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Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

Preppy Climber

New in Town
Messages
42
My 2 fantasy coats are

My 2 fantasy coats are a 1949 46 Long and a 1958 46 Long. Two beautiful coats. I can't imagine how heavy those 2 rascals would be. Plus the fact that I don't think we have determined whether Long sizes were even made way back then.
Do you know whether any of the US Navy peacoats came in short length?
 

spoonbelly1950

Familiar Face
Messages
60
Do you know whether any of the US Navy peacoats came in short length?
The same goes for short sizes.
Thank you! Out of curiosity, I weighed my WWII peacoat (size 34) and my vintage ('70s) Schott melton peacoat (boys size 16). They each weigh 4 lbs.
I never tried weighing any of my coats. Now you have me thinking.....
Do you know whether any of the US Navy peacoats came in short length?

Do you know whether any of the US Navy peacoats came in short length?
The same goes for short sizes in WWII and post war Kersey coats. I don't think we ever ascertained ( How do you like that 50 cent word? ) if or when short or long sizes were ever issued or even existed.
 

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,312
Location
South of Nashville
They’ve seemed very easy to tell apart. Also the Melton coats have a tag up between the shoulder blades that the Kersey coats don’t use. So you can at least narrow down a search if there are pictures on a hanger. Skip the visible tags and look into the rest.
Those tags are known as the DSCP tags. They started in about 1998. Of course, by then, Melton coats had been the standard issue coats for 18 years. Up until then most, but not all, of the contracts had been for the Kersey shell.

The first Melton coats, that I am aware of, had a contract date of 1973. After that it was intermittent until 1980 when the Kersey shell coats were, unfortunately, eliminated.
 

Peacoat

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Bartender
Messages
6,312
Location
South of Nashville
Do you know whether any of the US Navy peacoats came in short length?
The short answer to your specific question is, "Yes." I used to have an idea of the approximate year they started that type of sizing, but that bit of information has now found its way out of my knowledge base. I may have written it down somewhere, but that does me no good, as I have no idea where it would be.
 

Preppy Climber

New in Town
Messages
42
I never tried weighing any of my coats. Now you have me thinking.....



The same goes for short sizes in WWII and post war Kersey coats. I don't think we ever ascertained ( How do you like that 50 cent word? ) if or when short or long sizes were ever issued or even existed.
Thank you!

Ascertained is a good concise word!
 

Preppy Climber

New in Town
Messages
42
The short answer to your specific question is, "Yes." I used to have an idea of the approximate year they started that type of sizing, but that bit of information has now found its way out of my knowledge base. I may have written it down somewhere, but that does me no good, as I have no idea where it would be.
Thank you!
 

Preppy Climber

New in Town
Messages
42
I never tried weighing any of my coats. Now you have me thinking.....



The same goes for short sizes in WWII and post war Kersey coats. I don't think we ever ascertained ( How do you like that 50 cent word? ) if or when short or long sizes were ever issued or even existed.
I just bought my second US Navy peacoat! So much for restraining myself! Another WWII one (with accompanying US Navy pants, 26"-27" waist), but this one is a size 32-- if the seller measured the the pit to pit correctly. He measured it at 17." My size 34 is 19." The 32 will provide a more fitted look and I can wear with a t-shirt or light sweater underneath.

The WWII size 32 is an eBay find, $100.76 out the door, and according to the seller in very good condition. Can't wait to receive it!
 
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VansonRider

One of the Regulars
Messages
220
I just bought my second US Navy peacoat! So much for restraining myself! Another WWII one (with accompanying US Navy pants, 26"-27" waist), but this one is a size 32-- if the seller measured the the pit to pit correctly. He measured it at 17." My size 34 is 19." The 32 will provide a more fitted look and I can wear with a t-shirt or light sweater underneath.

The WWII size 32 is an eBay find, $100.76 out the door, and according to the seller in very good condition. Can't wait to receive it!
Be aware that you can move buttons (not a lot, maybe an inch or so absolute max) to fine tune the fit.

My method is to button the collar, lay the double breasted overlap where it looks and feels right, then use a piece of chalk to mark where the button holes are, and move the buttons to the chalk marks.

Make sure the chalk marks are on the outermost point of the button slot, since the button shaft will pull up against that point when the coat is worn.

Doing this small (and non permanent adjustment) means you can get a more fitted shape by drawing in the waist while leaving the button across the chest in place. Or going in the opposite direction and letting out the belly area a little, if that’s needed.

You can’t change the size, but a small adjustment in button placement can really nail a tidy fitted look.
 

Preppy Climber

New in Town
Messages
42
Be aware that you can move buttons (not a lot, maybe an inch or so absolute max) to fine tune the fit.

My method is to button the collar, lay the double breasted overlap where it looks and feels right, then use a piece of chalk to mark where the button holes are, and move the buttons to the chalk marks.

Make sure the chalk marks are on the outermost point of the button slot, since the button shaft will pull up against that point when the coat is worn.

Doing this small (and non permanent adjustment) means you can get a more fitted shape by drawing in the waist while leaving the button across the chest in place. Or going in the opposite direction and letting out the belly area a little, if that’s needed.

You can’t change the size, but a small adjustment in button placement can really nail a tidy fitted look.
@VansonRider, thank you for this excellent piece of advice and for the instructions! ! I suspect, if anything, the smaller WWII peacoat will be a tad snug. If so, moving the buttons is a great solution! I should experiment with my roomier size 34. I've no doubt moving the buttons will provide a more fitted look!
 
