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What era does this suit convey to the forum?

Levallois

Practically Family
Messages
676
I'm trying to learn about the characteristcs that identify a suit for various eras. I purchased this suit recently but haven't received it yet and I'm looking at the photos wondering if I made a mistake (I know, it's kind of late now). What era does this suit "say" to the membership? Thanks!

9YA5BZN7WGC9.jpg


FPUUCBCN98LJ.jpg


UB7T4RDTML83.jpg
 

Maj.Nick Danger

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,469
Location
Behind the 8 ball,..
I'm no expert but by the look of it,..I'd say mid to late thirties. The 4 pocket vest with 6 buttons is typical of that era. (If however it is made of polyester,..it's a seventies knockoff as the seventies saw a resurgence of thirties inspired styles.):eek:
It looks to be in very nice condition for it's age. :)
 

Wolfmanjack

Practically Family
Messages
547
Wearing a DB jacket and a waistcoat was rarely done in any era. Perhaps a bit more common in the UK than in the US. Also more common in colder climes. The braces buttons on the outside of the trousers also suggests a British heritage. Does it have a button or a zipper fly (looks like a zipper)? If it buttons, that would rule out a '60 or '70s revival, of course.
 

Chad Sanborn

A-List Customer
Messages
428
Location
Atlanta, Ga
I would say 38-39. I have a 39 that has a very similar cut to the jacket lapels. The 'v' on mine is a bit shallower. But mine also didn't come with a vest. So maybe the longer jacket opening is to show the vest.

Also, just noticed the pants have inversed pleats. (facing the zipper) Not outward facing pleats. This fact coupled with the brace buttons on the outside of the waistband, lead me to believe its of English tailoring.
 

Mr. 'H'

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,110
Location
Dublin, Ireland, Ireland
I would have thought that this suit was from the 1990s judging by the picture of the trousers. It doesn't look like a suit from the 30s or 40s to me.

I'll bet this suit is a lot lighter than vintage suits. And the fabric looks more springy than vintage fabric.

I have a similar suit, RL made in the 90s and it is in the "vintage inspired" family.
 

Forgotten Man

One Too Many
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1,944
Location
City Dump 32 E. River Sutton Place.
Wolfmanjack said:
Wearing a DB jacket and a waistcoat was rarely done in any era.

Well my dear man, I may suggest you watch any WB or M-G-M or any other American made movie from the periods of 1920 to 1941 and you'd find most men leading or not wore mostly three piece suits! Double breasted three pieces were very common at one time in America and I'm a fan of them.

Brace buttons were on the out-side of the waistband here in the states too! I'd like to also point out that a lot of the immigrant tailors from Europe had to do with a lot of English and Italian influences appearing in men's fashion through the periods.

To suggest a double breasted three piece look wasn't common in any era seems a bit extreme wouldn't you agree?

The suit in question gives me the feeling of one that was made for a period movie that was to be set in about the mid 30s. Four pocket vests have been common place in men's three piece business suits since the 20s to the early 50s when there were men who still wanted a typical business suit made.

My self personally, I think the suit will bring much enjoyment and will look rather nice if pressed right and make sure to get your dry cleaner to press a nice sharp crease in the sleeves! That will make it even more believable!
 

Fletch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,865
Location
Iowa - The Land That Stuff Forgot
Forgotten Man said:
To suggest a three piece look wasn't common in any era seems a bit extreme and uninformed.
They were pretty declassé for much of the 1990s. They'd gotten stereotyped during the 80s, when PJ O'Rourke typed them as the uniform of "middle management meatballs."

The meatball suit is usually available cheap on eBay - always 2-button with the stiff bowed-out lapels, always grey or blue, and always always always pinstriped. The vest went with the pinstripes - no pinstripes, no vest.
 

