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my visit to the jacket tailor today
- Thread starter navetsea
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- 16,477
This is crazy what these people can do! Exactly like on the drawing! What I've said before, most makers would be asking for anything north of $2K for a jacket like that. Absolutely amazing. It's incredible how well the curved front works at being a cross zip. No clue how you come up with that one but it's awesome. Can't wait to see how the jacket will break in. Really curious about the front. Sleeves are already looking good.
Thanks Monitor, yeah im liking the curved cross it looks more organic and matches well with the curved hem. And from creases pattern on cr with slant chest pocket or around d pocket i have some idea how the creases would form on a softer leather when contrasted with a thicker patch, i hope the creases happen on this would look nice like that.
Yes indeed the sleeves are quite fast creasing very happy with that.
Yes indeed the sleeves are quite fast creasing very happy with that.
Hi Poul, hmm no if what you mean a free floating interlining from horse hair thing that expensive suit have for the lapel to roll nicely and to give more cleaner body but maybe cow hide also doesnt really need it as by its own weight and thickness it would roll naturally. However for clean sewing i saw before the facing is sewn they bonded a thin strip maybe a width of cellotape of that non woven fabrics to limit stretching and puckering along the sewn line.
I think the order is the ability of the tailor to draw the pattern for you first, sure it would be nice if the stitching is perfect but just from a glance you see the cutting and fitting first, for me personally I don't really mind the hide so much, as long as it is sturdy and at least still a top grain, give it time and wear eventually whatever leather as long as it is more leather than plastic it would be aging well, saying that I do care about leather positioning, since your jacket is made from more than one animal hide, then there are several similar looking leather sheets involved, it matters to me if the one who cut the pattern would use one hide to make both front panels, or at least taking effort to feel the the slightly different feel and grain of these hides to make the jacket look and feel more symmetrical.
Today i deliver another 10sqfeet of 2mm leather for cuff, inside kidney panel, and patch pockets, the hide pictured above. i saw my pattern has been made so i adjusted with minor input about pocket placement. And i ask for raw edges for pockets, hem, and facing edges, to make it looks more badass. Cuff is folded over with no top stitch as my usual preference
Fifty150
One Too Many
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- The Barbary Coast
Cost of labor is far different. Even here in The United States, I remember guys going to Mexico for custom cowboy boots and leather. And if you find the right shop, you get the best quality also. I know plenty of people who used to go to Hong Kong for bespoke clothing. Then Shanghai and Hong Kong tailors began touring the US. They come to a city, rent a hotel room, and by word of mouth, you got an appointment to be measured. Then the internet brought online websites where you enter your measurements, and they send you a great fitting, cheap suit. One of us may have to go into the business if custom leather online sales. Maybe someone already in a 3rd world country and has a good tailor.
And apparently my country is tropical with half of the year warm and dry and another half wet and even warmer, not many people desire jackets especially not in leather they cant really wash. Yesterday when i was there, there is only one other work in progress jacket on the mannequin, didnt take a photo since it was an abomination crossbred cafe racer with knit cuff and waistband in coffee latte color .... ugh my stomach get in my mouth again just by typing.
My third fitting for the body is done, the black zipper thing is a mistake it would be just open pocket slightly curved, and also there are D or U patch pocket not shown here since this is only to check the fit. I will have the sleeve slightly shorter on this but more tapering / sealing when zipped than this mockup.
still going with this detail, the shoulder slope is raised a bit and the top shoulder seam brought forward more, so the action panel is actually shown on the top of the shoulder, I think it might add more shoulder articulation more like a vest do. when placing the patch pockets I asked if they could cut a cardboard or foam a little smaller than the pocket and stuff it inside while sewing the patch pocket on so it creates some room in the pocket from start.
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