What's your favorite era for fashion?

[decodoll]

We seem to have the same preferences erawise. I just love 1939! I love little doll hats and the darling puffed sleeved blouses that were so popular!

I guess I have a mid-50's and earlier build as well. I like to sew a lot of my clothes from vintage patterns, and I can use a vintage size 14 right out of the envelope with no alterations. After the mid-1950's they changed the proportions, and I always have to adjust the patterns to fit.

 

[Lauren]

In the 20th century, definately the 1930's... especially hollywood style. There's something about those huge sleeves and all the satins and bias cut low back dresses that send me. And the lovely marcel waves in their hair. The 30's feedsack dresses and wide leg tap pants are great too. And the shoes... I am still pining for a pair of 30's spectator oxfords.

 

[jitterbugdoll]

Oh, I agree! The 1930s-early 40s were so delightfully feminine! And the details creatively worked into the clothing were very ingenious. Even the simplest black frock always hides elements that make it not so basic after all!

I love puffed sleeves, although I think many modern women would be slightly horrified by them. In fact, I read somewhere that James King was more a less a trooper for wearing them in Pearl Harbor. Here’s a quote from InStyle Magazine: “She bent over backward to respect the period. And that included the daily wearing of puffy-sleeve dresses and masking of her many tattoos.� I get the impression that doing so was a difficult thing…[huh]

I especially love how modern Hollywood attaches itself to these vintage styles and then proceeds to act as if they’ve discovered something brand new!

 

[Lauren]

Ha ha! SO true! I'm sure you all saw the 50's inspired dresses on the red carpet for the Academy Awards. But thanks be to God that they aren't showing skin from the collarbone to the navel this year!

 

[jitterbugdoll]

There were some lovely 30s-40s inspirations, too (Cate Blanchett's gown was stunning!) Everyone likes to credit celebrities for being so fashion savvy and ingenious--but I always think "haven't I seen that look before? Oh yeah, in the wardrobe I have collected from vintage stores..."

You forgot about Hilary Swank's gown, which exposed her entire back in a nearly indecent manner. I know what the designer was aiming for (1930s starlet meets the Hayes Production Code), but the gown was a bit too stiff/structured for my tastes! Fabrics of today, even pure silks of the finest quality, just don’t seem to have the feel and drape of yesteryear’s fabrics…

 

[jitterbugdoll]

I've got a question for you Lauren--I'm thinking about going back to school (I've got a B.A. in Journalism) and I would love to concentrate on fashion history (I'd really like to work for a museum, I think.) Since this is what you have a background in, can you suggest any schools/programs? I work with the University of Phoenix, which means I receive free tuition when studying one of their programs, and a certain percentage of my tuition paid if I attend another school.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Lauren]

Yes, Cate Blanchett's gown was definately my favorite. I adore her!

Hmm... schools... In my experience at fashion school the students seemed to be much more interested with keeping up with the latest trends than studying costume history, and even getting them to relate historic fashion to modern fashion (as we were discussing in this forum) seemed to be a stretch to many. As a result I found the cirriculum very dulled down on the study of costume (in my opinion, so that the students could pass). The school I was anxious to go to, but not anxious to move to, was FIT in New York (Fashion Institute of Technology) which offers a graduate program called FASHION AND TEXTILE STUDIES: HISTORY, THEORY, MUSEUM PRACTICE. If you're thinking of going to school for fashion, you may want to check out the colleges around your area and ask people who are either enrolled in or have graduated from the program you're interested in (I made the mistake not to do that and take the school's word for it). Modern fashion design and patternmaking can be applied to vintage clothing design and costruction and provide a foundation you can build on, but it is still different than the way clothing was draped, patterned, and made than it is now. What has helped me a lot was applying what I learned in school (and prior) to books from the time period about sewing, clothing construction, and patternmaking. And vintage sewing patterns themselves are an invaluable resource because you can see for yourself what the cut was actually like and what people actually would have worn (not what Vogue said was fashionable. It really hasn't changed that much as far as the impracticality of haute couture, even though they can be pleasing to look at). I also learned a lot from having mentors that I can ask questions of. Or at least finding people who know more than I do that will impart wisdom to me. Check out if the International Costumer's Guild or the Costume Society of America has a division in your area, and get in touch with them. Even though ICG seems to do mostly Victorian and earlier, there are a few who know about 20th century costume as well. I really wanted to work in a museam as well in the textile and costume division, but San Diego doesn't seem to be the place for it (and I've descided if I ever get wealthy that I will have my own. That's my big dream! ). You can find a local museam with a textile and costume division and ask to contact the person in charge to ask what your plan of attack should be. Well, hope that helps, and let me know if I can help out any more!
Lauren

