Fit Check Thread for Jackets

[Jon Crow]

that's nice. I used to own an Aero B3 but I found it really impractical; too bulky and warm, I only used it max. 2-3 days per year, no pockets and god forbid if I got caught in rain or snow, it was like being hugged by a wet Labrador.

Absolute wasted money for me here, sheepskin, I like the look of a Irvin though

 

[Oakbark]

Hi gents
This peacoat should be the interpretation cut of the 1930 era, with some obvious exceptions.
I was looking for a peacoat with enough room to wear a sport jacket or flannel underneath it, not often, but at least to have the chance to wear it and still feel comfortable.
Most of the time, I'd wear a peacoat with a chunky shawl cardigan or with a trucker denim jacket or with a heavy turtleneck pullover.
For reference in these pics, I'm only wearing a polo pullover in merino wool, gauge 12 (quite thin).
I say since now that it looks a little too big for my liking, regardless of whether it might be more or less acceptable, but latelyI've been switching with great effort from snug outfits to something more relaxed; just that I'm not used yet;

anyway, I know a peacoat should fall straight: not tight, but close to the body—it's not meant to be as roomy as an overcoat.
This is an online purchase: I asked for the measurements before buying, and they were quite accurate, but not perfect.
The chest is 24 inches, while they told me it was 23.
The shoulders are 19.3inches, while I was told they were 19.
The back length is 32.7 inches.
The coat has a Thinsulate lining (this is the last time I buy a coat with padded lining).
I'm 5ft 8.5, with wide and muscled shoulders, chest, and back.
Honestly, I'd return it, but I can't;


I believe (for now) that the overall length doesn't suit me well, and among the thousands of screens I took online, I see that most of the time people wear peacoats that end at their thumbs with their arms resting on their sides.
In my case, the coat is 1.35 inches longer than my thumb, which is a note for aesthetic assessments.
For technical info, the coat is 2.7 inches longer than my buttocks, so a bit longer than those 2 inches that are considered the max lenght “allowed”

I saw that 1910s-era peacoats with this same construction had a similar length, ending over the hand of the wearer, so longer than what is commonly considered the proper length for a peacoat.

During my online research, I found that several Japanese brands make this longer cut, and due to the fact that, generally speaking, Japanese men are not blessed with height as I'm not, their peacoats end even a bit lower than mine.
Do I like it? Not much, but I saw someone wearing the no-bridge peacoat from Private White that was long and roomy, and I liked it.

What do you guys think of the overall aesthetic of mine?
I want to add that the shoulder seams seem a bit extended, but I own some Neapolitan jackets with the same shoulder angles/construction, and they are perfect for accommodating my wide shoulders.

As you can see from one pic, my arm is very close to the coat, and I'm only wearing a thin pullover.
The arm length is obviously too long; I quickly folded them up to show how it would look after the tailor alteration.

I'm not so keen to get rid of this coat somehow, first of all because it took me many months of searching—first to figure out what type I wanted; then it was very hard to find a civilian brand in 100% wool like this one for a price lower than $600/700—and finally because I know a smaller size of this one I got would be too snug on me anyway;

it might be nicer because of a shorter length, but for the upper part, it would be too tight, especially if wearing something heavier than a thin pullover.
In this peacoat, I'm comfortable, but layering up with something, I already feel the coat is kinda tight on me.

I'd consider shortening it by 1 inch, but those pockets seem to be placed too low compared to other models I saw, so making the coat 1 inch shorter might mess with the proportions, plus the original cut of the 1910 or 1930 was actually long.

I also considered taking in it a bit, cause the lower part has more room, I mean under my ribs cage, so it would look more close, but still holding the comfort of the upper part.

Some comments from you all would be very appreciated, both for technical notes and from an aesthetic point of view, and if I could do something (allowed) to improve the fit.

I will buy another peacoat anyway, from another brand, maybe in a different cut, shorter for sure and with no padded lining, but I'd like to wear this one too, as long as it doesn't seem too wrong both for the technical features of a peacoat and for the aesthetic purpose on me.
Thank you all in advance.

