Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Doctor Damage]

As for dry cleaning, are there any special instructions I should tell to the dry cleaners?

No, there are no special cleaning instructions that I am aware of.

One of the nice things about these old coats is that they're really specialized military clothing and were made (more or less) to the standards of civilian clothing of the time and today. So they can be cleaned and repaired and worn normally.

 

[northshorew]

Thanks for the info, guys.

I purchased a 1966 peacoat, but it hasn't arrived yet and now I'm looking for a 1949ish one, although not in any hurry. Ahh, peacoat addiction.
Until which year(s) was the 2 buttons, not showing, under the lapel removed?

 

[reeks1]

I've had a Schott peacoat for the last 20 years. Still wearing it....

What's the consensus on this jacket? The fit (now that I know MUCH more after going through the Aero process) seems quite trim to me.

Anyway, I'd be interested in getting another one. I just can't devote 3 mos. of my life to doing the research that I just did for the Aero, soooo: what's the sine qua non of pea coats? Just break it down for me, if you don't mind.

Thanks!

 

[Peacoat]

What's the consensus on this jacket? The fit (now that I know MUCH more after going through the Aero process) seems quite trim to me.

Anyway, I'd be interested in getting another one. I just can't devote 3 mos. of my life to doing the research that I just did for the Aero, soooo: what's the sine qua non of pea coats? Just break it down for me, if you don't mind.

Thanks!

Broken Down: Vintage.

Quick read: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?35824-PEACOAT-DATING

The above guide was researched and written by the world's foremost authority on vintage peacoats, and it is available here on the FL.

Welcome to the Lounge.

 

[Doctor Damage]

The above guide was researched and written by the world's foremost authority on vintage peacoats, and it is available here on the FL.

it's actually true, lol

- - - - -

That reefer I picked up is back from the dry cleaners and I was able to try it on over various things, sweatshirt, sweater, etc. Unfortunately one of the shoulders bends down at the outside whereas the other doesn't: in other words, it looks lopsided. No real fix for that. Also, I am reminded of why I never buy or wear black clothing, since the colour does NOT work on me. Not sure what I will do, but probably just take it to the local thrift store and let some lucky teenager buy it (and then re-sell it on e-Bay, most likely). It's time to return to buying only stuff that I can try on first... too many swings and misses lately, which is "the sign" to stop.

 

[northshorew]

I just received my 1966 peacoat and I noticed that two of the buttons (on the side that buttons up the coat) was sewn through the corduroy pockets and onto the satin lining, which I can feel both stitches when I put my hand in the pocket. I assume the buttons came off and a seamstress repaired them. Should I fix it or leave it as is? Also noticed one of the buttons under the collar/lapel is missing. Other than that, it feels great.

 

[Peacoat]

Northshore: I like to have the use of my pockets, so I would re-sew the buttons. It is an easy fix.


Doc Damage: That is something that may well be fixed with water treatments. May just need to retrain the errant shoulder, or perhaps the other one. I have found few defects of that nature that can't be cured.

 

[Spoonbelly]

I just received my 1966 peacoat and I noticed that two of the buttons (on the side that buttons up the coat) was sewn through the corduroy pockets and onto the satin lining, which I can feel both stitches when I put my hand in the pocket. I assume the buttons came off and a seamstress repaired them. Should I fix it or leave it as is? Also noticed one of the buttons under the collar/lapel is missing. Other than that, it feels great.

I bought a few coats on ebay and found the same thing, although not two buttons on the same coat. I'm assuming if a seamstress did the sewing that would not have happened. I cut the thread, removed the button and resewed them back on my coats. The tricky thing is you have to sew through the inside of the pocket taking the needle in and out of the pocket - and sew through the front side of the pocket only so as not sewing the pocket closed at that point. You need to get the needle in the right spot so that it goes up through the front inside of the pocket and comes out the right hole on the button. I think the correct way to sew these buttons on is in a "Z" pattern. Not easy, but I have sewn a few already. The more I do the better and faster I get. The last year for buttoning the coat on both sides was 1965. I'm assuming that 1966 was the first year where there is only one top button since you could only button on that one side and not both sides.

