I haven't gotten to the end of this thread so it may show up, but I'm surprised no one has mentioned the material. I'm sure the original was all cotton. Today Brooks Brothers makes an all cotton one (although it is sans gun flap). Burberry markets a made in the US cotton polyester blends without gun flap, and a UK made, all cotton one with gun flap. I love the looks of the UK Burberry, but it sells for $1450 which is a ridiculous for a cotton product.