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Favorite jacket? Owned or dreamed of.

Peter Bowden

Practically Family
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598
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united kingdom
Searching for a dream jacket led me to this site which I don't recall being mentioned on the Lounge
https://bamfstyle.com/menu/
Being a movie fan,one of my favourite outfits is Clint Eastwood's in Joe Kidd
 

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El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,453
Location
California
Great picture. What’s the status of the new Chopper?
Spoke to Constantine last Tuesday and he told me it would probably be another couple weeks. He said that they have a big backlog on custom orders right now and that they are moving as fast as they can to get through it.
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,296
Location
Iowa
I am an electrician and I wear my leather jackets to work almost every day as well, when the weather permits. There are a couple exceptions of course, I do not wear my GW jackets because I do worry about messing them up. Anything by Vanson or LW though is fair game.
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Nice double knee Carhartt's! I have a hard time picturing wearing any leather for electrician work, but if it works for you, great!!

Taking me a bit to decide what my favorite one is - any suggestions? :)
 

Bushman

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4,138
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Joliet
Nah. Nothing can beat a well fitting jacket with some character. I’ve learned this. Thankfully because of places like this which are both good and bad. You guys feed my addiction!
Agreed about a well fighting jacket. Jackets are, unfortunately for me, a touchy item. I've got a tall torso, short arms, and the general build of a 5ft 10in linebacker. I've tried on motojackets, Perfecto style jackets, whatever you wanna call them, many times and I've yet to find one that fits my body style. Last one I tried on, the body stopped at my navel, and the arms were at least four inches past my fingertips. I admire the look, but I just don't have the body for 'em.

And this place is definitely bad for my wallet.
To me the difference is between "show clothing" and "functional clothing"...

When i look at the condition of most boots worn here, they have crossed into similar territory (show clothing), people wear big old leather work boots that cost 1500$ and only use them to walk on paved sidewalks, greasing and brushing them on a regular basis, keeping them brand new looking.

To me boots have to remain functional clothing, i wear boots daily because i never want what i have on my feet to hold me back in anything i do. Whether i am unloading flightcases out of a van, working in the woods, crawling under a car, having to walk in mud, i never want to think "crap, i am going to ruin my shoes".
I can take a jacket off if i am afraid i might damage it, i am not running around bare feet to save my boots.
Once again, @Dav is probably the only user i see who is using expensive boots like that.

For me RedWings is the right compromise, they are high quality enough that i feel i am wearing quality, but cheap enough that i don't care too much about actually using them for what they are. Personally i would not have the heart to do the same thing if i wore boots made by Bryan the bootmaker, they would probably still look brand new...
I spend a lot of time on my feet, outside, and the durability, waterproofing, and comfort of my boots are very important to me. I've got a pair of Red Wing Iron Rangers from the store in town that I use as dress boots, but usually wear my Carolina Loggers as my main boots. I've got a pair of steel toe for work, and a pair without for leisure. They're the most durable, most comfortable leather work boot I've ever found. I slip in one of those Dr. Scholl inserts in there for added comfort, and my feet never hurt at the end of the day. I've really no use for boots that can't perform. I've also got a few sneakers for leisure, but they almost never get worn outside of the summer months. I get too tempted to take a stroll through the mud.
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Not my experience, but climate and individual tolerances vary a lot. I'd wear leather through the Summer if I was capable of liking the perforated stuff... ;) As a rule, though, I prefer natural materials over manmade.
Many of the variations in our individual clothing preferences are largely attributable to climate, lifestyle, and employment factors. If you live in a particularly cold environment and/or work in harsh conditions, your clothing preferences will likely be materially different than someone who lives in a warmer climate and/or rides a desk. Loggers wear different clothing than pharmacists. Golfers wear different clothing than bikers, and bowlers wear different clothing than backpackers.
I'm very much on this train. As I mentioned, I may spend a considerable amount of work time outside, but I could not wear a jacket for the life of me in these humid Illinois summers. It's just not a thing that can happen. When the rain, wind, and weather comes flying in the Spring and Autumn months, I run right for my A2. There's nothing better that I'd like protecting my back than waterproof, wind blocking leather, but even the lightest leather patterns are pretty much an absolute no-go between mid-June and mid-October here.

