Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Matt Jones, Aug 30, 2005.

  1. Peacoat

    Peacoat I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,615
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    Yes. The type of wool used in the shell, as well as everything else, is, and was, decided by the Navy.
     
  2. Doctor Damage

    Doctor Damage My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,133
    Location:
    Ontario
    If the manufacturer didn't follow the specifications their jackets wouldn't pass inspection and they wouldn't get paid.
     
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  3. AbbaDatDeHat

    AbbaDatDeHat I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,845
    F92E6AB5-AC8F-4EBF-BE23-42B4D5DA0A24.jpeg
    Greetings All:
    Here’s a pic of a couple Coast Guards i picked up recently showing the tags and patch. Interesting the one shows the contract number, seems many don’t.
    These are very nice examples.
    Be well. Bowen
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2019
  4. ZenEdge

    ZenEdge New in Town

    Messages:
    31
    Location:
    New York
    I came across a peacoat that was manufactured in 1973 of melton wool. That would suggest that if all contractors were held to the same specifications then all peacoats manufactured in 1973 would have been made with melton wool regardless of whether it was labeled as such.
     
  5. Peacoat

    Peacoat I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,615
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    Not necessarily. The Navy could have changed the contract during the year. But it probably did not. Letting contracts and taking bids is time consuming. And for that contract there was probably only one company awarded the contract. If the Navy needed high volume that couldn't be supplied by one contractor, others might be awarded the work, but I think that would normally be unusual.
     
  6. Peacoat

    Peacoat I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,615
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    You have a nice 1959 coat and the coveted 1949 peacoat that has the very soft and luxurious shell. Of all of my peacoats, the 1949 has the nicest shell. This has been confirmed by others as well.

    Any reason why you picked the Coast Guard coats?
     
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  7. AbbaDatDeHat

    AbbaDatDeHat I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,845
    Hey Peacoat:
    Thank you for dating them.
    Ha ha Yes Peacoat i chose them based on the previous discussions about the lush shell. I just had to see. Now i am glad i did. For that i thank all you guys!!
    I always wanted a peacoat, might as well shoot for the best!!
    Be well. Bowen
     
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  8. ZenEdge

    ZenEdge New in Town

    Messages:
    31
    Location:
    New York
    I currently own a peacoat from the 80s made of melton wool by Sterlingwear in a size 40L. It fits well in the body, but was a bit short in the arms so a tailor let out the sleeve hems and I gained about a inch in length. As I mentioned, I have been on a quest for a kersey wool peacoat in a size 40L or, possibly, a 40XL. I have long arms and I don't know if it would be better to buy a 40L again and have the sleeves lengthened or buy a 40XL, which would be fine in the arms, but too long in the body, and have the bottom hem taken up. The risk with the 40L is that the wear from the previous hem would be visible, especially on a vintage coat. The risk with the 40XL is that raising the bottom hem might throw off the proportions or alter the button stance. Any thoughts?
     
  9. Toto1234

    Toto1234 New in Town

    Messages:
    49
    "a tailor let out the sleeve hems and I gained about a inch in length"
    I have done that with a couple of 1940s and 1950s peacoats, for the same reason. They all look great. Because of the dark color you barely see anything (unless you are 5 inches from the seem)
     
  10. Peacoat

    Peacoat I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,615
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    My thoughts are you had better snap up that coat with the label you posted or you are going to let it get away from you. One reason I say that is because prior to 1980 (the Kersey years), L and XL sizes were either non existent or exceedingly rare. Seems that one of our members reported seeing one, but I may be wrong. I have never seen a tag for L or XL during the Kersey years, and as I said, I have seen thousands of tags.

    Toto1234 is correct about letting the sleeve out. What little line may be there isn't noticeable, and it is worth it to get the extra inch.
     
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  11. ZenEdge

    ZenEdge New in Town

    Messages:
    31
    Location:
    New York
    Roger that. The 40XL (the one with the label I posted) would be too long in the body, though. Can a tailor shorten the coat? Would it look odd?
     
  12. Peacoat

    Peacoat I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,615
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    I think it can be shortened without much problem as long as only a couple of inches were removed. It may start to look a little odd after 3" or so, but I'm not sure.

    You have a double post you can delete by going to the bottom right of your post and clicking on "Delete."
     
  13. ZenEdge

    ZenEdge New in Town

    Messages:
    31
    Location:
    New York
    Thank you. I deleted the extra post.
     
  14. Spoonbelly

    Spoonbelly One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    222
    Location:
    Dutchess Co. New York
    I have 2 Kersey coats from 1969. One is labeled 44L (which is mislabeled and really a 46L). The second coat is labeled 46L. Longs in Kersey coats are rare. We're also not sure when they began to issue them. So far 1969 is the earliest year that I know of. However, there certainly could be older ones out there.
     
  15. ZenEdge

    ZenEdge New in Town

    Messages:
    31
    Location:
    New York
    Several years ago now, Vintage Trends had a Kersey peacoat from 1967 in a size 40XL. I did not buy it because it did not have corduroy pocket linings and they were asking what seemed to me a pretty steep price, $175 plus shipping and no returns. A mistake on my part? Possibly, but then I never saw the coat in person so I can't comment on its condition or how it would it have looked in person. Speaking of Vintage Trends, anyone know what happened to them? Did they go out of business?
     
  16. Peacoat

    Peacoat I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,615
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    A while back I tried to find the site. Found something that was similar, but I think it was a scam site.

    I used to recommend VT to prospective buyers of peacoats but stopped doing so as I was reading complaints about their grading of the coats and the lack of accuracy in measuring the coats. In the opinion of the buyers the listed grades were a step or two higher than the actual condition of the coat. I think that was the beginning of their demise. Sure had a bunch of peacoats, though.

    I'm glad Spoonbelly chimed in as I was beginning to doubt that one of our members actually had seen a Kersey in a long size. Not only has he seen them, he has two of them. Don't depend on finding one though as not only are they rare, they are exceedingly rare. Spoon has spent hundreds, perhaps thousands of hours looking for the large size peacoats. It may be that the large sizes are the only with the long sizes as I wear a 40 or 42 and have never seen a long edition in those sizes.

    Did you see the actual tag of the size 40 coat with XL on the tag, or did VT list it as an XL?
     
  17. EmergencyIan

    EmergencyIan Practically Family

    Messages:
    935
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Zen, are you going to pick that pea coat up? I couldn’t wear it, but if you’re not going to move on it, I’m sure someone else here would like to pick it up to wear or just for its rarity.

    - Ian
     
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  18. Peacoat

    Peacoat I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,615
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    I would like to have it to wear, But it would be too long for me. My size 40 peacoat comes in with a body length of 32.5" and the one pictured has a length of 36".

    Alternatively, I would like it for its rarity, but I have no more room in my closets.
     
  19. ZenEdge

    ZenEdge New in Town

    Messages:
    31
    Location:
    New York
    I am hesitating because it's priced at $200, which seems a bit much, plus I know the coat would be too long on me in the body and it would need to be shortened and I don't know how good
     
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  20. ZenEdge

    ZenEdge New in Town

    Messages:
    31
    Location:
    New York
    Peacoat, that is a fair question. I honestly cannot remember if I saw a picture of the tag though I feel certain I did. I peppered them with questions about the measurements (body length, sleeve length, button stance, etc) and they all matched measurements I have of 40 XL peacoats.
     

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