Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Sonero]

Yes, it might be difficult to source the vintage Kersey wool.

The wool used on my two vintage peacoat feels like cashmere compared to what you get today. With that said Schott does a very good job nonetheless . I also own a Sterling but Schott uses thicker wool. The difference is the cut of the Schott is cut more roomy like and overcoat (which I like) vs a blazer tailored fit. I use both in different weather situations but for cold weather I choose the Schott hands down.

 

[Dr H]

Sadly, I’m now considering selling my Ralph Lauren replica WW1 peacoat. Post weight loss, it’s just too large for me.
I have picked up a couple of vintage 42R peacoats (1940s and 1970) as replacements.

 

[Dr H]

Delighted to have received a 1940s peacoat recently in a size 42. Marginally trimmer fit than the 1970 peacoat that I bought a month or so ago and also in fabulous condition. Fit is also very good, even the sleeves!
@Peacoat Ron, does this look like a 1949 label?

 

[Peacoat]

@Dr H I would say that is a 1947 or earlier tag. I believe this was the tag that came in with the post WWII coats. The 1949 tag had additional lines for Service Number and Contract Number. The line for Rate was discontinued and a line for the Size was added below the other lines.

 

[Sonero]

Has anyone owned a Pike Bros Elephant Skin Peacoat and how would you rate them ?

 

[Sonero]

Has anyone owned a Pike Bros Elephant Skin Peacoat and how would you rate them ?

I need to respond to my own post. Wow, I am super impressed with " German Leather ". The fabric feels like an incredibly tough workwear twill but of much higher quality and very thick. I highly recommend the Pike Brothers E Skin Peacoat.

 

[O'DubhGhaill]

There should be a tag just below the inside vest pocket that gives good information, but may or may not tell the actual manufacturer. But that isn't all that important. What is important is that you have a WWII peacoat.

@Astroboy posted a link to an excellent guide, written by the world's foremost authority in the dating of US Navy peacoats. There is a huge peacoat thread around here somewhere. I may merge this thread with the big thread just to keep everything together.

I cannot seem to find that link?

 

[Peacoat]

I cannot seem to find that link?

Here you go:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-dating-the-united-states-navy-peacoat.72058/

 

[BigBrother]

So, as I see it, I have five options (each with a drawback):

1. Used from a surplus store. Drawback: though in my memory these tend to be in good shape, they are impossible to find these days for some reason (at least all around So Cal).

2. New Navy issue. Drawback: will need to make it to a Navy Exchange and even then I’m not sure they’ll let me try them on as a civilian (acquiring I can do through various vet friends of mine).

3. Vintage (online). Drawback: unlike most everyone on here, I’m sure, I can’t buy clothes online. I absolutely need to try things on before I buy them, so unless clothes are new and can be returned, one-off vintage items online are almost always a no-go for me.

4. Vintage (store). Drawback: very hard to find and I feel, though this isn’t that substantiated, that the quality won’t be where I want it. I’m looking for something basically new or close to it. (As said above, surplus ones tend to be in great shape. Vintage stores I fear won’t be as much.)

5. New non-Navy issue. Drawback: sure, there are loads of options from different manufacturers if I go this route, but I don’t want a “close” pea coat, I want the exact one the Navy issues (or at least did until they stopped in 2019 :\).

What are your thoughts, all? Where would you send me? Man I miss the days when you could peruse rack(s) of these at surplus stores!!

Thanks!

 

[Peacoat]

So, as I see it, I have five options (each with a drawback):

1. Used from a surplus store. Drawback: though in my memory these tend to be in good shape, they are impossible to find these days for some reason (at least all around So Cal).

2. New Navy issue. Drawback: will need to make it to a Navy Exchange and even then I’m not sure they’ll let me try them on as a civilian (acquiring I can do through various vet friends of mine).

3. Vintage (online). Drawback: unlike most everyone on here, I’m sure, I can’t buy clothes online. I absolutely need to try things on before I buy them, so unless clothes are new and can be returned, one-off vintage items online are almost always a no-go for me.

4. Vintage (store). Drawback: very hard to find and I feel, though this isn’t that substantiated, that the quality won’t be where I want it. I’m looking for something basically new or close to it. (As said above, surplus ones tend to be in great shape. Vintage stores I fear won’t be as much.)

5. New non-Navy issue. Drawback: sure, there are loads of options from different manufacturers if I go this route, but I don’t want an “close” pea coat, I want the exact one the Navy issues (or at least did until they stopped in 2019 :\).