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Peacoat

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Bartender
Messages
6,312
Location
South of Nashville
@VansonRider, thank you for this excellent piece of advice and for the instructions! ! I suspect, if anything, the smaller WWII peacoat will be a tad snug. If so, moving the buttons is a great solution! I should experiment with my roomier size 34. I'v no doubt moving the buttons will provide a more fitted look!
I had forgotten about the "move the buttons" method. Excellent advice from VansonRider. I don't think your coat will be tight, though. It should be a good fit, even without a sweater, which you don't need where you live.
 

Preppy Climber

New in Town
Messages
42
I had forgotten about the "move the buttons" method. Excellent advice from VansonRider. I don't think your coat will be tight, though. It should be a good fit, even without a sweater, which you don't need where you live.
Thank you, Peacoat! I'll post a photo after I receive the coat and get the sleeves and overall length shortened. I understand it is ideal not to tailor these historical pieces, but if I want to wear them and look decent doing so, I have no choice.
 

spoonbelly1950

Familiar Face
Messages
60
I just bought my second US Navy peacoat! So much for restraining myself! Another WWII one (with accompanying US Navy pants, 26"-27" waist), but this one is a size 32-- if the seller measured the the pit to pit correctly. He measured it at 17." My size 34 is 19." The 32 will provide a more fitted look and I can wear with a t-shirt or light sweater underneath.

The WWII size 32 is an eBay find, $100.76 out the door, and according to the seller in very good condition. Can't wait to receive it!
Those U. S. Navy 13 button Kersey bell bottomed ( or maybe" stove pipes " ) sailor pants are BEAUTIFUL. I have 2 pair of Melton and 1 pair of Kersey. I was very lucky as the Kersey was brand new, and supposed to be a 1962. I'm sure these will be the nicest pants I will ever have. Wish I had more occasions to wear them.
 

Preppy Climber

New in Town
Messages
42
Those U. S. Navy 13 button Kersey bell bottomed ( or maybe" stove pipes " ) sailor pants are BEAUTIFUL. I have 2 pair of Melton and 1 pair of Kersey. I was very lucky as the Kersey was brand new, and supposed to be a 1962. I'm sure these will be the nicest pants I will ever have. Wish I had more occasions to wear them.
This is the link to the WWII peacoat and sailor pants that I purchased (shows photos of the pants). The pants might be about an inch too tight in the waist. If so, I hope my tailor will be able to let out material if there is any to be let out.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204269032065
 

Preppy Climber

New in Town
Messages
42
The
I measured a few of my peacoats :
WWII - 4 1/4 "
1952? - 3 1/4"
1953 - 3"
1958 - 3"
1965 - 3 1/2
All of these coats are size 46. I guess the collar heights do vary - surprising! I do have a few more coats that I could measure.

I measured a few of my peacoats :
WWII - 4 1/4 "
1952? - 3 1/4"
1953 - 3"
1958 - 3"
1965 - 3 1/2
All of these coats are size 46. I guess the collar heights do vary - surprising! I do have a few more coats that I could measure.
The collar on my WWII era peacoat looks huge, especially when popped up, on the back of my lemon head. Dracula like!
 

Preppy Climber

New in Town
Messages
42
Most collars on post war dark blue Kersey coats are approx. 2 1/2 - 2 3/4 - 3 inches high (wide). My WWII coat is 4 inches and also has the throat/chin strap under the collar. My 2 black Melton coats are 2 1/2 and 2 3/4. The WWII coats are very warm when the throat latch is buttoned.
I love the throat latch feature on my WWII era peacoat! Not sure I'll ever use it here in Surf City USA, but it sure is cool looking.
 

Preppy Climber

New in Town
Messages
42
Her response: "Oh, I didn't know what year, I just knew it looked old." That's the mentality of the ebay seller.
I recently ran across a US Navy peacoat with the title, "Very Old U S Navy Issued Dark Navy “pea” coat size 34 R - Heavy 100% wool coat." The description reads "This one may be older then others I have seen online, based on the tag style. You decide the age." Reading this informative (and fun!) thread (still plowing away) and Peacoat's Guide to Dating the US Navy Peacoat, I was able to determine the size 34 coat to be 1962 given the tag info. And to think a few weeks ago I knew absolutely NOTHING about US Navy Peacoats! You guys got me hooked! Now on to page 83 of this thread....
 

spoonbelly1950

Familiar Face
Messages
60
The short answer to your specific question is, "Yes." I used to have an idea of the approximate year they started that type of sizing, but that bit of information has now found its way out of my knowledge base. I may have written it down somewhere, but that does me no good, as I have no idea where it would be.
I'm not sure but somebody on the board here mentioned 1962 as the possible first year for Long sizes as it was printed ' -62-L " on the contract number on the inside pocket of a Kersey coat.
 

spoonbelly1950

Familiar Face
Messages
60
I recently ran across a US Navy peacoat with the title, "Very Old U S Navy Issued Dark Navy “pea” coat size 34 R - Heavy 100% wool coat." The description reads "This one may be older then others I have seen online, based on the tag style. You decide the age." Reading this informative (and fun!) thread (still plowing away) and Peacoat's Guide to Dating the US Navy Peacoat, I was able to determine the size 34 coat to be 1962 given the tag info. And to think a few weeks ago I knew absolutely NOTHING about US Navy Peacoats! You guys got me hooked! Now on to page 83 of this thread....
I remember when I couldn't wait for a coat to be delivered to my front door. " I am now a reformed peacoat buyer. I must control that destructive behavior and make sure I have the car payment and mortgage money ( of which I have neither" .
I'm not sure but somebody on the board here mentioned 1962 as the possible first year for Long sizes as it was printed ' -62-L " on the contract number on the inside pocket of a Kersey coat.
I forgot who it was, but it was one of the regulars. That was a few years ago.
 

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