 

[Oakbark]

These are the pics of the Private White I was talking about.
it's a different cut, 6 buttons and so on, but I like how he sports it, it looks comfy, relaxed, withouit looking bulky in my opinion: might it depend on the fact that it doesn't have a padded lining? I take for granted that he's wearing his proper size for that coat.
Regarding the padded vs no padded lining, I'm not so sure on my thoughts:
Talking about fabtrics for suit jackets, worsted wool and canvassed construction offer the best drape to the jacket, in comparison for example with cotton that doesn't drape.
Now, looking at original peacoats from the 2 wars, that have a thin lining, there are 2 scenarios; a close fit, makes the peacoat looks great, but if the peacoat fits a bit bigger it starts showing the worst defects, cause the wool of the coat is thick and it looks rigid all over the shoulders, arms and so on.
In turn, a quilted coat, it's easy to look bulky, as I feel mine looks like, considering that a smaller size should be the proper one for my height, but not for my built and my idea of layering up

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Hi gents
This peacoat should be the interpretation cut of the 1930 era, with some obvious exceptions.
I was looking for a peacoat with enough room to wear a sport jacket or flannel underneath it, not often, but at least to have the chance to wear it and still feel comfortable.
Most of the time, I'd wear a peacoat with a chunky shawl cardigan or with a trucker denim jacket or with a heavy turtleneck pullover.
For reference in these pics, I'm only wearing a polo pullover in merino wool, gauge 12 (quite thin).
I say since now that it looks a little too big for my liking, regardless of whether it might be more or less acceptable, but latelyI've been switching with great effort from snug outfits to something more relaxed; just that I'm not used yet;

anyway, I know a peacoat should fall straight: not tight, but close to the body—it's not meant to be as roomy as an overcoat.
This is an online purchase: I asked for the measurements before buying, and they were quite accurate, but not perfect.
The chest is 24 inches, while they told me it was 23.
The shoulders are 19.3inches, while I was told they were 19.
The back length is 32.7 inches.
The coat has a Thinsulate lining (this is the last time I buy a coat with padded lining).
I'm 5ft 8.5, with wide and muscled shoulders, chest, and back.
Honestly, I'd return it, but I can't;


I believe (for now) that the overall length doesn't suit me well, and among the thousands of screens I took online, I see that most of the time people wear peacoats that end at their thumbs with their arms resting on their sides.
In my case, the coat is 1.35 inches longer than my thumb, which is a note for aesthetic assessments.
For technical info, the coat is 2.7 inches longer than my buttocks, so a bit longer than those 2 inches that are considered the max lenght “allowed”

I saw that 1910s-era peacoats with this same construction had a similar length, ending over the hand of the wearer, so longer than what is commonly considered the proper length for a peacoat.

During my online research, I found that several Japanese brands make this longer cut, and due to the fact that, generally speaking, Japanese men are not blessed with height as I'm not, their peacoats end even a bit lower than mine.
Do I like it? Not much, but I saw someone wearing the no-bridge peacoat from Private White that was long and roomy, and I liked it.

What do you guys think of the overall aesthetic of mine?
I want to add that the shoulder seams seem a bit extended, but I own some Neapolitan jackets with the same shoulder angles/construction, and they are perfect for accommodating my wide shoulders.

As you can see from one pic, my arm is very close to the coat, and I'm only wearing a thin pullover.
The arm length is obviously too long; I quickly folded them up to show how it would look after the tailor alteration.

I'm not so keen to get rid of this coat somehow, first of all because it took me many months of searching—first to figure out what type I wanted; then it was very hard to find a civilian brand in 100% wool like this one for a price lower than $600/700—and finally because I know a smaller size of this one I got would be too snug on me anyway;

it might be nicer because of a shorter length, but for the upper part, it would be too tight, especially if wearing something heavier than a thin pullover.
In this peacoat, I'm comfortable, but layering up with something, I already feel the coat is kinda tight on me.

I'd consider shortening it by 1 inch, but those pockets seem to be placed too low compared to other models I saw, so making the coat 1 inch shorter might mess with the proportions, plus the original cut of the 1910 or 1930 was actually long.

I also considered taking in it a bit, cause the lower part has more room, I mean under my ribs cage, so it would look more close, but still holding the comfort of the upper part.

Some comments from you all would be very appreciated, both for technical notes and from an aesthetic point of view, and if I could do something (allowed) to improve the fit.

I will buy another peacoat anyway, from another brand, maybe in a different cut, shorter for sure and with no padded lining, but I'd like to wear this one too, as long as it doesn't seem too wrong both for the technical features of a peacoat and for the aesthetic purpose on me.
Thank you all in advance.

