Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[Faris]

Not authentic in the sense that no G-1 was ever issued by the U.S. Navy with a zip-out liner.

They've also never had hand warmer pockets.

This is probably cowhide made to look like goat. Fake fur color.

Found this message attached to the jacket.

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

Found this message attached to the jacket.

It's called a blood chit. These were put into (or on the backs of) flight jackets in WWII for airmen operating in Asia. I recommend you Google "blood chit".

You can also find tons of info about your jackets by using the search function on this site. Also, the Vintage Leather Jackets forum specializes in military jackets. You will learn much more through research than we can ever tell you through Q&A.

 

[Anduril]

I’ve got a mid-90’s Vanson in comp weight, and there are a couple puckered/creased spots under the armpit and above the handwarmer pocket where the leather is extremely thin. Is this just compression or stretching of the leather fibers, or is the leather actually wearing out? It’s worth noting that this is only present on one side of the jacket. Curious to hear everyone’s thoughts

 

[Eagledog]

I’ve got a mid-90’s Vanson in comp weight, and there are a couple puckered/creased spots under the armpit and above the handwarmer pocket where the leather is extremely thin. Is this just compression or stretching of the leather fibers, or is the leather actually wearing out? It’s worth noting that this is only present on one side of the jacket. Curious to hear everyone’s thoughts

Looks like it was pinched. Perhaps caught in the lid of a saddle bag or suitcase.
Did Vanson identify this as comp weight for you using the serial number?

 

[Anduril]

Looks like it was pinched. Perhaps caught in the lid of a saddle bag or suitcase.
Did Vanson identify this as comp weight for you using the serial number?

Yes, competition weight cowhide, made in summer of 1994. It’s weird, the pinches are only discernible when the leather drapes a certain way; if I were to hang the jacket and let it drape, it wouldn’t be noticeable. There’s also no scuffing to the topcoat in these areas

 

[LordGodfrey]

I had just been scrolling through eBay about an hour ago and saw this Oakbrook pop up in the "you may also like" section. I jumped at it since it was cheap ($95) compared to what I`ve seen in some threads here. I have also read that there`s a distinction with regards to quality, with the early Oakbrooks being higher in quality than later ones. Is this one of the early ones, and if so, roughly when would it have been made?

 

[dthieu86]

Would you say it’s worth €4,000?

 

[Zoo]

Thoughts on age of this jacket, please?

Thinking of a G1 style jacket. This one's obviously not military, but does have hand warmer pockets and the fur collar is detachable.

Mostly wondering if it's likely old enough to be leather and fur vs more modern materials.
Thanks!

 

[NAB]

Thou

Thoughts on age of this jacket, please?
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Thinking of a G1 style jacket. This one's obviously not military, but does have hand warmer pockets and the fur collar is detachable.

Mostly wondering if it's likely old enough to be leather and fur vs more modern materials.
Thanks!

I'd say late 70s (or possibly early 80s, I'm open to correction on this) and absolutely real leather but with a synthetic collar — these often turn up with tags specifying orlon etc.

 

[aorange]

Hi all, I’m wondering how the armscye placement and circumference actually affects the fit of a jacket.

I’ve owned a Lost Worlds with exceptionally low armholes, they extended about 40% down the length of the jacket. That jacket had an 18” shoulder, and my t-shirts alone measure in at about 18.75”. Nonetheless, i was able to wear the jacket comfortably, despite my shoulder bone sitting a decent bit into the sleeve. Perhaps this is why Stu has the belief that only the chest measurement matters for sizing.

My newest jacket is a Flat Head one, notorious for its “high armholes”. I’d say based on my own cursory measurements, the opening is about 20-30% smaller than the Lost Worlds. I had to actually size the jacket to fit my shoulders properly, and at 19.3” my shoulder bone hits near the seam in a T-shirt and at the seam in a thin sweater.

My questions would be:

1. What’s the actual impact of having more precisely sized armsceye + shoulder? Google tells me that this helps the jacket look sharper and I’d agree, but it could just be my own bias coloring my judgement.

2. If one of my measurements were to increase and cause the higher armholes to dig into my armpit, which measurement would that be?

3. How does sleeve attachment play into all this? I’ve seen some additional discussion regarding that, and, pardon my sartorial naivety, it seems that sleeves would always need to attach to the armscye?

 

[MrProper]

Hi all, I’m wondering how the armscye placement and circumference actually affects the fit of a jacket.

I’ve owned a Lost Worlds with exceptionally low armholes, they extended about 40% down the length of the jacket. That jacket had an 18” shoulder, and my t-shirts alone measure in at about 18.75”. Nonetheless, i was able to wear the jacket comfortably, despite my shoulder bone sitting a decent bit into the sleeve. Perhaps this is why Stu has the belief that only the chest measurement matters for sizing.

