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RickP

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,810
Couple new ones came in today. This one a cheap ( I mean REALLY cheap) Mallory by Stetson Outland. I know its wool but did I mention it was cheap? Actually I intentionally got it so I could play with a wool hat and see what I could and couldnt do with it. Its a bit dirty and I really dont have much incentive to dirty up my white gas to clean it. Need to do a bit of stretching to get a better fit, but once Im finished playing with it Ive got another yardwork hat. Plans are to do some stiffening and do a brim binding to see if that helps keep the brim shape from getting wonkey. So far I can say thet woll steams and irons fairly well. After ironing, steaming and a Quarter can of Aquanet hairspray later, the brim is smooth, crown looks like a crown and its usable. If the Hairspray doesnt work, Ill gas the hat and do a proper shellac job. All in the guise of learning..lol
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RickP

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,810
Hat number two is a little nicer hat... a decent dark brown 3x Beaver Stetson Gambler looking thing. ( no tag inside so not sure what it was) I dont have much head time in short, flat top hats, but being a decent cheap hat, If It doesnt ring my bell, Ill just reblock it and go another direction. It is a 7-1/4 long oval so its a good fit, and hats in nice condition. Havent done anything to it yet... thinking Ill most likely Iron the brim flat and do a pencil curl on it here in then next few days
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Did go ahead and flatten the brim a bit... already like it better.... stay tuned for the brim curl
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HatsBySam

One of the Regulars
Messages
153
Hat number two is a little nicer hat... a decent dark brown 3x Beaver Stetson Gambler looking thing. ( no tag inside so not sure what it was) I dont have much head time in short, flat top hats, but being a decent cheap hat, If It doesnt ring my bell, Ill just reblock it and go another direction. It is a 7-1/4 long oval so its a good fit, and hats in nice condition. Havent done anything to it yet... thinking Ill most likely Iron the brim flat and do a pencil curl on it here in then next few days
View attachment 739602 View attachment 739601 View attachment 739600 View attachment 739599 View attachment 739598 View attachment 739597

Did go ahead and flatten the brim a bit... already like it better.... stay tuned for the brim curl
View attachment 739606
Love the gambler hats with the curled brim! Need to get you a wool poncho and a 6 shooter to complete the look!
 

RickP

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,810
Love the gambler hats with the curled brim! Need to get you a wool poncho and a 6 shooter to complete the look!
Id like to see one with a taller crown... most are real low and ride on the noggin.... I have one black resistol ive been thinking of trying it on
 

HatsBySam

One of the Regulars
Messages
153
Id like to see one with a taller crown... most are real low and ride on the noggin.... I have one black resistol ive been thinking of trying it on
I try to raise the front a little and give them a front pinch and it feels a little better, on my head anyway.
 
Messages
19,928
Location
Nederland
A recent find that came in a set. The is the first one. They are already on their way to their rightful home.

Léon topper in what feels like a size 56. Bound brim at 5cm and 13cm high. Léon was a retailer in Paris and we've seen hats sold by them before, usually made by other manufacturers. I could not find any other information about them except for these ads.
The materials used and the way it is finished point towards an early date for this one. Alas it is in a bit of a state and it was not the main attraction of the set.

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Messages
19,928
Location
Nederland
The main attraction was this one and it's something I haven't seen before.
A chapeau claque Extra Quality by Harman&Son of New Bond Street, London in brown. Size 56 again with the bound brim at 5cm and the crown at 13cm or thereabouts. Also in poor condition but very interesting from a hat history point of view. We know from publications that toppers were made in various colours, but we very rarely find an older one in any other colour than black. The insides were done in a high quality, so for this one too I'm thinking this is early. Likely late 1800 or early 1900's.

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Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,352
Location
Central Texas
Love the color, Rick. I'm partial to the gambler/telescope crease myself.

