Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[SayCici]

I wasn't sure where to ask this, but figured this would be the place.

What kind of dress or other pattern does linen really shine in? I have four yards of teal linen (or linen-look from JoAnns, whatever) that was meant for a summer outfit, but I know I'm not going to get around to it. I'll be moving early next year as well and I don't want to have to pack a bunch of fabric. SO I'd like to use it, but I want to pick something that will show off the drape and whatnot. Any suggestions?

 

[Medvssa]

There are many kinds of linen... maybe most importantly tell us its weight, and if it drapes well. You can perhaps take a picture? you can drape it over a dress form or something to see the drape. And if you plan to wash it at home, then wash it beforehand, it may change quite a bit.

 

[SayCici]

I think it is 55% linen/45% rayon, already washed and has a nice drape, but I think it will work for this pattern I bought yesterday (yeah, I tend to jump the gun a bit!):

I'll have two yards left over though!

 

[SweetieStarr]

1950s pencil skirt

I hope it is okay to post twice, as I posted this in the pattern swap thread.

Does anyone have a 1950s pencil skirt pattern (the sexy wiggle kind) that I may borrow or purchase? My potential new sewing teacher says this would be an easy pattern to start. I have a 29" waist and a 39" hip. I have searched online and cannot find a pattern to buy in my size.

Also, I would like to know what the best type of fabric to get for the skirt. My teacher said to get a cotton and (after my asking) said that a 1-way stretch would be okay so it would have some give when I sit.

Please let me know either in the thread of via PM.
Thanks!

 

[SayCici]

I'm not as experienced as other ladies here, SweetieStarr, but you are probably going to have to bend a little when it comes to dimensions. I found this (and this) on Etsy. Most sizes stay even in the waist, like 24" to 26" to 28", though you may be able to find a half-size pattern.

 

[SweetieStarr]

Would this be a good pattern?

Hi Ladies,

I want to achieve the look of these skirts:

I found the following pattern online:

The waist is one inch bigger, but the hip is the right measurement. My sewing teacher will be measuring me to make sure we get the right fit, so I am assuming we can just make the waist a bit smaller?

Would this be a good pattern for my pencil skirt?

I appreciate your help!

 

[SayCici]

It's a good pattern, but it's not going to be as clingy as your examples. It doesn't taper at the bottom so it's more of a straight or 'slim' skirt, instead of being a wiggle or pencil skirt. But for learning to sew, I think it's better to start off with this one than one where the proper fit may be hard to achieve.

 

[SweetieStarr]

It's a good pattern, but it's not going to be as clingy as your examples. It doesn't taper at the bottom so it's more of a straight or 'slim' skirt, instead of being a wiggle or pencil skirt. But for learning to sew, I think it's better to start off with this one than one where the proper fit may be hard to achieve.

Thank you, CiCi. Do you think it would be easier to taper it at the bottom to achieve more of the look I want? It doesn't seem like most of the pencil skirt patterns are of the wiggle variety and more of the slim variety.

 

[Lady Day]

There is more than likely some lycra content in those repo skirts you have shown, giving that tight but movable look. The fabric you use should have some or if not, cut the fabric on the bias, and Im sure your sewing teacher can explain that.

Super good luck!
LD

 

[Cinasue Lane]

WOW, there's a pattern swap thread on here, lol, will be going there very quickly.

I love this thread, lots of good ideas and advice. Can't wait to see the pencil skirts, how very sexy and fun they are.

 

[SweetieStarr]

There is more than likely some lycra content in those repo skirts you have shown, giving that tight but movable look. The fabric you use should have some or if not, cut the fabric on the bias, and Im sure your sewing teacher can explain that.

Super good luck!
LD

Thanks, LD! She said I could use a 1-way stretch fabric. So I should go with this pattern, or is there something better? I couldn't really find one exactly like the pics.

 

[Lauren]

I think you actually might have more luck with a modern pattern for achieving that look.
Here's a few that might help:
http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V8603.htm?search=high waist pencil skirt&page=1

http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/F2003.htm?search=skirt high waist&page=1

http://www.simplicity.com/p-2219-misses-pants-and-skirts.aspx

 

[SweetieStarr]

I think you actually might have more luck with a modern pattern for achieving that look.
Here's a few that might help:
http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V8603.htm?search=high waist pencil skirt&page=1

http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/F2003.htm?search=skirt high waist&page=1

http://www.simplicity.com/p-2219-misses-pants-and-skirts.aspx

Thank you, Lauren. Those patterns were very helpful. I also found this one:
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5590.htm that I think might work well.
I like the main skirt shown in blue and I'm sure just making it a bit shorter would not be a problem.

 

[Lauren]

That skirt looks perfect! I'd just taper it in a bit at the bottom, like the ladies above mentioned, and buy fabric with a bit of lycra or spandex in it. The way the gals are standing, too, makes the bottom look even slimmer than it actually is. Optical illusions!

 

[Gigi]

I know this question has probably been asked several times before, but forgive me for not wanting to go through the entire thread.

In general, where do you get your fabric? Do you buy new fabric that just has a vintage look or fits with your era of choice, or do you seek out authentic vintage fabric online? I normally just buy new fabric because I have a hard time finding the right vintage fabric for what I want to make. My problem is that I only have one good fabric store near me and other than plain colors, everything just seems so modern looking! I'd really like to get either new or authentic vintage fabric with some nice era-appropriate patterns on them, but where do I find this stuff?

 

[SayCici]

I generally buy new fabric that has a motif similar to what would have been used in the era I'm sewing from. I'd like to buy vintage fabric, but I have no place to get it locally, and you can't always find it online in the amount or condition you'll need, and then you have to add shipping..

Equilter has some nice repro fabrics. There's a thread on this somewhere I believe.

 

[SayCici]

Do you all ever change the seam allowance? The pattern I'm about to start says 1/2 inch, which I'm sure is enough but is 5/8 universally better or anything?

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

Do you all ever change the seam allowance? The pattern I'm about to start says 1/2 inch, which I'm sure is enough but is 5/8 universally better or anything?

1/2" is fine; I'm not sure why the standard changed to 5/8", but it's not necessarily better. Some would argue that it is, in fact, worse to have all that excess seam allowance to trim and press flat. Some things, like collars, are way easier to sew with 3/8" seam allowances.

I like the way some of my vintage patterns are set up: 1/2" allowances everywhere but the side seams, which are 3/4" to allow plenty of room for fitting.

 

[SayCici]

Another question.

The pattern I'm working on right now (above) has a ruffle along the neckline. The instructions (below) had me baste the strip around the neck, and THEN gather it. This results in the shoulders, etc. being gathered as well. I don't understand how to un-gather the bodice without un-gathering the ruffle, as this is how I understand the instructions.

Pictures:

2 - Ruffle. Fold strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Run a gathering thread 1/2" from raw edge tapering to folded edge at ends. Baste ruffle to neck edge on outside, placing tapered ends 1/2" in from raw edge at front; pull up gathers to fit.

Could someone explain this to me as if I were a 5 year old?

 

[Lauren]

I can see how this could be confusing! I think what they're trying to say is to baste the ruffle first, then baste the basted ruffle to the dress. So you'll have a gathered ruffle, then attach it. I'm guessing they are having you baste it on because you have a facing piece you will attach later and they want it not to move when it's sandwiched between the dress and ruffle
Your fabric is adorable, by the way!