Sam's Tailor Linen Suit

[Mr. Rover]

The peak lapels with three roll two closure is a rather odd choice, but it works since the rest of the suit looks busy. Hard to explain.

Really? I find the front is rather simple, which contrasts with the busier back. The reason why I went with the three button was because I like Grant's 3-button peak lapel in Philadelphia Story but like the longer lapel roll....so I get both with this.

 

[Jovan]

I meant with the peak lapels, patch pockets, and pleated half-belt back, it looks a bit busy. But it works.

If I may inquire, how much did this set you back? Did he charge extra for the special back?

 

[Mr. Rover]

I'm sorry this might be a crazy question but Sam the tailor... where oh where can I find such a master tailor?! You suit looks GREAT and I'd love something similiar for sure!! thanks for the inspiration!

Sam's is located on Nathan Road in Hong Kong. A quick search on google will find his web-site. You just have to be very insistent on the details...
I made a checklist of features that I wanted and brought a half dozen pictures from 30s catalogues found here. It's easier if you bring a suit for them to copy, too. I wore my favorite 3-piece suit to the shop when I made the order and they took a few measurements, like the width of the pant bottoms.
Actually, the tailor sewed the back pleats down into darts like Matt Deckard's Joe Hameraji (sp?) suit and I said "No, that's wrong" and he simply cut them open with an exactoknife right in front of me in the shop. I had to pressure him to make the armholes high enough, too- still not quite high enough but much higher than their standard.

Jovan, the suit in total came out to exactly $500...it would've been $400 something for a plain suit but he did charge a little more for the special back. The prices are similar to Magnoli's, but if it were up to me, I'd rather go for a fitting in person.
I had patch pockets in mind for this jacket, because to me, they are a sort of standard with this kind of suit. I also originally requested a yoked back with an inverted box pleat between the yoke and belt, but the tailor said that it would gape too much with the linen and I settled for the simpler back. I think it's more elegant this way now that I have it.
If you brought your own fabric and a suit to copy exactly, they could probably do this kind of work in Shanghai for under $100...but that's risky. I got 2 suits made in Shanghai for $75-$80 and they came out so-so. You get what you pay for, really. I'll post pictures when they're back from the cleaners. The button placement and lapel shapes are juuuuust slightly off.
Honestly, the Shanghainese tailors have no sense of style...they just copy everyone else's style, so if you are trying to describe something to them in words without pictures (as was my case because I had left my pictures in Hong Kong), something may get lost. For example, I asked for suspender buttons and the tailor nodded, "I know, I know!" I got the suit back and there were only 4 buttons in the pants. It was my last day and I was in a rush so I didn't have time for him to add the other two so I guess I'll just have to do it myself.

 

[Jovan]

Yeah, 'tis better to get fitted in person. I don't think Magnoli is planning a trip to Florida anytime soon though.

 

[manton]

EDIT: Okay, nevermind. He said "sham" buttonholes in the article. I don't know how that works for later on, removing the stitching must be a witch with a "B."

It's easy. Sometimes the underlying cloth can be damaged and has to be rewoven, if the person removing the stitches is particularly sloppy.

But there is no actual hole cut. Thus coats with sham buttonholes like that can have the sleeves lengthened (but not, alas, shortened).

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Ray,

I must say that I am constantly amazed at your sense of style and your courage at taking on these various projects. I am also amazed at the access you have for great, and as you described, not-so-great, tailors in your area.

At the end of the day, few can rival your sense of style and attention to detail.

Well done, young sir.

 

[Jovan]

It's easy. Sometimes the underlying cloth can be damaged and has to be rewoven, if the person removing the stitches is particularly sloppy.

But there is no actual hole cut. Thus coats with sham buttonholes like that can have the sleeves lengthened (but not, alas, shortened).

Oh, I know it's possible, just thought it would leave a really telltale sign of stitching being there. Guess not. I'm going to have this done on the next suit I order in any case.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Ray,

I must say that I am constantly amazed at your sense of style and your courage at taking on these various projects. I am also amazed at the access you have for great, and as you described, not-so-great, tailors in your area.

At the end of the day, few can rival your sense of style and attention to detail.

Well done, young sir.

Always full of wonderfully eloquent compliments, Hemingway. Thank you so very much! We really must get together sometime over the summer!

 

[scotrace]

I've a good friend in Hong Kong with whom I have shared your pictures, Ray. He was impressed enough to plan a trip to that tailor soon.

What's not to like? It's a great-looking suit and you wear it very well.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Always full of wonderfully eloquent compliments, Hemingway. Thank you so very much! We really must get together sometime over the summer!

Absolutely, My Friend. I am sure we will be down to New York City sometime soon. I imagine you will be there in August? It will be good linen suit weather.

 

[Jovan]

Ahhh. I seriously need to organize a FL... FL meet! That would rock.

I agree with Hemingway, even though we don't see eye-to-eye on some other topics. Before when I was lurking, I saw a lot of your outfits and was pretty impressed someone your age has so much style and knowledge of a classic way of dressing.

 

[Mr. 'H']

I love it Ray, well done.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Oh, I know it's possible, just thought it would leave a really telltale sign of stitching being there. Guess not. I'm going to have this done on the next suit I order in any case.

When I had the sleeves altered on my heavy cotton RRL beltback, the tailor had to pull out the "sham" buttonholes and resewed the buttons in the right position...absolutely no sign of stitching left. I'm not sure if this would be the case with worsted wool or linen, though.

 

[Fletch]

Ray,

I must say that I am constantly amazed at your sense of style and your courage at taking on these various projects. I am also amazed at the access you have for great, and as you described, not-so-great, tailors in your area.

Yes. There may be great tailors in NYC, but accessible great tailors - forget it. You'll pay thru the nose and the customer is NOT always right.

 

[Mr. Rover]

The one thing I've picked up about Sam's Tailor is that they like to correct my sloped shoulders with padding...maybe this wouldn't be the case with Anderson & Sheppard or someone who makes a drapier suit, but I've noticed that with my 30s and 40s suits, the shoulder tends to follow the slope of my shoulders and end with a little wadding to make a cleaner natural shoulder or to pad the roped shoulder. It really changes the silhouette.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Absolutely, My Friend. I am sure we will be down to New York City sometime soon. I imagine you will be there in August? It will be good linen suit weather.

Of course! I move into my dorm on Aug. 26, but I'll be in NY for almost the whole summer. I wonder if they'll be playing classic films in Central Park, again. I missed Casablanca by a week because I had to come back to Taiwan :eusa_doh:

 

[Mr. Rover]

Yes. There may be great tailors in NYC, but accessible great tailors - forget it. You'll pay thru the nose and the customer is NOT always right.

I'm still curious about this tailor's work. His front page features pictures from an old AA or Esky illustration or something.
Cheo Bespoke

EDIT: I just did a quick google...looks like he charges Saville Row prices ($3,500+).....yeesh.

 

[Jovan]

Believe me, I'd be using Savile Row had I the monetary option.

 

[Feraud]

Of course! I move into my dorm on Aug. 26, but I'll be in NY for almost the whole summer. I wonder if they'll be playing classic films in Central Park, again. I missed Casablanca by a week because I had to come back to Taiwan :eusa_doh:

Bryant Park will do the usual.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Bryant Park will do the usual.

fftopic:
Looks like I've got my weekends booked! I'll be there for To Have and Have Not! Yay for Bogie and Baccall! Maybe we can get something together for Machurian Candidate or Charade (double yay for Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn)? Rocky isn't really related to Golden Era, but that's be cool to see on a big screen, too :eusa_clap