BRACES (SUSPENDERS)

[Nick Charles]

Inside is fine, outside is fine. It depends on the wearer. I prefer inside myself, I have a pair of Eddie bauer pants that came with inside buttons, as well as a couple of my vintage pants. The only company I've seen that consistantly offer them is J peterman. Good Luck,

Putting them on yourself is not hard but make sure the placement os right or they will feel weird.

 

[Mr. Rover]

If you have never seen suspender buttons in pants I would advise that you bring a pair of pants to a tailor and have suspender buttons put in. Then, you will see how the buttons should be placed so the pleats drape right, the pants hang correctly, etc. After the first time, though, it should be relatively easy to sew on buttons yourself. You're just going to have to buy them (or go through your mother's or grandmother's bag full of buttons).
I haven't seen any company consistently put out pants with suspender buttons except for those mentioned already. The only one I can add to the list is Polo Ralph Lauren sometimes has them in their dress pants.

 

[scotrace]

.

The buttons I have that are inside the waistband are sewn to *just* the lining. There is a tendency for the lining itself to be pulled upward and it can show in an unsightly way above the top of the trousers. Sewing buttons in this way can also be a bit of a challenge but I've done it.

Has anyone just *very* carefully sewn all the way through the wasitband with matching thread?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

When sewing on suspender buttons i normally go through the apron JUST ENOUGH to catch the material on the other side without going right through the waistband ...

And yes, avoid the clip-ons!

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

if vintage trousers have internal suspender buttons they are usually sewn onto the waistband lining only to avoid the outside of the trouser nipping in due to the tension. however i've never had any problem with lining pulling up and showing above the waistline. i guess this is because vintage linings are fitted tighter than modern. if your trousers have no belt-loops i would put the buttons on the outside (providing the buttons match). then you can sew all the way through for a securer fix.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

the ones i have that are stitched just onto the lining generally have stitching to attach the apron to the waistband above and below the button to make sure there is no riding up ...

bk

 

[Mr. Rover]

Well, if the buttons are sewn in on the top half of the waistband, then the pulling/flipping of the waistband shouldn't occur theoretically.

 

[herringbonekid]

Baron, that is probably what is missing from modern trousers (i haven't got the stomach to look). this may be getting too complicated, but sometimes if the belt loops are at the exact position of the brace buttons, the internal buttons WILL be sewn all the way through as any pinching (and thread) is hidden behind the belt loop. get it ?

 

[Hammelby]

What brands of pants typically have suspender buttons?

You mentioned buttons for suspenders. That is a good
question, if there really is "special ones" for this purpose?

When i needed some i just took a look in my local vintage store
and just bought some that matched the button that already
were on the pants.

 

[Orgetorix]

As to suspender button placement, the button closest to the fly on each side should be directly over the pleat. That way, the pleats drape straight, as they should.

 

[herringbonekid]

You mentioned buttons for suspenders. That is a good
question, if there really is "special ones" for this purpose?

yes, they have a deeply domed rear to accomodate the thickness of the leather brace tabs. once you've seen them you'll never mistake them for another button!



good geeky stuff this chaps ! keep it coming !

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Yes, there are special buttons for suspenders. Today's suspender buttons are made of white, cream, tan, grey, or black plastic. They look like flying saucers: smooth surface, sharp and narrow edge. All fabric stores sell them.

.

 

[Orgetorix]

Yes, there are special buttons for suspenders. Today's suspender buttons are made of white, cream, tan, grey, or black plastic. They look like flying saucers: smooth surface, sharp and narrow edge. All fabric stores sell them.

.

Sometimes braces will even come with a package of them from the store.

 

[herringbonekid]

i've just checked and vintage american brace buttons tend to be flatter than english ones. i was describing the english type before.

 

[Hammelby]

yes, they have a deeply domed rear to accomodate the thickness of the leather brace tabs. once you've seen them you'll never mistake them for another button!

good geeky stuff this chaps ! keep it coming !

Thanks, Herringbone and Mark. Very geeky indeed and i LIKE it! lol

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Sometimes braces will even come with a package of them from the store.

That's true.

Here in America, suspenders reached a revival peak in the Reagan-Bush years. In the early '90s, most of the suits sold in department stores had suspender buttons already sewn in. Then, as slimmer, lower-waisted pants came to the fore, suspenders lost their popularity. Today, it's a fringe fashion.

.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

yes, the american ones are definitely flatter.

bk

p.s. Hammelby: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?p=178500#post178500

 

[Marc Chevalier]

See a photo of American suspender buttons here: http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:...+"suspender+buttons"&hl=en&gl=us&ct=clnk&cd=2


.

 

[herringbonekid]

here's your classic 30s/40s english brace button:

note the concave face which forms a little bowl where the stitches sit. note also the domed rear of the one on the right: steeply rising away from the point of contact with the fabric to allow the brace tabs room to sit.

ah, the poetry of vintage brace buttons.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Could you jsut get away with using regular buttons but sew a long and thick shank by placing a toothpick or matchstick between the button and fabric?