 

[MissTayva]

Ugh, I totally thought Hilary Swank's dress was tacky. It was almost if she had it on backward!
It was refreshing, however, to see all of the vintage-inspired styles this year, rather than those from previous years that had everyone's goodies hanging out!

As to which era is my favorite... well, it varies. When it comes to shoes, I definitely favor mid-to-late 1940s designs (with the 1950s Spring-O-Lator being the only exception). I think the heel of '40s shoes are much more elegant looking. Not to mention, one can get away with wearing sky-high platforms without sacrificing comfort! I am also a fan of the wedges, they make for a versatile wardrobe. Clothing-wise, I love the '40s puff sleeve/tie front tops, wide-legged slacks and also the swimsuits of that era!

Overall, I prefer early-to-mid 1950s styles. I love the look of full hips with a wasp-waist! Personally, I think the styles suit me more. I also love the flashier "atomic" prints, and fabrics such as lurex and lame'. I've always loved to make a statement, I suppose that's why I am so drawn to the style!

Jitterbugdoll-- Have you looked into FIDM in Los Angeles? I know a few gals who have gone there and have been pleased with the program. A few have started their own vintage-inspired clothing lines. One gal, in particular, has even worked in Hollywood and is responsible for recreating some astounding looking gowns and ensembles (think L.A. Confidential). From what I understand, they offer a 'history' sort of program for those looking to go into costuming. How funny-- I also have my degree in journalism... although I despise working in the field!

 

[Lauren]

I graduated from FIDM in LA, and I thought it was kind of a joke, as did most people I graduated with. I even accepted into the Costume Design for Film and Television program after I completed my degree, but overall it seemed unorganized and not to what they promised. I have heard the Costume Design for Theatre program is good for historical costume, but not from any of the graduates, but rather the school itself. Since it is a private and unaccredited school little of my credits that I completed were transferrable, and many of the graduates I know had to start from scratch to get a B.A. elsewhere (FIDM only offers a A.A.), and the rules varied from teacher to teacher in illustration and patterndrafting, since the school allowed them to teach their methods instead of a uniform method that continued on as you progressed.

Then again, the school taught me what I needed to know... I just think it could be done in a more efficient and less costly manner. But that's only my opinion...

MissTayva, do your friends who went to FIDM have websites? I'd love to see their lines! And I agree that 40's slacks were FANTASTIC!!!

Funny you guys both have degrees in Journalism- I wanted to go back to school for English after I graduated FIDM!

 

[MissTayva]

I had pondered the idea of attending FIDM, but we are relocating elsewhere soon (not L.A.), so hopefully down South will hold similar opportunities.

One of my friends is currently in the process of starting her own vintage reproduction sewing pattern line. Not sure if she has done so just yet, but I saw some of her designs and they were quite nice! She has basically replicated designs from Hawaiian designers Shaheen, Kamehameha, etc., as well as reproductions of designer formals, etc.

Another gal who attended FIDM (I am almost positive) now runs http://www.queenofheartz.com. I don't know her personally, but we have mutual friends. I can attest to her skills, as I have seen her custom work, which is quite astounding!

