Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[tmitchell59]

got these Peacoats today. don't know anything about.

The Second one

label from interior pocket

 

[Peacoat]

The first one is a civilian copy of a WWII peacoat, probably by Fidelity. The second one is a current issue from a 1987 contract.

 

[tmitchell59]

The first one is a civilian copy of a WWII peacoat, probably by Fidelity. The second one is a current issue from a 1987 contract.

Thanks your Sir.

 

[Peacoat]

You are welcome. If you would like to learn something about peacoats, I have linked below to the definitive guide to dating US Navy peacoats. It contains other information as well, and was written by the Guru of Peacoats. If, after reading the guide, you have questions, someone in this thread can probably answer them.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...-dating-the-united-states-navy-peacoat.72058/

 

[responsible D]

Thanks Peacoat for the information about those tags.

If your chest measures about 38" and if the p2p on these coats is about 19.5" to 19.75," Then you should get a fairly trim fit. the long sizes give about 2" extra in the length and about 1" extra in the sleeve.

I'm debating whether the sizing is worth taking a chance on. A 38L from that era fits me reasonably well, but I'd like something more snug, hence my interest in the 36L. But as a long and lean guy I need extra sleeve length, and it appears I would lose 1/2 to 1 inch of sleeve by sizing down. Perhaps there would be enough fabric in the sleeves to let them out a bit...

 

[Saint Johnny]

You can resell it back on ebay. I have resold coats I bought which turned out to not fit me. It's rare but you do come across a coat which has the incorrect size on the label. Your size is fairly common in Kersey coats. You shouldn't have a problem finding more vintage Kersey coats in the smaller sizes, and in excellent condition.

Thanks for the tips, Spoon.
Yes, I see how plentiful vintage Kersey coats in the common sizes of 36, 38, 40 are, if one knows what to look for. To the point that I already have a couple of replacements in those sizes on the way, for not very much money. We'll see about their fit, and condition upon arrival.

 

[Peacoat]

Thanks Peacoat for the information about those tags.
I'm debating whether the sizing is worth taking a chance on. A 38L from that era fits me reasonably well, but I'd like something more snug, hence my interest in the 36L. But as a long and lean guy I need extra sleeve length, and it appears I would lose 1/2 to 1 inch of sleeve by sizing down. Perhaps there would be enough fabric in the sleeves to let them out a bit...

There should be enough fabric for an extra inch to inch and a half in the sleeves. If you are tall, sizing down can be a problem, as you noted.

 

[Worf]

Peacoat ole bean... I've a question. I've two peacoats, one a fashion model from DSP and the second a fakey (found that out from your guide) with bogus label "A" in it. I didn't get fleeced for it so I'm happy (wore it today actually) but being a musician I know that there are fakes and then there are FAKES. There are some '70's Japanese knockoffs that are considered equal or superior to anything Fender or Gibson were putting out for less than half the money. Some of these models area quite prized today. So I'm wondering if there are any good fakes worth seeking or keeping?

Worf

 

[Gamma68]

Hi everyone.

I love vintage U.S. Navy peacoats and have one from 1953.

For those seeking a pre-1967 peacoat in a relatively rare size of approximately 38R, I've posted one in the Classifieds:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...pre-1967-about-38r-excellent-condition.88953/

Thanks for looking.

 

[Peacoat]

Peacoat ole bean... I've a question. I've two peacoats, one a fashion model from DSP and the second a fakey (found that out from your guide) with bogus label "A" in it. I didn't get fleeced for it so I'm happy (wore it today actually) but being a musician I know that there are fakes and then there are FAKES. There are some '70's Japanese knockoffs that are considered equal or superior to anything Fender or Gibson were putting out for less than half the money. Some of these models area quite prized today. So I'm wondering if there are any good fakes worth seeking or keeping?
Worf

Sorry but I can't help you with the civilian market. I know very little about it. I have heard that HPA makes a nice pre WWII peacoat--the Buzz Rickson (linked below). I haven't handled the coat so I don't know what the material is, but I believe it is Melton rather than Kersey. Kersey is the nicer of the two fabrics. If you can find one in your size, vintage is the way to go. I believe you are a size 50? If so, I'm not sure there were more than a few made each year. If you can make it into a size 48, they are scarce, but available. Spoonbelly can give you some advice as to chest circumference and the corresponding p2p measurement. My dating guide, as you may have seen, gives sizing advice toward the end.

