1920s and 1930s-style leather jackets

[himelator]

no I mean that without going to the 3rd world it is impossible to cost a jacket out at 500.- distressing is easy..rocks and a dryer and your done

 

[himelator]

new jackets

Since this thread started I have been working on my designs and getting sizing. Unfortunately my dad became sick and I had to put my Jacket project on hold till September. At that time I will be launching both a website for vintage leather, and my new designs. As well, I will be launching a new blog/magazine, and working on deals to carry exclusive lines created by my coconspirators globally who design amazing jackets, belts, bags and boots. I will let everybody know at the lounge when I am closer to launch. Hopefully things will go smoothly. I was in Japan in February picking up my new order of veg. tanned horse leather. I am buying the same leather as Real McCoys and Flathead. As well for now I am using my deadstock supplies of vintage zippers and buttons, and replicas from Japan. I hope you guys appreciate the designs. I will say this little hobby has cost me 100s of k in dollars. So lets hope that my work results in a few sales. I believe my products are more authentic in cut and design then anything on the market. Most of the designs are tailored for slim and medium builds...I have not broached the "husky" patterns as I dont have enough resources yet or experience to believe that I can make perfect sizing in that market. I will have introductory pricing once the site is up.

Best
David Himel

www.vintageleatherjackets.blogspot.com

 

[feltfan]

Most of the designs are tailored for slim and medium builds...I have not broached the "husky" patterns as I dont have enough resources yet or experience to believe that I can make perfect sizing in that market.

Boo, hiss.

 

[1087]

Since this thread started I have been working on my designs and getting sizing. Unfortunately my dad became sick and I had to put my Jacket project on hold till September. At that time I will be launching both a website for vintage leather, and my new designs. As well, I will be launching a new blog/magazine, and working on deals to carry exclusive lines created by my coconspirators globally who design amazing jackets, belts, bags and boots. I will let everybody know at the lounge when I am closer to launch. Hopefully things will go smoothly. I was in Japan in February picking up my new order of veg. tanned horse leather. I am buying the same leather as Real McCoys and Flathead. As well for now I am using my deadstock supplies of vintage zippers and buttons, and replicas from Japan. I hope you guys appreciate the designs. I will say this little hobby has cost me 100s of k in dollars. So lets hope that my work results in a few sales. I believe my products are more authentic in cut and design then anything on the market. Most of the designs are tailored for slim and medium builds...I have not broached the "husky" patterns as I dont have enough resources yet or experience to believe that I can make perfect sizing in that market. I will have introductory pricing once the site is up.

Best
David Himel

www.vintageleatherjackets.blogspot.com

I'm looking forward to see your jackets design.
Since yuo will use the same HHJ than the Real Mc Coys, I'm looking forward for your MC jackets if you will make any.
I seen one black-Brown D-Pocket that your belt maker Friend Katsu from Japan was wearing in your blog that looks quite interesting!

 

[PADDY]

David.

Hope things improve at home with your Dad. Good luck with the enterprise and look forward to things moving forwards in September.

Regards, Paddy.

 

[himelator]

Hope things improve at home with your Dad. Good luck with the enterprise and look forward to things moving forwards in September.

Regards, Paddy.

Unfortunately my dad died 1 week ago of pancreatic cancer. It took up all of my time and energy since March. Things are settling down and I will be moving on to honour him and his legacy.

dh

 

[jon z]

David

I'm sorry to hear your sad news & offer my condolences. I wish you every success with your vintage jacket range venture & look forward to seeing your offerings.
John

 

[himelator]

David

I'm sorry to hear your sad news & offer my condolences. I wish you every success with your vintage jacket range venture & look forward to seeing your offerings.
John

Thanks ...as in Jewish tradition I am in a 7 day rememberance period. I appreciate the condolences. Also to the person who started this thread I have no issue with anybody posting my images from the site because I think the only thing worse than being talked about badly is not being talked about at all! I listen to all opinions and ideas as informed people are my best resource. I certainly dont always know everything and I poke into conversations on the lounge all the time to get pics, ideas and even new information that I never knew. I have found many invaluable resources here on the lounge including the books on the history of the zipper, which I learned on the ground in vintage circles and through some archives, but had never seen a complete compendium. Anyway, my new project will hopefully contribute to the world in a better way. I am obssessed with details and design by my nature and my team consists of me and two others so hopefully my tiny team will make beautiful things. Currently I have the patterns done from size 36 to size 50, but these are tight cuts with little belly room. I will start making samples for my site in August and will launch a rough launch in September. I will also be selling off my first samples with a small discount..the jackets are perfect but I altered the patterns slightly since then to jazz up my designs and be "slightly" more authentic to the originals. The sewing and skiving is masterfull. I have spent literally hours on the phone with Chapman debating ancient sewing and manufacture techniques so that everything is perfect. Hopefully if there is some product out in the world this will bare out. My only sadness is lack of money to do more, faster and bigger!

 

[shortbow]

Deepest condolences Dave.

And, I think that first jacket in the op is absolutely smashing. Truly the best looking leather I've ever seen.

 

[feltfan]

Currently I have the patterns done from size 36 to size 50, but these are tight cuts with little belly room.
(...)
I have spent literally hours on the phone with Chapman debating ancient sewing and manufacture techniques so that everything is perfect.

Hope my "boo, hiss" weren't taken badly- didn't know your circumstances.
Sorry for your loss (went through a similar experience with my father).

Mr. Chapman may well have told you the trouble I caused him back when
he tried to do the Monarch civilian jacket. We gave up after his attempts
to extrapolate from his smaller original failed and went with an A-1. It's a
more forgiving (read: there are fewer known originals and they varied
enough to allow almost anything) style. I love the jacket and wear it
all the time, but it's still a bit odd in the way it drapes in the back, compared
to other A-1 repros and photos of originals. But oh, that capeskin he had...

