probably wouldn't be enough. Why not bring it to a decent tailor and see what they say?
     
    busstonedfx likes this.

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