The Flat Head for Posterity

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by NYDRH, Dec 4, 2021.

  1. NYDRH

    NYDRH Familiar Face

    Messages:
    97
    I wanted to start a thread dedicated to The Flat Head now that they've been resurrected. I've seen some posts on one particular jacket, people looking for sizing advice or info so I thought it might be nice to put as much of it in one place as possible so that it might help others in the future.

    I have found myself running through jackets in search of my personal nirvana and The Flat Head often catches my eye for their interpretations of classic designs, attention to detail and what i think is some of the nicest leather I've seen a manufacturer use. I also find the proportions to be perfect for me relative to many other brands, wide shoulders slim tapered through the waist with smaller sleeve lengths. I don't like having to take sleeves to get shortened for a number of reasons and i really dislike sleeves that hit that first knuckle on my thumb. Makes me feel like a little kid wearing my dad's jacket. So finding an OTR jacket that hits those proportions kind of hooks me for like as a customer. I will say, as many know, there is a lot to be said for the pattern and the dimensions alone will not tell the whole story as I have other jackets that in comparison would make you think they would no fit but they do.

    To get it started here are my thoughts on two classics.
    PXL_20211204_180729198.jpg

    These are two of TFH's classic asymmetrical motorcycle jackets. The WRJ-53A(the new version is the FN-LJ-HW001) in a 40 & The Selfedge Del raiser 42.

    Leather

    The leather is veg-tanned HH, and Flat Head does an added to finish to it which claims to add fats and oils which i think gives it a very nice texture and overall feel that you don't see on many of the repro brands. The WRJ-53A has an aniline finished 1.3 mm Shinki HH It is quite robust, yet pliable the color is that blackened brown effect on certain light it almost has a purple hue. The Del raiser leather is stiffer and has a darker finish both have a tea core effect. Selfedge describes the leather as "Semi-Aniline Finish (The semi-aniline process is designed to keep the natural characteristics and quality of the Leather and to make it durable by combining dye and pigments. The term 'semi-aniline' comes from the mix of an aniline and pigment finish)"
    PXL_20211204_181005856.jpg
    Cut
    The cut on these jackets is perfect for me as I mentioned above. I find the proportions in the shoulders to give a nice V shape and it's ideal fit those of us with large shoulders, chest room is ample for me in both and i find the 40 is snug in the right way and is really a better size for me even though i originally thought i was a 42. The waist is trim.

    Design and differences:

    The selfedge model has brushed cotton lining using their buffalo check. Mixed hardware brass zips and nickel Flat Head branded snaps(nice touch) stripped of a belt, epaulettes and belt loops. While the Flathead model has the epaulettes and a rayon sateen lining. The back design differ slightly in that the delraiser has the back zips with the action back and the flat head model has buckle fasteners which they refer to as uchi nuki(hit n go). Personally I prefer the delraiser design just a bit more. I used to dislike the epaulettes but they have grown on me and I'm happy with them. The cuff zippers have slightly different placement as well. Obviously they are both riffs off the same design.

    Zippers are flathead branded some are Bitez and the WRJ-53A has the grommet style which i really like, which i know is not for everyone. Flathead also uses universal zippers which i will share on my next post.
    PXL_20211204_180842840.jpg


    Stitching:
    The stitching is well executed and they use contrast top stitching. I'm no expert and quite frankly unless there are obvious cosmetic errors i don't pay a great deal of attention to it. I've included some pics of the shoulders and i think the construction is as good as I've seen on many high end makers(i have not had anything from freewheelers) There's quite a bit of French seams in use which I think looks great aesthetically. I think Flat Head often takes a lot of criticism because of the price and therefore the expectation of them is to be perfect. I get that but there really is nothing that is perfect and fit in the end is more important than anything else in my opinion. I am looking to wear them and as long as they hold up to my expectations of looks and fit im willing to let an errant stitch live.
    PXL_20211204_180814682.jpg

    For anyone curious about measurements and for posterity of those hunting for the ideal fit in a midnight internet search.

    The 40 WRJ-53A
    Shoulders:18.5in
    Chest:40.5in
    Length: 24in
    Sleeves:24in
    Hem:19in

    The 42 Del Raiser
    Shoulders: 19in
    Chest: 43in
    Length:24.5in
    Sleeves:24.5in
    Hem:20in
    PXL_20211204_180818719.jpg

    PXL_20211204_180926653.jpg
    Please share yours if you are so inclined
     
    Sabir Asaria, Mrfrown, Bfd70 and 13 others like this.
  2. dwilson

    dwilson One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    234
    Location:
    LA
    [​IMG]

    Here is my TFH cafe racer in the light brown colorway -- which seems fairly rare to find. They've used this leather before on a halfbelt that Self Edge carried as well but I haven't seen it used much elsewhere. Really a beautiful jacket. Far and away the one I get the most random compliments on when I wear it out. What is also a tad unusual is the lining of this jacket is a very thick flannel. I believe the exact same selvage flannel they use in their winter wear work/westerns.

