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The Flat Head vs The Real McCoy's: which jacket to choose?

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14,838
People don't consider jackets like this based on value, if you think there is a justification for the price other than exclusivity an rareness you are wrong. You pay because you like the way it makes you feel.

Literally this. It's what this is all about. We all often drone our elaborate justifications why buying one of our pricey jackets is worth it when it's really all about how it makes us feel and there's no denying it; Brands do matter and make us feel good - And vintage is a brand, too. Just the other kind of brand.

Maybe it really isn't worth paying that much money for one of these jackets, but buying something like this?

Although as far as I already know, SB is not respected by most of the users of this forum.

It's worth it if it's something you really want. You seemed set on one of these & I say go for it.

SB is a good maker. They make a nice, tough jacket that isn't really lagging behind either of the two makers you were originally interested in and honestly, at that price point, you're not really saving much by buying a SB instead of Toys or Head.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
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4,622
Maybe it really isn't worth paying that much money for one of these jackets, but buying something like this?

Although as far as I already know, SB is not respected by most of the users of this forum.
I think in terms of bang for buck, it doesn't get much better than Simmons bilt. Did you check their website?

Although as far as I already know, SB is not respected by most of the users of this forum.

Getting the sizing right with custom orders seems to be challenging. (I can't tell from first hand experience though, I never ordered from them)
 

Rgcards

A-List Customer
Messages
326
Maybe it really isn't worth paying that much money for one of these jackets, but buying something like this?

Although as far as I already know, SB is not respected by most of the users of this forum.

Hey, Im not saying not to buy one, I OWN BOTH!! Im saying I realize that there is no justification in terms of stitching ,leather quality or other construction parameters for the price. Maybe design is a little more unique but if you went custom you could get that too. I bought them because I feel good when I wear them.
SB makes a good jacket. Period. Sizing can be odd. Their jackets are tough, leathers are good, designs are classic and the cost a quarter of TFH. I have 5. Doesnt mean I don't love my TFH jackets, just that they are not a good value.
Honestly if you want good value, buy an index fund. Jackets may keep you warm but they wont pay the rent
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
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4,622
maybe look into Thedi since you are already in Europe
That's a great suggestion. Here's one of their older models that might fit the bill.

With Thedi you get a custom jacket that is perfectly constructed (the ones I've handled were all flawless). Great pattern too.

Edit : sorry I obviously missed the part that we weren't allowed to advice other jackets lol.

B39F2F25-1150-404F-9166-3E6A824D198C.jpeg
 
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NYDRH

One of the Regulars
Messages
123
Here TFH jacket was sold and it looked very well in used condition.
This was my jacket, I was very happy with it and probably will end up buying another one in the future. I probably should have kept it tbh. I can't compare it the specific RMC jacket but I have several flat head jackets and i do like them.
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
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4,550
Location
Iowa
So I have never owned either of these, and at the price point I doubt very much I ever will.

That said, I give a slight nod to The Flat Head as it has a slightly more "Rocker" or "Biker" look and I happen to like the upper western "V" yoke on the back. There can be construction "character" in any jacket at any price-point, so I tend not to get too caught up in that myself.

I would be interested in knowing more about the RMC with the "larger - hookless zipper." I have owned two other jackets with #5 Hookless zippers, and they are an aquired taste. There are a few threads here on this specific type of zipper.

I have only sampled Shinki horsehide with one Diamond Dave J21 jacket. There is info on this jacket here. I was underwhelmed by the Shinki Leather, but then I'm a fan of CXL (Horween) Horse & Steer overall. Perhaps this is a bit thicker overall, it does appear that way.

In any case -- GL with your decision...
 
Messages
14,838
That's a great suggestion. Here's one of their older models that might fit the bill.

With Thedi you get a custom jacket that is perfectly constructed (the ones I've handled were all flawless). Great pattern too.

Edit : sorry I obviously missed the part that we weren't allowed to advice other jackets lol.

View attachment 360283

This is gorgeous. I like it 30x more than the mentioned alternatives.
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
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2,918
Location
Bay Area CA
That's a great suggestion. Here's one of their older models that might fit the bill.

