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Aero Premier 1930s Highwayman

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
I missed this entire thread last month while crossing the Atlantic Ocean from Civitavecchia (Rome) to Fort Lauderdale. It appears the Aero Premier line works well with skinny guys like Sloan (and me): Higher armholes and skinny arms - less boxy fit as with the standard HWM and 50's HB designs. Anyhow, both of those jackets look great on Sloan if they were a size smaller - sort of like a junior high school kid trying on his dad's clothes. :D
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,839
Location
Europe
Premier Highwayman in cordovan Chromexcel Steerhide (CXSH) lined with brown moleskin. Zippers are Universal in nickel. Weight of the jacket 2,75 kg/6.06 lbs.

It is my first CXSH jacket and I am more than satisfied. Until now I only knew Chromexcel Frontquarter Horsehide (CXFQHH). I actually like CXSH better because it is thick, but still rather soft. It's a shame that CXSH doesn't have the same color selection as CXFQHH.

The Cordovan color is definitely an eye-catcher. If you want to be more low-key on the go, you might not want to pick this color. Personally I think cordovan is cool.

As @Monitor described, "It is almost red on a sunny day and deep purple when it is cloudy."

The moleskin lining is perfect. Chromexcel leather is a "cold" leather, in my opinion, and transmits the outside temperature to the body uninsulated. The moleskin does a great job of compensating for that. And the shade of brown from the moleskin looks much better than I had hoped. I'm glad I followed Chloe's recommendation.

I'm excited to see how the jacket will develop. I wore it for 12 hours straight the first day and it was extremely comfortable.

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I think Aero should ditch half of their styles and focus only on ones they do really, really well, like the Premier - or even the regular - Highwayman. This is seriously perfect jacket and it fits you perfectly, @MrProper. Although knowing exactly what you want & what works for you, as you do, does help tremendously but I've rarely seen a failed Premier HWM. It's a good, lovely jacket, one that looks better than it's supposed to.
 
Messages
17,106
Location
Chicago
Premier Highwayman in cordovan Chromexcel Steerhide (CXSH) lined with brown moleskin. Zippers are Universal in nickel. Weight of the jacket 2,75 kg/6.06 lbs.

It is my first CXSH jacket and I am more than satisfied. Until now I only knew Chromexcel Frontquarter Horsehide (CXFQHH). I actually like CXSH better because it is thick, but still rather soft. It's a shame that CXSH doesn't have the same color selection as CXFQHH.

The Cordovan color is definitely an eye-catcher. If you want to be more low-key on the go, you might not want to pick this color. Personally I think cordovan is cool.

As @Monitor described, "It is almost red on a sunny day and deep purple when it is cloudy."

The moleskin lining is perfect. Chromexcel leather is a "cold" leather, in my opinion, and transmits the outside temperature to the body uninsulated. The moleskin does a great job of compensating for that. And the shade of brown from the moleskin looks much better than I had hoped. I'm glad I followed Chloe's recommendation.

I'm excited to see how the jacket will develop. I wore it for 12 hours straight the first day and it was extremely comfortable.

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As good as it gets!! SUPERB!!!!
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,397
Location
Europe
Premier Highwayman in cordovan Chromexcel Steerhide (CXSH) lined with brown moleskin. Zippers are Universal in nickel. Weight of the jacket 2,75 kg/6.06 lbs.

It is my first CXSH jacket and I am more than satisfied. Until now I only knew Chromexcel Frontquarter Horsehide (CXFQHH). I actually like CXSH better because it is thick, but still rather soft. It's a shame that CXSH doesn't have the same color selection as CXFQHH.

The Cordovan color is definitely an eye-catcher. If you want to be more low-key on the go, you might not want to pick this color. Personally I think cordovan is cool.

As @Monitor described, "It is almost red on a sunny day and deep purple when it is cloudy."