 

[Spoonbelly]

Hi,

I'm thinking about getting a vintage peacoat with 8 buttons (6 showing), so that would be post-WWII. Is a vintage 1949 the recommended one or are there other years that I should be looking out for? According to the guide, the 1949 has a very nice finish, compared to other years.

As for dry cleaning, are there any special instructions I should tell to the dry cleaners?

Just my two cents again:

!949 is a beautiful year. The material seems to be very thick and heavy but is also soft and velvet like. 1958 is also a beautiful year. The material is beautiful and the coat is very heavy built - like a tank as are 1949s. More or less any Kersey year is great. There are probably other years which deserve mention but I don't have experience with all of them. I also have a WWII, 1951, 1953, 1965, and 3 1969s. The material on the 1953 might be a little more "scratchy" then the others and not as velvet like but still very nice and built like a tank. You might have to wait a while if you are looking for a specific year in your size. I'm assuming that all or any Kersey coats are worth it. "Kersey Is King".

 

[Peacoat]

I'm assuming that all or any Kersey coats are worth it. "Kersey Is King".

Yes, Spoon is correct. All the vintage years are worth it. Don't limit your search to one year, or you will miss out on some nice pea coats.

 

[regius]

I recently read a review on the Gentleman's Gazette, on the history of the peacoat. The author is definitely a purist who wouldn't accept anything other than the original Camplin or US issue as "peacoat". My question is, there are high end reproductions, such as RRL and Gloverals, makes a version with flap pocket plus chest height hand warmer slash pocket. There may also be a inside chest pocket in a very convenient location. Are these "peacoats" that appeared in history? Are Schott's peacoat good reproductions? I mean, Schott did contract so their 740 are actual issues, what can be more authentic than an actual issue? Thanks!!

 

[Tadite]

Got a quick question on care. I've a nice mid-40's Kersey wool peacoat. It has some minor vintage issues (couple of holes, bit of wear) but nothing that takes away from the coolness. What I just cannot seem to get under control is the lint. I'm not talking about small minor amounts that are easily solved with a good brush or a roller. I'm talking about insta-dirt. Within the hour, let alone the day, I'm covered in lint. I've tried keeping it in a humidified room and even (heaven forbid) a static spray. I've just never in my whole life had to deal with this level. Frankly, I'm at the point of wondering if it's a degeneration of the fabric and has the nap itself just turned into a sponge.

I do of course realize that a dark DARK blue jacket can get linty and I've noticed lots of people running around with linty peacoats. I have also noticed lots of others without and non of my few wool jackets have ever been at this level.

Any quick pointers would be great.

 

[wquiles]

I notice that on my own peacoat, and also on my Filson Mackinaw Cruiser Wool coat. I don't worry about it, and when it gets too much, I use one of those "roll" type of lint picker-uppers every once in a while.

Something like this one:
http://www.drugstore.com/evercare-lint-roller-60-sheets/qxp75938

 

[Peacoat]

Got a quick question on care. I've a nice mid-40's Kersey wool peacoat. It has some minor vintage issues (couple of holes, bit of wear) but nothing that takes away from the coolness. What I just cannot seem to get under control is the lint. I'm not talking about small minor amounts that are easily solved with a good brush or a roller. I'm talking about insta-dirt. Within the hour, let alone the day, I'm covered in lint. I've tried keeping it in a humidified room and even (heaven forbid) a static spray. I've just never in my whole life had to deal with this level. Frankly, I'm at the point of wondering if it's a degeneration of the fabric and has the nap itself just turned into a sponge.

I do of course realize that a dark DARK blue jacket can get linty and I've noticed lots of people running around with linty peacoats. I have also noticed lots of others without and non of my few wool jackets have ever been at this level.

Any quick pointers would be great.