Not to mention, I've always overheated easily, and leather being a material with no breathability, I physically cannot stand it.

While I love vintage inspired clothing, I do not cultivate a purely vintage look. Rather, I mix and match vintage inspired clothing with more contemporary clothing (particularly sneakers).
I've very much in the same boat. I mix and match. I wear a lot of denim jeans, and dress shorts, sometimes with button-up shirts, but for the most part it's a half and half style. Whatever looks good under the hat.

T-shirts – not undershirts, but t-shirts worn as a top layer clothing article – are important to me and I pay for quality. The fabric, weave, and collar construction are materially different on higher quality t-shirts and the price differential is worth it to me. Again, this is influenced by my climate, where t-shirts are often my only top layer. If I lived in a colder climate where t-shirts are always buried under other layers, I might feel differently.
I have a mix. Sometimes undershirts remain undershirts, sometimes undershirt are used as regular t-shirts, sometimes it's just a regular t-shirt, sometimes there's no undershirt at all. Chicagoland is known for its unpredictable weather patterns. There may be a snowstorm on Tuesday and beach weather on Thursday. It happens, and that means layers. In our Spring and Autumn months you can freeze in the morning, and get into shorts weather by mid-day. When I went to college in the city, you'd often hear the professors reminding the out of towner students to layer, layer, layer.

I frequently wear flannels as my top layer during the winter. As with t-shirts, the fabric, weave, and construction is markedly different on higher quality flannels and the price differential is worth it to me.
I'm a fellow flannel wearer, and flannels are one of the few clothing items I'm willing to put down good money on other than footwear and leather jackets. I will never underestimate the warmth and durability of a well built flannel.

As for the subject of Wrangler jeans vs other brands, I've never found Wranglers to be any better than other high-end store-bought brands like Land's End or Eddie Bauer. I usually pick up a pair or two of either whenever they go on sale, and they usually last me a few years. I've bought Wrangler brand before, and have always found them to be uncomfortable and ill-fitting to my body shape. I'll never bother with them again.

If we're gonna discuss JUST leather jackets, then my F-Jackets Reeve's for its lightweight leather:
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And my LL Bean A-2 for its med-heavy weight leather are definitely my top two.
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Superfluous

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Missing in action
Do you the Buco better than the Kensington? If so why?

Yes, for a few reasons. First, the Buco is worn-in and oozes character. Given my limited opportunities to wear my jackets and the sheer number of jackets in my rotation, it will take me decades to wear-in my Kensingtons to a similar degree. Second, while my Kensingtons fit great, my Buco is like a second skin. Third, the Buco brand has its roots in the origins of cafe racers (along with several other manufacturers), and my Kensingtons simply do not have that historical back-story. Fourth, I hunted for the perfect (for me) Buco for several years and the successful completion of that hunt contributes to the pleasure derived from the jacket. To be clear, I love my two Kensingtons, but my Buco is unique within my collection.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
I live in a city. I walk a bit (couple of miles a day) but very rarely where there is grass. The weather here is mild to hot. I drive a car. I can't understand the need in cities for massive soles or long boots that make your feet stink. :D All I need in a boot comes made here for around $100 (although they have gone up). They are more than a match for any leather jacket I might wear. My friends wear sneakers or flip flops - I don't own either.

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navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,697
Location
East Java
I made this argument to my wife once who had a succinct and reasonable reply. “People in Vietnam need to eat too.” While i agree the exploitation is real, is their situation improved by me choosing not to by products made there? There is NOWHERE near enough concern about this globally to effect actual change. “Doing my part” may just be an emotional bandaid.
Your wife is right, if all tshirts in the world priced at $40 per piece, it wont make people in vietnam or bangladesh have decent living by western standard, instead it would make the whole south east asia topless not being able to afford buying tshirt. $12 tshirt doesnt mean people working there is abused. Its just different economy different currency exchange rate. I can eat a very fulfilling meal here in a decent restaurant for under $2. $12 tshirt here is seen as rather expensive t-shirt, probably close to the price of locally made shirt.
 
Messages
16,932
Location
Chicago
I have a few favorites.