What are your thoughts, all? Where would you send me? Man I miss the days when you could peruse rack(s) of these at surplus stores!!

Thanks!

@BigBrother I have moved your thread to this, the main Peacoat thread.

OPTIONS:

1. I'm not sure "real" peacoats are still sold at surplus stores. This option is probably out.

2. I doubt that peacoats are still sold at Navy Exchange stores as they were phased out starting in 2019, as you noted above. Plus, even if they are still sold there, civilians aren't allowed to purchase anything at the exchanges. I can purchase at the online Army exchange, but being the Army, they don't sell peacoats, or I would get one for you. This option is out.

3. This is probably your only viable option. See comments below.

4. There used to be a vintage store in Manhattan that had a selection of peacoats. It has been years since I heard anything about them. Plus, you are on the west coast. This option is out.

5. You have already eliminated this option, and rightfully so. This was never a real option.

As to Option 3, buying vintage online: I agree with you that buying coats and jackets online can be a crapshoot, but there are certain things we can do to put the odds more in our favor. Fortunately for you, the world's foremost authority on US Navy peacoats has written an article that is available here on the Fedora Lounge in the Guides section (see link below). The first part of the guide explains how to date the Navy peacoat. Toward the end is a section on how to get a good fit when buying online. After you read the guide, if you have any questions, ask me and I will contact the author for a definitive answer.

The important points in the Guide:

1. Up through 1979, almost all peacoats were made of the very excellent Kersey shell, with the best year being 1949. From 1980 to phase out, the shell was the Melton wool, which isn't as desirable. Get a pre 1980 peacoat. At least one contract in about 1978 was for the Melton wool. If the coat is from 1977 or 1978, ensure the tag says "Kersey Wool."

2. The most important measurements are the p2p and the sleeve. Usually, but not always, the stated tag size is the size of the jacket. For example, a size 42 peacoat should have a p2p of 22 1/4". A man with a 41" or 42" chest will have enough room for a sweater under the coat. A size 40 coat (p2p of 21 1/4") will give a closer and trimmer fit without room for layering. A coat is always measured p2p and chests are always measured around the entire chest (circumference). To measure differently induces error in the measurement, and to interchange the language causes unnecessary confusion.

Good luck in the hunt. We have all been in your shoes. PC


https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-dating-the-united-states-navy-peacoat.72058/

 

[Gav]

I’m ready to get bitten by the peacoat bug. Thinking of a buzz or rmc repro - any strong opinions on those?
I’d like a good condition ww2 era original but getting one in my size might be tricky. I guess I’d need a 46, chest measurement is about 43”.

 

[Peacoat]

I’m ready to get bitten by the peacoat bug. Thinking of a buzz or rmc repro - any strong opinions on those?
I’d like a good condition ww2 era original but getting one in my size might be tricky. I guess I’d need a 46, chest measurement is about 43”.

You need to know your exact chest measurement. If your chest measures 43' you can wear a 44 with room for a sweater and a size 42 for a trim fit without room for layering. This is in the Navy issued peacoats; I have no idea how the civilian versions are fitted. If you go by the p2p measurement, you ought to get the right size.

A size 44 should have a p2p of 26 1/4 and a size 42 should have a p2p of 24 1/4.

In a WWII peacoat, sizes 44 and up are rare. A 42 is a little easier to find, but not by much. I have had two of the size 42 WWII peacoats.

 

[Gav]

Thanks! That is very helpful. I am pretty much 43” spot on. I’ll start looking for a 44

 

[BigBrother]

@BigBrother I have moved your thread to this, the main Peacoat thread.

2. I doubt that peacoats are still sold at Navy Exchange stores as they were phased out starting in 2019, as you noted above. Plus, even if they are still sold there, civilians aren't allowed to purchase anything at the exchanges. I can purchase at the online Army exchange, but being the Army, they don't sell peacoats, or I would get one for you. This option is out.

Well, they seem to at least per here:

https://www.mynavyexchange.com/navy-men-s-peacoat/12839324

and I have a few Navy vet friends so should be able to go that route if desired.

Thank you so much for all the rest. I remarked to myself today once again how I find TFL the be one of the single most sophisticated, mature, pleasant, informed, polite, and all around rewarding forums in which I've ever participated online. And your reply reaffirmed all of that!

 

[Peacoat]

Well, they seem to at least per here:

https://www.mynavyexchange.com/navy-men-s-peacoat/12839324

and I have a few Navy vet friends so should be able to go that route if desired.