My newest jacket is a Flat Head one, notorious for its “high armholes”. I’d say based on my own cursory measurements, the opening is about 20-30% smaller than the Lost Worlds. I had to actually size the jacket to fit my shoulders properly, and at 19.3” my shoulder bone hits near the seam in a T-shirt and at the seam in a thin sweater.

My questions would be:

1. What’s the actual impact of having more precisely sized armsceye + shoulder? Google tells me that this helps the jacket look sharper and I’d agree, but it could just be my own bias coloring my judgement.

2. If one of my measurements were to increase and cause the higher armholes to dig into my armpit, which measurement would that be?

3. How does sleeve attachment play into all this? I’ve seen some additional discussion regarding that, and, pardon my sartorial naivety, it seems that sleeves would always need to attach to the armscye?

At least in my observation, the combination of appropriate P2P, shoulders, and high armholes promises good freedom of movement in the arms without the entire jacket lifting up.
For example, when driving, jackets with high armholes lift up less than those with low armholes and slightly more P2P.
Of course, the stiffness of the leather also plays a role.

 

[tmitchell59]

I had just been scrolling through eBay about an hour ago and saw this Oakbrook pop up in the "you may also like" section. I jumped at it since it was cheap ($95) compared to what I`ve seen in some threads here. I have also read that there`s a distinction with regards to quality, with the early Oakbrooks being higher in quality than later ones. Is this one of the early ones, and if so, roughly when would it have been made?

This is an early Oakbrook label. This label started in the early 1960s. This jacket is from that time frame. The Hercules label was dropped. By this time horsehide was done for Sears. They made a variety of styles under this label. This pic is from the 1962 Sears catalog.

Thoughts on age of this jacket, please?

This one is later than the Oakbrook, The Men's Shop/Leather shop. Interesting with the detachable collar, not seen this. Probably 1970s.

 

[LuddGang]

Does anyone know anything about this Wrangler tag - is it legit? From what era? Google isn’t helping. It’s on a leather jacket I’m considering.

 

[Bluechel]

What model of CR is the rare one made by Schott? Angled front chest pockets? 654? What label? Cactus or Bull? I just found a 46 but it has issues, but I'm willing to go through a cleaning if I can figure out if it's the rare one that everyone seems to love....

 

[Eagledog]

Is this for a display or will you be wearing it? It doesn't make any difference how rare it is if it does not fit. Or is this for a collection to display?

 

[Aloysius]

Would you say it’s worth €4,000?

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I don't know, but it is very cool and a nice change from the stuff we're always seeing.

 

[Bluechel]

Is this for a display or will you be wearing it? It doesn't make any difference how rare it is if it does not fit. Or is this for a collection to display?

No it’s a 46 and fits. No room for display jackets…

 

[Bluechel]

Is this for a display or will you be wearing it? It doesn't make any difference how rare it is if it does not fit. Or is this for a collection to display?

But the question is literally about rarity and admiration. I see a lot of discussion about the “grail”ness of a certain model of cafe racer and I’ve always wondered exactly which one that is? If I’ve stumbled upon one or not, I don’t really know what would make a certain CR so highly regarded. The only Schott CR I love is a 141/641….no exceptions so far.

 

[Eagledog]

But the question is literally about rarity and admiration. I see a lot of discussion about the “grail”ness of a certain model of cafe racer and I’ve always wondered exactly which one that is? If I’ve stumbled upon one or not, I don’t really know what would make a certain CR so highly regarded. The only Schott CR I love is a 141/641….no exceptions so far.

For me it has nothing to do with the age or scarcity of an item. The style has to be a perfect match as well as all the other elements. Exact measurements within .5" everywhere, exact favorite color of the interior and exterior, buttery smooth zipper, grain, thickness, texture, weight of the hyde, comfort and mobility, warmth or lack of depending upon your climate, pockets that are right sized and easy to utilize, collar perfectly sized to match your exact neck size, and no funky aroma. That would be grail.
If any of the elements are missing it would be just another nice jacket.
Any thoughts about it would be better if this or that was different would eliminate it from grail contention.

 

[ABCD]

But the question is literally about rarity and admiration. I see a lot of discussion about the “grail”ness of a certain model of cafe racer and I’ve always wondered exactly which one that is? If I’ve stumbled upon one or not, I don’t really know what would make a certain CR so highly regarded. The only Schott CR I love is a 141/641….no exceptions so far.

This one?

A jacket can be a grail to someone without it being rare. A lot of people would say an original Buco J-24 is a grail jacket, J-24s are plentiful.