The Thread to Display Your 1930s Suits

Two Types · May 5, 2014

DamianM said:

Personally, I find that the pleats falling directly from the shoulders is less leasing on the eye than the jacket having a yoke.

Flat Foot Floey · May 5, 2014

No question it's a holy grail suit. With or without yoke you won't find something like this every day. The fishmouth lapels make me forget I prefer SB suits. It's mouth watering. *le sigh*

herringbonekid · May 5, 2014

nice suit (understatement).

Burma Schave · May 6, 2014

Baron
, your thoughts?

herringbonekid · May 6, 2014

Two Types said:
Personally, I find that the pleats falling directly from the shoulders is less (p)leasing on the eye than the jacket having a yoke.

how do you feel about it on the Pinkie Brighton Rock suit which has the same configuration ?
i like both yoke and non-yoke versions myself, though on this particular suit i'd rather it only had four of the small out-darts (of the type it has near the centre seam) instead of the shark gills.

Two Types · May 6, 2014

herringbonekid said:
how do you feel about it on the Pinkie Brighton Rock suit which has the same configuration ?

I look at both suits and think 'That's fantastic' and dream of finding such a suit - but not for me to wear. If I was commissioning a suit and decided it was going to have rear pleats (and I'm not convinced I would ever do so) I would certainly insist on a yoke. But nothing as attention grabbing as a scalloped yoke.

I understand the fascination with these styles and appreciate their rarity but it just isn't for me. My shoulders are big enough anyway - i'm not sure i should be drawing attention to them! Of course, if someone tells me those styles make the wearer look slimmer, I might change my mind.

Baron Kurtz · May 6, 2014

Burma Schave said:
Baron
, your thoughts?

Late to the party. Very nice indeed. I'm not a huge fan of belted/pleated backs (in fact I don't like them very much) but I think the front of this is pretty near the perfect DB.:eusa_clap

Burma Schave · May 8, 2014

Two Types · May 8, 2014

Which photos show the correct colour? I'm assuming they are the ones taken outside (showing the windowpane detail).

Baron Kurtz · May 8, 2014

Nice self check!

I just noticed on the trousers pix. Boy is that some lightweight fabric. You can see the pocketbags through it.

resortes805 · May 9, 2014

That subtle windowpane is icing on the cake!

herringbonekid · May 9, 2014

Baron Kurtz said:
I'm not a huge fan of belted/pleated backs (in fact I don't like them very much)

... and how many belt-backs does Mr. "i don't like belted/pleated backs" own ?

Baron Kurtz · May 9, 2014

Oh no you didn't! :hand:

Patrick Hall · May 14, 2014

Purchased this suit from houndstooth kid on Etsy several weeks ago. Arrived (as he warned it would) in less than ideal condition. A fair number of stains, and a generally unappealing yellow patina. After a six hour oxygen bleach bath, and a trip to the tailor for some mends, necessary alterations, and a good pressing, it's almost unrecognizable. The jacket is gloriously unconstructed, not even shoulder pads as near as I can tell. The fabric is cotton with a peculiar sheen to it. Not sure what that's about. Label (before being demolished by oxygen bleach) dated this suit to 1937.

Two Types · May 14, 2014

Wonderful.

herringbonekid · May 14, 2014

Patrick, are you sure that's not silk or a wool/linen blend ?
it doesn't look stiff and creasy enough for cotton.

Patrick Hall · May 14, 2014

herringbonekid said:
Patrick, are you sure that's not silk or a wool/linen blend ?
it doesn't look stiff and creasy enough for cotton.

Cotton was Houndstooth Kid's guess at the fabric. I am pretty sure it isn't silk. If I'm wrong, FL Gods forgive me for the bleach bath. Could well be a wool/linen blend, as I've never handled that kind of fabric, though it doesn't have any of the coarse, slubby nature I'd expect for linen. It's pretty creasy, though not stiff at all. It feels to me like cotton that has had something done to it - some kind of treatment to give it a sheen and change the feel of the fabric.

Here are a couple close up shots of the fabric:

herringbonekid · May 14, 2014

ok, not silk, but probably a Palm Beach type blend e.g cotton / mohair / rayon.

p.s. i have a similar jacket, also with a 'sheeny' cloth. it appears to be a Palm Beach competitor called...

Two Types · May 15, 2014

Or what about a cotton that's been treated - such as tebilised or sanforised? (aren't they both cotton treatments that leave it with a sheen? Or am I mis-remembering, due to having just got home from the pub?)

Patrick Hall · May 15, 2014

herringbonekid said:
i have a similar jacket, also with a 'sheeny' cloth.

EVERKOOL - such hip brand names. And with the Palm Tree logo to boot, in case you, the savvy buyer, hadn't already copped to the fact that they were competing with PB's patented fabric.

Two Types said:
Or what about a cotton that's been treated - such as tebilised or sanforised?

I considered putting this hypothesis forward as well. I looked up sanforisation on Wikipedia (of course), but could find no accounts of the process changing the look or feel of the fabric. Also like HBK's suggestion that there is rayon in the blend, if only because it means I've nabbed something slightly more exotic than a cotton suit!

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