Sierra Sportswear mid 40s Horshide half-belt with gathered sides. I'm guessing that Sierra was a label and not a maker.

It has the fit I'm looking for. The gathered sides really work well.

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Sweet baby Jesus. If the time ever comes. You know who to call.
 

sweetfights

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3,212
Location
Canada
Yes, for a few reasons. First, the Buco is worn-in and oozes character. Given my limited opportunities to wear my jackets and the sheer number of jackets in my rotation, it will take me decades to wear-in my Kensingtons to a similar degree. Second, while my Kensingtons fit great, my Buco is like a second skin. Third, the Buco brand has its roots in the origins of cafe racers (along with several other manufacturers), and my Kensingtons simply do not have that historical back-story. Fourth, I hunted for the perfect (for me) Buco for several years and the successful completion of that hunt contributes to the pleasure derived from the jacket. To be clear, I love my two Kensingtons, but my Buco is unique within my collection.

Thank you Superfluous.! Do you think given 20 years of wear the Kensington would fit like a second skin?
 

sweetfights

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3,212
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Canada
I’ll be honest, the repro market has left me extremely bored. That said. I agree! That’s a jacket I’d love to own and I’m damn sure I’d wear the piss out of it. I suspect I have a better chance at riding a rainbow unicorn though.
I hear you!! Strangers things have happened...
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,697
Location
East Java
I’ll be honest, the repro market has left me extremely bored. That said. I agree! That’s a jacket I’d love to own and I’m damn sure I’d wear the piss out of it. I suspect I have a better chance at riding a rainbow unicorn though.
ooh this post has made several leather jacket repro makers thinking of downsizing their business:D
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,694
Location
London, UK
But that's the thing - Shoe makers get to be a lot more creative, so to say, and not just with details but with the shape as well as footwear doesn't get warped by the wearer and always looks how the maker intended. So even if the market was larger, it would come down to knock-offs to fill in the price gap and I don't think that anyone who's done enough research to know exactly what they want, would resort to buying off brand copies.

Sure, nobodsy looking at Clinch is likely to turn aroun and buy a pair of Grinders, but my point was more that with engineers being such a niche, there's not the demand for a range of options the way there are with jackets. Say you want an A2 or a G1 style - there are options from the very basic, general look if not all the details from $100, mid-price options at around $400, high end stuff like Aero at, what, closing in on a grand US? Goodqwear a bit above that, and then ELC and the Japanese makers with prices that are jus astronomical. With engineer boots now, especially with Chippewa and RedWing seemingly backing away from the style, it's increasingly the case that there's the bottom end of the market, mall-type stuff, then it's a huge jump to Wesco, then another huge jump to the likes of Clinch. I suspect that if there was a bigger market for these boots, we'd start to see a lot more options in and around the various price bands, for the guys who want something better than the budget lines, but can't stretch to the Clinch end of things.

These Japanese boots don't really look like the original, 50's Engineer boots. That's the beauty of it. They've evolved into their own thing. All these boots have the exaggerated, almost cartoony vibe which I believe is based on very well worn vintage examples, boots that have been shaped by the wearer to the extreme cuz new Engineers back then actually looked a lot more like Chippewas today - or rather like Wellies with a strap.

Ha, I think that's a bit cruel, but yeah.... it's certainly true that the cheapest of Engineer boots have no real shape. Better ones I've had, including RedWings and Chippewas, echo more the curve of the calf muscle and have a defined heel cap. Neither my RWs or my Chips need an insole - commonly with cheaper boots, not having laces to adjust them, I notice they are commonly too loose and need an insole to snug them up for comfortable wear.

Snugger fit definityely seems to be something which comes as you go up the cost-scale (as expected).

The cartoony, exaggerated but subtly so thing does seem to be part of how they do things in Japan; I would agree that it's a lot to do with replicating the look as was worn rather than as they were new. Nto dissimilar to the 'tea core' hides being designed to age much faster than standard.

I believe it's all about the form and the details with these boots. Engineers are always one step apart from being the most boring boots in the world or the coolest ones, if you'll pardon the horrible pun.

It'sw the utilitarian simplicity I like, really, though it's certainly true two boots can have the same exact features but look very different indeed.

