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Five Star Leather Jackets

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,539
Location
Switzerland
@ton312 For me, that would be at least the other dimensions (marked in red) that I would pass on to 5*. But of course you have enough experience with orders from 5*, so just a little tip from me ;)

FL_Ton312_Front.jpeg


FL_Ton312_Back.jpg
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,146
Location
Chicago
@ton312 For me, that would be at least the other dimensions (marked in red) that I would pass on to 5*. But of course you have enough experience with orders from 5*, so just a little tip from me ;)

View attachment 517107

View attachment 517110
Some of those I can’t provide without the jacket itself. Since they have built this one before
IMG_5473.jpeg

It looks like some of those dimensions are already on the pattern. The above jacket is a size 52”.
 

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,539
Location
Switzerland
Some of those I can’t provide without the jacket itself. Since they have built this one before
View attachment 517111
It looks like some of those dimensions are already on the pattern. The above jacket is a size 52”.
@ton312 I see it that way too, especially the dimensions of the applications. They look balanced on the jacket pictured, nice design. Nevertheless, I would forward the following measurements from a jacket that fits you, any way (it takes a little time to measure a jacket thoroughly, but in the end it's worth it):
  • Front length (Zipper length)
  • Back length (collar seam to bottom)
  • Collar height/width
  • Sleeve straight/curved
  • Sleeve biceps
  • sleeve elbows
  • arm hole
  • Collar seam to lowest point of armhole straight
  • Collar seam to shoulder tip
  • Cuff opening
  • Chest P2P
  • Front on naval
  • Bottom opening
  • Front drop
  • Back lenght center
  • Back lenght side
  • Shoulder across back
It is well known how the guys from 5* work. They make patterns from the measurements they are given (the more the better) and then tailor a jacket in the manner of a suit (a waistcoat). This also results in the well-known problem with the missing sleeve rotation. I don't think this will change any time soon either. FL had the same problems at the beginning, but has now learned a lot about this and also about his shoulder configuration.
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,146
Location
Chicago
@ton312 I see it that way too, especially the dimensions of the applications. They look balanced on the jacket pictured, nice design. Nevertheless, I would forward the following measurements from a jacket that fits you, any way (it takes a little time to measure a jacket thoroughly, but in the end it's worth it):
  • Front length (Zipper length)
  • Back length (collar seam to bottom)
  • Collar height/width
  • Sleeve straight/curved
  • Sleeve biceps
  • sleeve elbows
  • arm hole
  • Collar seam to lowest point of armhole straight
  • Collar seam to shoulder tip
  • Cuff opening
  • Chest P2P
  • Front on naval
  • Bottom opening
  • Front drop
  • Back lenght center
  • Back lenght side
  • Shoulder across back
It is well known how the guys from 5* work. They make patterns from the measurements they are given (the more the better) and then tailor a jacket in the manner of a suit (a waistcoat). This also results in the well-known problem with the missing sleeve rotation. I don't think this will change any time soon either. FL had the same problems at the beginning, but has now learned a lot about this and also about his shoulder configuration.
I think, looking back at my 5* the sleeve issue is born of the two panel design. The three panels, I never had pant leg sleeves.
IMG_5524.jpeg
IMG_9194.jpeg
IMG_8623.jpeg
IMG_5263.jpeg

Once the change to 2 panels happened, all my sleeves were wrong. So I requested the 3 panel, which somehow fixes the curvature/ rotation problem. Hopefully.
 

Hobbes1

A-List Customer
Messages
382

Observe

One Too Many
Messages
1,015
My jacket has been completed and they've sent me pictures for review. Is it just me or is the left pocket noticeably higher than the right?

Edit: I asked them about it and they said it's just the angle of the photos. I went ahead with the order.
IMG20230516115623.jpg
IMG20230516115045.jpg
 
Last edited:

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,885
Location
Europe
My jacket has been completed and they've sent me pictures for review. Is it just me or is the left pocket noticeably higher than the right?