My husband knows the gal who did all the costume designing for L.A. Cinfidential, et. al and she attended FIDM-- I am almost positive she told me that (she is an older lady). I know she has recently started a website... I will post it if I recall her business name/URL. Anyway, she also does the Hawaiian repro thing. Her designs are absolutely breathtaking! Her choice in fabrics is astounding, I don't know where she finds this stuff. Very authentic looking!

I think, though, why these gals have done so well and have a flair for vintage style is because they were interested it before attending FIDM and probably delved into it on their own. I have been thinking about it, and most local community colleges-- especiallly Mormon-based towns in Arizona-- seem to offer sewing/design/pattern drafting courses. It seems from your explanation, when it comes down to it, the only difference is that FIDM offers marketing classes, not to mention the 'prestigious' name.

I am SO over working in the journalism field. I worked as the assitant editor for a weekly publication for nearly three years and finally got fed up. I even made the switch over to graphics/advertising, as well as circulation, and didn't like it. I think it has to do with working on deadline-- I stress too much! I started working in the field at age 16 as a photo editor and editorial assistant... that's probably why I grew tired of it. Journalism and school was my life!

 

[jitterbugdoll]

Mmm, I adore 1940s platforms! They’re so elegant and sexy at the same time. Wedges are also great, and there are some very creative designs floating around. Oh, and you can't forget baby doll pumps--I am so sick of seeing pointy-toed shoes! I find them terribly uncomfortable and they make most feet look rather ungainly!

Thanks for the suggestions, ladies! I’ve got at least a few months before I start taking classes, so I will research my options and see what I can do. My ultimate goal is to attend school for as little cost as possible, so I might have to study fashion design in a less-traditional way. (Actually, what I need to do is take a few sewing courses and delve into my vintage pattern collection!) When I lived in Savannah, Georgia, I really wanted to attend SCAD—how is their fashion design program? Since my husband wants to finish out his art degree as well, perhaps we’ll end up moving to an area that will fit both of our needs.

MissTayva-where did you go to school? I see that you are out in Chandler--I live in Mesa, and I have a sister that lives in Chandler. Do you ever attend any of the swing dance events in the valley? Since we live relatively close, and seem to share the same interests, we might have to get together sometime!

 

[jitterbugdoll]

MissTayva--I completely agree with you--the field of journalism is too fast paced and cutthroat for me! I knew as soon as I took my first reporting class that I did not want to work for the newspaper. After graduation, I got lucky and spent two years as a tech writer for a health insurance company. It was interesting job and I learned a lot about medicine (I wrote reports on the various high risk patients in case management), but I got very bored after a while and moved on to other things. I now work for a university as an editor, and I like my new position very much.
However, I find myself so fascinated with history and vintage fashion that I feel compelled to merge my interests. I love to learn and I do have a few ideas for potential businesses, so I am waiting to see what happens right now!

 

[Lauren]

That is so great that they are becoming successful! I am trying to start a line of vintage repros too... if my finances start to come together! And I considered starting a pattern line too, but pattern drafting seems to be my enemy... I would love to see her line once she gets it up and running!

I met one other girl while I was at FIDM that wore vintage and repro 30's every single day. She and I were both getting into vintage patterns at the time, so it was nice to have someone to talk to about similar interests, and I am so blessed to have you lovely ladies to talk to online! There aren't too many people into vintage and clothing history in my area (North County San Diego).

In the meantime, I'm still plugging along at putting up my vintage website. It takes so dang long! It's called Blue Magnolia.

I think sewing classes would be a great idea! Many people I met in the industry said a degree in design was not nessecary to be in fashion design. I think with personal dedication you can totally get it.

And if you guys are interested, Costume College (put on by Costumers Guild West) happens out here the end of July for 3 or 4 days. It is a blast!Although it covers mostly pre 20th century costume, it also has sewing classes and the like that can be applied. It's basically all classes and lectures for costuming, and there's often classes about vintage collecting, dating, and selling on ebay, and the like. I'll be there if you guys want to come out!