Buzz Rickson: https://www.historypreservation.com...nds/buzz-ricksons-pre-wwii-u-s-navy-pea-coat/

 

[Worf]

Sorry but I can't help you with the civilian market. I know very little about it. I have heard that HPA makes a nice pre WWII peacoat--the Buzz Rickson (linked below). I haven't handled the coat so I don't know what the material is, but I believe it is Melton rather than Kersey. Kersey is the nicer of the two fabrics. If you can find one in your size, vintage is the way to go. I believe you are a size 50? If so, I'm not sure there were more than a few made each year. If you can make it into a size 48, they are scarce, but available. Spoonbelly can give you some advice as to chest circumference and the corresponding p2p measurement. My dating guide, as you may have seen, gives sizing advice toward the end.

Buzz Rickson: https://www.historypreservation.com...nds/buzz-ricksons-pre-wwii-u-s-navy-pea-coat/

Thanks for the response and the love man. I THOUGHT I had one already but you set me right on that. I can fit a 48 now... I'll see what I can find. Thanks again....

Worf

 

[Spoonbelly]

Thanks for the response and the love man. I THOUGHT I had one already but you set me right on that. I can fit a 48 now... I'll see what I can find. Thanks again....

Worf

Just thought I would throw in my two cents. Vintage Kersey coats in size 48 are VERY Rare. A couple of years ago I used to scour ebay, craigslist, etc. for size 46 peacoats (my size). I did this for 2-3 years. I remember coming up with only 2 or 3 coats in size 48, and only 1 or 2 were in excellent shape. You can find size 48 in the modern day black Melton coats ,but even they are fairly scarce.

 

[Peacoat]

Thanks for chiming in, Spoon. I thought that is what you would say. Worf may get lucky and find a 48 on eBay in the next few days, or, like you, he may search for years for a good one.

A word about the current issue peacoat. As Spoon says it is of the Melton material and looks black in color even outside where there is good light. Sterlingwear, a quality manufacturer, swears the material has blue in it, but I don't see it. These coats are warm, even though the shell is melton because the contract calls for a liner under the melton shell.

Sterlingwear will sell one of their current issues peacoats to the civilian market. It isn't on the website and is available only by calling the company and placing an order. I'm pretty sure Worf could get a size 48 with no problem. The cost used to be around $350 to $400. Not sure what it is now.

Good luck in the hunt.

 

[Saint Johnny]

Good luck in the hunt.

Well, I picked up 2 more "new" for me, vintage coats this week! One WWII vintage 8 button, size 36 and an early 1950s size 38.

I can now see how the hunt for the perfect coat can become a problem,...for some. (guiltily, looks around room. LOL)
I will report back my impressions, soon.

 

[mihai]

Well, I picked up 2 more "new" for me, vintage coats this week! One WWII vintage 8 button, size 36 and an early 1950s size 38.

I can now see how the hunt for the perfect coat can become a problem,...for some. (guiltily, looks around room. LOL)
I will report back my impressions, soon.

Congratulations!
Fortunately for you there are plenty of USN vintage pea coats in sizes 36-38.

 

[Trenchfriend]

How windproof are your peacoats?

 

[Grayland]

How windproof are your peacoats?

Very much so. The Kersey wool on the vintage peacoats is very dense - after all, it was made for work on windy coasts.

 

[Peacoat]

I agree with Grayland as to the Kersey shell. The denseness of the wool does a good job of stopping the wind, and it will be water resistant for relatively short periods of time. I wouldn't want to spend an hour or so in the rain, however. The Melton shell is a less dense wool and the Navy specified a liner to make the coat as warm as the Kersey. The liner does a good job of keeping the body warm, but the wind resistance of the Melton isn't as good as the Kersey. I would also think the less dense weave of the Melton would not be as water resistant as the Kersey.

 

[Trenchfriend]

My actual nine old peacoat is one of these priceworth massmarket storebrand-modells, with a shell made of seemingly wool-felt (60% cotton/40% polyester) and the quilted winter-padding under it. I guess, the wool-felt, instead of woven wool, makes the difference.

 

[EmergencyIan]

I have an unissued WWII size 38 Peacoat that's in virtually mint condition. It's quite warm in moderately cold weather. Such a classic, handsome design, as well. In saying that, one thing that I wish were part of Peacoat design, and would make it considerably warmer, are knit storm cuffs.

- Ian