Edit: I asked them about it and they said it's just the angle of the photos. I went ahead with the order.
View attachment 517889 View attachment 517890
Ask for better pictures.
It seems strange to me that only the one pocket appears bigger, but everything else does not. Neither the collar, the sleeves nor the hem look different.
 

Observe

One Too Many
Messages
1,015
Ask for better pictures.
It seems strange to me that only the one pocket appears bigger, but everything else does not. Neither the collar, the sleeves nor the hem look different.
I'll ask but since I already gave the green light based on their explanation it may be too late.
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,885
Location
Europe
Got some more pics, it's looking good to me, within tolerance for sure. I'm gonna stop nitpicking and wait for it to be in my hands for further review.
View attachment 517899 View attachment 517900 View attachment 517901
Well then, that's good ;-)
Depending on who is measuring and taking the pictures at 5*, it can happen that a jacket is put down in such a way that the measurements fit, although they do not.
That's why it's always good to look twice and ask if in doubt.
 

Observe

One Too Many
Messages
1,015
Well then, that's good ;-)
Depending on who is measuring and taking the pictures at 5*, it can happen that a jacket is put down in such a way that the measurements fit, although they do not.
That's why it's always good to look twice and ask if in doubt.
They've been accommodating of my requests and quick to respond to my messages, good CS experience. Excited to have the jacket in my hands.
 

Rugby

One of the Regulars
Messages
253
I'm having reservations...seal brown cowhide is a $50 "upgrade" and shipping is $60, factor in taxes and I'm nearly at $400. That's too much $ for a 5 Star IMO. Way too much, bailed out.
I made an attempt for a Maxwel type jacket in HH and it came to $520 including the hide overcharge, size overcharge and all the other fees. Yeah...too much
 
Messages
17,146
Location
Chicago
I made an attempt for a Maxwel type jacket in HH and it came to $520 including the hide overcharge, size overcharge and all the other fees. Yeah...too much
I also can't accept an upcharge on the hide between black goat and seal cow....these are far from exotic leathers. Changing between these two hides should not incur an upcharge.
 

Rugby

One of the Regulars
Messages
253
I also can't accept an upcharge on the hide between black goat and seal cow....these are far from exotic leathers. Changing between these two hides should not incur an upcharge.
Yeah, I thought those two hides were the default.
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,885
Location
Europe
I'm having reservations...seal brown cowhide is a $50 "upgrade" and shipping is $60, factor in taxes and I'm nearly at $400. That's too much $ for a 5 Star IMO. Way too much, bailed out.
I agree.
At $300 you could play around a bit. At the current prices, it's no longer worth it, because the risk of getting a less than perfect jacket is relatively high.
For the price, there should be no weaknesses in the pattern or the measurements.

In my case, there is also the fact that I now have to pay customs duty and VAT on parcels from Pakistan. That quickly brings me up to $500 - $550.
 
Messages
17,146
Location
Chicago
I agree.
At $300 you could play around a bit. At the current prices, it's no longer worth it, because the risk of getting a less than perfect jacket is relatively high.
For the price, there should be no weaknesses in the pattern or the measurements.

In my case, there is also the fact that I now have to pay customs duty and VAT on parcels from Pakistan. That quickly brings me up to $500 - $550.
I agree, for essentially stock jackets in house leathers, given my experience with the brand, at most I'd pay $250 and that includes shipping. Once they cross the $300 threshold they begin to compete with used Schott/Vanson and other vintage and that is a losing battle for 5 Star.
 

TartuWolf

Practically Family
Messages
939
Location
Tartu, Estonia
For reference my buttoned half-belt was 350$ including shipping. Was later informed by Shawn that he could do a remake for 50% if I keep the leather and lining the same. He said steerhide is 40$ more than goat, wool lining was 50$ extra over cotton. And "Horsehide jacket starting price is 350$".
 

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