Balmoral Boots

[Jovan]

And what Americans call an oxford is ANY shoes that laces up. lol

 

[carter]

Originally posted by Orgetorix
Just to be clear: What Americans call a balmoral is what Brits call an oxford. That is, a shoe with closed lacing, where the throat is sewn under the vamp. The John Spencer boots above, while nice, are not balmoral boots. They're derbies or bluchers, and hence more casual than a bal/oxford boot. This thread was originally about bal boots.

Not to go fftopic: but:

What exactly is/are the difference(s) between Balmoral, Derby, Brogue, and Ankle boots? Does one of these terms fit all the others?
An unenlightened American would like to know.

 

[Orgetorix]

Not to go fftopic: but:

What exactly is/are the difference(s) between Balmoral, Derby, Brogue, and Ankle boots? Does one of these terms fit all the others?
An unenlightened American would like to know.

The terms refer to different characteristics of a boot, some of which can describe the same boot. I'll take them in reverse order.

An ankle boot is any boot the top of which comes up to around the ankle. This is Edward Green's Halifax.

A brogue boot is a boot that has decorative punching, or brogueing, like a wingtip shoe. This is the Sanders Wetherby.

A derby boot is one that has open lacing, where the tongue and the vamp are all one piece. Edward Green's Galway is a cap-toe derby (or blucher) boot.

A balmoral boot is a boot that has closed lacing, and the tongue is a separate piece from the throat and vamp. Edward Green's Shannon is a balmoral boot. The boots that Manton and Will posted earlier in this thread are Shannons.

A boot (or a shoe) cannot be both a balmoral and a derby. Other than that, these four terms can be used of a single boot. The Halifax is a derby ankle boot. The Wetherby is a derby brogue boot. Etc.

 

[carter]

Orgetorix, That was very helpful and informative. Can you shed some light on when each style is/would have been most appropriately worn? Has this changed over the years?

Originally posted by Jovan
And what Americans call an oxford is ANY shoes that laces up.lol

Oh really?

 

[Orgetorix]

Orgetorix, That was very helpful and informative. Can you shed some light on when each style is/would have been most appropriately worn? Has this changed over the years?

The rules for boots are the same as for shoes. Bals are more formal than bluchers, and the more brogueing a shoe has, the more casual it is. The Shannon is the most formal of the above, and is appropriate with suits. The Galway and the Halifax would be appropriate with more casual attire such as odd jackets and trousers. The Wetherby, especially the tan, grained version above, is really a country boot and is most suitable for tweeds, corduroys, and other rustic-type clothing.

That said, the Wetherby is considerably less expensive than the Edward Greens, and I've seriously considered getting a pair in black smooth calf for wear in inclement weather, with all sorts of clothes. The Shannons are way out of my price range, and there isn't another bal boot available in the US that I've found.

 

[carter]

There is a pair of what appear to be 1930's Balmoral Boots on the EBay UK site. They appear to have been dyed white and had rubber attached to the soles. Apparently they were used in Polo. They are a UK 9 were purchased from Harrods.
Other than these, the only boots I saw on that site that I can justify purchasing were Brogue Boots.
BTW, what is a "Dealer" Boot?
I have seen nice ankle boots made by Alden in the US.
I have two pair of boots by Johnston & Murphy. They are not brogued but still would be more a casual or country boot. They'd probably look good with trousers and a hacking jacket. Good luck finding a hacking jacket this side of the pond.

 

[RetroRich]

British Oxford boots purporting to be American Balmorals.

 

[Orgetorix]

BTW, what is a "Dealer" Boot?

'Fraid I can't help you there. I've seen the term, but I don't know what it means.

 

[Orgetorix]

British Oxford boots purporting to be American Balmorals.

Nice, Rich! Are those yours?

 

[RetroRich]

Hi Orgetorix.
They are indeed mine.I worked in a period menswear stop many moons ago & they are from there.I have no idea who the maker is though many of the other shoes(Oxfords,Gibsons,Co-respondants,etc) stocked by the shop were by Trickers.

 

[cookie]

Them Boots

Very elegant in the 1920s era style:eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[carter]

Rich, Very nice boots. They look unworn. Have they ever seen a sidewalk? Carter

 

[RetroRich]

Carter,yes they are unworn.To be honest,they've been languishing in the back of the wardrobe,totally forgotten about.I even sold them to my brother some time ago & he never even wore them!....memo to myself : MUST start wearing them soon or bequeath them to the beast that is known as ebay!!

 

[Jovan]

What size are they? I'm interested.

 

[RetroRich]

BTW, what is a "Dealer" Boot?

Below is a typical British 'Dealer Boot'

They're very popular over here,in different guises,especially amongst the gypsy/travelling community whereby the name may originate.
Throughout the year,up & down the country,horse fairs are held.It is at these fairs,horses are bought & sold..in other words 'deals' concerning the horses are struck.Hundreds of pairs of this style of boot are sold at these fairs.
It's only a theory mind you...any others?

 

[RetroRich]

Jovan,they are size UK11,E Width.

 

[Jovan]

Darn, a bit too big. I'm a US11, which I believe translates to UK10.5.

 

[RetroRich]

Jovan,i'm vacationing in Florida next July..if they're still unworn by then,i'll bring them over with me & you can try them on in person!

 

[Jovan]

If you're anywhere near Gainesville, which I doubt you'll be! But sounds like a plan otherwise.

 

[cookie]

Some Grenson Boots Here

http://www.thenaturalshoestore.com/index.php?m=catalogue&a=vw_sec&cat=1&sec=36