    You can see my thread with full details about the jacket. I don't have much more to add about the fit/leather/hardware/company that the OP hasn't already hit on https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-flat-head-srj-06-cafe-racer-in-brown.103567/
     
  3. Cheech

    Cheech One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    147
    Location:
    NC, US
    The Flat Head cafe racer I had had the nicest Shinki (perhaps the nicest leather?) I’ve seen. The couple of RMCs and Himel I’ve had did not really compare. The relatively short sleeves and lack of shoulder gussets or action back made it a dealbreaker for me, although I second-guess myself whenever I recall that hide.
     
    Jin431 and NYDRH like this.
  4. NYDRH

    NYDRH Familiar Face

    Messages:
    97
    Flat Head Deerskin Cafe Racer
    PXL_20211209_192045599.jpg
    1.3mm thick deerskin, substantial yet lightweight incredibly comfortable to wear.

    This is copy I find from Corlection who carried this jacket:

    " PXL_20211209_192147171.jpg These jackets are constructed by some of the best Japanese craftsman in the world. There are only 4-5 craftsman inside FH's Stockburg factory who are able to create these masterpieces. It can take up to two days for the craftsman to finish one jacket. The deerskin used on these jackets is originally from America and tanned for three months in Japan. To begin the process the deerskin is tanned for two months, then tanned for another month. Initially the jacket will have a matte finish but after wear the surface will become shiny and develop a richer colour.The 1.3mm deerskin that FH uses is much thicker, stronger and even softer than other companies. We think that this deerskin is even more comfortable than sheepskin!"


    The Flat Head Cafe racer uses 4 pocket design and although i prefer the cleaner look without the hand warmer pockets they execute it well enough that is very subtle.
    PXL_20211209_192117474.jpg
    The back design here is not like the newer one piece back with Western yoke on their more recent horse hide Racer.
    PXL_20211209_192056172.jpg
    I highly recommend deerskin of anyone is considering it instead of Horsehide.
    PXL_20211209_192123518.jpg
     
  5. Merv

    Merv Practically Family

    Messages:
    511
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Wow! That Deer Skin jacket is amazing! If you ever let that go let me know!
     
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  6. Merv

    Merv Practically Family

    Messages:
    511
    Location:
    San Francisco
    My TFH Delraiser jacket. I waited for them to re-release this, one of my favs for sure! (sorry for the redundancy)
    TriumphBonnie.jpeg
     
  7. NYDRH

    NYDRH Familiar Face

    Messages:
    97
    Fits you perfectly, like it was made for you.
     
  8. Merv

    Merv Practically Family

    Messages:
    511
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Here's my Flat Head comp leather that I bought from a Lounge member a few years back. It's different than the one I tried on at Self Edge. Different liner etc. Perhaps it was originally from Rivet & Hide. I don't know. Someone once mentioned they were made in New Zealand once upon a time. Maybe someone has insight where this jacket was originally sold? TFH-COMP.jpg
    TFH-close.jpg
     
    Sabir Asaria, Mrfrown, Tom71 and 7 others like this.
  9. Merv

    Merv Practically Family

    Messages:
    511
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Thanks! I first tried it on in Self Edge SF, I was hesitant about buying it but lusted about it for a few days, by the time I got back to the store they had sold my size. I had to wait another 3 years before they released it again. I'll let them bury me in this jacket ;-)
     
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  10. barnabus

    barnabus Practically Family

    Messages:
    855
    Location:
    london
    Lovely bike! What year?



    Oh yeah, jacket looks pretty fantastic too.
     
  11. Will Zach

    Will Zach Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,086
    Location:
    Northeast USA
    TFH got that one right, for sure. Not a too aggressive taper, slim fit. Just perfect.
     
  12. Smallrod

    Smallrod New in Town

    Messages:
    34
    Location:
    Bahamas
    i have this jacket as well. bought mine from Self Edge, it has this lining and is made in Japan.
     
    Jin431 likes this.
  13. Merv

    Merv Practically Family

    Messages:
    511
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Thanks! It’s a 1967 Bonneville
     
    barnabus, Jin431, ES335 and 1 other person like this.
  14. Merv

    Merv Practically Family

    Messages:
    511
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Oh thanks, that’s good to know. They must’ve changed the liner in the subsequent versions.
     
    Jin431 likes this.
  15. ES335

    ES335 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    129
    Location:
    Baltimore. Actually, I love it.
    Forget the jacket- gimme that Triumph!
     
  16. Merv

    Merv Practically Family

    Messages:
    511
    Location:
    San Francisco
    LOL! Where do you live? I have a 1968 TR6 that I'm restoring right now, if you're interested. It's the Steve McQueen bike.
    Unlike my '67 Bonnie, the TR6 has the single carb. I know this is supposed to be about jackets, sorry for digressing...

    This exact same model:
    s-l400.jpg
     

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