Anyway, all I'm saying is that I personally see what makes Clinch special and what is it about their boots that you can't get elsewhere else. Sure, it costs a lot, much more than I could ever spare on a pair of boots ('cause yeah, I'd literally dread to wear them) but with Clinch, you are paying for something that's entirely unique.

Yes, that's exactly the point. They are fantastic - I've handled them, I certainly wouldn't say no to a pair, though I'm not sure how comfortable I would be paying UK1500 for some boots; at half that, I'd likely try and manage it. What they have to offer really is different to the rest of the market, though my opiion still remains that if there was enough market demand that there were half a dozen makers producing these, I don't think they'd be able to charge quite so much - in part what they charging for is the intangible exclusivity.

I'd love to handle a pair of Clinches back to back with some Lewis A10 Mechanic boots - a more English (low-heeled and slimmer) take on the engineer boot. At £400, I've considered those, but I think I'd rather have a pair of Westways. The zipped-up, snugger fit of the latte would go better with a kilt, too. Which is a consideration - as I drop the excess weight slowly, I want to wear a kilt more often.

Rather, I am very focused on color palettes. For example, the color of my sneakers ties in to the color of my shirt – not necessarily the same color, but the same palette. I wear earth tones together, and blacks/grays together, and I do not wear brown sneakers with a black t-shirt (or vice-versa). I even match my sunglasses, baseball caps, and socks (I don’t match my boxers). Yes, I have severe OCD.

Whatever people wear, it always benefits from a little bit of thought into co-ordination.

I wear sneakers, rather than boots, because they are exponentially more comfortable and I have no need for the benefits derived from boots. Frankly, the widespread patronage of boots by desk riding urban dwellers never ceases to amaze me. My sneaker choices are driven primarily by comfort and aesthetics.

It's the same thing, really - comfort and aesthetics. Casually, I'm much more comfortable with my feet in a good, leather boot or brogue. I used to wear gutties years ago; spent most of my university years in boots, and then I had a couple of pairs of trainers again after that, purely for hotter weather. Learned over time though that I was not any cooler in a pair of canvas gutties than a leather shoe, and so I've not had any trainers now in well over a decade. If I feel the need in the heat, I'll switch to a pair of penny loafers or saddle shoes. I'm toying with the idea next year of trying some perforated leather co-respondents. I'm just physically more comfortable in a well-made leather shoe - but then I find physical comfort is wholly subjective. I'm also more comfrotable, physically, in a well-fitting suit than I could ever possibly be in "athletic leisurewear". Aesthetics can come into play - I would never wear what I consider an ugly shoe, which includes for me 99% of training shoes, but all the same there are plenty of those I think look great - they're just not for me.

Once you get beyond the dense, heavy Japanese denim, the difference in quality between a $400 pair of jeans and a $200 pair of jeans becomes less relevant to me. That said, I still perceive a relevant difference between $200 jeans and $50 jeans.

This goes back to the law of diminishing returns, and where we choose jump off the train...

I could continue ad nauseam. I have strong subjective opinions regarding most of my clothing choices. Like I said, OCD is my friend.

I remember Andrew - Aswatland as he used to post here - saying once that "all men are a bit autistic" - in the contest of hobbies and clothes. When you compare how men look at 'vintage' in the broadest sense to them women, he wasn't far wrong IMO. I mean, if we were the sort of people, like most of my relatives, for whom clothes are ephemeral and really only there to provide warmth, pockets in which to carry stuff, and avoid arrest for exposure, none of this would matter to us. But here we are...

I know I get intensely annoyed if I wear a brown belt weith black shoes by accident, or I go out without a pocket square....

I live in a city. I walk a bit (couple of miles a day) but very rarely where there is grass. The weather here is mild to hot. I drive a car. I can't understand the need in cities for massive soles or long boots that make your feet stink. :D All I need in a boot comes made here for around $100 (although they have gone up). They are more than a match for any leather jacket I might wear. My friends wear sneakers or flip flops - I don't own either.
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Of course, if we go back to "necessity", we'd all be wearing either a cotton jumpsuit of some Star Trek design, or we'd still be dressing like Fred Flintstone...
 

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