I have never had the problem with lint that you mention. I use a fabric brush that is one way brushing. Works great. Like this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Magic-L...Pet-Hair-Remover-Cleaner-Swivel-/400623193092

 

[Tadite]

I have never had the problem with lint that you mention. I use a fabric brush that is one way brushing. Works great. Like this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Magic-L...Pet-Hair-Remover-Cleaner-Swivel-/400623193092

I've never had this much of a problem either. I'm wondering if somewhere in the 70 years something, or someone, happened to the fabric. Drycleaning, brushing, nothing helps. Almost makes a man want to go to The Real McCoy's and give up vintage (at least for a while).

 

[wquiles]

Wow, maybe your coat is more "worn out" than the many we have seen. Do you have photos/close-ups you can share?

 

[Tadite]

I think it's going to be something I'm going to have to live with. Nothing wrong with a jacket just used to smoke a pipe, outside, in.

 

[Get A Hat]

I have an additional question for those of you who have more experience and opinions.
I picked up what I thought was a very nice Bridgecoat, when I was looking at it I let me inexperience cloud my inspection.
The top is in almost new condition, there was some very minor moth nibbles on a shoulder though the rest of it seemed to have a very dark rich color, the lining seems to be brand new except for an area around the color which looks like it had snagged a hanger.

Whai I didnt do was look at the bottom of the coat dim lighting and in a hurry, I missed the major moth holes that are on the bottom of the coat.
The material was pressed together and didnt look to bad.

Here is my question, is the label in here the same as would be in a shorter pea coat? I thought it was a very old pre 1947 label.
Would it be wrong to have a tailor hem up the bottom to eliminate the bad area? it would make the coat about 3-4" shorter.
Any thoughts as to what the cost should be for a coat like this? Either with the damage or if it was shortened?

The coat is tight on me so it seems to be a 40 reg? It has no size marked in it. It they are available I might look for a larger size.
I havent seen these before, when looking for my pea coat, I did get a 68 coat and this coat looks so much better except for the damage,

Looking forward to your thoughts

http://http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/CRBULLY/library/Bridge%20Coat?sort=3&page=1

 

[Doctor Damage]

^ We now have a thread on bridge coats which suggest checking out LINK. The tags on bridge coats are different than on pea coats and often have no information at all.

 

[omza]

Below is a link to sewing on a button. It sounds more complicated than it is. It is important to install the shank so the button won't be too tight. Get a thimble that is big enough for your fingers as the material is thick and tough to sew through. Also, get as large a needle as you can find. Someone at a fabric shop will know what size you need. Be careful to not sew through a pocket.

If you have a WWII coat that fits, and has no damage other than what you mentioned, I would be hesitant about sending it back. There is a process called reweaving which can repair damage to wool items of clothing. I think it is relatively expensive. Most large cities will have a tailor or seamstress who can repair damage in this matter. You might get an estimate, contact the seller, complain about the unmentioned damage and let him know how much it is going to cost you to get the coat in the condition as it was advertised. Maybe you can get a partial refund to help with the reweaving costs.

Hard to tell from your pictures the extent of the damage, but it doesn't appear to be that bad. Finding a WWII coat with no damage, and that fits, is a hit or miss proposition. Spoonbelly probably has more recent experience than I in finding WWII peacoats, so I don't think his advice is out of line. I just am reluctant to send a coat back with a minor problem and then take the chance that I might never again find one as nice in my size. But that is up to you, as you are the one who will wear it. Yesterday I wore my favorite peacoat. It was issued to a buddy of mine in 1965. After he got out of the Navy it hung in unprotected closets for years, until he gave it to me 6 or 7 years ago. The coat has several areas of moth damage, but the damage doesn't bother me at all. I got several compliments on the coat, and no one noticed the moth damage.

These coats will last as long as the owner, or owners, take care of them--well over 100 years, maybe even 200 years. So, the damage isn't as a result of the coat being old; something just happened to it on its journey through life during the past 70 years.

BTW, welcome to the Lounge.

http://www.wikihow.com/Sew-a-Button

Thank you so much,

The spot where the wool has come off and you can see stitching is about the size of my thumb. I'm inclined to agree with you that a partial refund would be the best solution. I've contacted the seller, and will see what happens.