First coat too big all around, except maybe your belly, idk.
Second coat…no opinion. It’s not you wearing it.
B

 

[Eagledog]

Get rid of it. It looks ridiculous. The folded sleeves are way too long. It would look even stranger wearing a trucker jacket underneath. Like you were a homeless person layering up to transport your stuff to a new location.

 

[Oakbark]

Get rid of it. It looks ridiculous. The folded sleeves are way too long. It would look even stranger wearing a trucker jacket underneath. Like you were a homeless person layering up to transport your stuff to a new location.

I get your point, even though it doesn't add something more specific to my reasoning.
As I mentioned above, I folded the sleeves up, cause they would be the first easy job for the tailor.
A denim jacket probably wouldnt even fit for a realistic daily use, cause there's no room enough, especially on the back and on the arms.
I feel the coat tight even just trying it on at home sitting down and typing at the pc and wearing just a shirt underneath.
Btw, I got u see it bulky and I agree with you

 

[Eagledog]

If you up for a jacket project take it to a Taylor and see what they can do with it.
It needs to be examined in person by an expert Taylor.
I would probably move it along and look for something that is better suited to your needs.
Rather than trying to force the jacket to be something it is not.

 

[Oakbark]

If you up for a jacket project take it to a Taylor and see what they can do with it.
It needs to be examined in person by an expert Taylor.
I would probably move it along and look for something that is better suited to your needs.
Rather than trying to force the jacket to be something it is not.

Yes, I was expecting a different fit, still comfy, but not like this and now I'm browsing around to see examples of people / actors in movies wearing peacoats in a larger fit than the ( more correct one ). Some I like, some I don't.
Thanks for your input

 

[Peacoat]

Considering the problems you have in getting a decent fit, I would keep the coat, shorten the sleeves, obviously, and take an inch or so off of the overall length.

As it isn't a peacoat, but is a civilian copy of a peacoat, you can do anything you want with the fit. If you like it, then keep it and don't worry that it doesn't fit like a Navy peacoat, because it isn't.

 

[Oakbark]

Considering the problems you have in getting a decent fit, I would keep the coat, shorten the sleeves, obviously, and take an inch or so off of the overall length.

As it isn't a peacoat, but is a civilian copy of a peacoat, you can do anything you want with the fit. If you like it, then keep it and don't worry that it doesn't fit like a Navy peacoat, because it isn't.

Fair enough, thank you;
I called it an interpretation cut of a peacoat because it's not an original one. That said, it's less fancy than many other civilian copies, which is why I would like to stick to the proper silhouette of a peacoat.

My additional concern it that with that ( long length) combined with my short legs, it looks just a bit shorter than those short coats they make nowadays that should hit the knees like an overcoat, but brands make them shorter... and I don't like that shorter version.

For what I've seen, there are original peacoats from the 1910 or 1930 era in that length, but they didn't fit so bulky, and this is due to the different lining. It seems like too many things are against achieving a decent fit for this wannabe peacoat."

This community helps to clarify doubts that one internally already recognizes

 

[Peacoat]

Fair enough, thank you;
I called it an interpretation cut of a peacoat because it's not an original one. That said, it's less fancy than many other civilian copies, which is why I would like to stick to the proper silhouette of a peacoat.

My additional concern it that with that ( long length) combined with my short legs, it looks just a bit shorter than those short coats they make nowadays that should hit the knees like an overcoat, but brands make them shorter... and I don't like that shorter version.

For what I've seen, there are original peacoats from the 1910 or 1930 era in that length, but they didn't fit so bulky, and this is due to the different lining. It seems like too many things are against achieving a decent fit for this wannabe peacoat."

This community helps to clarify doubts that one internally already recognizes

Yes, I had forgotten about the early 20th Century peacoats that were mid thigh in length.

You are right about the short overcoats they periodically produce in the name of fashion. An overcoat or raincoat really needs to cover the knees or it isn't useful in rain or snow. I had one years ago and wore it in the rain exactly one time. Never wore it again in the rain or snow.

 

[Jon Crow]

Yes, I had forgotten about the early 20th Century peacoats that were mid thigh in length.

You are right about the short overcoats they periodically produce in the name of fashion. An overcoat or raincoat really needs to cover the knees or it isn't useful in rain or snow. I had one years ago and wore it in the rain exactly one time. Never wore it again in the rain or snow.

Like a British Crombie, to the knees

 

[Oakbark]

Yes, I had forgotten about the early 20th Century peacoats that were mid thigh in length.

