Five Star Leather Jackets

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead, Sep 23, 2020.

  1. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    8,016
    Location:
    SoCal
    @Hh121 your jacket looks great!
    The restriction around the elbow might be from that sleeve seam in the back. It is usually up higher near the tricep area usually 3-3.5in from the armpit seam.
     
    Hh121 likes this.
  2. Hh121

    Hh121 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,446
    not just elbow. elbow is too narrow for sure, but bicep area is restricted as well. I can't even sit down and tie my shoes!!
     
    Jin431 likes this.
  3. El Marro

    El Marro Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,570
    Location:
    California
    I guess that jacket is not made for movement of any kind. It looks pretty good standing still though!
     
  4. MinhNhat

    MinhNhat New in Town

    Messages:
    16
    The thing I worry about when making a 5 * custom jacket is the movement of the body. The custom jacket is very nice to wear. But the movement of the arms, shoulders, and chest area are limited
    I had this problem in my first custom jacket.
    To have a jacket that is both beautiful and moving freely. In addition to providing jacket measurements. Should I give 5 * my body measurements. So I would have the full range of movements when I put the jacket on.
     
  5. Jin431

    Jin431 One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,536
    Location:
    Bay Area CA
    Hh121 likes this.
  6. Seb Lucas

    Seb Lucas I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,575
    Location:
    Australia
    It's one thing to make a cool looking jacket, it's another to make it flow with body movement. Measurements alone won't help - it's in the construction and pattern making techniques.
     
  7. navetsea

    navetsea I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,643
    Location:
    East Java
    If your elbow is hitting against plain leather panel it will easily stretch/ bag out to make comfortable wear after sometime quicker if you wet your sleeve and wear it to dry, if your elbow hit exactly along the sleeve back seam, that won't stretch as much if at all, it will pull the sleeve up from the forearm and somewhat temporarily pooling there creating room from your elbow as you wear your jacket, and more creases on the inside of the elbow in the expense of the sleeve to appear shorter, but not really stretching.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2021
    dlite90, Hh121 and Jin431 like this.
  8. Hh121

    Hh121 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,446
    Horween Latigo natural, not cxl.
     
    Jin431 likes this.
  9. jglf

    jglf One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    170
    Location:
    USA
    Finalized my modified 1930’s half-belt in heavy veg-tanned seal goatskin. Shawn was a pleasure to deal with and I second the advice of sending detailed pictures of exactly what you want. Will post pics when it arrives.

    Here is my final spec sheet:
    *Vegetable tanned seal goatskin (thickest available)
    *Heavy OD green cotton body with heavy poly or satin lining in arms
    *Olive green thread
    *Angled left chest zipper pocket
    *Angled hand warmer slash pockets with triangle stitching on ends
    *Horizontal interior right pocket
    *Interior bottom leather hem 3”
    *action/bi-swing back
    *Side cinch belts with buckle & holes
    *1-button wrist cuff & leather lined
    *2-piece sleeve with 1-piece underarm gusset
    *#10 chrome zipper (or largest zipper up to #10)

    Measurements of jacket
    Chest: 43”
    Waist: 40”
    Hips: 39”
    Sleeves: 25.5”
    Shoulder: 17.5”
    Length: 25.5”
    Biceps: 16”
    Shoulder opening: 22”
     
    Alexlutov, ton312, Hobbes1 and 6 others like this.
  10. air

    air One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    108
    I like how it fits, especially from the front, it looks really sharp. You nailed the placement and type of pockets too.

    The bi-swing back ends very high up (blue circles), for certain movements it may not engage enough and you will be pulling on outermost piece of the back panel instead. There is some extra material in the middle back area , between the end of the bi-swing back and the half belt (red circle), because the leather is still stiff it holds the bi-swing back a little bit too high up (green circle), not letting it engage properly when you move. Maybe when the leather softens it will sit lower and movement will improve.

    F40E2BCE-AE89-48D9-8AD8-E7B5AB5C57A0.png

    D6441647-DE61-4E72-B4A1-78FA6CAF194D.png

    It's hard to tell through the screen, but the right sleeve looks wider in the bicep area in both the front and back pictures. The bi-swing back also looks a little bit asymmetric, but I think that's because of the wrinkles in the middle back.
     
