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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,073
Location
Verona - Italia
There are not only ancient wool or misto hats, but also ones that are recent enough to seem out of time
I had anticipated that I had a couple of curiosities relating to the end of hat making in Italy
Chicago 1930 1.jpg
It is a period in which these hats arrive on the market with something unexpected, the latest very interesting creations, of an industry in crisis, capable of inventing splendid hats with laughable marketing
Chicago 1930 interno.jpg
Today it's the turn of a hat bearing the "Chicago 1930" brand, implying its similarity to gangster hats
Chicago 1930 5.jpg
Instead it is a typical Italian shaped hat with a medium crown and wide brims, typical of the 1950s
Chicago 1930 3.jpg
What is interesting and what made me buy it, despite it not being my size, is the rough and shiny Mixed felt (wool+fur) with a fantastic "honey" color, called on the paper label "anni 30 satinè" :)
Chicago 1930 Etichetta carta.jpg
The finishes are top notch and I'm not able to identify the hat factory that made this beautiful specimen during the season of decline.
Chicago 1930 marchio.jpg
In summary: "Chicago Years 1930 " measures 58 centimeters or 5 1/2 French Points and 7 1/4 in the States.
Chicago 1930 7.jpg
The measurements are: the hemmed brims of the same color as the felt, in constrast with the brown ribbon are 7 cm., the ribbon measures 4 cm. and the crown, fully open, is 15.5 centimeters
Chicago 1930 8.jpg


Meanwhile, the first one has finally arrived to show itself. The sequel will come soon
 

PanosChris

Practically Family
Messages
969
There are not only ancient wool or misto hats, but also ones that are recent enough to seem out of time
I had anticipated that I had a couple of curiosities relating to the end of hat making in Italy
Chicago 1930 1.jpg
It is a period in which these hats arrive on the market with something unexpected, the latest very interesting creations, of an industry in crisis, capable of inventing splendid hats with laughable marketing
Chicago 1930 interno.jpg
Today it's the turn of a hat bearing the "Chicago 1930" brand, implying its similarity to gangster hats
Chicago 1930 5.jpg
Instead it is a typical Italian shaped hat with a medium crown and wide brims, typical of the 1950s
Chicago 1930 3.jpg
What is interesting and what made me buy it, despite it not being my size, is the rough and shiny Mixed felt (wool+fur) with a fantastic "honey" color, called on the paper label "anni 30 satinè" :)
Chicago 1930 Etichetta carta.jpg
The finishes are top notch and I'm not able to identify the hat factory that made this beautiful specimen during the season of decline.
Chicago 1930 marchio.jpg
In summary: "Chicago Years 1930 " measures 58 centimeters or 5 1/2 French Points and 7 1/4 in the States.
Chicago 1930 7.jpg
The measurements are: the hemmed brims of the same color as the felt, in constrast with the brown ribbon are 7 cm., the ribbon measures 4 cm. and the crown, fully open, is 15.5 centimeters
Chicago 1930 8.jpg


Meanwhile, the first one has finally arrived to show itself. The sequel will come soon
Great, Daniele! Nice to see those later ones in mixed felt finishes.
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,073
Location
Verona - Italia
Less bold than the "Chicago 1930 Years" this is a humble hat with a fantastic "Misto" felt
Charles Hatters A.jpg
It wasn't easy to convince the seller to send me a photo of the felt, his solution was drastic: take it or leave it
Charles Hatters 1.jpg
I took a chance and won
Charles Hatters interno.jpg
Charles Hatters measures 58 centimeters, or 5 1/2 French point, in the USA he measures 7 1/4. finished very well for the period and above all, unlike his brothers it is soft
Charles Hatters 7.jpg
This is the name of the felt (what I can really read): "M L Foca M. Marrone"
Charles Hatters Foca etichetta carta.jpg
Soft and with a color that I have rarely seen in recent years
Charles Hatters particolare feltro1 s.jpg
Of course, the production is Borsalino and probably in Stefan's annals there is evidence that there is a "Misto Marrone" and a "Foca" which is the felt finish.
Charles Hatters 4.jpg
The measurements are typical of an Italian hat from the Sixties/Seventies.
The brims are 4.8 cm. and the ribbon is 4cm high. while the open crown is 13 centimetres
Charles Hatters 9.jpg
All I have to do is look for one in my size to have this type of felt :)
Charles Hatters particolare feltro s.jpg


Coming soon a pair of Borsalinos found on the market in precarious conditions
Thanks for your likes and kind words on the "Chicago satinè"
 

PanosChris

Practically Family
Messages
969
I've had this one on my list for ages till the right one appeared. It's actually on my possession for quite some time now but just managed to complete (nearly) the research it deserves and post all the materials here in several parts.

