Five Star Leather Jackets

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead, Sep 23, 2020.

  1. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,428
    Location:
    SoCal
    Yes, everyone who has received a Five Star jacket- please post your genuine thoughts on leather, and quality. Trying to be nice doesn’t really help us who are waiting in the wings. Things like “quick to respond” and “good for the money” don’t quell my trepidation.
    Thank you :)
     
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  2. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead A-List Customer

    Messages:
    318
    So Shawn mentioned HH still on back order from Brazil. Covid delays. But he does have buffalo. I can ask about the colors, but looking at the jackets on the website, only seems to be in distressed. I'm leaning towards buffalo, but I'm going to wait to see how some of the premium goat jackets turn out from some of you.

    Also, I asked him about the different kinds of A2s. I know they're supposed to fit differently from the original designs, but what they're doing is more of a copy of the pockets, epaulets, etc. They're not really recreating the dimensions, so that's really up to you. I guess that's cool if you liked one of the designs better, but didn't like it slim fitting or vice versa. For instance, I think one of the original A2s is the most slim fitting in body and sleeves, but has that complex zipper system. So if you like the Werber pattern more, you can still make it slim fitting by giving them your custom specs.

    Anyway, I'm going to stew on it for another week or two while the rest of you continue to act as guinea pigs :D But I'm leaning towards getting an A2 or maybe the Amelia Earhart style. For roughly $250, I've definitely done a lot worse with some of my purchases.
     
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  3. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,900
    Location:
    Chicago
    As soon as I saw this shot from @CBI I was convinced to give 5 Star a go:
    [​IMG]
     
  4. MrProper

    MrProper Practically Family

    Messages:
    563
    I think it's not that easy, because everyone's taste and demands will be a little different.
    My first jacket was the seal-colored semi veg tanned premium goatskin. Unfortunately did not match my desired dimensions and was altered by 5*. One of my favorite jackets ever since. I think it fits perfectly, the leather is thick without being too hard and will certainly get better and better over the years. In my opinion, the workmanship is flawless, at least I would not have noticed anything negative. A great jacket for my needs that I would order again and again. Number 2 was my Cossack jacket made of steerhide. But this is not the leather that 5* usually uses, but something that is bought in. The 5* Steerhide seems a bit thicker and better, but was not in stock. Communication didn't work out. My measurements were kept so far, but the jacket looks a bit bigger, probably because the leather is a little less stiff. Made properly wet and now it fits very well. I also like to wear this jacket. But again I would only use the 5* leather with 1.4 mm. My capeskin/lambskin vest is nice, but the leather is too thin. I wanted it like that, but thought it was a bit more solid. Pretty good as a vest, but I wouldn't recommend it as a jacket. There is very little grain. Number 4 is my trucker made of premium semi veg tanned goatskin in russet, which is more like chocolate. All dimensions as desired, only the neck hole could be slightly smaller. I didn't pay attention to that. I also wear this jacket quite often as it is the most summery in terms of style. But I wouldn't order a Russet again for a new jacket because the top coat seems a bit too thick to me. I don't notice that with seal. With the Trucker, a tiny piece of seam on the sleeve isn't perfect, but that's not important to me. I replaced the buttons because I didn't like them that much. In general, it can be said that the buttons are likely to be sewn on again. With the Cossack, I used it straight away to sew a contrasting thread. I would no longer pay the surcharge for horn buttons, but would then exchange the desired buttons myself.
    I myself only have jackets from Aero and Field Leathers from Horsehide and they are something else, but also cost four times as much. Everyday jackets, test pieces to try out measurements or cuts, jackets according to photos or other personal wishes, 5* is great for that. I would probably buy collector's items from other brands. But 5* is still at the beginning. They have only just discovered what potential they have.
    So if you have similar tastes and requirements as I do, I can definitely recommend 5*. For someone who counts the number of stitches and wants the ultimate in perfect craftsmanship, I'd rather recommend Fieldleathers ;-)
     
  5. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead A-List Customer

    Messages:
    318
    thanks for your thoughts. Seems like the consensus so far at least is premium Seal goat. And looks like buffalo is in the running too. Which of your jackets had the premium goat? Was it the Amelia Earhart one? I'm looking at that as I like the collar style better than the A2.
     
    Jin431 likes this.
  6. MrProper

    MrProper Practically Family

    Messages:
    563
    yes the Amelia Earhart one is the premium seal and the Trucker is the premium russet. Premium goat is thicker (1.2 mm instead of 1 mm) and semi veg
     
  7. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead A-List Customer

    Messages:
    318
    Is that the premium goat or buffalo?
     
  8. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead A-List Customer

    Messages:
    318
    fantastic. do you mind posting a few photos when you get a chance and let me know measurements. I think we're pretty close in size.
     
