Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

Marc mndt · Mar 3, 2024

So here's my goatskin Block Bilt, probably late 30s? I've put about 25 hours of restoration work into it. Hand sewing is labor intensive lol. The only thing left to do is to replace the lining but I'll leave that to a professional.

I've seen a lot of halfbelt designs since I've gotten into this hobby and I have to say, this is probably the nicest halfbelt design ever made.

They went all out with the design. Nice V shaped back panel, full action back, buttoned side adjusters, buttoned front pockets (one functional the other ornamental), handwarmer pockets with flaps that are integrated into the front panels, buttoned cuffs (with buttons on the inside so you can shorten them by rolling them up). A beautiful Cuban collar. This jacket has it all.

Originally it came with shoulder pads but I removed those because I didn't like the power suit look. The jacket doesn't have a size tag but it is probably a size 44 or 46. Which is rather large for me but I made it work by replacing the worn out elastic gusset band by not one but two fresh ones. I also moved the front buttons about an inch inwards.

Marc mndt · Mar 3, 2024

Fit pics. I'm wearing it with a shirt only here but the jacket looks best when layered as it's slightly big on me.

Here's some more pics of the same Block Bilt design. Note that some have buttoned chest pockets while others have not. The zipped version as shown on the mannequin was once owned by @tmitchell59 .

tmitchell59 · Mar 3, 2024

I do like the button version much better, give the jacket a new presence. Mine was quite small, as it is stretched on that form. It had the same incredible goatskin. I sold mine years ago as I had to reduce my goat herd to jackets I can wear.

They sure knew how to use goat skin. And such a design! They had some sense of creativity.

I never saw mine worn. I was curious how it would look. It looks good on you, interesting to see you in a zip version. Those "eyebrow" pockets remind me of East West jackets. They were in the same area, I would guess they were inspired.

Marc mndt · Mar 3, 2024

tmitchell59 said:
It had the same incredible goatskin.

I've handled a bunch of goatskin jacket from the 40, a couple from the 30s. Most were thinner and felt harder to the touch than this one. This Block Bilt's goatskin looks and feels very luxurious. I'd describe it as thick deerskin but with a coarser top layer.

tmitchell59 said:
I never saw mine worn. I was curious how it would look.

Here's the grey one worn. Plus some extra pics of the jacket from when it was listed on ebay.

Yamahana · Mar 3, 2024

Marc mndt said:
So here's my goatskin Block Bilt, probably late 30s? I've put about 25 hours of restoration work into it. Hand sewing is labor intensive lol. The only thing left to do is to replace the lining but I'll leave that to a professional.

I've seen a lot of halfbelt designs since I've gotten into this hobby and I have to say, this is probably the nicest halfbelt design ever made.

They went all out with the design. Nice V shaped back panel, full action back, buttoned side adjusters, buttoned front pockets (one functional the other ornamental), handwarmer pockets with flaps that are integrated into the front panels, buttoned cuffs (with buttons on the inside so you can shorten them by rolling them up). A beautiful Cuban collar. This jacket has it all.

Originally it came with shoulder pads but I removed those because I didn't like the power suit look. The jacket doesn't have a size tag but it is probably a size 44 or 46. Which is rather large for me but I made it work by replacing the worn out elastic gusset band by not one but two fresh ones. I also moved the front buttons about an inch inwards.
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The epitome of the best classic 30’s - 40’s jacket. Button up makes it even grander in my humble opinion.
As good as it’s gonna get.
Great job on bringing it back to life thus far.

jeo · Mar 4, 2024

I’m fairly certain that’s a Seattle Woolen label and lining but the design looks like Ralphs Pugh. This is an interesting one.

tmitchell59 · Mar 4, 2024

jeo · Mar 15, 2024

My 1940 Hercules sports jacket made by Rough Wear

My 1955-57 Harley Davidson Cycle Champ made by Rough Wear

tmitchell59 · Mar 16, 2024

jeo said:
My 1955-57 Harley Davidson Cycle Champ made by Rough Wear

what does this HD look like in full? sounds like an interesting connection. Harley Davidson pose many questions. I had not noticed this very familiar tag. RW strikes again. What a player they were.

tmitchell59 · Mar 16, 2024

jeo said:
My 1955-57 Harley Davidson Cycle Champ made by Rough Wear

Ok, the 4 spot with the cool pocket? My favorite of that edition. This is the one I always thought was Blatt of Chicago.

jeo · Mar 16, 2024

tmitchell59 said:
RW strikes again. What a player they were.

Indeed. Rough Wear and California Sportswear were the two most prolific makers of all time.

tmitchell59 said:
Ok, the 4 spot with the cool pocket? My favorite of that edition. This is the one I always thought was Blatt of Chicago.

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Yup that’s the one!

This one made by Rough Wear was the fourth edition of the cycle champ. This is the one Elvis wore. Here are two of mine.

The one made by Blatt is the 3rd edition. The shape of the D pocket is completely different from the fourth edition. Here are 3 of mine, one black horsehide, one brown horsehide and one very rare brown steerhide.

Here’s the one with the Blatt label.

Leigh H · Mar 28, 2024

Does anyone have any info on Well Made Jacket Co? 40's jacket, very similar to StarGlove/Cal

jeo · Mar 28, 2024

Leigh H said:
Does anyone have any info on Well Made Jacket Co? 40's jacket, very similar to StarGlove/Cal

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Just saw that guys IG post too.

There was a post not too long ago about Well Made Co. the jacket that was posted looked to be identical to a Taubers jacket.

This one is really cool and that back design looks like a Block Bilt.

Ralphs-Pugh Company

Another one for the books. A later version, absent the front piping. One of my best. 1950s

www.thefedoralounge.com

Ralphs-Pugh Company

Another one for the books. A later version, absent the front piping. One of my best. 1950s

www.thefedoralounge.com

Leigh H · Mar 28, 2024

jeo said:
Just saw that guys IG post too.

There was a post not too long ago about Well Made Co. the jacket that was posted looked to be identical to a Taubers jacket.

This one is really cool and that back design looks like a Block Bilt.

thanks i found it! interesting!

semolina_pilchard · Apr 2, 2024

I found another CHP by Well Made...

Leigh H · Apr 5, 2024

jeo · Apr 5, 2024

You see the one where they bought Marlon Brando’s personal jacket for $8,000? Looks to be a Grais.

Will Zach · Apr 6, 2024

semolina_pilchard said:
I found another CHP by Well Made...

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The name is a Google search nightmare, lol.

semolina_pilchard · Apr 7, 2024

Will Zach said:
The name is a Google search nightmare, lol.

I know, the one above was on a Japanese site as “Well leather jacket” and I saw it totally by chance.

jeo · Apr 9, 2024

30’s Johnson Bros.

1936 Schott Perfecto half belt!!

1939 California Sportswear

1941 Grais

1943 Block Bilt

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