Part Ia, The Hat

Square crown or Cambridge bowler (similar to coach derby in US) in black wool. Late 1800s to early 1900s
20220112_152113.jpg
20220112_152124.jpg
20220112_152156.jpg
20220112_152141.jpg
20220112_152241.jpg

Condition is great for its age. Size is a tight 55, but it fits (barely)

It's the lost twin brother of @steur hat posted here:


Same maker (unknown), different blocking (note the numbering) and sold by different retailers
20220112_152345.jpg

This one was sold by chapelerie Hubert Plassard (more on that later). Came with original box
20220112_151721.jpg

Box label with handwritten details of owner, address (just down the street from store's location actually) and delivery instructions (I think)
20220112_151745.jpg


*to be continued (wait for it)
 

PanosChris

Practically Family
Messages
969
Part Ib

Liner has elements from the Val de Marne blason: the sun and the Motto: Labor, pax, libertas
20220112_152250.jpg

Val de Marne
Screenshot_20231120_035303_Firefox.jpg

This could narrow down the maker to the Grand Paris Metropolis. However in my experience liner logos on those old ones are often misleading and serve only marketing purposes.

Sometime during its 120 years lifetime it ended up in Italy, before coming my way.

As an additional bonus it came with ribbon protector
20220112_152505.jpg

Luckily it wasn't worn much and was stored properly. A time capsule!

*to be continued
 
Last edited:

PanosChris

Practically Family
Messages
969
Part II, The Style

The square crown bowler was very popular at the turn of the 20th century in Europe and gained its reputation in US soon after.
Screenshot_20231120_175829_Firefox.jpg
Screenshot_20231120_175847_Firefox.jpg
H.Plassard8.png

Screenshot_20231120_211409_Firefox.jpg
Unfortunately only a handful of examples was found and shown in FL throughout the years by past members mostly.

The particular style was mainly favored by the young guys of the era wanting a less formal top hat for daytime. With popularity growing fast it soon expanded to most age groups
Screenshot_20231124_015901_Firefox.jpg
C0423433-Three_American_businessmen,_1900s.jpg
Screenshot_20231124_015958_Firefox.jpg
Screenshot_20231124_015545_Firefox.jpg
Screenshot_20231124_015804_Firefox.jpg

No surprise Sir Winston Churchill himself was a fan. Here, sporting one on 1899 in his mid 20s
Screenshot_20231120_204505_Firefox.jpg

Well if Churchill approved, what else do you need? Fine, icing on the cake a 1896 footage (AI enhanced) from Lyon! You can appreciate several guys sporting it while playing
jeu provençal (French version of boules)


I wonder how many of those fellas did actually buy their hat from the exact same store? (was located in Lyon as well)

*to be continued
 
Last edited:

PanosChris

Practically Family
Messages
969
Part IIIa, The Store

Plassard was a hat and shoe store for the elegant man (as written on facade). Located on 1 Rue de la Barre in Lyon

Storefront drawing
Screenshot_20231120_031718_Firefox.jpg

Examples of souced hats (sold by Plassard) have been found and shown in FL in the past for brands like Mossant (mainly post war ones)

From the 1900 catalog. Chapelier spécialiste ;)
Screenshot_20231120_031732_Firefox.jpg
Screenshot_20231120_031739_Firefox.jpg
Screenshot_20231120_031724_Firefox.jpg

Perhaps in one of the rest pages the square bowlers make their presence!

Rue de la Barre
Screenshot_20231120_032127_Firefox.jpg
Screenshot_20231120_032247_Firefox.jpg


*to be continued
 

PanosChris

Practically Family
Messages
969
Part IV, The Man

Hubert-Philippe Plassard was an active and well respected member of his community. A fair amount of documents showed up during my research
H.Plassard5.png
IMG-20231120-WA0000.jpg

Besides serving the community and promoting his store, monsieur Plassard was also interested in... gardening! A man of good taste to say the least ;)
H.Plassard7.png
H.Plassard_1910_L'Horticulture nouvelle, revue bi-mensuelle des parcs et jardins.png
H.Plassard6.png

H.Plassard3.png
H.Plassard4.png


Unfortunately he passed away later that year (1912)
H.Plassard_necrologie_1910_L'Horticulture nouvelle, revue bi-mensuelle des parcs et jardins.png

And an advertising patent from 1906 (could belong to another person, though I wouldn't be surprised if not)
H.Plassard1.png


That's all folks! I hope you enjoyed this mini series that the hat inspired me to do, as I did enjoy the hunt and consequent research

*the END
 
Messages
18,788
Location
Central California
Part IV, The Man

Hubert-Philippe Plassard was an active and well respected member of his community. A fair amount of documents showed up during my research
View attachment 563980 View attachment 563981
Besides serving the community and promoting his store, monsieur Plassard was also interested in... gardening! A man of good taste to say the least ;) View attachment 563982 View attachment 563983 View attachment 563984
View attachment 563990 View attachment 563991

Unfortunately he passed away later that year (1912)
View attachment 563988
And an advertising patent from 1906 (could belong to another person, though I wouldn't be surprised if not) View attachment 563989

That's all folks! I hope you enjoyed this mini series that the hat inspired me to do, as I did enjoy the hunt and consequent research

*the END


Fantastic piece of research and documentation, Panos. This is the stuff that keeps me wanting to learn more.
 
