Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

red devil said:

as @dudewuttheheck mentionned, there is a lot of variation.

If you are wondering about the general grade of the hide, they are both top end, if you are looking for something specific, then tell us what you want exactly.

All I can tell you is that whatever you go for with Thedi will be special, so I generally leave the choice of the hide to them, I only ask for the colour I want.

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Riu said:

I completely understand what you're saying. The Aero wouldn't be a replacement as I like Aero and I wanted one ever since I got that BR.

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torfjord said:

Get it! Then go for the Aero . I made the mistake in the past to go for a few jackets that were “second best” from what I wanted . I was never satisfied with them in the end.
On that note, you should pick up the highwayman I have in the classifieds

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JustinW said:

Years ago I had a shirt with a banded collar that I liked a lot, until my gf of the time told me that it didn’t suit me. Something about having a long neck and head shape. While I didn’t really take her opinions too seriously, it was enough to take the shine of that shirt. I hardly worse it after.

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Marc mndt said:

Yesterday I've spent an hour searching the internet for hangers that's have the optimal width, depth and slope. Eventually I've ordered these from Amazon.
View attachment 305154 View attachment 305153
https://www.amazon.nl/SONGMICS-kostuumhanger-kleerhanger-schouders-anti-slip/dp/B07PPHBL4W

@Harris HTM I've also looked into the ones that you suggested from bol.com. These hangers from Amazon are cheaper and it looks like they have an ever wider angle at 135 degrees. I'll let you know whether they're up to the job. Rated at max 5kg so weight shouldn't be an issue

@navetsea unfortunately I have too many jackets / not enough rail to use the hangers backwards. I'm already short on space.

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Cognoscente said:

Well, I read this whole thread today while I waiting for DHL to deliver my Real McCoys Nelson 30’s style jacket size 40. There was a knock at the door exactly when I finished and here it is! I got to say that y’all’s advice is spot on in the previous posts. I needed 22” pit to pit and that is how I sized this jacket for me. It fits like it was made for me! I’ll start another thread with a review with more pics and some pants other than my loungers. Give me a day tho, I’m going to bask in the glory of this baby for a bit.
Cheers!

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jglf said:

Looks good! What’s your chest size?

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ryvncvrp said:

Anyone know what year this N-1 Deck Jacket is from? Just found in my grandparents attic.

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ryvncvrp said:

Anyone know what year this N-1 Deck Jacket is from? Just found in my grandparents attic.

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MrProper said:

How do shoulder gussets actually work? In principle, the gussets are constructed like an accordion. When you stretch, the folds expand. But how do they come back and go back to their original form? Because rubber bands aren't built in there, right?

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handymike said:

Actually there are. Gussets and bi-swing usually have pieces of elastic sewn into the seams to pull it back into place.
View attachment 316859

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navetsea said:

I knew many use elastic there but elastic need replacement, i don't have elastic in mine , my gusset is like J shaped, the top is stitched with the shoulder so it will not get pulled out, the bottom is sagging downward and never get pulled out completely too, and I think the jacket must have some room on the back when you relaxed so it can retract unhindered by your body, use gravity too so design a gusset or full action back with vertical fold | | or / \ don't make slant fold against gravity like \ / even when it look more visually pleasing in concept it will never retract fully imo. just my amateur observation.

and these are just my ideas yet never tested:
1. how about installing a piping on the bottom seam of the gusset to act like a spring (there is a risk of ghosting)
2. how about making the gusset with a little bit of triangular/ conical shape in mind since the geometry is stable and naturally want to comeback to its original shape when one side is pulled out
3 how about making the gusset panels a fraction smaller than the jacket panel so there is more tension on the gusset than the rest of the jacket

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MrProper said:

Thank you for the clarification.
Until now I thought that only the bi-swing/action-backs had rubber straps and the shoulder gussets didn't.
But then of course it is clear how it works ;-)
I'm just not sure whether I'll still buy jackets with gussets in the future (two jackets with gussets currently in production) because I don't really want to replace an elastic band after a while.

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torfjord said:

I think you shouldn't have to need to worry about replacing the elastic band any more than worrying about replacing a liner. The elastic band should last as long as the liner

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