Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Lady Day]

I have officially started my FASH10 Clothing Construction 1 class at Mt. SAC. Woo Hoo!! :eusa_clap

Yay!
Goooooooooooooooooooooooooo! Team! Oh, wait. Gooooooo JJ!

LD

 

[humblestumble]

If the shirt is just slightly too small and you need bigger armholes, try drawing a line from the armhole to the hem and open it the whole way (don't forget to do the front AND the back!). You could maybe get away with opening it as much as 3/4"? Your total armhole increase would be 1.5", and the total garment increase would be 3". When you spread, don't pivot, but open it the same amount from top to bottom (no bell). You'll have to change the sleeve, too; in my example you have to add 1.5" to the sleeve cap. AACK! Sounds complicated! Your guy is lucky, that you're so determined!

No, it's not slightly too small, it's pretty much hugging him... just as a sloper fits us ladies (with no walking ease, or ease at all really). The shoulder part is fine on him, but everything else seems way off. About 6 inches, because this is supposed to be a bowling shirt, or an aloha shirt - whatever he decides he wants me to make in the end. Or whatever he wants. After I get done with it, I really want to make him more. He even wants to learn how to sew. I just started teaching him.

Thanks muchly for the information you've given me. No worries, I understand what you are saying. Although I haven't sewn much, I've read a lot. I just haven't put all of my knowledge to good use, but that's because I want to learn everything I can before I really get down to the nitty gritty.

I'm also going to write Threads Magazine and hope that they include info on altering armhole and ease in their upcoming issues.

I feel like I have to give back to my boyfriend. He's done so much for me and has supported me through thick and thin. He's also been so kind as to supply me with most of my crafty supplies (and has been with me since the beginning - very enthusiastically!). And for all the hell I put him through ( which really isn't much ) and the fact that I don't have a lot of money really makes me want to do this for him. I also feel for him that he can't find any shirt that seriously fits him well. Not only that, but he loves the 50s style too, and I'd like to incorporate that into both our wardrobes.

My biggest deal now is really wanting to know how to add ease without compromising the fit of the garment due to where the shoulder seam end is supposed to sit. As of right now, it sits in the correct place, but I'm afraid that if I increase by slashing and spreading the pattern all the way through it, that I am going to end up with a shoulder seam that extends onto his bicep.

I can't wait til I get past all this! Fitting and adjusting is so frustrating, and it just seems like it should be so easy with a simple, loose fitting shirt.

 

[RaasAlHayya]

HumbleStumble wrote:

"Have not tried it, but I have heard rave reviews from a friend who has tested a ton of patternmaking software, and she swears by Wild Ginger. I have the free program and have printed something out, but have not made anything. I've heard it is marvelous. My friend says it's the best out there."

Earlier this year, I had to replace my computer and didn't bother downloading the software again until recently when I had time to start sewing again. Then I realized I had lost my activation key. Karen at Wild Ginger sent me another one so I wouldn't have to pay the $190 again. I appreciated that, and will recommend them for their customer service.

Now I need to get my husband to help me take my measurements again. :eusa_doh:

--Leslie

 

[Snookie]

humblestumble, you're very sweet!

Now, down to the nitty gritty. I'm not as familiar with 50's shirts, but I think it's okay to have the shoulder seam extend past the shoulder, especially for a casual shirt. And if you open it, you can add those extra inches. Does he have a good shirt similar in style? Have him try it on for a fresh visual of how it looks, then measure the shirt. Figure out how long the shoulder is on the good shirt, measure the armhole to get the circumference, etc.

If the pattern you have is already hanging past his shoulder, but the rest is too tight, maybe you should slash-n-spread that bell shape.

 

[humblestumble]

humblestumble, you're very sweet!

Now, down to the nitty gritty. I'm not as familiar with 50's shirts, but I think it's okay to have the shoulder seam extend past the shoulder, especially for a casual shirt. And if you open it, you can add those extra inches. Does he have a good shirt similar in style? Have him try it on for a fresh visual of how it looks, then measure the shirt. Figure out how long the shoulder is on the good shirt, measure the armhole to get the circumference, etc.