Messages
17,757
Location
Nederland
Part IV, The Man

Hubert-Philippe Plassard was an active and well respected member of his community. A fair amount of documents showed up during my research
View attachment 563980 View attachment 563981
Besides serving the community and promoting his store, monsieur Plassard was also interested in... gardening! A man of good taste to say the least ;) View attachment 563982 View attachment 563983 View attachment 563984
View attachment 563990 View attachment 563991

Unfortunately he passed away later that year (1912)
View attachment 563988
And an advertising patent from 1906 (could belong to another person, though I wouldn't be surprised if not) View attachment 563989

That's all folks! I hope you enjoyed this mini series that the hat inspired me to do, as I did enjoy the hunt and consequent research

*the END
Wow! That is a staggering amount of research, Panos. Great job and nice to see one of the twins did well for himself;). Seems like mine has been sleeping rough.
Peculiar for our modern eyes to see how much fun these guys seem to have playing boules.
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,554
Location
Central Texas
Amazing research. Thanks for sharing this wonderful history with us.

Part II, The Style

The square crown bowler was very popular at the turn of the 20th century in Europe and gained its reputation in US soon after. View attachment 563940 View attachment 563942 View attachment 563943
View attachment 563941 Unfortunately only a handful of examples was found and shown in FL throughout the years by past members mostly.

The particular style was mainly favored by the young guys of the era wanting a less formal top hat for daytime. With popularity growing fast it soon expanded to most age groups View attachment 563945 View attachment 563946 View attachment 563947 View attachment 563948 View attachment 563944
No surprise Sir Winston Churchill himself was a fan. Here, sporting one on 1899 in his mid 20s View attachment 563954
Well if Churchill approved, what else do you need? Fine, icing on the cake a 1896 footage (AI enhanced) from Lyon! You can appreciate several guys sporting it while playing
jeu provençal (French version of boules)


I wonder how many of those fellas did actually buy their hat from the exact same store? (was located in Lyon as well)

*to be continued
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,554
Location
Central Texas
...and what an amazing hat, too! I hope you have a chance to wear it some over the holiday season.

I've had this one on my list for ages till the right one appeared. It's actually on my possession for quite some time now but just managed to complete (nearly) the research it deserves and post all the materials here in several parts.

Part Ia, The Hat

Square crown or Cambridge bowler (similar to coach derby in US) in black wool. Late 1800s to early 1900s
View attachment 563926 View attachment 563927 View attachment 563928 View attachment 563930 View attachment 563931
Condition is great for its age. Size is a tight 55, but it fits (barely)

It's the lost twin brother of @steur hat posted here:


Same maker (unknown), different blocking (note the numbering) and sold by different retailers View attachment 563932
This one was sold by chapelerie Hubert Plassard (more on that later). Came with original box View attachment 563933
Box label with handwritten details of owner, address (just down the street from store's location actually) and delivery instructions (I think) View attachment 563934

*to be continued (wait for it)
 
Messages
17,757
Location
Nederland
Recent woolfelt survivor. Recent in the sense that I only got it last week. The hat itself is likely pre-war.
Eichenberger homburg in black. Size 57 with the bound brim at 6cm and the substantial crown at 11.5cm at the center dent. Weighs 165 grams, so as expected from a woolfelt on the heavier side. Well made hat, but very soft. It used to have a liner, but that is gone. The label doesn't ring a bell, but it suggests that it is actually either a French or Swiss made hat.

eichenberger_01.jpg


eichenberger_02.jpg


eichenberger_03.jpg


eichenberger_04.jpg


eichenberger_06.jpg


eichenberger_07.jpg


eichenberger_08.jpg


eichenberger_09.jpg


eichenberger_10.jpg


eichenberger_11.jpg
 

PanosChris

Practically Family
Messages
969
Recent woolfelt survivor. Recent in the sense that I only got it last week. The hat itself is likely pre-war.
Eichenberger homburg in black. Size 57 with the bound brim at 6cm and the substantial crown at 11.5cm at the center dent. Weighs 165 grams, so as expected from a woolfelt on the heavier side. Well made hat, but very soft. It used to have a liner, but that is gone. The label doesn't ring a bell, but it suggests that it is actually either a French or Swiss made hat.

eichenberger_01.jpg


eichenberger_02.jpg


eichenberger_03.jpg


eichenberger_04.jpg


eichenberger_06.jpg


eichenberger_07.jpg


eichenberger_08.jpg


eichenberger_09.jpg


eichenberger_10.jpg


eichenberger_11.jpg
Nice catch, Stefan! Looks in great condition too. Thankfully they are still out there
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,180
Location
Maryland
Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden, "Küssnacht" "Tell", 57 cm, Wool possibly 1930s. This Soft Felt was most likely sourced and could have been made by one of the German Hat Factories (located in what became East Germany post WWII) that produced Wool Soft and Stiff Felt hats up to WWII. The Liner is extremally light weight so very delicate. I found this Wool Soft Felt back in March 2023.

52740203232_eb4630c601_h.jpg


52740198232_8088c66add_h.jpg


52741137270_dca3f4a5b6_h.jpg


52742833591_3ccfa51ea5_h.jpg


52740988319_56db209fde_h.jpg


52741220453_21cc178c30_h.jpg


Open Crown

52740750796_9e9a19a42d_h.jpg


52740231492_39a83dd92e_h.jpg
 

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