  9. MrProper

    MrProper Practically Family

    Messages:
    563
    russet premium goat
    IMG_5359.jpeg

    seal premium goat
    IMG_5360.jpeg
     
    bn1966 and ton312 like this.
  10. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,900
    Location:
    Chicago
    I believe that’s seal cow actually
     
  11. MrProper

    MrProper Practically Family

    Messages:
    563
    with pleasure.
    435B40B4-784C-45C2-850E-47A9CCCAF19D.jpeg BE901627-DCB3-4766-B059-6A6BE299568E.jpeg BB659036-1912-488F-8AD2-069CECBBC169.jpeg AA26FD62-43BD-4925-8403-2D3A86F4FD8D.jpeg 9B905469-404C-47A9-8A6F-79BBE0558C7A.jpeg 672B5C02-1555-4AA2-87CC-819B553556B5.jpeg 71E0A4C1-542F-4904-B0F7-511F61ACD95B.jpeg 4EDBF72A-8286-4EAE-B502-6D9A4131ACBD.jpeg C4E67A12-B8D0-4BDF-BE0F-281E309C5F71.jpeg 6DFEECDB-4CBF-4F01-BCFF-BD6AB11E03F7.jpeg
     
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  12. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,900
    Location:
    Chicago
    Zoo, bn1966 and MrProper like this.
  13. MrProper

    MrProper Practically Family

    Messages:
    563
    This was my order so you can see how detailed it was:
    • Heavy weight, thick (>= 1.3 mm), matt, veg tanned goat leather in seal brown with black knitting in wool and black thread
    • The front should be like that of the G1 so that the zipper is not covered.
    • The back should be like that of the A-2. So one part and no bi-swing-back.
    • No epaulets. I think the G1 doesn't have one either.
    • Armpits with narrow gussets like the G1. You can guess them on the original picture. They are very subtle.
    • Collar like the Aviatrix. But I think, on this retro model, the knit is too low. Probably 1/3 or 1/4 more height would be better. See the original picture.
    • Talon zipper nickel/silver
    • The pockets as in the original picture. Double seam. Pocket flap with button like the G1, not curved, but straight. The same thick leather as the rest of the jacket. In the picture you can see that the pocket is quite thick and robust. Edges slightly rounded. Hem rolled, also on the reverse side. Button not made of plastic, but e.g. horn
    • Cotton drill lining. Olive or seal brown?
    • The fit should be like the example picture. Close to the body and well-fitting, but without being skin-tight. No boxy shoulders, so the right angle from neck to shoulder is important. The sleeves must not be too wide and the armpit holes must not be too large. I measured other jackets. See link.
    • Label. Up to you. You are the manufacturer ;)
    Dimensions:
    Shoulder width: 50 cm
    Pit2Pit: 59 cm
    Waist and Hip: 50 cm
    Knitting on hip: 49 cm
    Back: 69 cm or 70 cm
    Sleeve length: 73 cm
    Neck inner circumference: ca. 45 cm.
    Sleeve width upper arm: ca. 22 cm (44 cm or 45 cm circumference)
    Sleeve wrist: 26 cm circumference
    Please See also the picture with the dimensions behind the link.
     
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  14. Bahabp100

    Bahabp100 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    165
    How much was the custom order ?
     
  15. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead A-List Customer

    Messages:
    318
    amazing. but you nailed that fit. you got a few inches on me, so I'm going to copy your measurements and shave off a little bit here and there. But I'm really getting close to pulling the trigger on this. I'll call it the "Mr. Proper" spec LOL.

    I think I just need a few more examples of the premium goat seal vs. buffalo and I'll add my name to the list of guinea pigs.
     
  16. MrProper

    MrProper Practically Family

    Messages:
    563
    I don't know about this jacket, but for the other jackets the surcharge were 20 or 25 EUR. For the Cossack, Shawn first made a mockup and sent me the pictures. Only after my ok was the actual jacket made.
    This jacket was 280 EUR incl. shipping with DHL Express.
     
  17. MrProper

    MrProper Practically Family

    Messages:
    563
    Here is an Excel sheet that you can use to roughly experiment with the dimensions. Body measurements are always the basis.

    https://www.icloud.com/iclouddrive/0jMnpWYnVlqP84flBTLHnihqA#jacket_measurements
     
  18. bn1966

    bn1966 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,611
    Location:
    UK
    Just caught sight of a 5* C-3 shearling type ‘Biker’ vest on FB..looks very nice..would quite like one with a B-3 type front pocket :)
     
  19. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,428
    Location:
    SoCal
    Thank you @MrProper !
    This is exactly the type of info that will help us all to get a great jacket from Five Star.
    Your insights are invaluable.
    Others, please contribute like this, and don’t hold back. :)
     
    RILO and ton312 like this.

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