If the pattern you have is already hanging past his shoulder, but the rest is too tight, maybe you should slash-n-spread that bell shape.

Thanks

I actually really love the 40s as well as the 50s, but my boyfriend really leans towards the 50s. I personally prefer the more tailored look of the 40s, but hey, I'm just glad he likes more of the 50s now instead of the 80s (he was really into hair metal - I don't care so much for that, haha)

Anyway, I think you are right. The shoulder seam does extend a little bit past his shoulder, just like on the pattern envelope. I guess I could always try and slash and spread anyway - it is supposed to be the practice garment... I'm just so scared of failure without hands on help.

He doesn't actually have a shirt in a similar style to this one, but he does have some button downs that fit him alright, but they still don't fit him REALLY well. I know somewhat how to make a pattern from ready made clothes too, so I may try measuring its seams and such. Especially the size of those armholes.

I also posted several other places on the internet to get different views on the issues - I'm waiting on feedback now. I also wrote to Threads magazine so that maybe they will answer my question. *cross fingers* And once I get a bit more money I may take an online class or two on making my own patterns and fitting readymade patterns.

Thanks again for your help, and your fast response! Means a lot

RaasAlHayya, sounds like they have great customer service! I'll send you a link of something Rostitchery made with WildGinger - I think it's quite amazing. http://rowena.typepad.com/rostitchery/2006/07/yes_i_did_it.html

 

[RaasAlHayya]

HumbleStumble wrote:

"RaasAlHayya, sounds like they have great customer service! I'll send you a link of something Rostitchery made with WildGinger - I think it's quite amazing. http://rowena.typepad.com/rostitcher..._i_did_it.html"

That's wonderful...and the dress is really cute! Now I want to make dresses for all my squeeze bottles.

--Leslie

 

[glamgirl]

Thanks Colleen! Thanks decodoll, I guess I should clean my machine since other than dusting it I really don't do anything inside.

Neecerie, I found this: http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00002.asp

and was going to do it but you know, it's on the to do list.

Rosie, that's an excellent thread. Thanks for adding it (I've only just come across it as am very new to the board). That's one of my biggest problems when sewing for myself and now you've given us all the perfect answer. Thanks again:eusa_clap

 

[BettyValentine]

Eek. I could totally just keel over and die. I got a Wolf form in exactly my size for $100 off of craigslist. I was going to get it re-covered, but it turns out it doesn't need it.

I've noticed a lot of dress forms on the New York craigslist -- on average it seems that a new form is posted daily, I just got lucky and the right size came up -- but there are some on craigslist for other places too.


BV

 

[Lauren]

QUICK! Buy it!!!

 

[BettyValentine]

QUICK! Buy it!!!

I did! I did! ^_^ I found it a week ago and bit my tongue and told no one about it until it was safely in my living room. I didn't want to jinx it.

It is so much easier to make decisions with a dress form. I thought I was pretty good at visualizing things, but it is a lot easier to decide between trims and closures when you can just pin them up to look at them.

Phew. I *never* thought I'd get a wolf form. I quite liked my duct tape form (i found it vastly superior to the adjustable commercial dress forms) but the wolf is like a dream. It's even inspiring. I feel like I've been sewing a lot more since I've been looking at it in the corner. It calls to me in the middle of the night saying: "Sew. Sew."

BV - nothing if not melodramatic.

 

[Lauren]

I know! They're the best thing EVER! Just having one around does fuel creativity. As silly as it is, my heart gets warmed every time I see mine

What a steal! I can't believe you got one so inexpensively. Congrats!

 

[Rosie]

I did! I did! ^_^ I found it a week ago and bit my tongue and told no one about it until it was safely in my living room. I didn't want to jinx it.

It is so much easier to make decisions with a dress form. I thought I was pretty good at visualizing things, but it is a lot easier to decide between trims and closures when you can just pin them up to look at them.

