Suit fit question

[s_crumb]

I've had 3 suits made by Magnoli. And I've been very pleased with them. However my last two suits have had an issue that bugs me. They both have a single horizontal "wrinkle" across the center of my back. Maybe 2 or 3 inches below the collar. I asked him about it before I ordered the 3rd suit. It still appeared. What would cause a problem like that? Could it be my shoulder measurement is too small. Maybe I need to add a 1/2" or 1" to the shoulder width of the jacket? Thanks guys.

 

[Tomasso]

You probably just need to have a tailor lower the collar...though there is the off chance that you need a larger jacket.

 

[dakotanorth]

Basically, it sounds like the shoulders are angled too much for your shoulders. The person making the suit assumes your shoulder slope a certain amount, but they are actually squarer than that.
There are a few solutions to this problem- as AC Lyles noted, they can lower the collar so it essentially squares off the shoulder slope more (in essence, flatten out the triangular shape that runs from one shoulder, to the center of your neck, and then out to the other shoulder.)
Sometimes it's possible to alleviate this problem by reducing or removing the shoulder pads; this *can* affect the shape of the jacket torso, as well as the angle of the sleeve. In short, it's a quick-fix with mixed results.

 

[s_crumb]

Interesting. Those both make sense to me. I never thought about the shape of the shoulders being an issue.

I can take this jacket to a tailor and see what he says. Though I won't hold my breath. I'm in the land of cheap tailors...not good tailors. More often than not they are only interested in selling you a $130 suit.

 

[dakotanorth]

Keep in mind, it depends on how high or low the wrinkles are.
If they run more across your shoulder blades, the jacket could simply be too small in the shoulders.
If the wrinkle is high, like base of the neck or upper back, then it tends to have more to do with the neck height and/or angle of the shoulders.
Try to see where they really hit, and also, if you put your arms out (forward, like you're driving a car) you can feel if the jacket pulls across the back a lot, versus the arms basically moving away from the body. (try on a jacket that's WAY too small, you'll feel it.)
Pictures will always help....