Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

Discussion in 'Suits' started by Marc Chevalier, Feb 15, 2012.

  1. Dirk Wainscotting

    Dirk Wainscotting A-List Customer

    Messages:
    355
    Location:
    Irgendwo
    That's the very thing that would put me off. I like a bit of belly on the lapel, though you can't get much on high buttoning coats. So many years I was a three-button man, but now I just can't wear a three-button coat and to be honest they just don't suit me. Length and belly works much better with a peaked rever.
     
    Patrick Hall likes this.
  2. Mathematicus

    Mathematicus A-List Customer

    Messages:
    377
    Location:
    Coventry, UK
    I second your ideas - especially on high buttoning coats. But I like too much three-button coats that I can't abide two-buttons. My favourite style is a soft three-button which rolls to the second (but not completely, just partially), and with a lower stance, around the belly button.
    Pointless to note, these details are almost never found in ready made suits.
     
    Patrick Hall likes this.
  3. Patrick Hall

    Patrick Hall Practically Family

    Messages:
    541
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    I think the anti-belly can work with a single-breasted coat and a sufficiently broad lapel. I wonder whether it might especially flatter someone with a stocky build. Too much lapel can unpleasantly echo the expanse of flesh underneath. Though, in general I too prefer full-bodied lapels, especially on double-breasted coats.
     
  4. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,201
    Location:
    Germany
  5. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,201
    Location:
    Germany
    German 1930's bespoke tailored sportcoat in ca. Sz. US/UK 44/46.

    Actually an orphaned suit jacket with a beige-grey herringbone weave separated by very subtle, almost microscopic dark red needlestripes.
    So subtle that it works great as a sportcoat combined with grey or brown trousers.

    As you see I ironed out the sleeves to lengthen them to the max (70 cm).

    Perhaps something for the larger fellows here?

    20190612_100211-1.jpg
     
  6. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,201
    Location:
    Germany
    And a 1939 German 3 piece suit in medium grey herringbone in sz. US/UK 38.

    20190612_152041.jpg 20190612_152051.jpg 20190612_152207.jpg
     
  7. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt A-List Customer

    Messages:
    369
    Location:
    Germany
    Nice, Fastuni!
    Really like both...
    The sports coat I saw some years ago in the bay and wondered - so you catched it ;)
     
  8. the_imperialist

    the_imperialist One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    100
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Fantastic find Fastuni! Doesn't get any better than that grey 3 piece - you don't happen to be wanting to get rid of it by any chance? :p
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2019
  9. the_imperialist

    the_imperialist One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    100
    Location:
    New Zealand
    30s Sportsanzug - l love German beltback details.

    upload_2019-6-13_12-17-16.png
    upload_2019-6-13_12-17-35.png
     
  10. the_imperialist

    the_imperialist One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    100
    Location:
    New Zealand
    My more mundane suits:

    30s 4x2 three piece

    upload_2019-6-13_12-19-42.png

    30s double breasted 3 piece

    upload_2019-6-13_12-22-12.png

    30s SB 3 piece
    upload_2019-6-13_12-28-18.png
     
  11. Benny Holiday

    Benny Holiday My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,252
    Location:
    Sydney Australia
    Wayne you are the best-dressed gentleman in Auckland and possibly the entire Southern Hemisphere! Bravo!
     
    Mean Eyed Matt and Fastuni like this.
  12. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,201
    Location:
    Germany
    Matt is considering it. You'd be next in line. Did you have a chance yet to make the finishing touches to the German garments I sent you?

    You have a lovely collection and wear them very well.
     
  13. the_imperialist

    the_imperialist One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    100
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Ha, you flatter me Benny. There are plenty of stylish blokes in Aussie and rest of NZ. I just try to bring a but of European styling down under.

    Thanks Fastuni. I've been enjoying the trench in our wet winter. I've just got the sportscoat sorted, the suit will be this weekend. My fiancée operated the sewing machine for longer seams, but she has a few project on at the moment, so naturally I'm patiently waiting for my turn.

    Ah well too slow! That's a great suit, I'm sure Matt will love it.

    Hope you are both keeping well!
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2019
    Benny Holiday and Fastuni like this.
  14. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,201
    Location:
    Germany
    s-l1600(6).jpg

    1930's Alpine Trachten jackets made from sturdy grey Loden.

    The second one is by the famous Munich store "Loden-Frey" in Size 56 (US/UK 46).

    DSCN0813.JPG

    Small Trachten jacket made post-war from fieldgrey Wehrmacht
    coat:
    lode.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2019
  15. the_imperialist

    the_imperialist One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    100
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Just picked up another off of the ebay (just a simple black 4x2 2pc), soon to begin it's long journey down under. The internal griping belt is a feature that's always fascinated me - going through this thread I've always assumed this feature to be a good indicator of a 50s suit (I've another German suit with this feature) - was wondering if anyone knows of any detailed literature on this feature?
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 2, 2019
    Fastuni, Mean Eyed Matt and Michael A like this.
  16. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt A-List Customer

    Messages:
    369
    Location:
    Germany
    50s, yeah. But I don't have literature.
    I think Fastuni could help the most.
     
    the_imperialist likes this.
  17. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,201
    Location:
    Germany
    The "Rigepa" internal elastic belt is most frequently found on 50's trousers, but the patent dates back to the mid 1920's!
     
  18. the_imperialist

    the_imperialist One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    100
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Thanks for sharing Fastuni - I didn't know the providence on the "Rigepa" patent - I'll post more detailed photos once it arrives. I got it for 45 Euros, so even if 50s it'll be a nice addition to the office wardrobe.
     
  19. the_imperialist

    the_imperialist One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    100
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Picked this up. On its way in due time. I believe late 20s, seller told me its a summer weight flannel. Lovely navy with burgundy stripe.
     

    Attached Files:

    Mean Eyed Matt and Fastuni like this.
  20. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,201
    Location:
    Germany
    Great find! It is certainly ca. 1927-30. What an interesting color combination.

    The "bunny ear" suspender strap buttons are marked "HJ - DJ" (Hitlerjugend, Deutsche Jugend). Must have been a later replacement with some buttons that were at hand.

    The lapels would benefit from a gentle re-ironing to restore the "roll" towards the top buttonhole.
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.