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Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by dudewuttheheck, Dec 3, 2020.
Brilliant fit, Jake. Congrats!
Exemplary as always Dude.
Would expect nothing less.
Will be awesomer still with your fedoras!
Damn that's a good looking jacket and a better fit..
*And I'd wear the black boots with it..
I would prefer to have a regular Shinki leather, but as you said, this does have potential to age in an interesting way. I have had plenty of normal shinki and a lot of jackets in general, so getting something like this is kind of fun even though it's not what I would prefer. I will be wearing this a lot and posting updates.
Yes! I love the shoulder gusset pleats too. Very cool detail that I had not experienced previously. As I have noted, the print is not my preference. In person, I actually don't mind it. based on the cuffs, I think it may "disappear" or at least lesson over time in high wear areas and could look interesting. Still, the real reason I bought this was the fit and the design/pattern and so far I believe it is worth it.
Yeah for now I have to just trust RMC that this is a period detail. They said that Californian leather jackets had it more often in the 1930s, but it is not something that I can prove. I'm not sure why they did it either because the leather seems really nice otherwise. It does not seem like a cheap leather that they are using to save money. It feels like a high end leather that they decided to put a print on.
Thank you! Yeah it is a dark brown, but in some lighting it does have a taupe or grey tinge to it. The print is not my preference and it is partly why I did not buy the jacket initially. However, now that I have it I think it could age in an interesting way. We'll see what happens I suppose! It does have a slightly goatskin look to it, but it absolutely does not feel like goatskin.
It is not as stiff as most Shinki that I am used to. However, it's not super soft either. It does not feel as stiff as actual goatskin that I have had (which felt super stiff.) It feels a little thinner than the standard Freewheelers Shinki and it has a slightly oily feel to it. It also does not really have the classic Shinki shine that I am used to and not as shiny as the goatskin I have had. Sort of a medium-stiff temper. Overall pretty easy for me to wear. It is stiff to the touch, but it isn't difficult to bend. It feels stiffer to the touch than regular Shinki, but is easier to bend. Still, it is also still stiffer than some of the other horsehides I have tried. It's not as flexible feeling as the Badalassi that I have had either, but similar stiffness.
Thanks! I agree. Fits my height and body type so well.
The leather does feel very high quality from what I can tell. It certainly does not feel like cheap leather that they embossed.
The other thing I want to point out is that in person, the embossing looks pretty good. what I mean by that is that it looks almost like actual goatskin combined with Russian calf. The grain is smaller than the goatskin I have experienced. It looks better than most grained shoe leathers at least.
Yes I agree. I will be wearing it with my fedoras too and I have a new one on the way that should look great with this.
I don't believe this happened frequently. I have seen vintage jackets with a similar effect, but quite rare. Pigskin was used back in the day and it is fairly rare to find. I assume this ladies jacket is pigskin, but it is not labeled as such. I do have a Glover catalog that list pigskin jackets in the late 30s, but they were not in California.
This is definitely not printed. This looks like peccary leather from wild pigs. Still used today to make gloves, because the leather is very supple.
Yeah, triangle shaped follicles are a dead giveaway it's pigskin. Gotta say, not a particularly attractive hide...
@dudewuttheheck although you've had plenty of jackets that fit really well, (and some that you could have said were perfect) this one is in fact absolutely perfect in every way. Looks perfect open. Looks perfect zipped. No leather bunching up in the shoulders or in the back...well done man! As long as you can move around in it and layer at the very least a thin sweater, I would say it can't get better than this.
And the printed leather is very interesting. As long as you like it, doesn't matter what everyone else thinks. Most people won't notice it anyway. I also wonder how it will develop and how it will react to moisture..?
Very nice jacket with interesting details.The jacket fits you perfectly in this style. I personally like the printed leather, it's something different and stands out from the crowd. The color is also interesting and unique. Enjoy wearing this beauty
FWIW - these must indeed be popular as all sizes are sold out at Standard & Strange...
congrats Dude, its your best fitting jacket.
leather looks like micro quilt pattern, might look interesting when some fading happened, you might see dots of lighter brown here and there on wear areas, instead of just a spot of brown.
Yeah I think this is my best fitting leather jacket yet. I don't love the leather, but I don't dislike it in person as much as I was expecting. I am at least interested to see how it develops over time.
Yeah I'm interested to see how it ages. Could end up looking great, but we'll have to see. I am indeed thrilled with how it fits.
Yeah and I had to special order this one. The crazy thing is that people on Instagram seem to love the grain. I don't even love it haha.
OP, that's a sweet jacket, and spot on fit too! The leather goods to me, but I guess people like more lack of uniformity that a finished texture has. How long do you think you keep this one before moving on? lol.
For that fit and pattern, I too could live with that leather. My monitor shows the different colour effect of changes in the lighting. You never disappoint, Dude. Congrats!
It is a beautiful jacket. I've owned several of their jackets and lusted for others. I am intrigued by the patterning of the leather as seen on West Coast jackets. Maybe it is difficult to see/recognize when 80 + years old. Jackets from the bay area certainly had a look.
This jacket is from the late 30s San Francisco.
Is this the "patterning" ?
Thanks. I agree that it fits best. Yeah I think it could end up aging quite nicely. Maybe it won't, but we'll see how it goes.
Tnaks! Haha hopefully I never have to move it on. Everything I've sold in the past few years has been sold due to fit.
Haha yeah that's exactly my thought. I can put up with the leather for this design and fit.
It was all written
Best fit. thumbs up
Looks to me like they’re replicating “Russian reindeer” leather, perhaps the most expensive leather in the world. It was leather tanned in 1786 or thereabouts, and then sunken on a merchant vessel. The leather was covered over with silt and remarkably preserved when divers unearthed in from the shipwreck in the 80s. It’s used only extremely pricey shoes, wallets, watch straps and other small leather goods because of its price, as it’s severely limited. It has a very distinct crosshatch grain, from whatever tanning process they used in Russia in the 1700s, long since lost to history.
It’s often replicated, but usually the cross hatch grain pattern is a bit too pronounced. Still I think it’s pretty cool.
Just echoeing the obvious: Great jacket and perfect fit!
You clearly have an extravagant collection going, Jake. I believe the printed leather is a worthy addition. It will be an eye-opener to see it age.
As a "postscript" to the advertized color: When Belstaff was still british owned, they would sell their flagship jackets ("Panther" and "Gangster") in what they called "Vintage Black" and "Blackbrown". The former being a dark brown, the later a mid-brown. Only lately they included a color that I would call "black". Needless to say, quality, look and appeal has massively deteriorated since the early days.
I love it and I think the fit is the best on all your jackets. These jackets must be worn short and snug or they don't look as cool as they should in my opinion.
Contrary to most people here I do like the leather patterm and yes it does remind of crosshatch grain leather that imitates the Russian Reindeer mentioned above. A few shoe brands sell that kind of leather too although it's obviously not the original which I believe only Cleverley has access to.
Once it has adapted to your body and broken in I think it will look amazing. Please wear it straight for a few weeks/a month to see how it wears!