Thank you so much for all the rest. I remarked to myself today once again how I find TFL the be one of the single most sophisticated, mature, pleasant, informed, polite, and all around rewarding forums in which I've ever participated online. And your reply reaffirmed all of that!

Yes, that is the Navy Exchange. I am registered on the Army Exchange. There is no crossover between the two. I tried a couple of years ago. Also, I tried to register at the Navy Exchange—no go as I was already registered at the Army Exchange.

I'm surprised the exchange still sells these coats as they have been replaced by the parka. Evidently they are still authorized to be worn. I imagine the changeover was, in large part, motivated by cost, just as the change from the pre 1980 Kersey to the less expensive Melton (1980 to current issue) was motivated entirely by cost. That was a mistake, and I think the change from the classic and iconic peacoat to a generic parka is an even bigger mistake.

 

[Peacoat]

There is a WWII peacoat listed for sale in the Classifieds, if interested.

 

[JONESLE7]

Thank you Peacoat for all of your contributions and your Peacoat Dating thread. It's been a pleasure reading and reviewing.

Does anyone have any tips/advice based on their experience on the thread type and source for the thread they use for resewing buttons on a peacoat?

The buttons holes for the peacoat are very tight. Is there a special type of thread, waxing, or process for sewing the buttons?

Do peacoat buttons frequently get loosened from regular use? How often do you have to resew or perform maintenance on the buttons to keep them tight?

What is the proper color thread to use for repairing buttons on a kersey wool coat?

The front pockets currently have the lower sewn directly through them. Is it reasonable to change this and have the lower buttons sewn only through the front of the outer pocket so that you can have full functional use of the exterior pockets?

Did I read someone say something about brushing their peacoat? Is there a brush recommendation and guidance/tips/frequency?

 

[Peacoat]

Thank you Peacoat for all of your contributions and your Peacoat Dating thread. It's been a pleasure reading and reviewing.

Does anyone have any tips/advice based on their experience on the thread type and source for the thread they use for resewing buttons on a peacoat?

The buttons holes for the peacoat are very tight. Is there a special type of thread, waxing, or process for sewing the buttons?

Do peacoat buttons frequently get loosened from regular use? How often do you have to resew or perform maintenance on the buttons to keep them tight?

What is the proper color thread to use for repairing buttons on a kersey wool coat?

The front pockets currently have the lower sewn directly through them. Is it reasonable to change this and have the lower buttons sewn only through the front of the outer pocket so that you can have full functional use of the exterior pockets?

Did I read someone say something about brushing their peacoat? Is there a brush recommendation and guidance/tips/frequency?

I prefer a thread with high nylon content. I use a backing button on the inside of the coat so the button is more secure. With this combination, the buttons ought to last as long as the owner.

Match the color thread to the color of the button—black.

None of my pockets are sewn through. When resewing a button, take care to not sew through the pocket.

For brushing, I prefer a fabric clothes brush as pictured below. Brush when needed, and always brush before storing for the summer.

 

[Webafile]

So I picked one of these to and wanted to give my comparison between the two jackets. I have had a Schott pea coat for the last few years and wear it when I go to work. (Live in Japan and walk 20 minutes from station to job) but I have been itching to pick up a vintage that is not a melton and was finally able to pick one up for a good price $50.

And finally here is a link to a short YouTube video comparing the 2.

 

[Peacoat]

Thank you for the review. Some comments:

1. On that particular tag the date will be the last number in the contract number. It will follow the letter "C." Looks as if the number in your coat might be a "61" which would be consistent with that style of tag. Please let us know if it looks like a "61" to you.

2. When sewing buttons on, use a small backing button on the inside. Careful not to sew through the interior pockets. Nylon thread or thread with high nylon content will be stronger and last longer than cotton thread. Black thread is proper with peacoats as one matches the thread to the color of the button and not the color of the coat.

3. As you noted, the vintage coat has a smoother and denser fabric (Kersey) than the Melton of the Schott. I think you will find it to be warmer than the Schott. Adding to the warmth is the fact that the Kersey shell is windproof. The Melton is not. In its advertising, Schott says its coats are built to WWII specs. They aren't. Kersey was spec for the WWII coats.

4. If you are concerned about warmth, a sweater worn under the coat exponentially increases its warmth. One of the design flaws of the peacoat is the amount of transfer of air at the cuffs and the hem. A sweater cuts down on the air transfer inside the peacoat which adds to its warmth. Also, a scarf keeps the neck and the chest warm in really cold weather.

Congratulations on a good purchase.