You are right about the short overcoats they periodically produce in the name of fashion. An overcoat or raincoat really needs to cover the knees or it isn't useful in rain or snow. I had one years ago and wore it in the rain exactly one time. Never wore it again in the rain or snow.

just out of curiosity: I suppose those cuts from 1910/30 aren't among your fav,
I'm asking because, as your nickname suggests, I've often come acrosss your comment here and in the other forum on the Peacoat theme, so I'd love to hear your opinion as a knowledgeable person about the longer and the shorter versions.
I wasn't looking for the long version, even if are civilian interpretations, but I always struggle to find pieces that fit my built, so this one ended up too long, which is still in line with those early 20th century ones you mentioned, but it's too bulky cause of the thinsulate lining while original peacots don't have to face these issues.

Regarding overcoats, there are good brands that use very fine wools for the shell and then they ruin everything by adding a padded lining, so instead the coat to drapes, it makes the wearer stuffed from the neck to the knees ( worse than the examples in my fit pics) cause I thought both the wool and the lining to be thinner, but they're actualy both quite thick

 

[Oakbark]

Like a British Crombie, to the knees

Exactly, those are overcoats to the knees: its proper name is the British Warm.
just to mention some other Overcoats that hit "around" the knees area: some lower:
Guard coat
Covert coat
Polo coat
Ulster coat
Chesterfield
Paletot
Balmacaan

And I'm not going to mention those related to the world of the Navy

 

[Jon Crow]

Exactly, those are overcoats to the knees: its proper name is the British Warm.
just to mention some other Overcoats that hit "around" the knees area: some lower:
Guard coat
Covert coat
Polo coat
Ulster coat
Chesterfield
Paletot
Balmacaan

And I'm not going to mention those related to the world of the Navy

I like the tweed Ulster coat

 

[Peacoat]

just out of curiosity: I suppose those cuts from 1910/30 aren't among your fav,
I'm asking because, as your nickname suggests, I've often come acrosss your comment here and in the other forum on the Peacoat theme, so I'd love to hear your opinion as a knowledgeable person about the longer and the shorter versions.
I wasn't looking for the long version, even if are civilian interpretations, but I always struggle to find pieces that fit my built, so this one ended up too long, which is still in line with those early 20th century ones you mentioned, but it's too bulky cause of the thinsulate lining while original peacots don't have to face these issues.

Regarding overcoats, there are good brands that use very fine wools for the shell and then they ruin everything by adding a padded lining, so instead the coat to drapes, it makes the wearer stuffed from the neck to the knees ( worse than the examples in my fit pics) cause I thought both the wool and the lining to be thinner, but they're actualy both quite thick

It's not that they aren't among my favorites, but that they were discontinued so long ago as to be no longer relevant to me. Sort of like a great uncle who died well before I was born, but who is still talked about amongst the relatives.

I have told this story before, but I had a chance to buy a 1930s peacoat on eBay once–probably 15 years ago. It had been the coat of the seller's grandfather. The weather was warm, and there were no bids on the coat, nor any interest. That coat was going for a quick song. And it was my size too–a size 42.

I told the seller what she had and advised her to withdraw the item from the auction. I also told her I would like to buy the coat for a fair price if she still wanted to sell it. I gave her my email address (this was back in the day when that was allowed), but I never heard from her. I'm sure by now she has sold it on to someone else. Several years ago, I looked for her email address without success.

What I should have done was to bid high on the coat to ensure my bid won and then paid her the difference between my bid and what I thought the coat was worth back then–about $300. But I didn't think to do that. I just lost out on the coat.

So, at this point, those peacoats are no longer relevant to me.

 

[BernieH]

I am 6'1 with a 48 chest. This is a picture of me with an Eastman G1 in size 48. Do I need to lose a few pounds around the waist to make this fit better? Thinking of asking for it to be lengthened by an inch too. Shoulders, chest and sleeves are fine, with plenty of movement. Any advice, even "get on a treadmill chubby" is greatly appreciated.

 

[thor]

That’s a nice looking jacket! Eastman are known for their high-quality products. Chest and sleeve length look fine; an extra inch in body length would be ideal, IMHO.

 

[El Marro]

It looks good and i’m not sure if I would want any extra length at all. That jacket looks like it is almost covering your front pockets as it is. Do you have a shot from the back?

 

[BernieH]

It looks good and i’m not sure if I would want any extra length at all. That jacket looks like it is almost covering your front pockets as it is. Do you have a shot from the back?

Yes, but not with it done up only with the zip undone, hence it looks really loose.