Hat number two is a little nicer hat... a decent dark brown 3x Beaver Stetson Gambler looking thing. ( no tag inside so not sure what it was) I dont have much head time in short, flat top hats, but being a decent cheap hat, If It doesnt ring my bell, Ill just reblock it and go another direction. It is a 7-1/4 long oval so its a good fit, and hats in nice condition. Havent done anything to it yet... thinking Ill most likely Iron the brim flat and do a pencil curl on it here in then next few days
View attachment 739602 View attachment 739601 View attachment 739600 View attachment 739599 View attachment 739598 View attachment 739597

Did go ahead and flatten the brim a bit... already like it better.... stay tuned for the brim curl
View attachment 739606

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Messages
13,373
The main attraction was this one and it's something I haven't seen before.
A chapeau claque Extra Quality by Harman&Son of New Bond Street, London in brown. Size 56 again with the bound brim at 5cm and the crown at 13cm or thereabouts. Also in poor condition but very interesting from a hat history point of view. We know from publications that toppers were made in various colours, but we very rarely find an older one in any other colour than black. The insides were done in a high quality, so for this one too I'm thinking this is early. Likely late 1800 or early 1900's.

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What a unique topper. While it doesn’t match exactly what they used in the film… that would make a great Willy Wonka hat!
 

Pellie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,610
Location
Enschede, Netherlands
The main attraction was this one and it's something I haven't seen before.
A chapeau claque Extra Quality by Harman&Son of New Bond Street, London in brown. Size 56 again with the bound brim at 5cm and the crown at 13cm or thereabouts. Also in poor condition but very interesting from a hat history point of view. We know from publications that toppers were made in various colours, but we very rarely find an older one in any other colour than black. The insides were done in a high quality, so for this one too I'm thinking this is early. Likely late 1800 or early 1900's.

View attachment 739636 View attachment 739637 View attachment 739638 View attachment 739639 View attachment 739640 View attachment 739641 View attachment 739642 View attachment 739643 View attachment 739644
Nice! My first thought when i saw it: is that made of wood? Then i looked more carefully........ :)
 

wsmontana

Practically Family
Messages
748
Location
Montana
Here is a Royal Stetson Deluxe Vita-Felt I recently picked up on speculation. The size didn’t work out but it is still a very cool hat worthy of sharing imo. :).

My research found that the Vita-Felt process was likely introduced in 1940 and with the 7801 lot number (and other indicators) I believe this to be an early 1940s hat (perhaps 1941 or 1942).

The felt is outstanding and can easily be dry shaped.

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Rollin Rains

A-List Customer
Messages
303
Location
Cypress Bower
Here is a Royal Stetson Deluxe Vita-Felt I recently picked up on speculation. The size didn’t work out but it is still a very cool hat worthy of sharing imo. :).

My research found that the Vita-Felt process was likely introduced in 1940 and with the 7801 lot number (and other indicators) I believe this to be an early 1940s hat (perhaps 1941 or 1942).

The felt is outstanding and can easily be dry shaped.

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Stunner! What a great find!
 

Juhani

New in Town
Messages
31
Location
Finland
My new Hufvud. Custom order, open crown, beaver 50. The color is Fawn with a "Vintage Beige" ribbon and a binding that sometimes matches, but mostly reflects very cool tones, and this time of the year even light green. I do not own any vintage fedora, but in my imagination, based on what I've seen online, this hat resembles the old time hats.

When I received this, I had some bad luck as, suffering from the flu and being too ignorant, I took the steam from a kettle that was dirty and splashed rust and limescale droplets directly onto the binding. To clean the stain, I used a stain remover designed for textiles, after which I wiped the detergent off with a microfiber cloth that I had moistened with a 50/50 mixture of vodka and distilled water.

The result was perfect, but then I accidentally hit my head on the felt roof of the children’s playhouse, which left a mark on the back of the binding, one I couldn’t remove. In truth, that mark is so subtle that it only serves as a reminder that we all die someday, even if we have a Hufvud on head.

Very, very nice hat, perfect craftsmanship, and the felt color is just awesome.
 

