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Can't decide...
- Thread starter Lash
- Start date
Daze
New in Town
- Messages
- 37
Simple , Are you interested in Re-enactment ? if so what period?
If NOT interested in Re-enactment buy them both if cheap enough , and re sell the WW2 one , unless you prefer the look of it more in the mirror
If NOT interested in Re-enactment buy them both if cheap enough , and re sell the WW2 one , unless you prefer the look of it more in the mirror
- Messages
- 6,328
- Location
- South of Nashville
The WWII coat (eight buttons showing) has a lapel that won't lie down the way the military mind thinks it ought to. Because of the design, the lapel is a bit short, and it doesn't have the weight needed to lie flat. So, the Navy went to the six button (showing) peacoat. Those lapels are big enough to lie flat with no problem.
If you don't like the rating patch on the left shoulder, it can be removed with little to no damage to the coat.
I agree you should buy both of them. Then you can wear whichever draws your fancy for the day.
Do you know about sizing? I would refer you to a post I made several months ago, but with the upgrades, I'm not sure where it is. A little tricky, that sizing issue, especially when buying online.
I have written an addition to the Peacoat Dating thread about sizing, but due to the other things gong on with the renovation of the Forum, it may be a few days before we get it on the Lounge. In the meantime I will see if I can find it in a postable form and send it out in a subsequent post in this thread.
If you don't like the rating patch on the left shoulder, it can be removed with little to no damage to the coat.
I agree you should buy both of them. Then you can wear whichever draws your fancy for the day.
Do you know about sizing? I would refer you to a post I made several months ago, but with the upgrades, I'm not sure where it is. A little tricky, that sizing issue, especially when buying online.
I have written an addition to the Peacoat Dating thread about sizing, but due to the other things gong on with the renovation of the Forum, it may be a few days before we get it on the Lounge. In the meantime I will see if I can find it in a postable form and send it out in a subsequent post in this thread.
- Messages
- 6,328
- Location
- South of Nashville
OK, here it is, sizing questions answered:
Peacoats are designed to be trim fit garments for the military physique. I have found the stated size to be an accurate predictor of how the garment will fit. One of our members had a different experience, however, and I have developed this section to ensure a good fit for a peacoat bought from an online vendor, such as Ebay.
A properly fitted peacoat will be trim without being tight. There will be enough room to wear a sweater underneath without binding. A sweater may be necessary to fill in the space between the body and the inside of the coat for really cold weather wear. It slows the flow of cold air and adds insulation. For example, my suit size is a 42. I wear a size 42 peacoat and have enough room underneath for a sweater. I can also wear a size 40 peacoat, but the fit is a little tighter and the arms are a little shorter than I like. Plus, with a sweater, it is a bit too tight for me.
I have found that the earlier the peacoat, the tighter the fit. For example, my size 42 WWII peacoat fits more like a 40/41 in the chest. The coats after WWII have a little more room in the chest, perhaps 1/2" to 3/4". It isn't a big difference, but it is something to be aware of if considering a WWII peacoat.
When I want a chest measurement, I ask the seller to button the buttons and place the peacoat chest up on a flat surface. The material should be stretched tight to remove the wrinkles, both front and rear, and then allowed to relax. The measurement is then taken across the chest from just under one armpit to just under the other armpit.
The resulting measurement will probably be a whole number and a fraction. Disregard the fraction. Multiply the whole number by 2 and then subtract 2" from the result. This (subtracting the 2") will give the actual chest size of the garment, even though the measurement is taken from the outside.
As an example, I would expect a size 44 peacoat to measure a little over 23" across the chest--say 23 1/4". Disregard the 1/4" and multiply the 23 by 2 = 46. Then subtract 2", which gives a true size of 44. In order to get your true chest size, take a measurement around your bare chest (or wearing just a T-shirt) where it is the largest. If you don't have a fabric tape measure, use a piece of string and then get the measurement in inches from a yardstick or ruler. Best to use a fabric tape measure (available at fabric stores) as the chance of inducing an error is reduced.
This is a simple but effective way to determine the true chest size, with or without a tag. I have found the stated chest size to always be accurate; however, as mentioned earlier, one of our posters found this wasn't the situation with a peacoat he bought on Ebay. Therefore, I always recommend that buyers get a chest measurement using the method explained above.
Even though trim fitting, there is a lot of leeway in the sizing of peacoats. Even if one has lost the athletic build of youth, the coat will probably fit if the proper chest size is obtained. Of course if the measurement around the abdomen is a great deal larger than around the chest, a peacoat may not be the best choice.
Peacoats are designed to be trim fit garments for the military physique. I have found the stated size to be an accurate predictor of how the garment will fit. One of our members had a different experience, however, and I have developed this section to ensure a good fit for a peacoat bought from an online vendor, such as Ebay.