The moleskin lining is perfect. Chromexcel leather is a "cold" leather, in my opinion, and transmits the outside temperature to the body uninsulated. The moleskin does a great job of compensating for that. And the shade of brown from the moleskin looks much better than I had hoped. I'm glad I followed Chloe's recommendation.

I'm excited to see how the jacket will develop. I wore it for 12 hours straight the first day and it was extremely comfortable.

View attachment 460781 View attachment 460780 View attachment 460779 View attachment 460778 View attachment 460777
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Man, Karsten, you do have some very nice jackets, and I especially like your LL Corsair, but this one: this is just perfection!
Pattern is like it was made for you, and you nailed the fit to the ground. The colour is the icing on an already delicious cake!
 

jglf

A-List Customer
Messages
421
Location
USA
Premier Highwayman in cordovan Chromexcel Steerhide (CXSH) lined with brown moleskin. Zippers are Universal in nickel. Weight of the jacket 2,75 kg/6.06 lbs.

It is my first CXSH jacket and I am more than satisfied. Until now I only knew Chromexcel Frontquarter Horsehide (CXFQHH). I actually like CXSH better because it is thick, but still rather soft. It's a shame that CXSH doesn't have the same color selection as CXFQHH.

The Cordovan color is definitely an eye-catcher. If you want to be more low-key on the go, you might not want to pick this color. Personally I think cordovan is cool.

As @Monitor described, "It is almost red on a sunny day and deep purple when it is cloudy."

The moleskin lining is perfect. Chromexcel leather is a "cold" leather, in my opinion, and transmits the outside temperature to the body uninsulated. The moleskin does a great job of compensating for that. And the shade of brown from the moleskin looks much better than I had hoped. I'm glad I followed Chloe's recommendation.

I'm excited to see how the jacket will develop. I wore it for 12 hours straight the first day and it was extremely comfortable.

View attachment 460781 View attachment 460780 View attachment 460779 View attachment 460778 View attachment 460777
View attachment 460782 View attachment 460783 View attachment 460784
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Did you tweak any of the stock dimensions to fit your body type? I’m built very similar to you and would want the same slim fit you achieved.

I’ve seen other premier highwayman that still look kind of boxy on other members.
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,839
Location
Europe
Did you tweak any of the stock dimensions to fit your body type? I’m built very similar to you and would want the same slim fit you achieved.

I’ve seen other premier highwayman that still look kind of boxy on other members.
Yes, that has been adjusted.
Since my Ridley is a size 44, I assumed that this would have to be the same for a PHWM.
So I got the measurements of a size 44 from Aero and then based on that size we widened the shoulders a bit (+ 0.75" to 19.75"), Hem tapered significantly (- 4" to 19.5"), front drop lengthened (+ 0.5"), back length (26.75" minimum), sleeve length (28" minimum). P2P is 23.75".
 
Messages
17,106
Location
Chicago
Yes, that has been adjusted.
Since my Ridley is a size 44, I assumed that this would have to be the same for a PHWM.
So I got the measurements of a size 44 from Aero and then based on that size we widened the shoulders a bit (+ 0.75" to 19.75"), Hem tapered significantly (- 4" to 19.5"), front drop lengthened (+ 0.5"), back length (26.75" minimum), sleeve length (28" minimum). P2P is 23.75".
The reduction in the waist was a good call. I tried to subtract 2” from mine and was told not too. Proved to be a mistake as mine felt like a tube through the body. Your spec greatly improved the pattern. Removes the tubular torso and gives a “proper” :)D) taper from pit to hem. Undoubtedly the best example of the PHWM I’ve ever seen. I was worried for you when you ordered it as the pattern itself seems ideally suited for a slim, narrow shouldered build, but you certainly fixed that.
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,839
Location
Europe
The reduction in the waist was a good call. I tried to subtract 2” from mine and was told not too. Proved to be a mistake as mine felt like a tube through the body. Your spec greatly improved the pattern. Removes the tubular torso and gives a “proper” :)D) taper from pit to hem. Undoubtedly the best example of the PHWM I’ve ever seen. I was worried for you when you ordered it as the pattern itself seems ideally suited for a slim, narrow shouldered build, but you certainly fixed that.
Yes, I am very pleased with how it turned out.
But if I hadn't gotten the commitment that we were doing -4", I wouldn't have ordered.
With the Premier Halfbelt, the tapering wouldn't have worked out the way I wanted, so I switched to the PHWM.
A Boardracer with these dimensions I can also imagine well.
 