    TREEMAN, Alexlutov, dlite90 and 3 others like this.
  11. navetsea

    navetsea I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,643
    Location:
    East Java
    Jackets and hide look beautiful HH, my jackets all have narrow sleeves, on my last one in veg tan, i barely can bend my elbow not even 45 degree the first few weeks i have it, and since the leather is stiff the creases on the inside of the elbow fold deeply and cutting my blood flow, now i can move relatively freely in it, the elbow doesnt expand but the surrounding area just getting soft and the creases are more naturally formed so it gives way without folding deeply into my arm anymore.
     
    Zoo and Hh121 like this.
  12. Hh121

    Hh121 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,446
    Thanks for your input, guys!
    Here are the pics of the comparison between Aero and 5star, they basically share the same measurement so I really don't know where is the problem.
    aerobackmeasurement.jpg 5starfrontmeasurement.jpg back1.jpg 5starback.jpg
    2BD820DE-5DD5-497C-95CA-B0EC570EE83C.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2021
    JoeNiblick, Alexlutov, jeo and 12 others like this.
  13. abone2010

    abone2010 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    163
    Location:
    Canada
    @Hh121 Measurements the same. The only difference is the new jacket has the arm seam a little lower down the arm, and newer leather.
    Curious, I went and tried my Vanson Oxford Whidbey on which I consider a near perfect fit, albeit snug. It’s heavy cowhide. Can’t layer much, if at all. Lifted my arms straight up and out from my body and sure enough, the jacket lifted from the waist.
    My Vanson is almost a year old now and I don’t consider it close to being broken in yet.
    So unless that arm seam is a problem, and I can’t see why it would be, I’d just wear the hell out of the thing.
     
    Hh121 likes this.
  14. navetsea

    navetsea I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,643
    Location:
    East Java
    sometime the leather is too thick the shoulder gusset has not operating yet, just keep wearing it.

    and creases on the inside of your elbow are still too 2 dimensional, I usually grab the cuff with my 4 fingers, and rotate my forearm to twist the sleeve, and bend my elbow, rotate in then bend, rotate out then bend, it creates different creases pattern around the forearm and elbow and make it softer faster.
    IMG_20210114_123258.jpg
    So the creases are more criss crossing and more ready to accomodate your movements.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2021
    JustinW, handymike, Hh121 and 4 others like this.
  15. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,818
    Location:
    London
    I'm not sure the red circle is extra material.
    To me it just looks like the jacket is 1" too long and resting on his butt rather than stopping above it.
    It's pretty obvious in the side shot.
    The solution IMO would be to make the jacket shorter, and maybe the bottom hem slightly tighter to make up for the fact hat it will end at a narrower point on his body.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2021
    TREEMAN, bn1966, Hh121 and 2 others like this.
  16. Kubatu

    Kubatu One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    185
    I am curious what a jacket like this would look like in leather. Very similar to the trucker @torfjord had created, but going a bit further into the wrangler archives. I've been interested in a casual jacket that I could get a lot of wear out in the summer, so maybe I'll reach out to five star about it.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    jonesy86, torfjord, Cornelius and 6 others like this.
  17. air

    air One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    108
    For light jackets you can just send it to five star to copy and have them send it back with your new jacket. In case you don't own it, look in ebay for the cheapest one, maybe send it straight to 5* to save on the shipping.
    This trucker would be a mean unlined jacket.
     
    Jin431, bn1966 and Kubatu like this.
  18. Kubatu

    Kubatu One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    185
    That would make things a lot easier. Unfortunately, I don't own this jacket, and they don't go cheap. The style is the 24MJZ, which is more uncommon than the later versions which had buttons instead of a zipper. Plus Brad Pitt wore it in a Tarantino film, so that probably drove the price up. Anyway, it basically starts at $300 on ebay now, which is a bummer.
     
    MoFo and Jin431 like this.
  19. bn1966

    bn1966 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,782
    Location:
    UK
    I like that a lot, especially the bi swing back. Just found one on the bay in my size £380......
     
  20. air

    air One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    108
    I've traced the back silhouette of the left side of both jackets, the aero is in red and the 5* is in blue. Top drawing is a side by side comparison as a composite. Botom is an overlay, both images are matched at the center of the back, marked in black. Length came out the same in the tracing so scaling wasn't necessary. Sleeves and collar where not traced.


    back-differences.png


    Among the differences, you can see that the design of the bi-swing back is shaped more like a C in the aero, while it is more straight in the 5*. The shoulder panel is also taller in the aero, while the shoulder is more sloped.
    Width at the shoulder is the same for both jackets, but the aero's back is overall wider, especially in the middle panel of the back.
    Bear in mind that the side panels are wrinkled in the pictures, size in the drawings does not reflect reality.
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.