A properly fitted peacoat will be trim without being tight. There will be enough room to wear a sweater underneath without binding. A sweater may be necessary to fill in the space between the body and the inside of the coat for really cold weather wear. It slows the flow of cold air and adds insulation. For example, my suit size is a 42. I wear a size 42 peacoat and have enough room underneath for a sweater. I can also wear a size 40 peacoat, but the fit is a little tighter and the arms are a little shorter than I like. Plus, with a sweater, it is a bit too tight for me.
I have found that the earlier the peacoat, the tighter the fit. For example, my size 42 WWII peacoat fits more like a 40/41 in the chest. The coats after WWII have a little more room in the chest, perhaps 1/2" to 3/4". It isn't a big difference, but it is something to be aware of if considering a WWII peacoat.
When I want a chest measurement, I ask the seller to button the buttons and place the peacoat chest up on a flat surface. The material should be stretched tight to remove the wrinkles, both front and rear, and then allowed to relax. The measurement is then taken across the chest from just under one armpit to just under the other armpit.
The resulting measurement will probably be a whole number and a fraction. Disregard the fraction. Multiply the whole number by 2 and then subtract 2" from the result. This (subtracting the 2") will give the actual chest size of the garment, even though the measurement is taken from the outside.
As an example, I would expect a size 44 peacoat to measure a little over 23" across the chest--say 23 1/4". Disregard the 1/4" and multiply the 23 by 2 = 46. Then subtract 2", which gives a true size of 44. In order to get your true chest size, take a measurement around your bare chest (or wearing just a T-shirt) where it is the largest. If you don't have a fabric tape measure, use a piece of string and then get the measurement in inches from a yardstick or ruler. Best to use a fabric tape measure (available at fabric stores) as the chance of inducing an error is reduced.
This is a simple but effective way to determine the true chest size, with or without a tag. I have found the stated chest size to always be accurate; however, as mentioned earlier, one of our posters found this wasn't the situation with a peacoat he bought on Ebay. Therefore, I always recommend that buyers get a chest measurement using the method explained above.
Even though trim fitting, there is a lot of leeway in the sizing of peacoats. Even if one has lost the athletic build of youth, the coat will probably fit if the proper chest size is obtained. Of course if the measurement around the abdomen is a great deal larger than around the chest, a peacoat may not be the best choice.
I've read the peacoat dating thread, and I think I'll be ok with sizing since I have bought pea coats in the past. However, I've never had a WW2 pea coat and so the thing about the lapels is new to me. So the WW2 coat's lapels will not lie flat? I don't really understand that, do you mind explaining a bit more?
- Messages
- 6,328
- Location
- South of Nashville
Only one lapel won't lie flat, not both of them. It is the left or outside lapel. See my post above--response #3, or here it is again:
"The WWII coat (eight buttons showing) has a lapel that won't lie down the way the military mind thinks it ought to. Because of the design, the lapel is a bit short, and it doesn't have the weight needed to lie flat."
The left lapel sticks out at about a 30 to 45 degree angle. For the past year I have had a clamp on my WWII left lapel to see if it can be trained to lie flat. The person wearing the peacoat doesn't really notice the wayward flap, but it is visible to others.
"The WWII coat (eight buttons showing) has a lapel that won't lie down the way the military mind thinks it ought to. Because of the design, the lapel is a bit short, and it doesn't have the weight needed to lie flat."
The left lapel sticks out at about a 30 to 45 degree angle. For the past year I have had a clamp on my WWII left lapel to see if it can be trained to lie flat. The person wearing the peacoat doesn't really notice the wayward flap, but it is visible to others.
sbhva
Familiar Face
- Messages
- 72
- Location
- Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA
Peacoat;
Thanks for posting your method of sizing using the "pit to pit" measurement. I had never thought of the 2" subtraction to account for the thickness of the coat material. Since you are subtracting 2" for the relatively thin wool of the pea coat, what would you recommend to subtract for a sheepskin flight jacket (B3, Irvin, etc)? Do you think 4" would work, or more/less?
Thanks for posting your method of sizing using the "pit to pit" measurement. I had never thought of the 2" subtraction to account for the thickness of the coat material. Since you are subtracting 2" for the relatively thin wool of the pea coat, what would you recommend to subtract for a sheepskin flight jacket (B3, Irvin, etc)? Do you think 4" would work, or more/less?
- Messages
- 6,328
- Location
- South of Nashville
The peacoat sizing post, above, has now been added to the Peacoat Dating thread, for future reference.
The 2" method works for peacoats and probably for leather jackets, although I have done no extensive testing with the leather jackets. That may be my next quick project. When the coats get thicker than that, say for a B3, I am in uncharted waters.
The 2" method works for peacoats and probably for leather jackets, although I have done no extensive testing with the leather jackets. That may be my next quick project. When the coats get thicker than that, say for a B3, I am in uncharted waters.