Dbrn

One of the Regulars
Messages
151
Yes, that has been adjusted.
Since my Ridley is a size 44, I assumed that this would have to be the same for a PHWM.
So I got the measurements of a size 44 from Aero and then based on that size we widened the shoulders a bit (+ 0.75" to 19.75"), Hem tapered significantly (- 4" to 19.5"), front drop lengthened (+ 0.5"), back length (26.75" minimum), sleeve length (28" minimum). P2P is 23.75".

As others have already said, really superb fit. Wish my Hooch Hauler had a similar effect. Couple of questions:

1) When getting the shoulders adjusted, did you try and account for how much that would change P2P? Did it affect P2P at all?

2) You've both said this jacket is comfortable, and in previous posts talked about the "neck pressure" some people feel with some Aeros. Would you say this jacket is your first Aero that doesn't have that problem? If so, what would you attribute that to?

Thanks!
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,839
Location
Europe
1) When getting the shoulders adjusted, did you try and account for how much that would change P2P? Did it affect P2P at all?
It said P2P was about 23.75" and I left that as it was a good fit for me. In this respect, I have only widened the shoulders a little. But you can not say that exactly, because there is always the 0.5" tolerance in the room.
2) You've both said this jacket is comfortable, and in previous posts talked about the "neck pressure" some people feel with some Aeros. Would you say this jacket is your first Aero that doesn't have that problem? If so, what would you attribute that to?
The neck problem I have only with my Sheene somewhat stronger. And also at that time with my Cafe Racer. But not so strong that it would bother me particularly. With my Ridley and the PHWM it is so minimal that it is as good as not noticeable to me. Had today the jacket again 12 hours continuously on and had no problem.
I attribute this with the Sheene/CR to the fact that the shoulders are cut very straight in this pattern. Like when there actually protectors / pads would belong under the shoulders. Thus, the jacket lies on the neck first.
But all just speculation. No idea whether this is actually so.
 

jglf

A-List Customer
Messages
421
Location
USA
Just placed an order for a MrProper special Premier Hwy in seal goat. Having it slimmed down with taper to the waist and side panels brought in a stomach level. I asked for the following measurements:
Chest: 21.5
Hem: 19.25
Shoulder: 18
Arms: 25.25
Back: 25.5
This will be a t-shirt only jacket so I lined both the body and sleeves in moleskin.
 
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jglf

A-List Customer
Messages
421
Location
USA
Received my PHWM in seal goatskin size 40 tapered to 38. It’s still a little boxy but overall I really like this jacket. I wish the shoulders, chest, and hem were a little wider and arms and length a little longer. It’s definitely a little tight in the shoulders but is a t-shirt only jacket hence why I lined the body and arms in moleskin. Do you guys think it looks to small on me?

I really want a purchase a board racer but am afraid that the shoulders will be too narrow kind of like the premier line. I’m thinking a cafe racer would fit my body type better but I like the slim high arm holes of a BR better. I don’t want the CR to look too bulky in the upper part of the jacket.
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Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,130
Nailed it!

Yours and Mr Propers PHWYMan knocked it out of the park. Congrats!

Does the PHWYMan have straight or curved sleeves? I am asking because I am on the fence about getting a PHwayman. I have the BR and the regular HMan and both has the curved sleeves and I really prefer the straight ones.
 

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