 

[MissTayva]

Oh, and you can't forget baby doll pumps--I am so sick of seeing pointy-toed shoes! I find them terribly uncomfortable and they make most feet look rather ungainly!
MissTayva-where did you go to school? I see that you are out in Chandler--I live in Mesa, and I have a sister that lives in Chandler. Do you ever attend any of the swing dance events in the valley? Since we live relatively close, and seem to share the same interests, we might have to get together sometime!

How I wish I could find a decent pair of baby doll pumps-- even if they are repros! ReMix has them now... I was in the store two years ago, and the owner had a prototype baby doll shoe that he showed me. I was really pleased with how the toe looked, it was really authentic, but the heel wasn't all that great. He didn't seem too pleased with it, either... but now that he is finally selling them, it doesn't look like much had changed from the original prototype. The platforms, however, look pretty nice. The black ones, anyway. The rest of the colors are a bit over-the-top for my liking!

I did most of my school at a community college and then transfered the rest of NAU (I despise that place, haha!). Yep, over here in Chandler. I don't care for Chandler, for the most part, but luckily we live right on the border of Mesa and Tempe, so it's not too out of the way!
I've never attended any of the swing events... nor any event! I have three kids, so I really don't get out much. Nor do I dance! Hehe... My husband is a musician, so he's out quite a bit. I don't know many people out here, and my family is very unreliable, so I'm usually stuck at home being mommy 98% of the time!
It's refreshing to know that there is someone else out here with similar interests as I! I am no elitist by any means, but I do enjoy having intelligible conversations with someone who is knowledgable about things I like-- such as clothing, furniture, music, etc. In fact, anytime I do go out anywhere, I am met with whispers and dirty looks, or get talked about by people whom I have never met... weirdness!
Oh, and I noticed that you are on Makeup Alley, as well! I just signed up over there. The reviews over there are very handy, no? ;-)

 

[MissTayva]

MissTayva--I completely agree with you--the field of journalism is too fast paced and cutthroat for me! I knew as soon as I took my first reporting class that I did not want to work for the newspaper. After graduation, I got lucky and spent two years as a tech writer for a health insurance company. It was interesting job and I learned a lot about medicine (I wrote reports on the various high risk patients in case management), but I got very bored after a while and moved on to other things. I now work for a university as an editor, and I like my new position very much.
However, I find myself so fascinated with history and vintage fashion that I feel compelled to merge my interests. I love to learn and I do have a few ideas for potential businesses, so I am waiting to see what happens right now!

I hated the reporting aspect of it. I'm sure you're familiar with Kareem Abdul-Jabar, once famous NBA player. He was assistant coach for a high school basketball team. Basketball games were always a part of my assignment (photos), and the game between our local school and the school he coached for was no exception. Well, except for I was supposed to take a ton of photos, try and get an interview, etc. The poor guy was SURROUNDED by various members of the media. It was evident that all of these people were really getting on his nerves. I was supposed to be doing the same exact thing, but I couldn't bring myself to do it! I know I would be totally annoyed by that... so I just shot photos of him with my long lens and left it at that! I hate all of that in-your-face style of reporting, which seems to be what people thrive on!
I did a lot of freelance work, but that got monotonous after a while (I prefer to write about subjects I am interested in!). I basically use my skills now for technical writing-- for various websites and such. I think I enjoy my current line of work quite a bit-- working from HOME, designing websites and such!

 

[MissTayva]

That is so great that they are becoming successful! I am trying to start a line of vintage repros too... if my finances start to come together! And I considered starting a pattern line too, but pattern drafting seems to be my enemy... I would love to see her line once she gets it up and running!

