Shoulders Preferences for a Leather Jacket

[Philalethes]

How do Loungers find their preferred shoulder fit for a leather jacket?

My shoulders measure ~18" at the top. Would a jacket that has 18" shoulders be restrictive or just right?

The smallest shoulder measurements I have on a jacket are 19", which is comfortable, if a little over my natural shoulders. But in order to get 19" shoulders on my coveted Aero, I would have to order a jacket that is one or two sizes above what I am considering - I think it would be too big everywhere else.

 

[jimmer_5]

I have noticed one thing in particular about shoulder width in jackets - it has a significant effect on sleeve length. The shoulders on my size 44 Aero measure 20" across, and the sleeve length measures 26 1/8". as you can see in the picture, they come down to the first knuckle of my thumb.

Then, I have my Vanson Enfield - the shoulders measure 18.5" across and the sleeve measures 26 1/2" to 26 3/4" long, but they end further up on my wrist. It's worth keeping this in mind when you consider shoulder width.

In the end, I find the wider shoulders of my Aero to be more comfortable and attractive, but this is a highly subjective matter. I have broad shoulders, and the Aero is not drooping or oversized at all in the shoulders. The Vanson is a closer, more vintage style fit in my opinion, and for what it's worth, it is a better fit in the body if not the shoulders.

 

[Seb Lucas]

This is highly subjective as jimmer says. It also depends on your weight and build. For instance - people who are overweight tend to need a broader cut around the shoulders to help the jacekt look more in proportion.

 

[Forrest]

If you are skinny and lean though, shouldn't you get a jacket that is as fitted as possible? Areas such as chest, shoulders and armholes are almost always too generous on nearly every single article of clothing I own. Will Aero customize a fit so that the arm holes, shoulders and chest are cut to your desired amount, but keep the sleeves as long as you need? Or are their patterns pretty much set?

 

[jimmer_5]

Aero will cut to your measurements, but that does not necessarily mean that the cut will be form fitting. My size 44 Aero ACE Half Belt is 25" across the chest (50" around), white the Vanson 44 Enfield is 24" across the chest (48" around). Two inches may not seem like much, but it is a significant difference.

Aero will do what they call a "slim fit" - it's a standard model for the half belt, but I believe you can request it for other models. I have never tried it, but a lot of other members here have, and they can give better opinions.

I have an Aero Cafe Racer on order, and from what I have been told, this jacket is also much slimmer in cut than a Highwayman or Half belt of the same size, built for the same person.

 

[apba1166]

There are two thoughts to this....one is that the jacket "corners" the shoulder. That is, the seam is atop the shoulder. That way, the end of the shoulder, which extends, in muscle mass etc., beyond that becomes part of the sleeve, therefore raising it a bit. The other is that the seam goes to the far side of the shoulder (many american fit jackets) therefore covering all the muscle etc. It is subjective, even within one person: I used to prefer the larger way, now I prefer the tighter fit so that the seam is square with the top of the shoulder not the end.

 

[Yeps]

Aero will cut to your measurements, but that does not necessarily mean that the cut will be form fitting. My size 44 Aero ACE Half Belt is 25" across the chest (50" around), white the Vanson 44 Enfield is 24" across the chest (48" around). Two inches may not seem like much, but it is a significant difference.

This is interesting to me that two jackets that profess to be the same size, and a size that is theoretically the number of a measurement (a 44inch chest in this case) would be significantly different from that measurement by more than a couple inches. It makes me trust sizes much less.

 

[aball]

This is interesting to me that two jackets that profess to be the same size, and a size that is theoretically the number of a measurement (a 44inch chest in this case) would be significantly different from that measurement by more than a couple inches. It makes me trust sizes much less.

The number size of a jacket generally corresponds to the size chest it is designed for. However there are different fits for different models. A motorcycle jacket will be designed to fit tightly, be short at the waist and have longer arms than a casual evening jacket would be - even if the number size is the same. And this is really how one should expect it to be since they aren't worn for the same reason or occasion.

And then different brands also have different approaches. Vanson has a bit more motorcycle DNA in their sizing compared to say, Aero. Aero jackets in my experience are designed with cool damp Scottish winters in mind and so they fit better over a sweater than a Vanson does of the same number size. This is well demonstrated in the pics above. All these practical aspects contribute to how a jacket will be sized for a given person.

 

[Yeps]

The number size of a jacket generally corresponds to the size chest it is designed for. However there are different fits for different models. A motorcycle jacket will be designed to fit tightly, be short at the waist and have longer arms than a casual evening jacket would be - even if the number size is the same. And this is really how one should expect it to be since they aren't worn for the same reason or occasion.

And then different brands also have different approaches. Vanson has a bit more motorcycle DNA in their sizing compared to say, Aero. Aero jackets in my experience are designed with cool damp Scottish winters in mind and so they fit better over a sweater than a Vanson does of the same number size. This is well demonstrated in the pics above.

Thank you for clearing that up for me.

 

[Seb Lucas]

If you are skinny and lean though, shouldn't you get a jacket that is as fitted as possible? Areas such as chest, shoulders and armholes are almost always too generous on nearly every single article of clothing I own. Will Aero customize a fit so that the arm holes, shoulders and chest are cut to your desired amount, but keep the sleeves as long as you need? Or are their patterns pretty much set?

Exactly. Different sized people will want a diffferent style of fit. Nothing worse than a big guy in a small guy's jacket or visa versa.

 

[ron521]

I once owned a G&B "Expedition" size 42 in which the shoulders had a little bit of "droop" over my natural shoulders, although the cuffs were at the right place.
I kind of didn't like the fit, as the jacket moved around on my a bit. However, many over at Club Obi-Wan prefer this "relaxed" fit as being more screen accurate.
I ended up selling it, and keeping another jacket in which the shoulders ended at my natural shoulders.
For me, this is more comfortable, as the jacket "stays put". A size 40 with shoulders between 18 and 19 inches seems to work very well for me.