With Thedi you get a custom jacket that is perfectly constructed (the ones I've handled were all flawless). Great pattern too.

Edit : sorry I obviously missed the part that we weren't allowed to advice other jackets lol.

View attachment 360283

That Thedi looks great, love the collar, the sleeve straps or whatever they call it is a nice touch too.
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

One Too Many
Messages
1,946
I think as others have said, at this price point, you can't go wrong. It's more of which will fit better. Saying one leather is "better" than the other can mean a lot of things. And obviously whether any jacket is worth what you pay for it is another topic. The simple answer is no, because when you go and try to resell it, it's worth a good chunk less, barring some extreme examples. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't buy it. It's all relative.

All I can say is every time I see a jacket and think to myself, that is one good looking jacket, the majority of times it's been a RMC. Could be a flight jacket, a buco repro, whatever. There's something to them that looks good to my taste. Doesn't mean the FH is bad or worse or whatever, but for whatever reason, those RMCs really pop. I've seen plenty people around here rocking their FHs as well too. So if money is no problem, I'd probably spend a few days comparing fit pics, body types, etc. and then go with the closest match.

And another vote for Thedi :p I'd have a closet full if I was starting over and call it day.
 

dudewuttheheck

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,476
I'm a big Flat Head fan, but I would still go RMC. I like their patterns more and though both will have QC mistakes sometimes, I think RMC has less of them on their leather jackets, while Flat Head's other products are better made than RMC's other products.
 

Will Zach

Call Me a Cab
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2,446
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Northeast USA
You pay because you like the way it makes you feel.
The jackets that make me feel great cost me $120 and $80, respectively, 1940/50s horsehide Spiegel and 1960s Kurland.
No new jacket ever came close so I stopped looking, particularly in the 2,400 euro range. I realize it is a different game and I am not judging how others spend their money, God bless them, just pointing out that sometimes the best things in life are (almost) free, lol.
 

Rich22

Practically Family
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546
Location
G.B.
The RMC jacket looks great. The Flathead jacket has shoulders that appear too wide, which looks a little messy in comparison, IMO.

At that price point you'd expect an exceptional jacket, and honestly, I'd want a jacket that was custom fit to me.
 

MrProper

Call Me a Cab
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2,355
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Europe
The Flathead jacket has shoulders that appear too wide, which looks a little messy in comparison, IMO.

I don't know any of the jackets and they are not (yet) my price range.
But I think the flat head from @Insomnia looks pretty damn good.

Even if it is not desired by the creator of the thread... but maybe Field Leathers would also be an alternative? Provided you can live with the long wait... I can not ;)
 

Rich22

Practically Family
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546
Location
G.B.
I don't know any of the jackets and they are not (yet) my price range.
But I think the flat head from @Insomnia looks pretty damn good.
Insomnia's jacket looks awesome... I was referring to the jacket the OP referenced. Insomnia's jacket's shoulders might sag on a different frame, however, though they don't in him. By the way, judging by the jackets you've shown on here, you're got a good eye for selecting very good jackets.
 
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Superfluous

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Missing in action
The determinative factor is body shape. If you have a V-shaped torso, TFH is a great option. On the other hand, if you have a more barrel shaped torso, the RMC will likely be a better fit. I generally cannot wear THF jackets because the shoulders are too wide and the resulting fit is undesirable (to those that espouse the "shoulder dimension doesn't matter" school of thought, my experience is very different). RMC jackets fit me much better.

One other noteworthy distinction is the weight/pliability of the Shinki HH. The Shinki HH on TFH jacket is heavier and less pliable as compared to the RMC jacket. TFH is still comfortable, but a noticeably different feel.

Given that both jackets are handmade, an imperfect stitch or two is certainly possible . . . and much more apparent when magnified 10x in posted photographs as compared to real world usage.

Although the OP did not express any desire to obtain the best bang for his buck, the subsequent posters correctly identify materially less expensive options that represent a better value as compared to TFH/RMC. TFH and RMC are not value brands and their pricing far exceeds the point of diminishing returns.

Lastly, the exaltation of vintage jackets in a thread comparing two brand new TFH/RMC jackets strikes me as discordant and the quintessential example of apples and oranges.
 
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