I met one other girl while I was at FIDM that wore vintage and repro 30's every single day. She and I were both getting into vintage patterns at the time, so it was nice to have someone to talk to about similar interests, and I am so blessed to have you lovely ladies to talk to online! There aren't too many people into vintage and clothing history in my area (North County San Diego).

In the meantime, I'm still plugging along at putting up my vintage website. It takes so dang long! Here's a link if you guys want to check it out: Blue Magnolia

Oooh, I saw a couple of pieces on your site that I adore! I wish I had the money to spare; my husband just bought several pieces of vintage clothing from eBay, so there went all of our extra $$!
I used to live in San Diego, as well. You're right; there doesn't seem to be many people around into vintage around there.

 

[decodoll]

My husband knows the gal who did all the costume designing for L.A. Cinfidential, et. al and she attended FIDM-- I am almost positive she told me that (she is an older lady). I know she has recently started a website... I will post it if I recall her business name/URL. Anyway, she also does the Hawaiian repro thing. Her designs are absolutely breathtaking! Her choice in fabrics is astounding, I don't know where she finds this stuff. Very authentic looking!

Is it Whirling Turban? I just got a sarong dress from her and was very impressed. I know she used to be a Hollywood costume designer....can's remember if L.A. Confidential was on her about me pages or not. She works out of Bali, and I think that is where she gets most of her fabric.

 

[decodoll]

How I wish I could find a decent pair of baby doll pumps-- even if they are repros! ReMix has them now... I was in the store two years ago, and the owner had a prototype baby doll shoe that he showed me. I was really pleased with how the toe looked, it was really authentic, but the heel wasn't all that great. He didn't seem too pleased with it, either... but now that he is finally selling them, it doesn't look like much had changed from the original prototype. The platforms, however, look pretty nice. The black ones, anyway. The rest of the colors are a bit over-the-top for my liking!

I actually just got a pair of the red babydolls in the mail today. I think they're really cute, although I did have to send them back already. The website says they run big, but as far as I can tell they are pretty true to size. So of course I had ordered a half size too small! The platforms look really cute too! I love the bow. I just really wanted a pair of red babydolls.

 

[MissTayva]

Is it Whirling Turban? I just got a sarong dress from her and was very impressed. I know she used to be a Hollywood costume designer....can's remember if L.A. Confidential was on her about me pages or not. She works out of Bali, and I think that is where she gets most of her fabric.

Yeah, that's her. They used to be neighbors!
I've yet to purchase one of her designs, but I know someone who has, and I heard they are to die for!

I actually just got a pair of the red babydolls in the mail today. I think they're really cute, although I did have to send them back already. The website says they run big, but as far as I can tell they are pretty true to size. So of course I had ordered a half size too small! The platforms look really cute too! I love the bow. I just really wanted a pair of red babydolls.

I will have to 'test drive' them again when I stop in there. I know all of the other shoes-- the wedges-- run small. If I remember correctly, the prototype he had of the baby dolls were indeed true to size. I also remember loving how they showed just the right amount of toe 'cleavage'!
I think the manufacturer did a great job on the platforms. I just can't stand the colors he picked out! I told him he should make some colorful ones (in regards to the purple plats I mentioned in my previous post)... Guess he took that comment to heart, haha!

 

[Lauren]

Is it Whirling Turban? I just got a sarong dress from her and was very impressed. I know she used to be a Hollywood costume designer....can's remember if L.A. Confidential was on her about me pages or not. She works out of Bali, and I think that is where she gets most of her fabric.

Hey, I know who you're talking about! The lady who owns the vintage store here in Oceanside is going to carry her dresses. I was playing around on her website the other day. Very impressive!

Oooh, I saw a couple of pieces on your site that I adore! I wish I had the money to spare; my husband just bought several pieces of vintage clothing from eBay, so there went all of our extra $$!

Thanks a bunch! I am just excited you took a look! Hopefully, I will have it all up soon, and I'm hoping to sell to the Vintage Expo in Santa Monica in April/May, as I'm on the waiting list for a booth right now.