GoldenEraFan

One Too Many
Messages
1,164
Location
Brooklyn, New York
I agree with everyone else, late '30s early '40s. The hints to me are, the vest and the fact that it's tapered. I noticed WWII and postwar suits didn't have tapering I think in part to war rationing and or the "bold look" after the war made it passe.
 

Wolfmanjack

Practically Family
Messages
547
Forgotten Man said:
To suggest a double breasted three piece look wasn't common in any era seems a bit extreme wouldn't you agree?

I quite agree. It was indeed a bit extreme. I should have said "less common." I stand corrected.


Forgotten Man said:
Double breasted three pieces were very common at one time in America and I'm a fan of them.

I have to confess that I've never worn a Double-breasted three-piece, or even tried on one. In my naïveté, it seems that three layers of fabric (four along the vest button-line) would be thick and heavy on the front. As a fan of the Double-breasted three-piece, how do you find them in this regard?
 

Nick D

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,166
Location
Upper Michigan
Whatever the era, that's a fine looking suit. I'm on the hunt for a db 3-piece myself, but no luck yet.

I noticed that there were a lot of db 3-pieces in 30s and 40s movies, and that often the men wearing them left their jackets open.
 

Wolfmanjack

Practically Family
Messages
547
FYI, Here is a three-piece, double-breasted number that Tom Ford is currently offering. At something from $3,500 to $5,000 for his off-the-rack suits, you have to really like the look. Take a look at those roped shoulders!
tom-ford-suit.jpg


IMHO, I think a DB suit looks terrible hanging open, no matter whether there is a vest under it or not. Imagine how the model above would look if he removed his hands from his pockets. He'd have this enormous, loose curtain of fabric hanging in front :eek: :eek:.

A white-tie tailcoat or a Prince Charlie jacket is, of course, quite another kettle of fish. These are cut with the expectation that they will be worn unbuttoned.

Then again, this is just one person's opinion.
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
Mr. 'H' said:
I would have thought that this suit was from the 1990s judging by the picture of the trousers. It doesn't look like a suit from the 30s or 40s to me.


IMO this suit strongly conveys the look of a late 1930s piece, but I do think that it was made in the 1980s or '90s. As Mr. 'H' notes, the trousers indicate its age. I also think that it's British, or from Hong Kong.


.
 

Mr. 'H'

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,110
Location
Dublin, Ireland, Ireland
Marc Chevalier said:
IMO this suit strongly conveys the look of a late 1930s piece, but I do think that it was made in the 1980s or '90s. As Mr. 'H' notes, the trousers indicate its age. I also think that it's British, or from Hong Kong.


.

Phew, I was almost doubting myself there for a moment, in that my opinion was so at odds with all the others!

:eusa_doh:
 

Widebrim

I'll Lock Up
Wolfmanjack said:
FYI, Here is a three-piece, double-breasted number that Tom Ford is currently offering. At something from $3,500 to $5,000 for his off-the-rack suits, you have to really like the look. Take a look at those roped shoulders!
tom-ford-suit.jpg


IMHO, I think a DB suit looks terrible hanging open, no matter whether there is a vest under it or not. Imagine how the model above would look if he removed his hands from his pockets. He'd have this enormous, loose curtain of fabric hanging in front :eek: :eek:.

A white-tie tailcoat or a Prince Charlie jacket is, of course, quite another kettle of fish. These are cut with the expectation that they will be worn unbuttoned.

Then again, this is just one person's opinion.

I agree.
 

BellyTank

I'll Lock Up
It is a fine looking suit but I'm also in the camp who say it's a more modern suit with classic styling.
There are some issues with proportion and buttoning which give me an impression of a retro-styled suit, rather than vintage- also the cloth looks to be of a style, weight (lighter) and colour, more from the last 20 years, rather than '30s/'40s. There is obvious, built-in waist suppression in the jacket but it is also exaggerated by the shadows at both sides of the waist.
The skinny, sewn-on waistband may also be a good clue to later years.

And as has also been said, British, or Empire-Asian manufacture.


Nice suit.


B
T
 

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