Here's hoping you can budge a bit for the bulge and make a slightly
more modern pattern some day. There were, of course, "huskier" men
back in the day, too, and some jackets do survive.

Hang in there and looking forward to seeing the fruits of your labors.

 

[Vic]

I am very sorry for your loss, David.

Your work looks beautiful, and I look forward to seeing more.

 

[crimsonofsam]

Sorry about your dad and best of luck with the company.

 

[himelator]

Hope my "boo, hiss" weren't taken badly- didn't know your circumstances.
Sorry for your loss (went through a similar experience with my father).

Mr. Chapman may well have told you the trouble I caused him back when
he tried to do the Monarch civilian jacket. We gave up after his attempts
to extrapolate from his smaller original failed and went with an A-1. It's a
more forgiving (read: there are fewer known originals and they varied
enough to allow almost anything) style. I love the jacket and wear it
all the time, but it's still a bit odd in the way it drapes in the back, compared
to other A-1 repros and photos of originals. But oh, that capeskin he had...

Here's hoping you can budge a bit for the bulge and make a slightly
more modern pattern some day. There were, of course, "huskier" men
back in the day, too, and some jackets do survive.

Hang in there and looking forward to seeing the fruits of your labors.

Never taken badly....im not against the idea...but given my experience in fit issues to date...its something that takes time to work out through experience. I need to start with the standard sizing and work through the modifications. Unlike the 1930s and 40s where in house pattern making was available at all times..there are maybe 1 or 2 excellent patternmakers left here in Toronto. We do it ourselves as well but one should never underestimate the skill of someone who specializes in one thing. So I am trying to keep a very complex job a bit simple for now. Until we can roll a bit. Again thanks for the sentiments..I am amazed at the fraternity expressed here on the lounge. Chapman is a standup guy and loves his customers...we only speak of design and pattern and sewing techniques, leather and the like. I did notice that he has a new jacket listing on ebay this week, so maybe someone out there can avoid the line up and get one right away. John is as committed as anyone I have ever met to the craft...a real mensch and genius.

 

[1087]

To Himelator!

I offering my condolences for your Father passing!
I previously posted in this thread about your jackets!
Here is a copy of my post:

I'm looking forward to see your jackets design.
Since yuo will use the same HHJ than the Real Mc Coys, I'm looking forward for your MC jackets if you will make any.
I seen one black-Brown D-Pocket that your belt maker Friend Katsu from Japan was wearing in your blog that looks quite interesting!>>>


Now that Black and Brown jacket is available?
If so I would like to have more information about the HH thickness , jacket features, more pictures,etc,etc.
I'm riding motorcycles quite often, so it's important to me that information, besides the outstanding look that I can perceive in the jacket.
Thank you.

 

[himelator]

1930s Avro D pocket riders jacket

I offering my condolences for your Father passing!
I previously posted in this thread about your jackets!
Here is a copy of my post:

I'm looking forward to see your jackets design.
Since yuo will use the same HHJ than the Real Mc Coys, I'm looking forward for your MC jackets if you will make any.
I seen one black-Brown D-Pocket that your belt maker Friend Katsu from Japan was wearing in your blog that looks quite interesting!>>>


Now that Black and Brown jacket is available?
If so I would like to have more information about the HH thickness , jacket features, more pictures,etc,etc.
I'm riding motorcycles quite often, so it's important to me that information, besides the outstanding look that I can perceive in the jacket.
Thank you.

Hey...
that two tone jacket is my own design. It is based on an early leathertogs jacket that I own and an early Canadian shell back half belt motorcycle jacket. The leather is veg. tanned horsehide that is bark tanned for three months prior to finishing. The finish on that model comes either brown pigment, brown analine oil finish, black pigment, or black analine with oil finish. The leather is thick feeling and creaky if oil finished, if pigment finished there is more of a "broken in " feel. The thickness is 1.2. It is a bit of a misnomer to talk of thickness because the feel or hand of the leather and its weight is actually determined by the kind of finishing so oil tanned leathers tend to feel thicker because of the oils and dyestuffs added to the leather. The internal stitching is in fact coban for strength, the top stitching is cotton for authenticity. The zips on that jacket are authentic 1940s lightning pulls, however the prefered choice are replica 1930s zippers from waldes. The jacket is quite expensive and takes 2 full days to make. I will forward you more links if you like please email me at himelator@hotmail.com. Interesting note, 1930s style central back gussets, and the unique underarm gusset for good and free arm movement, and secret stash pocket on the wind flap. Also every single pocket has decorative pocket welts and the jacket is skived completely to make very very flat seams. I really think this jacket is a work of art.

www.vintageleatherjackets.blogspot.com

David Himel

 

[dit dah]

Of course it's all subjective but to me David's jackets are, to use the common parlance, "the bomb". I've been keeping a beady eye on your blog David and look forward to seeing more on your website. I am going to paste a picture of one of your jackets onto the steering wheel of the tractor I'm driving as a way to remember why I am working (to replace the council tax bill which is currently insitu).

I think that it offers something which is currently unavailable. For some time I've sought a small boxy jacket from this period but being queezy about the Luftwaffe thing (I know I know, let's not start all that again) I struggled to find anything. To me, the A2 is ok but looks better off than on, I don't like the collar or the way it sags at the pockets. Levis' stuff is OK but not worth the money. Anyway who cares 'cause now I have my dream jacket to, well, dream about!

These are clearly the result of knowledge, passion and craftmanship and it is the collision of these that bears so much of what is good. David I look forward to selling the bosses tractor and eloping in one of your jackets!

Iain