Phew. I *never* thought I'd get a wolf form. I quite liked my duct tape form (i found it vastly superior to the adjustable commercial dress forms) but the wolf is like a dream. It's even inspiring. I feel like I've been sewing a lot more since I've been looking at it in the corner. It calls to me in the middle of the night saying: "Sew. Sew."

BV - nothing if not melodramatic.

Ha, you literally made me laugh out loud. Everyone on this floor will think I'm nuts. *all the new teachers* (It's that weird vintage wearing nut who laughs to herself at weird times throughout the day, better steer clear of her).lol

 

[Rosie]

So ladies, after seeing you all sew your little hearts away, I have been inspired to try my first coat. I'm going to do a '50s style swing coat and I've selected a very heavy sateen black with white polka dot fabric so basically, HELP!!!! Any and all tips will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Lady Day]

Swing coats are pretty easy. Jist make sure it lays flat in the front, and triangles out in the back at the shoulders. It is kind of like a circle skirt in the back (but not nearly that much circle), so make sure that your hem is good and even.

Good luck Rosie, and you better post pics wearing it

LD

 

[Rosie]

That's what I figured, kind of like the circle skirt in back part. I made a house dress not long ago using that method and figured I would start that way. My biggest fear are the sleeves, since I avoid them like the plague and the buttons. I'm terrified of buttons! I thought I might use hooks instead since they seem a bit less scary, unless I find some big gaudy white plastic rounded buttons then, I may have to try it out.

 

[BonnieJean]

I did! I did! ^_^ I found it a week ago and bit my tongue and told no one about it until it was safely in my living room. I didn't want to jinx it.

It is so much easier to make decisions with a dress form. I thought I was pretty good at visualizing things, but it is a lot easier to decide between trims and closures when you can just pin them up to look at them.

Phew. I *never* thought I'd get a wolf form. I quite liked my duct tape form (i found it vastly superior to the adjustable commercial dress forms) but the wolf is like a dream. It's even inspiring. I feel like I've been sewing a lot more since I've been looking at it in the corner. It calls to me in the middle of the night saying: "Sew. Sew."

OK, I was happy with my freebie Twinfit form, but now I want a Wolf!:cry: And I haven't even used my form yet. I guess its something to aspire to. Don't know if people around here even know what a Wolf form is. I had to describe my dress form when I was excited to get mine. Most people in the Midwest think a Wolf form is some type of half-breed 4-legged critter that howls in the night! Not of lot of serious sewers around here.
I'm happy for your great find!

 

[BettyValentine]

OK, I was happy with my freebie Twinfit form, but now I want a Wolf!:cry: And I haven't even used my form yet. I guess its something to aspire to. Don't know if people around here even know what a Wolf form is. I had to describe my dress form when I was excited to get mine. Most people in the Midwest think a Wolf form is some type of half-breed 4-legged critter that howls in the night! Not of lot of serious sewers around here.
I'm happy for your great find!

Thanks! I'm still really excited about it. ^_^

I've heard wonderful things about the Twinfit forms! One of my friends just got one from her husband and family as an anniversary present. She totally cried.

I'm told that the adjustable forms are really good for if you're sewing for other people of varying sizes and shapes. My friends swear by their Dritz My Double forms, and they're much more advanced sewers than I. I think I just got used to pinning on the Wolf & Global ones because I learned to sew in a costume shop.

BV- Also they look pretty standing in the corner. ^_^

 

[Rosie]

I need help!

I'm working on this dress:

You see the part where the breast meets the waist and the rest of the dress? I'm having a hard time getting that area to come together. I have the "shirt" part of the dress complete but, under the breast, where the darts are makes that area of the dress smaller than the waist area so, I'm having a hard time making the two meet without creating more darts in the "skirt" area. Should I have used a stretchier material? I'm very unhappy now.

 

[Lady Day]

Well it looks like their is a bodice/ empire waist cut thing going on there. Look at the blue dress I did earlier in the thread, its cut the same way. Via the pattern I used, that area under the bust is cupped like a spoon, then gathered. It is then attached to the waist cut and presto, boob coverage


LD

 

[Rosie]

Thanks LD! I *think* I understand what you are saying. I'll try pinning it first to see what happens.