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Messages
18,240
Location
Maryland
P. & C. Habig Wien "Spezial Qualität" with "Auto Cape", size 57cm, 198 grams, 1935 probable production year. I have three examples of "Auto Cape" which is based on Austrian Patent "133275" (1933) by Adolf Sindermann and Hans Frankmann in Wien. The patent claim is to make a stiff felt hat that is resistant to denting and an Insert being a part of the invention. I have three examples of "Auto Cape", this one with a Straw Insert, one with a Felt Insert and one with the Insert removed. All three are dent free. There are more details below regarding Austrian Patent "133275" and "Auto Cape".

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Austrian Patent "133275" by Adolf Sindermann and Hans Frankmann Wien that P. & C. Habig Wien called "Auto Cape". The patent claim is to make a stiff felt hat that is resistant to denting and the Insert being a part of the invention. There are more details below regarding Austrian Patent "133275" and "Auto Cape".

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Austrian Patent Office Patent NO. 133276. Issued on May 10, 1933. Adolf Sindermann and Hans Frankmann In Vienna. (English Translations in the images. Originally in German)

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Austrian Patent 133275 addendum from 1936.

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"Auto Cape" appears to only use a Crown Insert so not as complicated as the Austrian Patent 133276 process. It's possible some of the other processes are incorporated but that would require removing the Inserts.

P. & C. Habig Wien - Berlin "Special Qualität" with "Auto Cape", 208 gram, I found in 2015 has a Felt Insert. I couldn't find a paper label and didn't want to damage the Sweatband. The Felt and Straw Inserts add additional weight. I only have the Austrian Patent 133276 details and no information on "Auto Cape".

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P. & C. Habig Wien "Spezial Qualität" with "Auto Cape", 58 cm, 124 grams. This Stiff Felt is missing the "Auto Cape" Insert so they were removable but don't know how this was accomplished (and not taking the risk of trying). The weight is 84 grams lighter than the Felt Insert "Auto Cape" which is probably size 58 cm.

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"Auto Cape"

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It's possible the glue residue is from the "Auto Cape" Insert.

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One of the inventors, Adolf Sindermann has a good number of hat related patents. His company was a major supplier of felt stumpen and capelines. P. & C. Habig Wien didn't produce Felt so Sindermann & Co. could have been one their Felt sources.

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Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,352
Location
Central Texas
Another beauty.

Here is a Royal Stetson Deluxe Vita-Felt I recently picked up on speculation. The size didn’t work out but it is still a very cool hat worthy of sharing imo. :).

My research found that the Vita-Felt process was likely introduced in 1940 and with the 7801 lot number (and other indicators) I believe this to be an early 1940s hat (perhaps 1941 or 1942).

The felt is outstanding and can easily be dry shaped.

View attachment 740637 View attachment 740638 View attachment 740639 View attachment 740640 View attachment 740641 View attachment 740642 View attachment 740643 View attachment 740644
 

Pellie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,610
Location
Enschede, Netherlands
My new Hufvud. Custom order, open crown, beaver 50. The color is Fawn with a "Vintage Beige" ribbon and a binding that sometimes matches, but mostly reflects very cool tones, and this time of the year even light green. I do not own any vintage fedora, but in my imagination, based on what I've seen online, this hat resembles the old time hats.

When I received this, I had some bad luck as, suffering from the flu and being too ignorant, I took the steam from a kettle that was dirty and splashed rust and limescale droplets directly onto the binding. To clean the stain, I used a stain remover designed for textiles, after which I wiped the detergent off with a microfiber cloth that I had moistened with a 50/50 mixture of vodka and distilled water.

The result was perfect, but then I accidentally hit my head on the felt roof of the children’s playhouse, which left a mark on the back of the binding, one I couldn’t remove. In truth, that mark is so subtle that it only serves as a reminder that we all die someday, even if we have a Hufvud on head.

Very, very nice hat, perfect craftsmanship, and the felt color is just awesome.
Excellent sir!
 

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